my engine wont shutdown, even with manual stop lever
my engine wont shutdown, even with manual stop lever
02-08-2012, 01:18 PM
#1
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/
anyway, after doind a few wiring odds and ends behind the dash, I reinstalled it and verified all electrical items working properly.
The next morning, when running errands, I turned the key off and it didn't whut down...okay, probably just loose vac lines running to s/d solenoid...nope, checked those and everything looks good, no holes, noises, still attached to switch and s/d sol...
then I aligned the vacuum straight from the main hose (going to brake booster, bypassing IGN switch) and still doesnt shutoff... so then I figured Id mess with it later and pushed the shutdown lever... sputters a bit, idles lower, but still running...
I've been stalling it in gear to shut her down for the past week or so and finally have a little time to dig into it a bit and was wondering if you guys had any input as to what could be wrong...
I'm thinking that it's some weird binding internal to the IP, but its really weird that it happened suddenly after I had the dash off. I can't think of anything electrical that would cause this, can you?!?!?
The engine has about 325K and I'm guessing that the s/d vac solenoid has about 35-40K on it. Any help/ideas are greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Josh
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
SurfRodder
02-08-2012, 01:18 PM #1posted over on PP as well:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/
anyway, after doind a few wiring odds and ends behind the dash, I reinstalled it and verified all electrical items working properly.
The next morning, when running errands, I turned the key off and it didn't whut down...okay, probably just loose vac lines running to s/d solenoid...nope, checked those and everything looks good, no holes, noises, still attached to switch and s/d sol...
then I aligned the vacuum straight from the main hose (going to brake booster, bypassing IGN switch) and still doesnt shutoff... so then I figured Id mess with it later and pushed the shutdown lever... sputters a bit, idles lower, but still running...
I've been stalling it in gear to shut her down for the past week or so and finally have a little time to dig into it a bit and was wondering if you guys had any input as to what could be wrong...
I'm thinking that it's some weird binding internal to the IP, but its really weird that it happened suddenly after I had the dash off. I can't think of anything electrical that would cause this, can you?!?!?
The engine has about 325K and I'm guessing that the s/d vac solenoid has about 35-40K on it. Any help/ideas are greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Josh
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
02-08-2012, 02:41 PM
#2
No. 3 on this picture
http://mb.bolinko.org/15/warsztat/silnik...0484-1.jpg
setting the linkage
http://mb.bolinko.org/15/warsztat-mainme...nkage.html
Gruß
Volker
When i had this problem my outer idle speed stop damper was turned in too much. So the linkage couldn´t reach its stop position.
No. 3 on this picture
http://mb.bolinko.org/15/warsztat/silnik...0484-1.jpg
setting the linkage
http://mb.bolinko.org/15/warsztat-mainme...nkage.html
Gruß
Volker
02-08-2012, 04:11 PM
#3
(02-08-2012, 02:41 PM)Volker407 When i had this problem my outer idle speed stop damper was turned in too much.
When I mess with it tomorrow Ill check that out, though I don't know how that could all of a sudden go out of adjustment, unless the lock nut (IIRC that is fixed in place with a nut) came loose and it worked itself out... If I had the time, I'd finish up my turbo upgrade and install/time the MW pump I have had for a while that is freshly rebuilt with some of Tomnik's larger elements...may end up doing that next weekend anyway if I get caught up on some Inorganic Chemistry reading.
Anyway, thanks a ton for the suggestion. I should probably get another one of those damper bolts anyway as I think that one has been on there a while (I've never replaced it so who knows how long it's been there).
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
SurfRodder
02-08-2012, 04:11 PM #3(02-08-2012, 02:41 PM)Volker407 When i had this problem my outer idle speed stop damper was turned in too much.
When I mess with it tomorrow Ill check that out, though I don't know how that could all of a sudden go out of adjustment, unless the lock nut (IIRC that is fixed in place with a nut) came loose and it worked itself out... If I had the time, I'd finish up my turbo upgrade and install/time the MW pump I have had for a while that is freshly rebuilt with some of Tomnik's larger elements...may end up doing that next weekend anyway if I get caught up on some Inorganic Chemistry reading.
Anyway, thanks a ton for the suggestion. I should probably get another one of those damper bolts anyway as I think that one has been on there a while (I've never replaced it so who knows how long it's been there).
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
02-08-2012, 07:57 PM
#4
BTW- I still have that manifold for you for your turbo project. I'll be down in few weeks and can drop it off to your parents.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
02-08-2012, 07:57 PM #4Volker's suggestion is plausible. I'm not sure how it would get out of adjustment also. Anyrate I had a similar situation on another 617 and that seemed to fix it.
BTW- I still have that manifold for you for your turbo project. I'll be down in few weeks and can drop it off to your parents.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
02-09-2012, 12:06 PM
#5
(02-08-2012, 07:57 PM)DeliveryValve Volker's suggestion is plausible. I'm not sure how it would get out of adjustment also. Anyrate I had a similar situation on another 617 and that seemed to fix it.
Yeah, I hope to be able to check that today...crossing my fingers.
(02-08-2012, 07:57 PM)DeliveryValve BTW- I still have that manifold for you for your turbo project. I'll be down in few weeks and can drop it off to your parents.
cool man, I think I may be needing it in the next few weeks/months... incidentally, I will be up there this weekend to work on installing some King coilovers on another Jeep XJ that a friend of mine is giving me to get outta his driveway... hopefully once that chassis is ready I can drop my 4.9L stroker into it and have another daily driver so I can take to 300 off the road for more than a weekend and get some other projects completed...maybe even that ported head finished and installed and/or ABS install done. Either way, I think the turbo and IP are next... not sure if that IP can be turned down enough to run decent on the stock turbo, otherwise I'd just install it now and be done with it.
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
SurfRodder
02-09-2012, 12:06 PM #5(02-08-2012, 07:57 PM)DeliveryValve Volker's suggestion is plausible. I'm not sure how it would get out of adjustment also. Anyrate I had a similar situation on another 617 and that seemed to fix it.
Yeah, I hope to be able to check that today...crossing my fingers.
(02-08-2012, 07:57 PM)DeliveryValve BTW- I still have that manifold for you for your turbo project. I'll be down in few weeks and can drop it off to your parents.
cool man, I think I may be needing it in the next few weeks/months... incidentally, I will be up there this weekend to work on installing some King coilovers on another Jeep XJ that a friend of mine is giving me to get outta his driveway... hopefully once that chassis is ready I can drop my 4.9L stroker into it and have another daily driver so I can take to 300 off the road for more than a weekend and get some other projects completed...maybe even that ported head finished and installed and/or ABS install done. Either way, I think the turbo and IP are next... not sure if that IP can be turned down enough to run decent on the stock turbo, otherwise I'd just install it now and be done with it.
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
02-09-2012, 01:08 PM
#6
(02-09-2012, 12:06 PM)SurfRodder ...... not sure if that IP can be turned down enough to run decent on the stock turbo, otherwise I'd just install it now and be done with it.
kmaser is also waiting for an upgrade on the turbo, but ended up installing his IP using the stock turbo. He told me power is great for under 3,000 rpms but then decreases above that. He thinks it would be great for a street car, but not so much for a tall geared off road vehicle that easily runs way over 3,000 rpms on the road. The upgraded turbo should fix the situation.
With that information I think you just install it for now without the turbo upgrade and see where you are at.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
02-09-2012, 01:08 PM #6(02-09-2012, 12:06 PM)SurfRodder ...... not sure if that IP can be turned down enough to run decent on the stock turbo, otherwise I'd just install it now and be done with it.
kmaser is also waiting for an upgrade on the turbo, but ended up installing his IP using the stock turbo. He told me power is great for under 3,000 rpms but then decreases above that. He thinks it would be great for a street car, but not so much for a tall geared off road vehicle that easily runs way over 3,000 rpms on the road. The upgraded turbo should fix the situation.
With that information I think you just install it for now without the turbo upgrade and see where you are at.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
02-09-2012, 06:52 PM
#7
Thanks for the info brotha!
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
SurfRodder
02-09-2012, 06:52 PM #7I may just do that then... I do spend a little bit of time >3K when cruising about 75-80, but theres not much power up that high anyway... I think that I will have my dad weld up my pop tester this weekend after he knocks out those brackets for the Jeep shocks and then I can rebuild my spare injectors...only wanna have to do that shite once...might as well knock out the whole injection system while I'm at it...
Thanks for the info brotha!
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
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