603 bad fan clutch
603 bad fan clutch
I'm not completely against electric fans, in fact I have a Volvo 2speed E-fan sitting right next to the car. I just hate Volvos and don't want to put any thing Swedish on my car. Is there any other options that are bolt on?
606?
U85 - 300TD Black Wagon, Non EGR exhaust manifold, W115 intake (SOLD)
87 - 300SDL Black, AMG 17" Wheels, Euro Headlights, #18 Head (FOR SALE)
My 87 300SDL fan clutch is shot. With the engine off I can flick the fan and it spins a good 5-7 revolutions before it stops. So just for fun I thought it would be a good test to try and stop it while the engine was running (I was fairly confident this was a good idea), sure enough it stopped very easly without any loss of blood.
I'm not completely against electric fans, in fact I have a Volvo 2speed E-fan sitting right next to the car. I just hate Volvos and don't want to put any thing Swedish on my car. Is there any other options that are bolt on?
606?
U85 - 300TD Black Wagon, Non EGR exhaust manifold, W115 intake (SOLD)
87 - 300SDL Black, AMG 17" Wheels, Euro Headlights, #18 Head (FOR SALE)
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
01-27-2012, 04:01 PM #3I'll look in my garage this week end I may have one sitting on the shelf
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
so I am not too familiar with the specific clutch & fan this thread is about. I have done this for quite a few people here on my street that are on a budget and definitely cant afford new fan clutches. Works on some but not all. Pre-drill a hole right through the nylon fan base to the aluminum housing but ONLY WHERE THE ALUMINUM IS SOLID. and then insert an adequate sized stainless steel self tapping screw. Then the same directly opposite (180*) of the one already completed. It only requires removal of four 10mm bolts to make the whole assembly portable so it can be taken to the workbench. Start to finish should take no more than 15-30 minutes.Or eliminate the factory clutch fan (requires no parts/adapters/$) and relocate the factory cooling fan a few inches over to the the right and as low as possible and mount the Volvo cooling fan you have on the upper left side. I used a 12" fan and space was VERY LIMITED and barely worked. 12" is "possibly" the largest that can be used depending on design. I could have chopped a mounting tab but I prefer for everything to be PERFECT when my own. They make nylon ties (for Trans. or P/S coolers) to mount the fans directly to the radiator and they're good stuff. If you can't find them. I have them. + Always wire a fan with a relay.
I have had now for a few years an eliminated clutch fan, two 10" high flow cooling fans wired through a 2 fan relay, thermostat and of course a manual over ride. 100*F+ Texas summer days are not a problem.
1982 300SuperDecel (W126)
THE BEST OR NOTHING
TexasSuperDecel
01-27-2012, 05:18 PM #4I eliminated my clutch fan long ago when I first started the project I'm still working on so I am not too familiar with the specific clutch & fan this thread is about. I have done this for quite a few people here on my street that are on a budget and definitely cant afford new fan clutches. Works on some but not all. Pre-drill a hole right through the nylon fan base to the aluminum housing but ONLY WHERE THE ALUMINUM IS SOLID. and then insert an adequate sized stainless steel self tapping screw. Then the same directly opposite (180*) of the one already completed. It only requires removal of four 10mm bolts to make the whole assembly portable so it can be taken to the workbench. Start to finish should take no more than 15-30 minutes.
Or eliminate the factory clutch fan (requires no parts/adapters/$) and relocate the factory cooling fan a few inches over to the the right and as low as possible and mount the Volvo cooling fan you have on the upper left side. I used a 12" fan and space was VERY LIMITED and barely worked. 12" is "possibly" the largest that can be used depending on design. I could have chopped a mounting tab but I prefer for everything to be PERFECT when my own. They make nylon ties (for Trans. or P/S coolers) to mount the fans directly to the radiator and they're good stuff. If you can't find them. I have them. + Always wire a fan with a relay.
I have had now for a few years an eliminated clutch fan, two 10" high flow cooling fans wired through a 2 fan relay, thermostat and of course a manual over ride. 100*F+ Texas summer days are not a problem.
1982 300SuperDecel (W126)
THE BEST OR NOTHING
-Jesse
80 300sd hy35, front mount intercooler, w115 intake, rack limiter removed, Alda removed, full load turned up, boost, ebp, trans, pyro, egr delete, 3.5" exhaust, e-fan, 16x8 rims with, 245/50 tires, lowered, bilstien 5100's, 12" front brakes, 2.65:1 diff.
97 f250 psd 4x4, crawler
70 f250 390
83 Volvo 242, lots of mods
66 Volvo amazon
10 mistsubishi fuso service truck.
Just put the Volvo fan in it. Paint over the "Volvo" on it. It has a nice shroud and you can control it better. Have the high kick on with the a/c to help make it nice and cool on the black gangster oven. Mines been working fine on my car for awhile now.
-Jesse
80 300sd hy35, front mount intercooler, w115 intake, rack limiter removed, Alda removed, full load turned up, boost, ebp, trans, pyro, egr delete, 3.5" exhaust, e-fan, 16x8 rims with, 245/50 tires, lowered, bilstien 5100's, 12" front brakes, 2.65:1 diff.
97 f250 psd 4x4, crawler
70 f250 390
83 Volvo 242, lots of mods
66 Volvo amazon
10 mistsubishi fuso service truck.
Gone but not forgotten: two W123 sedans and two W124 wagons.
W124 1987 300TD wagon, for sale, $1000 (some assembly required).
JustPassinThru
01-28-2012, 10:51 AM #6I have sent you a PM.
Gone but not forgotten: two W123 sedans and two W124 wagons.
W124 1987 300TD wagon, for sale, $1000 (some assembly required).
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