Grinding Noise when driving.
Grinding Noise when driving.
11-02-2011, 07:07 PM
#1
This is has been happening lately with my car and I think it might be the motor mounts and shock but let me explain whats going on
so the car is a 79 240D. When I drive there is a noticeable grinding noise. Im not sure what I can compare it too.
When the car is Idle it sounds like a tin can shacking, I thought this was the air cleaner mounts but I put new ones in no less then 4 months ago.
Also when making turns it is the worst. The car makes this creaking noise but goes away as soon as I straighten the wheel
I replaced all four shock absorbers no less then a month ago in hopes this was a problem.
any thoughts?
I would like to sort this problem out before I bolt on my turbo kit for this car.
PS. How can I tighten my steering wheel? its loose as heck and the steering gear most likely needs to be replaced but is there anything in the meantime I can do to make it stiff?
Purplecomputer
11-02-2011, 07:07 PM #1Hey guys
This is has been happening lately with my car and I think it might be the motor mounts and shock but let me explain whats going on
so the car is a 79 240D. When I drive there is a noticeable grinding noise. Im not sure what I can compare it too.
When the car is Idle it sounds like a tin can shacking, I thought this was the air cleaner mounts but I put new ones in no less then 4 months ago.
Also when making turns it is the worst. The car makes this creaking noise but goes away as soon as I straighten the wheel
I replaced all four shock absorbers no less then a month ago in hopes this was a problem.
any thoughts?
I would like to sort this problem out before I bolt on my turbo kit for this car.
PS. How can I tighten my steering wheel? its loose as heck and the steering gear most likely needs to be replaced but is there anything in the meantime I can do to make it stiff?
11-02-2011, 07:13 PM
#2
Some people say w126 bushings can replace the w123 bushings. Lower ones at least I dunno about upper. I have only ever put w123 bushings in.
There is an allen screw on the steering box that can be turned ccw to tighten the steering wheel.
I think you are supposed to get the front wheels off the ground and point them to dead center when you adjust it. But I have just turned it with the car on the ground.
This post was last modified: 11-02-2011, 07:15 PM by larsalan.
Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Power steering fluid? Worn upper and lower control arm bushings?
Some people say w126 bushings can replace the w123 bushings. Lower ones at least I dunno about upper. I have only ever put w123 bushings in.
There is an allen screw on the steering box that can be turned ccw to tighten the steering wheel.
I think you are supposed to get the front wheels off the ground and point them to dead center when you adjust it. But I have just turned it with the car on the ground.
Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
11-02-2011, 07:17 PM
#3
(11-02-2011, 07:13 PM)larsalan Power steering fluid? Worn upper and lower control arm bushings?
Some people say w126 bushings can replace the w123 bushings. Lower ones at least I dunno about upper. I have only ever put w123 bushings in.
There is an allen screw on the steering box that can be turned ccw to tighten the steering wheel.
I think you are supposed to get the front wheels off the ground and point them to dead center when you adjust it. But I have just turned it with the car on the ground.
hmm, never checked the power steering fluid. Last time I checked the bushings and arms they were pretty bad. I should just replace everything.
Purplecomputer
11-02-2011, 07:17 PM #3(11-02-2011, 07:13 PM)larsalan Power steering fluid? Worn upper and lower control arm bushings?
Some people say w126 bushings can replace the w123 bushings. Lower ones at least I dunno about upper. I have only ever put w123 bushings in.
There is an allen screw on the steering box that can be turned ccw to tighten the steering wheel.
I think you are supposed to get the front wheels off the ground and point them to dead center when you adjust it. But I have just turned it with the car on the ground.
hmm, never checked the power steering fluid. Last time I checked the bushings and arms they were pretty bad. I should just replace everything.
11-02-2011, 07:23 PM
#4
I have seem numerous ps reservoirs low due to the MBZ stupid hose clamps leaking. Use hose clamps with a regular worm gear instead of that MBZ screw.
This post was last modified: 11-02-2011, 07:25 PM by larsalan.
Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Arms are bad?
I have seem numerous ps reservoirs low due to the MBZ stupid hose clamps leaking. Use hose clamps with a regular worm gear instead of that MBZ screw.
Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
11-02-2011, 07:38 PM
#5
(11-02-2011, 07:23 PM)larsalan Arms are bad?
I have seem numerous ps reservoirs low due to the MBZ stupid hose clamps leaking. Use hose clamps with a regular worm gear instead of that MBZ screw.
im not familiar with the hose clamp you are talking about.
Purplecomputer
11-02-2011, 07:38 PM #5(11-02-2011, 07:23 PM)larsalan Arms are bad?
I have seem numerous ps reservoirs low due to the MBZ stupid hose clamps leaking. Use hose clamps with a regular worm gear instead of that MBZ screw.
im not familiar with the hose clamp you are talking about.
11-02-2011, 07:43 PM
#6
MBZ uses these clamps that can only tighten to a certain size and then their screw is bottomed out. These clamps are pretty worthless because they can't get tight enough and then leak.
Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
You'll see them all over the hoses in there. I am saying a clamp with a worm gear setup s good but...
MBZ uses these clamps that can only tighten to a certain size and then their screw is bottomed out. These clamps are pretty worthless because they can't get tight enough and then leak.
Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
11-02-2011, 08:59 PM
#7
(11-02-2011, 07:43 PM)larsalan You'll see them all over the hoses in there. I am saying a clamp with a worm gear setup s good but...
MBZ uses these clamps that can only tighten to a certain size and then their screw is bottomed out. These clamps are pretty worthless because they can't get tight enough and then leak.
Ill take a look when im under the hood next time.
a better questions should be, should I just replace the motor mounts regardless? the original owner never changed majority of any parts. I could tell because the car still had the orignal shocks when i replaced them
Purplecomputer
11-02-2011, 08:59 PM #7(11-02-2011, 07:43 PM)larsalan You'll see them all over the hoses in there. I am saying a clamp with a worm gear setup s good but...
MBZ uses these clamps that can only tighten to a certain size and then their screw is bottomed out. These clamps are pretty worthless because they can't get tight enough and then leak.
Ill take a look when im under the hood next time.
a better questions should be, should I just replace the motor mounts regardless? the original owner never changed majority of any parts. I could tell because the car still had the orignal shocks when i replaced them
11-03-2011, 01:38 PM
#8
I have an engine lifter, is this a hard job if i just lift the engine a few inches?
Purplecomputer
11-03-2011, 01:38 PM #8Checked the power steering fluid and it was full, no leaks. Also adjusted the steering gear. Seems to be better and then noise isnt as noticable. The engine mounts are dry rotted when I checked this morning and look as if they cracked under the pressure of the engine.
I have an engine lifter, is this a hard job if i just lift the engine a few inches?
11-04-2011, 05:38 AM
#9
(11-02-2011, 07:07 PM)Purplecomputer When the car is Idle it sounds like a tin can shacking, I thought this was the air cleaner mounts but I put new ones in no less then 4 months ago.
Also when making turns it is the worst. The car makes this creaking noise but goes away as soon as I straighten the wheel
Is the actual air cleaner mount bracket itself broken? From approximately where in the engine bay is the rattle coming from? Could be anything from a loose exhaust bolt to a loose heat shield to bad motor mounts causing contact somewhere.
The creaking noise sounds seperate. People have found a number of front suspension parts to be the culprit. I personally found it to be a dry lower ball joint. it was otherwise tight, I jammed some axle grease up under the boot and the turning creak went away
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(11-02-2011, 07:07 PM)Purplecomputer When the car is Idle it sounds like a tin can shacking, I thought this was the air cleaner mounts but I put new ones in no less then 4 months ago.
Also when making turns it is the worst. The car makes this creaking noise but goes away as soon as I straighten the wheel
Is the actual air cleaner mount bracket itself broken? From approximately where in the engine bay is the rattle coming from? Could be anything from a loose exhaust bolt to a loose heat shield to bad motor mounts causing contact somewhere.
The creaking noise sounds seperate. People have found a number of front suspension parts to be the culprit. I personally found it to be a dry lower ball joint. it was otherwise tight, I jammed some axle grease up under the boot and the turning creak went away
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
11-04-2011, 09:12 PM
#10
(11-04-2011, 05:38 AM)dropnosky(11-02-2011, 07:07 PM)Purplecomputer When the car is Idle it sounds like a tin can shacking, I thought this was the air cleaner mounts but I put new ones in no less then 4 months ago.
Also when making turns it is the worst. The car makes this creaking noise but goes away as soon as I straighten the wheel
Is the actual air cleaner mount bracket itself broken? From approximately where in the engine bay is the rattle coming from? Could be anything from a loose exhaust bolt to a loose heat shield to bad motor mounts causing contact somewhere.
The creaking noise sounds seperate. People have found a number of front suspension parts to be the culprit. I personally found it to be a dry lower ball joint. it was otherwise tight, I jammed some axle grease up under the boot and the turning creak went away
you pointed out some other places that make a lot of sense. The noise sounds like its coming from the driver side fender, probably dry rotted bushings, I have a lot of rubber parts to change.
Purplecomputer
11-04-2011, 09:12 PM #10(11-04-2011, 05:38 AM)dropnosky(11-02-2011, 07:07 PM)Purplecomputer When the car is Idle it sounds like a tin can shacking, I thought this was the air cleaner mounts but I put new ones in no less then 4 months ago.
Also when making turns it is the worst. The car makes this creaking noise but goes away as soon as I straighten the wheel
Is the actual air cleaner mount bracket itself broken? From approximately where in the engine bay is the rattle coming from? Could be anything from a loose exhaust bolt to a loose heat shield to bad motor mounts causing contact somewhere.
The creaking noise sounds seperate. People have found a number of front suspension parts to be the culprit. I personally found it to be a dry lower ball joint. it was otherwise tight, I jammed some axle grease up under the boot and the turning creak went away
you pointed out some other places that make a lot of sense. The noise sounds like its coming from the driver side fender, probably dry rotted bushings, I have a lot of rubber parts to change.
11-05-2011, 03:48 PM
#11
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
11-05-2011, 03:48 PM #11I just changed the driver's side motor mount last week, before changing the car ran terrible and was extremely loud, afterwards it is nice and smooth and no more violent shaking, and not nearly as loud as it was.
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
11-05-2011, 05:55 PM
#12
(11-05-2011, 03:48 PM)sassparilla_kid I just changed the driver's side motor mount last week, before changing the car ran terrible and was extremely loud, afterwards it is nice and smooth and no more violent shaking, and not nearly as loud as it was.
how hard was the job? I want to change both of mine.
Purplecomputer
11-05-2011, 05:55 PM #12(11-05-2011, 03:48 PM)sassparilla_kid I just changed the driver's side motor mount last week, before changing the car ran terrible and was extremely loud, afterwards it is nice and smooth and no more violent shaking, and not nearly as loud as it was.
how hard was the job? I want to change both of mine.
11-06-2011, 12:33 AM
#13
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
11-06-2011, 12:33 AM #13If you have the correct tools, and a little bit of patience, its not too difficult of a job. I only replaced the one side because I had some other things I wanted to get done before going to work. 1 bolt holding the mount to the engine, and two smaller ones holding it to the frame, both take special hex-head bits mine are 3/8 drive. Just make sure to get a large block of wood (4X4 or so at least) that goes all the way across the oil pan when jacking the engine up to prevent crushing the oil pan
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
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