OM616 excessive oil consumption
OM616 excessive oil consumption
I however think it is more likely somehow related to the rings, since the car also has some super blowby, like almost enough to send your hat sailing lol. Okay maybe not that much but it is also pretty excessive.
Any other thoughts/suggestions on the problem? If worse comes to worst I have a 240D parts car with about 127k fewer miles on it that I could swap engines with.
ALSO!!! Can anybody tell me what the oil pressure should be while the engine is under load/driving?? I thought I remembered reading in one of my Mercedes manuals or online or something that it should be somewhere near the top of the gauge, but he thinks otherwise
Thanks!!!
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
04-20-2012, 11:20 PM #1SO my dad's '83 240D he just bought has some super excessive oil consumption, in the area of more than a gallon of oil consumed over 300 miles of driving. He has ordered new valve seals since he thinks the problem is related to them leaking oil into the cylinders.
I however think it is more likely somehow related to the rings, since the car also has some super blowby, like almost enough to send your hat sailing lol. Okay maybe not that much but it is also pretty excessive.
Any other thoughts/suggestions on the problem? If worse comes to worst I have a 240D parts car with about 127k fewer miles on it that I could swap engines with.
ALSO!!! Can anybody tell me what the oil pressure should be while the engine is under load/driving?? I thought I remembered reading in one of my Mercedes manuals or online or something that it should be somewhere near the top of the gauge, but he thinks otherwise
Thanks!!!
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
if it don’t blow black...take it back.
1982 300TDT 4 Speed 196K Standard Beige “VEGEWGN”. 300GD FW. Walbro FRC-8 Fuel Pump. ZadaTech LCD Boost, EGT, & Fuel Pressure gauge. Non-EGR Exhaust and Intake Manifold. 3/2 Valves gone. Soon to have Elsbett WVO conversion
1981 300D 314K Midnight Blue “The Blue Car”, Lovecrap system, owned 25 years+
1985 300TD White 198K “Betty White” Pure beauty
The VEGEWGN
Oil pressure should be pinned while driving...also the lack there of could be related to the excessive oil consumption. Are you losing the oil to the road? A bad check valve on the oil return hardline is something common.
if it don’t blow black...take it back.
1982 300TDT 4 Speed 196K Standard Beige “VEGEWGN”. 300GD FW. Walbro FRC-8 Fuel Pump. ZadaTech LCD Boost, EGT, & Fuel Pressure gauge. Non-EGR Exhaust and Intake Manifold. 3/2 Valves gone. Soon to have Elsbett WVO conversion
1981 300D 314K Midnight Blue “The Blue Car”, Lovecrap system, owned 25 years+
1985 300TD White 198K “Betty White” Pure beauty
The VEGEWGN
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
04-21-2012, 12:36 AM #3Well, whenever I've driven behind him his car has been extremely smokey, so I'm gonna venture a guess and say that it is burning a lot. Also, there are no apparent leaks anywhere, and no spots on the driveway where the car is usually parked. Where is this check valve you speak of?
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
With a little google action you can find anything.
Oil Seperator valve
if it don’t blow black...take it back.
1982 300TDT 4 Speed 196K Standard Beige “VEGEWGN”. 300GD FW. Walbro FRC-8 Fuel Pump. ZadaTech LCD Boost, EGT, & Fuel Pressure gauge. Non-EGR Exhaust and Intake Manifold. 3/2 Valves gone. Soon to have Elsbett WVO conversion
1981 300D 314K Midnight Blue “The Blue Car”, Lovecrap system, owned 25 years+
1985 300TD White 198K “Betty White” Pure beauty
The VEGEWGN
Well if you say it is not leaking much, than my theory is nullified.
With a little google action you can find anything.
Oil Seperator valve
if it don’t blow black...take it back.
1982 300TDT 4 Speed 196K Standard Beige “VEGEWGN”. 300GD FW. Walbro FRC-8 Fuel Pump. ZadaTech LCD Boost, EGT, & Fuel Pressure gauge. Non-EGR Exhaust and Intake Manifold. 3/2 Valves gone. Soon to have Elsbett WVO conversion
1981 300D 314K Midnight Blue “The Blue Car”, Lovecrap system, owned 25 years+
1985 300TD White 198K “Betty White” Pure beauty
The VEGEWGN
If you try valve seals try not to drop the valves into the cylinders....... compressed air will keep them up, or make sure each piston is at top dead center.
more then likely rings. Did valve seals on mine just hoping, because it is easy, but no better. So rebuilt it, and added a turbo.
If you try valve seals try not to drop the valves into the cylinders....... compressed air will keep them up, or make sure each piston is at top dead center.
And then rebuild the bad engine with turbo pistons, rods, and sodium filled valves (if I can get them all, of course). If its possible I'll try to find a way to get the piston oil squirters in there as well. All of this would be to make it a true 240 turbo of course
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
04-24-2012, 06:23 PM #6Yeah I plan on making sure the cylinders are at tdc when changing the seals. I also think it is ring related, and if it turns out to be then I'll swap the lower mileage engine from the parts car in, for now
And then rebuild the bad engine with turbo pistons, rods, and sodium filled valves (if I can get them all, of course). If its possible I'll try to find a way to get the piston oil squirters in there as well. All of this would be to make it a true 240 turbo of course
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
I think?
300D50
maybe I am imagining this or mistaking something. You'd need to tap the block and plumb them into some pressurized oil I guess.
I got 5 of them if you ever want
But you'll prolly get them the same place as your valves and rods.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
There was some member here a while ago said he was making a jig to help fit sqirters to na blocks.
I think?
300D50
maybe I am imagining this or mistaking something. You'd need to tap the block and plumb them into some pressurized oil I guess.
I got 5 of them if you ever want But you'll prolly get them the same place as your valves and rods.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
04-25-2012, 04:18 PM #8Yeah this project is going to be a while off into the future, at the rate I've been getting my projects done lately probably like a year or so at least, unless I get another job sometime soon so I have spending money again lol. For now I have two pending projects for my car, so my dad's can wait since I'm the go-to Mercedes mechanic now
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
I kept the short block stock, and did all my mods on the head including sodium filled valves for my turbo conversion. Think as long as you don't beat on it all the time it should be just fine without the turbo pistons, etc.
I have the remains of a 617 turbo, you could take the pistons, squirters, rods etc out of. That' s what I got it for, but found a rebuilt short block 616, so never used it. Of course new pistons would be nice.
I kept the short block stock, and did all my mods on the head including sodium filled valves for my turbo conversion. Think as long as you don't beat on it all the time it should be just fine without the turbo pistons, etc.
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
04-25-2012, 06:05 PM #10But turbo pistons and rods would be awesome, its just that much more abuse the engine could handle. Not that it would be getting abused, just heavily used lol
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
So I have a couple thoughts about this. The first is the length of time or distance has something to do with the consumption, and the second is that the high rpm's on the freeway have something to do with it.
I have to think about this some more, maybe I'll try to devise some way to test these theories, but for now I need to go pull some steaks off the grill
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
05-27-2012, 10:48 PM #11An update on the car, it seems to only consume oil when driven more than 10 or 12 miles at a time. He drove the car about 10 miles to and fro from work and it didn't have any oil consumption issues. However, when he took it about 20 miles one way the other day, by the time he got home the oil was just touching the bottom of the "low" oil mark on the dipstick.
So I have a couple thoughts about this. The first is the length of time or distance has something to do with the consumption, and the second is that the high rpm's on the freeway have something to do with it.
I have to think about this some more, maybe I'll try to devise some way to test these theories, but for now I need to go pull some steaks off the grill
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
(05-28-2012, 05:48 PM)ronnie speed, tell him to slow down......
So through trial and error we have come to conclusion that speed is a contributing factor, but it still mostly burns oil if you drive it for more than like 15 minutes or so
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
06-09-2012, 11:41 PM #13(05-28-2012, 05:48 PM)ronnie speed, tell him to slow down......
So through trial and error we have come to conclusion that speed is a contributing factor, but it still mostly burns oil if you drive it for more than like 15 minutes or so
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
06-15-2012, 12:03 AM #15I might be interested in those 617 turbo remains in the coming weeks, talking to the father unit about getting an engine hoist, or at least a block and tackle to pull an engine out with the help of a sturdy tree of course! lol
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
06-15-2012, 08:33 AM #16If you're going full on race crazy it would be great to get some billet rods made up, along with an MLS headgasket and ARP studs...then you could run like 35#
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(06-15-2012, 08:33 AM)Simpler=Better If you're going full on race crazy it would be great to get some billet rods made up, along with an MLS headgasket and ARP studs...then you could run like 35#
Haha I don't think we're gonna go that crazy with it, I just want to be able to run it like 617, and maybe use it for occasional towing and stuff like that. I just figure if the engine is gonna have to get rebuilt because it has bad rings or something, I might as well just put turbo parts in there while its all apart, and then add a turbo sometime later
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
06-15-2012, 04:08 PM #17(06-15-2012, 08:33 AM)Simpler=Better If you're going full on race crazy it would be great to get some billet rods made up, along with an MLS headgasket and ARP studs...then you could run like 35#
Haha I don't think we're gonna go that crazy with it, I just want to be able to run it like 617, and maybe use it for occasional towing and stuff like that. I just figure if the engine is gonna have to get rebuilt because it has bad rings or something, I might as well just put turbo parts in there while its all apart, and then add a turbo sometime later
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
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