STD Tuning Engine How far should I tear into it?

How far should I tear into it?

How far should I tear into it?

 
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aka rover
Naturally-aspirated

23
01-10-2012, 01:16 AM #1
1983 om617 turbo 200K runs good a little bit of a rough idle but started last week at -2 deg without being plugged in, so good compression I would think.


I have the motor out and on a stand and was wondering how far I shoud go into it?

It is a oily mess and i have cleaned it up and was going to replace all oil gaskets and seals.

Should I remove head and replace gasket, or just run it there isnt any signs of leaks.

Should I reseal main pan or just the metal small one?

The IP pump is dry and not leaky but the hand pump sprays back at me when I pump it, so a replace or rebuild is in order.

Turbo is stock but would like to upgrade it and add fuel to the motor to gain a few HP while im at this point. I have a KKK26 I took off my 930 to upgrade it? its the 3ldz from a 79. Not sure it will work or not.

Should I replace timming chain at this point and guides.

Any thoughts would be great

Cheers Ed





aka rover
01-10-2012, 01:16 AM #1

1983 om617 turbo 200K runs good a little bit of a rough idle but started last week at -2 deg without being plugged in, so good compression I would think.


I have the motor out and on a stand and was wondering how far I shoud go into it?

It is a oily mess and i have cleaned it up and was going to replace all oil gaskets and seals.

Should I remove head and replace gasket, or just run it there isnt any signs of leaks.

Should I reseal main pan or just the metal small one?

The IP pump is dry and not leaky but the hand pump sprays back at me when I pump it, so a replace or rebuild is in order.

Turbo is stock but would like to upgrade it and add fuel to the motor to gain a few HP while im at this point. I have a KKK26 I took off my 930 to upgrade it? its the 3ldz from a 79. Not sure it will work or not.

Should I replace timming chain at this point and guides.

Any thoughts would be great

Cheers Ed





Captain America
Boostin' & Roostin'

2,221
01-10-2012, 01:23 AM #2
Valve adjustment, check timing chain.

Replace easy seals

if you are going to play with the IP, do it on the stand, will be much easier


1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag

AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....

Captain America
01-10-2012, 01:23 AM #2

Valve adjustment, check timing chain.

Replace easy seals

if you are going to play with the IP, do it on the stand, will be much easier



1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag

AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....

TexasSuperDecel
S p o o l i n' in O/D

11
01-10-2012, 02:48 AM #3
I have 700,000 miles on the original head gasket in my OM617. If there are no noticable problems with it on a stand. I'd run it. I would do the following if I were to purchase a used OM617 or had it on a stand before install for ease of access especially if in a different chassis.

Valve cover gasket OEM $ 5.23 (
Hand primer pump OEM $15.06
Intake manifold gasket OEM $ 14.20
Turbo mounting gasket kit OEM $ 33.72
Oil filter housing to engine block gasket OEM $ 3.14
Oil pan gasket OEM $ 13.09
Timing tensioner spring OEM $ 4.72
Timing tensioner gasket OEM $ 0.91
Oil filter OEM $ 8.54
Canister type fuel filter OEM (Bosch) $ 7.83
Inline fuel filter depending on setup.
Belts.
Upper/Lower radiator hoses.
Thermostat.

1982 300SuperDecel (W126)
THE BEST OR NOTHING
TexasSuperDecel
01-10-2012, 02:48 AM #3

I have 700,000 miles on the original head gasket in my OM617. If there are no noticable problems with it on a stand. I'd run it. I would do the following if I were to purchase a used OM617 or had it on a stand before install for ease of access especially if in a different chassis.

Valve cover gasket OEM $ 5.23 (
Hand primer pump OEM $15.06
Intake manifold gasket OEM $ 14.20
Turbo mounting gasket kit OEM $ 33.72
Oil filter housing to engine block gasket OEM $ 3.14
Oil pan gasket OEM $ 13.09
Timing tensioner spring OEM $ 4.72
Timing tensioner gasket OEM $ 0.91
Oil filter OEM $ 8.54
Canister type fuel filter OEM (Bosch) $ 7.83
Inline fuel filter depending on setup.
Belts.
Upper/Lower radiator hoses.
Thermostat.


1982 300SuperDecel (W126)
THE BEST OR NOTHING

willbhere4u
Six in a row make her go!

2,507
01-10-2012, 04:42 PM #4
I'd also do the front main seal and rear if it leaking!

1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
01-10-2012, 04:42 PM #4

I'd also do the front main seal and rear if it leaking!


1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running

dude99
TA 0301

64
01-12-2012, 11:59 PM #5
I'd do the front and rear main seals even if they weren't leaking. There a pain in the ass to do with the engine in and there cheap. Do them no forget about them later.
dude99
01-12-2012, 11:59 PM #5

I'd do the front and rear main seals even if they weren't leaking. There a pain in the ass to do with the engine in and there cheap. Do them no forget about them later.

 
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