STD Tuning Engine W123 turbo diesel advice

W123 turbo diesel advice

W123 turbo diesel advice

 
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77Merc
Naturally-aspirated

2
08-06-2012, 11:00 AM #1
I've been reading and reading and a lot of numbers are swirling around in my head. I haven't found complete info on some of the swaps I'm entertaining.

I've got a W123 240D and want to swap it over to a turbo diesel. I would like a power plant that will make the car quick but I'm not racing it or anything. Just a nice reliable daily driver that can keep up with today's traffic and let me pass grandmas--without a going down hill with a tailwind.
I'll be getting a donor car. My 240D also needs a tranny and rearend so if I can get the donor car's tranny and rearend to fit, that's a bonus.

Fab skills are plenty. I'm no stranger to metal working and have a welder, plasma cutter, etc and have made cross members, suspension, roll cages, things like that.

I like that an OM617 would just about be a plug and play. I'd prefer to go that route if I can, but it's more important that I can get the type of performance I'm looking for.
I'm concerned about tweaking it to the hp range I think I need. From what I gather, it would take a lot of expensive mods to bump it past 140hp? Admittedly, I've never been in a w123 that wasn't a 240D so I don't know how well the turbo diesels perform. Perhaps getting to 140hp would suit, I'm not sure.

Of course, the OM606 would be badass. I've heard it's a bit of an electrical nightmare to swap into a W123 and there's an issue with clearing an intercooler. From the info I've found, I can't determine if this is an issue for someone who doesn't have fab skills or if there is simply a lack of space. Also, I'm not able to find concrete info on what tranny I'd need to run? Will the tranny from the donor car with an OM606 go into a W123?

And then there is the OM603 which, as I understand, has less electronics? I'm worried about the connecting rod issue and don't know how to tell if it's been resolved on a particular block.

Any kind of clarification/links/tips/advice is appreciated.
77Merc
08-06-2012, 11:00 AM #1

I've been reading and reading and a lot of numbers are swirling around in my head. I haven't found complete info on some of the swaps I'm entertaining.

I've got a W123 240D and want to swap it over to a turbo diesel. I would like a power plant that will make the car quick but I'm not racing it or anything. Just a nice reliable daily driver that can keep up with today's traffic and let me pass grandmas--without a going down hill with a tailwind.
I'll be getting a donor car. My 240D also needs a tranny and rearend so if I can get the donor car's tranny and rearend to fit, that's a bonus.

Fab skills are plenty. I'm no stranger to metal working and have a welder, plasma cutter, etc and have made cross members, suspension, roll cages, things like that.

I like that an OM617 would just about be a plug and play. I'd prefer to go that route if I can, but it's more important that I can get the type of performance I'm looking for.
I'm concerned about tweaking it to the hp range I think I need. From what I gather, it would take a lot of expensive mods to bump it past 140hp? Admittedly, I've never been in a w123 that wasn't a 240D so I don't know how well the turbo diesels perform. Perhaps getting to 140hp would suit, I'm not sure.

Of course, the OM606 would be badass. I've heard it's a bit of an electrical nightmare to swap into a W123 and there's an issue with clearing an intercooler. From the info I've found, I can't determine if this is an issue for someone who doesn't have fab skills or if there is simply a lack of space. Also, I'm not able to find concrete info on what tranny I'd need to run? Will the tranny from the donor car with an OM606 go into a W123?

And then there is the OM603 which, as I understand, has less electronics? I'm worried about the connecting rod issue and don't know how to tell if it's been resolved on a particular block.

Any kind of clarification/links/tips/advice is appreciated.

Simpler=Better
PORTED HEAD

2,127
08-06-2012, 12:53 PM #2
Go with the 617. You're going to be making roughly double the horsepower of the 616 and it's only a little bit heavier.

I had my 617 running at around 120hp (by guesstimating, I never dynoed it) and it was plenty quick, even if the auto transmission was failing. A 140hp 617 with a VNT will be MUCH peppier than a 616. You can mate the 617 to the 616's transmission, from everything I have read you definitely want to keep it a manual if you can. 5 speeds are rare and cost around $1000. From what you're saying about your fab skills, you shouldn't have any trouble putting a 617 with a variable vane into your 240. Plus, the 240 has manual climate controls/ windows and is a lighter chassis. Aluminum wheels, a straight exhaust, lighter SD parts, etc. will also make a noticeable difference in performance.

I don't know much about the 606, but I believe you can swap on a non electronic injection pump and you're good to go. The 606 has the starter on the driver's side, so you can't mix and match transmissions from a 616/617 or vice versa.
This post was last modified: 08-06-2012, 12:53 PM by Simpler=Better.

Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
08-06-2012, 12:53 PM #2

Go with the 617. You're going to be making roughly double the horsepower of the 616 and it's only a little bit heavier.

I had my 617 running at around 120hp (by guesstimating, I never dynoed it) and it was plenty quick, even if the auto transmission was failing. A 140hp 617 with a VNT will be MUCH peppier than a 616. You can mate the 617 to the 616's transmission, from everything I have read you definitely want to keep it a manual if you can. 5 speeds are rare and cost around $1000. From what you're saying about your fab skills, you shouldn't have any trouble putting a 617 with a variable vane into your 240. Plus, the 240 has manual climate controls/ windows and is a lighter chassis. Aluminum wheels, a straight exhaust, lighter SD parts, etc. will also make a noticeable difference in performance.

I don't know much about the 606, but I believe you can swap on a non electronic injection pump and you're good to go. The 606 has the starter on the driver's side, so you can't mix and match transmissions from a 616/617 or vice versa.


Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?

77Merc
Naturally-aspirated

2
08-07-2012, 09:38 AM #3
(08-06-2012, 12:53 PM)Simpler=Better Go with the 617. You're going to be making roughly double the horsepower of the 616 and it's only a little bit heavier.

I had my 617 running at around 120hp (by guesstimating, I never dynoed it) and it was plenty quick, even if the auto transmission was failing. A 140hp 617 with a VNT will be MUCH peppier than a 616. You can mate the 617 to the 616's transmission, from everything I have read you definitely want to keep it a manual if you can. 5 speeds are rare and cost around $1000. From what you're saying about your fab skills, you shouldn't have any trouble putting a 617 with a variable vane into your 240. Plus, the 240 has manual climate controls/ windows and is a lighter chassis. Aluminum wheels, a straight exhaust, lighter SD parts, etc. will also make a noticeable difference in performance.

I don't know much about the 606, but I believe you can swap on a non electronic injection pump and you're good to go. The 606 has the starter on the driver's side, so you can't mix and match transmissions from a 616/617 or vice versa.


Thanks!
What type of turbo has been the best? Something from a cummins maybe?

Now to find a donor car. There have been some iron grips on these W123s around here. Undecided Good thing I have a spare vehicle!
77Merc
08-07-2012, 09:38 AM #3

(08-06-2012, 12:53 PM)Simpler=Better Go with the 617. You're going to be making roughly double the horsepower of the 616 and it's only a little bit heavier.

I had my 617 running at around 120hp (by guesstimating, I never dynoed it) and it was plenty quick, even if the auto transmission was failing. A 140hp 617 with a VNT will be MUCH peppier than a 616. You can mate the 617 to the 616's transmission, from everything I have read you definitely want to keep it a manual if you can. 5 speeds are rare and cost around $1000. From what you're saying about your fab skills, you shouldn't have any trouble putting a 617 with a variable vane into your 240. Plus, the 240 has manual climate controls/ windows and is a lighter chassis. Aluminum wheels, a straight exhaust, lighter SD parts, etc. will also make a noticeable difference in performance.

I don't know much about the 606, but I believe you can swap on a non electronic injection pump and you're good to go. The 606 has the starter on the driver's side, so you can't mix and match transmissions from a 616/617 or vice versa.


Thanks!
What type of turbo has been the best? Something from a cummins maybe?

Now to find a donor car. There have been some iron grips on these W123s around here. Undecided Good thing I have a spare vehicle!

Simpler=Better
PORTED HEAD

2,127
08-07-2012, 10:16 AM #4
I ran a GT2056V from a Jiberty CRD. You can adapt a 2256V from a Sprinter, the 2256 is a better choice-it's slightly larger than the Jeep turbo.

Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
08-07-2012, 10:16 AM #4

I ran a GT2056V from a Jiberty CRD. You can adapt a 2256V from a Sprinter, the 2256 is a better choice-it's slightly larger than the Jeep turbo.


Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?

ronnie
GT2559V

179
08-08-2012, 05:28 PM #5
Look at this,

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/dies...616-a.html

This is my 240d. Right now I can outrun a stock 300.

here is another 240 with a lot of power,more then mine for sure.

http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/thread-2163.html
ronnie
08-08-2012, 05:28 PM #5

Look at this,

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/dies...616-a.html

This is my 240d. Right now I can outrun a stock 300.

here is another 240 with a lot of power,more then mine for sure.

http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/thread-2163.html

raysorenson
Superturbo

1,162
08-08-2012, 07:31 PM #6
The 603's are fun bone stock. The 3.0l 603 from the '87 w124 chassis is reliable, it's the 3.5l 603 with the bad rep. That said, the late 617 with very mild pump tweaks in my GF's (heavier than your car) wagon is pretty fun without the A/C on. Plus the 617 leaves open options for cheap 4 speed manual trans conversions.
raysorenson
08-08-2012, 07:31 PM #6

The 603's are fun bone stock. The 3.0l 603 from the '87 w124 chassis is reliable, it's the 3.5l 603 with the bad rep. That said, the late 617 with very mild pump tweaks in my GF's (heavier than your car) wagon is pretty fun without the A/C on. Plus the 617 leaves open options for cheap 4 speed manual trans conversions.

 
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