om617 Turbo quick n' dirty rebuild
om617 Turbo quick n' dirty rebuild
06-04-2012, 08:24 PM
#1
This post was last modified: 06-04-2012, 08:24 PM by Solarcrete.
Solarcrete
06-04-2012, 08:24 PM #1I'm going to try to do a quick n' dirty rebuild on my 82 300d turbo. Basically just the rings, rod bearings, and valve stem seals. I've done a few engine in car ring jobs on other vehicles (65 rambler, 85 toyota 22r) Has anyone tried this? Is this possible with the Mercedes om617 turbo?
06-04-2012, 09:11 PM
#3
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Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
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DeliveryValve
06-04-2012, 09:11 PM #3My experience is the upper shell of the rod bearing set gets the most wear on these motors including the main bearings. So just replacing the rods bearings would save money. But then again, perhaps flipping the set around would save even more money.
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Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
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06-04-2012, 09:48 PM
#4
Dirty Little Freaks Racing
Racing diesel before diesel was cool!
Why not replace the guides too? We need a similar rebuild with the race car, just haven't cracked it open yet to see exactly what needs fixing first. We need cheap, quick(ish), and to fix the exhaust valve issue, looking forward to what everyone has to say.
Dirty Little Freaks Racing
Racing diesel before diesel was cool!
06-08-2012, 03:21 AM
#5
(06-04-2012, 08:24 PM)Solarcrete I'm going to try to do a quick n' dirty rebuild on my 82 300d turbo. Basically just the rings, rod bearings, and valve stem seals. I've done a few engine in car ring jobs on other vehicles (65 rambler, 85 toyota 22r) Has anyone tried this? Is this possible with the Mercedes om617 turbo?
Problem you'll find is removing the oil-pan and the upper ally cast pan with the engine in the chassis...
--Head and top end isnt a problem.
Guess you can raise the motor, but don't know if it can be made high enough to enable the complete removal of the cast ally part...My guess is not, unless you first pull the engine from the box--but if you're going That far, might as well pull the whole thing out....
---the cast ally upper pan is sorta 'U' shaped, the front X member sitting in the middle of the 'U'
![[Image: 300TDnoplate.jpg]](http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z128/alastairhcii/300TDnoplate.jpg)
Alastair E
06-08-2012, 03:21 AM #5(06-04-2012, 08:24 PM)Solarcrete I'm going to try to do a quick n' dirty rebuild on my 82 300d turbo. Basically just the rings, rod bearings, and valve stem seals. I've done a few engine in car ring jobs on other vehicles (65 rambler, 85 toyota 22r) Has anyone tried this? Is this possible with the Mercedes om617 turbo?
Problem you'll find is removing the oil-pan and the upper ally cast pan with the engine in the chassis...
--Head and top end isnt a problem.
Guess you can raise the motor, but don't know if it can be made high enough to enable the complete removal of the cast ally part...My guess is not, unless you first pull the engine from the box--but if you're going That far, might as well pull the whole thing out....
---the cast ally upper pan is sorta 'U' shaped, the front X member sitting in the middle of the 'U'
06-12-2012, 08:23 AM
#6
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
06-12-2012, 08:23 AM #6Pulling the engine isn't too terrible if the fan & radiator are out first.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
06-13-2012, 09:25 PM
#7
(06-12-2012, 08:23 AM)Simpler=Better Pulling the engine isn't too terrible if the fan & radiator are out first.
As long as you have a good rope and a sturdy tree right?
I think I may doing something like that when it comes time to start swapping engines
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
06-13-2012, 09:25 PM #7(06-12-2012, 08:23 AM)Simpler=Better Pulling the engine isn't too terrible if the fan & radiator are out first.
As long as you have a good rope and a sturdy tree right?
I think I may doing something like that when it comes time to start swapping engines
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
06-14-2012, 07:57 AM
#8
![[Image: 969-9099.jpg]](http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/900/969/969-9099.jpg)
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
06-14-2012, 07:57 AM #8These are PRICELESS when you're installing a motor:
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
06-15-2012, 04:10 PM
#9
(06-14-2012, 07:57 AM)Simpler=Better These are PRICELESS when you're installing a motor:
Does Harbor Freight carry them?
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
06-15-2012, 04:10 PM #9(06-14-2012, 07:57 AM)Simpler=Better These are PRICELESS when you're installing a motor:
Does Harbor Freight carry them?
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
06-18-2012, 01:51 AM
#12
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
06-18-2012, 01:51 AM #12The one I have is harbor freight.
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
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