towing a trailer?
towing a trailer?
Does the 123 have frame horns going all the way to the rear sheet metal? Making use of those instead of just sandwiching the rear sheet metal would be strongest.
I really like what you've got. Might have to steal the idea for the wagon.
raysorenson
03-03-2015, 11:24 AM #51If you're just going to use it for bike racks and cargo trays, it's probably fine the way it is. If you're going to tow a trailer, more would be good.
Does the 123 have frame horns going all the way to the rear sheet metal? Making use of those instead of just sandwiching the rear sheet metal would be strongest.
I really like what you've got. Might have to steal the idea for the wagon.
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
03-03-2015, 12:52 PM #52Yeah it has a quasi frame in the back that terminates at the bumper mounts, and I plan on adding more bracing going forward and up under the car to that for more strength so I can pull trailers with it (thinking about turning the service box on my truck into a utility trailer and getting a regular pickup bed)
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
Going back to my diagram, just add some forward facing straps. Think about the forces/directions involved. You want to spread the weight out to all of the rear chassis.
1"x2" box (or 3"x1/4" flat) on the ends, bent or cut to be flush to the underbody. 3"x1/4" flat on the center, bolted up through the bottom of the spare well.
I used flats and had no trouble with heavy loads, just make sure the load is balanced and you drive slow/allow time for braking(blah blah blah stanard towing advice)
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
03-04-2015, 08:35 AM #53Looing good!
Going back to my diagram, just add some forward facing straps. Think about the forces/directions involved. You want to spread the weight out to all of the rear chassis.
1"x2" box (or 3"x1/4" flat) on the ends, bent or cut to be flush to the underbody. 3"x1/4" flat on the center, bolted up through the bottom of the spare well.
I used flats and had no trouble with heavy loads, just make sure the load is balanced and you drive slow/allow time for braking(blah blah blah stanard towing advice)
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
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