STD Tuning Engine Clocking a GT2256v

Clocking a GT2256v

Clocking a GT2256v

 
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DeliveryValve
Superturbo

1,338
05-25-2009, 03:34 PM #1
What is the procedure to clocking the Turbine Housing on the GT2256v. The used turbo that I've been fooling with seems like the housing is welded on to the cartridge. So is there a special way to take it apart and how do I clock it without damaging vanes during reassembly.

Pictures would be very helpful Big Grin

Thanks.

Gota love Mercedes Diesels!



.
DeliveryValve
05-25-2009, 03:34 PM #1

What is the procedure to clocking the Turbine Housing on the GT2256v. The used turbo that I've been fooling with seems like the housing is welded on to the cartridge. So is there a special way to take it apart and how do I clock it without damaging vanes during reassembly.

Pictures would be very helpful Big Grin

Thanks.


Gota love Mercedes Diesels!



.

ForcedInduction
Banned

3,628
05-25-2009, 10:57 PM #2
Get a brass hammer, lube the seam with PB (or whatever penetrating oil you use), let it soak for half an hour and then whack the turbine housing. Soak with PB, repeat.

Once the housing is off, you'll see something like this.
   

If the oil outlet angle is less than 30* off-vertical, you can run the turbo as-is.

I'm 99% sure you can just reclock that vane ring, grind off the alignment pin on the center cartridge.

I chose to remove the whole vane assy and redrill the mounting screw locations (the 3 torx head bolts in the vane base), sealing the old holes with set screws.

---

On the last two you will need to readjust the vane stop setscrew. This sets the minimum angle the vanes can close to. You need it to make no more than 8psi under 2000rpm, above that you can go nuts up to ~20psi. Below 2krpm the compressor will surge with more than 8psi and trying to spool it up that quickly will also restrict the exhaust flow.

This is the screw.
   

Remember to coat the housing seam with high-temperature anti-seize. Do not coat the vanes or the ring, they are designed to operate dry and coating them will collect soot.

Good luck! Big Grin
This post was last modified: 05-25-2009, 11:01 PM by ForcedInduction.
ForcedInduction
05-25-2009, 10:57 PM #2

Get a brass hammer, lube the seam with PB (or whatever penetrating oil you use), let it soak for half an hour and then whack the turbine housing. Soak with PB, repeat.

Once the housing is off, you'll see something like this.
   

If the oil outlet angle is less than 30* off-vertical, you can run the turbo as-is.

I'm 99% sure you can just reclock that vane ring, grind off the alignment pin on the center cartridge.

I chose to remove the whole vane assy and redrill the mounting screw locations (the 3 torx head bolts in the vane base), sealing the old holes with set screws.

---

On the last two you will need to readjust the vane stop setscrew. This sets the minimum angle the vanes can close to. You need it to make no more than 8psi under 2000rpm, above that you can go nuts up to ~20psi. Below 2krpm the compressor will surge with more than 8psi and trying to spool it up that quickly will also restrict the exhaust flow.

This is the screw.
   

Remember to coat the housing seam with high-temperature anti-seize. Do not coat the vanes or the ring, they are designed to operate dry and coating them will collect soot.

Good luck! Big Grin

winmutt
bitbanger

3,468
05-26-2009, 12:41 PM #3
Interesting I don't think the 2056 has that alignment pin.

1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
winmutt
05-26-2009, 12:41 PM #3

Interesting I don't think the 2056 has that alignment pin.


1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42

ForcedInduction
Banned

3,628
05-26-2009, 12:46 PM #4
The one I have does.
ForcedInduction
05-26-2009, 12:46 PM #4

The one I have does.

 
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