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Kozuka's W201 Project

Kozuka's W201 Project

 
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Kozuka
I'm_Badass

334
06-19-2012, 12:35 AM #1
So since I went down to storage today and ripped out my getrag transmission in preparation to put my 717.41X in along with the proper spacer pilot bearing and cap.

Guys! After getting my wagon going again, I'm eager to start going full on into the W201 project.

Lastest fixes,
SLS Deleted (SL500 Springs)
W124 V8 Front Swaybar 'Trimmed' to fit along with W124 V8 'hooks' hung backwards with alittle trimming so now the swaybar clears the engine's oil pan.

Current Issues,
Radiator: Going to explore the possibility of having new end tanks brazed onto my 2.6 radiator or mod an aftermarket one to fit since both the inlet and outlet are on the driver side for the M103/M104 external water pump.
Fuel System: Just Going to by-pass electric pumps and run strait to the engine by cutting the ends off the stock gas lines and flaring them abit.
Electrical: I've got main power hooked up, all the dash and interior powers up the ecu turns on and actuates the pump. The only things I need to do is wire up the glow relay & get the switched cranking wire to the starter.
Transmission: Well, since I opted for W124 mounts my engine is tucked back as far as it can go. The transmission is a very tight fit. W201 mounts may be better. I robbed my spacer and cap from my 16v engine so I have it all ready to go in. I have a stock brand new sachs clutch kit for a 2.6 that is installed should hold stock power. The linkages will have to be shortend. The driveshaft does fit but its pain the in ass how tight it is in their.

[Image: img0066wl.jpg]

Ill get my digital camera to take better pictures the iphone is not so great in the shade.
This post was last modified: 06-20-2012, 12:53 PM by Kozuka.

1983 300TD : 4 Speed : SLS Delete : More. Daily Deathcab
1987 190E/16v/OM603 : 5 Speed : SLS Delete : Lots More..W201 Project
Kozuka
06-19-2012, 12:35 AM #1

So since I went down to storage today and ripped out my getrag transmission in preparation to put my 717.41X in along with the proper spacer pilot bearing and cap.

Guys! After getting my wagon going again, I'm eager to start going full on into the W201 project.

Lastest fixes,
SLS Deleted (SL500 Springs)
W124 V8 Front Swaybar 'Trimmed' to fit along with W124 V8 'hooks' hung backwards with alittle trimming so now the swaybar clears the engine's oil pan.

Current Issues,
Radiator: Going to explore the possibility of having new end tanks brazed onto my 2.6 radiator or mod an aftermarket one to fit since both the inlet and outlet are on the driver side for the M103/M104 external water pump.
Fuel System: Just Going to by-pass electric pumps and run strait to the engine by cutting the ends off the stock gas lines and flaring them abit.
Electrical: I've got main power hooked up, all the dash and interior powers up the ecu turns on and actuates the pump. The only things I need to do is wire up the glow relay & get the switched cranking wire to the starter.
Transmission: Well, since I opted for W124 mounts my engine is tucked back as far as it can go. The transmission is a very tight fit. W201 mounts may be better. I robbed my spacer and cap from my 16v engine so I have it all ready to go in. I have a stock brand new sachs clutch kit for a 2.6 that is installed should hold stock power. The linkages will have to be shortend. The driveshaft does fit but its pain the in ass how tight it is in their.

[Image: img0066wl.jpg]

Ill get my digital camera to take better pictures the iphone is not so great in the shade.


1983 300TD : 4 Speed : SLS Delete : More. Daily Deathcab
1987 190E/16v/OM603 : 5 Speed : SLS Delete : Lots More..W201 Project

2996
K26-2

45
06-19-2012, 01:49 PM #2
Nice project, and glad to see you are working on it again. Why not just use the stock fuel pumps, it may be easier overall for you?

You could always swap the motor mount arms for the 190E versions which should make life easier for you also.
2996
06-19-2012, 01:49 PM #2

Nice project, and glad to see you are working on it again. Why not just use the stock fuel pumps, it may be easier overall for you?

You could always swap the motor mount arms for the 190E versions which should make life easier for you also.

Kozuka
I'm_Badass

334
06-19-2012, 04:16 PM #3
On the fuel pumps, there was some concern as too how long the dual CIS pump's would last with diesel fuel. The current projects goal is to run so I can test drive the car since I have never driven it and don't know what other issues it has it has a salvaged title but there is no play in the front wheels and the diff does LSD lock so I can't see where it could be wrong the bushings are all dry-rotted though so this will probably be a very slow build with lots of tinkering but I want it to be registered so I can drive and move it around as needed right now it just kinda sucks.

Yeah, I really want some 2.6 mounts. I would probably have a hell of a time getting my engine hoist in the storage unit to lift the engine though. I was considering using some 2x4's and jacks to replace the engine mount brackets but because of the shift in position probably would be near impossible and dangerous.
This post was last modified: 06-19-2012, 04:27 PM by Kozuka.

1983 300TD : 4 Speed : SLS Delete : More. Daily Deathcab
1987 190E/16v/OM603 : 5 Speed : SLS Delete : Lots More..W201 Project
Kozuka
06-19-2012, 04:16 PM #3

On the fuel pumps, there was some concern as too how long the dual CIS pump's would last with diesel fuel. The current projects goal is to run so I can test drive the car since I have never driven it and don't know what other issues it has it has a salvaged title but there is no play in the front wheels and the diff does LSD lock so I can't see where it could be wrong the bushings are all dry-rotted though so this will probably be a very slow build with lots of tinkering but I want it to be registered so I can drive and move it around as needed right now it just kinda sucks.

Yeah, I really want some 2.6 mounts. I would probably have a hell of a time getting my engine hoist in the storage unit to lift the engine though. I was considering using some 2x4's and jacks to replace the engine mount brackets but because of the shift in position probably would be near impossible and dangerous.


1983 300TD : 4 Speed : SLS Delete : More. Daily Deathcab
1987 190E/16v/OM603 : 5 Speed : SLS Delete : Lots More..W201 Project

Kozuka
I'm_Badass

334
06-20-2012, 10:07 AM #4
Take a look at this pic of a 2.5 NA engine bay.

[Image: 43542d1177333423-1986-190d-2-5-n-190d12.jpg]

Here's the turbo.

[Image: 2db21ab9.jpg]

As you can see the radiators are different between NA & Turbo. NA is like a M102/OM601 mounting behind the core support while the turbo mounts inside of the core support.

The stock 2.6/2.5TD radiator is 21.25"x17.75"x1"

I was thinking of modding a AFCO radiator to fit thats 20"x23.5"x3"

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AFC-80127N/

With a radiator that mounts behind the core support their is an issue with the power steering pump pulley/radiator interference even problems getting the hoses around the obnoxiously huge pulley with the 2.6 rad top hose. I don't know if it's because I'm using a 16v hood but the clearance is close between the hood pad and om603 valve cover. Its even worse with the stock intake crossover pipe installed.

1983 300TD : 4 Speed : SLS Delete : More. Daily Deathcab
1987 190E/16v/OM603 : 5 Speed : SLS Delete : Lots More..W201 Project
Kozuka
06-20-2012, 10:07 AM #4

Take a look at this pic of a 2.5 NA engine bay.

[Image: 43542d1177333423-1986-190d-2-5-n-190d12.jpg]

Here's the turbo.

[Image: 2db21ab9.jpg]

As you can see the radiators are different between NA & Turbo. NA is like a M102/OM601 mounting behind the core support while the turbo mounts inside of the core support.

The stock 2.6/2.5TD radiator is 21.25"x17.75"x1"

I was thinking of modding a AFCO radiator to fit thats 20"x23.5"x3"

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AFC-80127N/

With a radiator that mounts behind the core support their is an issue with the power steering pump pulley/radiator interference even problems getting the hoses around the obnoxiously huge pulley with the 2.6 rad top hose. I don't know if it's because I'm using a 16v hood but the clearance is close between the hood pad and om603 valve cover. Its even worse with the stock intake crossover pipe installed.


1983 300TD : 4 Speed : SLS Delete : More. Daily Deathcab
1987 190E/16v/OM603 : 5 Speed : SLS Delete : Lots More..W201 Project

Kozuka
I'm_Badass

334
06-22-2012, 03:28 PM #5
So yesterday I went to storage, put in my spacer/bearing/cap, put the clutch back together, made sure that the pilot slid on the end of the input shaft easily cleaned the surface the a scotch-brite pad. Took some pictures.

[Image: p6210132.jpg]

Moral of this picture, is to..

A: Don't ever be in a rush to throw and drivetrain together to move your car because you have to clear out of the current spot in a 'hurry'.

B: Always, Always, Always make sure the pilot bearing just 'slides' on the end of the input shaft on your transmission because you want it all to go together smoothly.

C: Don't Ever Force It, however tempting it may be if its not going take it apart and find out why. Should just slide smoothly in is you can't force it in by hand something is wrong.

My New Gearbox..

[Image: p6210137.jpg]

I measured the actual size of the radiator gap for custom radiator options. It's 19" Height x 27-1/2" Width x 2" Thick

So I think I'm going to go with a radiator thats 19"x26"x2-1/4"
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GRI-1-45222-X/

Tomorrow, I'm going to probably stick the transmission in start & hooking up everything.

1983 300TD : 4 Speed : SLS Delete : More. Daily Deathcab
1987 190E/16v/OM603 : 5 Speed : SLS Delete : Lots More..W201 Project
Kozuka
06-22-2012, 03:28 PM #5

So yesterday I went to storage, put in my spacer/bearing/cap, put the clutch back together, made sure that the pilot slid on the end of the input shaft easily cleaned the surface the a scotch-brite pad. Took some pictures.

[Image: p6210132.jpg]

Moral of this picture, is to..

A: Don't ever be in a rush to throw and drivetrain together to move your car because you have to clear out of the current spot in a 'hurry'.

B: Always, Always, Always make sure the pilot bearing just 'slides' on the end of the input shaft on your transmission because you want it all to go together smoothly.

C: Don't Ever Force It, however tempting it may be if its not going take it apart and find out why. Should just slide smoothly in is you can't force it in by hand something is wrong.

My New Gearbox..

[Image: p6210137.jpg]

I measured the actual size of the radiator gap for custom radiator options. It's 19" Height x 27-1/2" Width x 2" Thick

So I think I'm going to go with a radiator thats 19"x26"x2-1/4"
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GRI-1-45222-X/

Tomorrow, I'm going to probably stick the transmission in start & hooking up everything.


1983 300TD : 4 Speed : SLS Delete : More. Daily Deathcab
1987 190E/16v/OM603 : 5 Speed : SLS Delete : Lots More..W201 Project

 
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