STD Tuning Brakes compressing pistons on bendix calipers?

compressing pistons on bendix calipers?

compressing pistons on bendix calipers?

 
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randomdude
GT2256V

106
09-26-2011, 02:06 PM #1
i changed my front pads this weekend, and when going to re-install the new pads of course i needed to compress the pistons. my car has the bendix dual piston (non-floating) calipers, and there wasn't really enough space to squeeze in a C clamp to do the job. i took my Cclamp and used an angle grinder to cut the top off the clamp off right above the fixed pad. it took about 1/2 or 3/4 " off the clamp and it was just BARELY enough to get it to fit in between the pistons to compress them. and what do you know, while compressing the last piston, the heat from grinding off the top of the clamp weakend the metal and the clamp snaped in half Angry.

there has to be an easier way. never had a w123 before, whats the secret tool needed to make compressing the pistons easier than pulling teeth???

thanks in advance.

cars? what cars? WHERE???
randomdude
09-26-2011, 02:06 PM #1

i changed my front pads this weekend, and when going to re-install the new pads of course i needed to compress the pistons. my car has the bendix dual piston (non-floating) calipers, and there wasn't really enough space to squeeze in a C clamp to do the job. i took my Cclamp and used an angle grinder to cut the top off the clamp off right above the fixed pad. it took about 1/2 or 3/4 " off the clamp and it was just BARELY enough to get it to fit in between the pistons to compress them. and what do you know, while compressing the last piston, the heat from grinding off the top of the clamp weakend the metal and the clamp snaped in half Angry.

there has to be an easier way. never had a w123 before, whats the secret tool needed to make compressing the pistons easier than pulling teeth???

thanks in advance.


cars? what cars? WHERE???

DanielK
Big Plans, No Clue

98
09-26-2011, 04:07 PM #2
I use a prybar. You're not strong enough to tweak your rotor. Think, your car isn't strong enough to tweak the rotor.

[Image: FalkonSig.png]
DanielK
09-26-2011, 04:07 PM #2

I use a prybar. You're not strong enough to tweak your rotor. Think, your car isn't strong enough to tweak the rotor.


[Image: FalkonSig.png]

randomdude
GT2256V

106
09-26-2011, 08:59 PM #3
where the heck did rotors come from? you dont touch the rotor when compressing caliper pistons.

cars? what cars? WHERE???
randomdude
09-26-2011, 08:59 PM #3

where the heck did rotors come from? you dont touch the rotor when compressing caliper pistons.


cars? what cars? WHERE???

mike-81-240d
more like mike-84-300d now

427
09-27-2011, 12:14 AM #4
I also use a prybar. Works great for me. I'm 17, 5ft 11, 130lbs and I've done brakes on three w123's with no sweat.
This post was last modified: 09-27-2011, 12:14 AM by mike-81-240d.

1981 Mercedes 300TD Lowered 4 speed manual Holset HX30 
mike-81-240d
09-27-2011, 12:14 AM #4

I also use a prybar. Works great for me. I'm 17, 5ft 11, 130lbs and I've done brakes on three w123's with no sweat.


1981 Mercedes 300TD Lowered 4 speed manual Holset HX30 

JustPassinThru
W123 and W124

491
09-27-2011, 10:27 AM #5
On my recently-installed Bendix fronts I used two 10-inch Vise-Grips to compress the inner side and that was plenty easy. Probably could do it with only one Vise-Grip, but I'm the cautious type. Once the caliper is off, the pistons can be compressed all the way in (so you can fit the new pads in) by hand if you have strong thumbs (easier on your thumbs if you place an old (but clean it up first) pad across the piston). Helps if you loosen the brake fluid reservoir cap, so the air can displace (otherwise you're working against compressed air). You should bleed the brakes (actually, you should pour-and-bleed enough fresh brake fluid from a never-before-opened new can through to flush the entire line between the master cylinder and caliper. Pour-and-bleed-through until the bleeded-out fluid is clear, then another two fluid ounces to make sure.) every time you change pads. Bleeding should be done on a zero-humidity day (brake fluid has a strong appetite for atmospheric water, and water in your brake cylinder+line+piston is a big no-no. Don't leave the cap off the brake fluid can any longer than you have to.). Don't forget to re-tighten the reservoir cap when you're done.
This post was last modified: 09-28-2011, 12:38 AM by JustPassinThru.

Gone but not forgotten: two W123 sedans and two W124 wagons.
W124 1987 300TD wagon, for sale, $1000 (some assembly required).
JustPassinThru
09-27-2011, 10:27 AM #5

On my recently-installed Bendix fronts I used two 10-inch Vise-Grips to compress the inner side and that was plenty easy. Probably could do it with only one Vise-Grip, but I'm the cautious type. Once the caliper is off, the pistons can be compressed all the way in (so you can fit the new pads in) by hand if you have strong thumbs (easier on your thumbs if you place an old (but clean it up first) pad across the piston). Helps if you loosen the brake fluid reservoir cap, so the air can displace (otherwise you're working against compressed air). You should bleed the brakes (actually, you should pour-and-bleed enough fresh brake fluid from a never-before-opened new can through to flush the entire line between the master cylinder and caliper. Pour-and-bleed-through until the bleeded-out fluid is clear, then another two fluid ounces to make sure.) every time you change pads. Bleeding should be done on a zero-humidity day (brake fluid has a strong appetite for atmospheric water, and water in your brake cylinder+line+piston is a big no-no. Don't leave the cap off the brake fluid can any longer than you have to.). Don't forget to re-tighten the reservoir cap when you're done.


Gone but not forgotten: two W123 sedans and two W124 wagons.
W124 1987 300TD wagon, for sale, $1000 (some assembly required).

DeliveryValve
Superturbo

1,338
09-27-2011, 02:49 PM #6
(09-26-2011, 08:59 PM)randomdude where the heck did rotors come from? you dont touch the rotor when compressing caliper pistons.

I do. You keep the caliper on the car with the pads removed. Put the prybar between the rotor and piston and leverage your way until the piston goes down. Much easier then using the c-clamp for that caliper.


.
(09-27-2011, 10:27 AM)JustPassinThru Where did you find the dual-piston Bendix? So far I've only seen single-piston ones. ...

You serious? I don't think I ever seen a single piston caliper for the w123 or w126. In fact if you want a Bendix first Gen w126 dual piston caliper, I have a good set right now. Make me an offer.



.
This post was last modified: 09-27-2011, 02:52 PM by DeliveryValve.

Gota love Mercedes Diesels!



.
DeliveryValve
09-27-2011, 02:49 PM #6

(09-26-2011, 08:59 PM)randomdude where the heck did rotors come from? you dont touch the rotor when compressing caliper pistons.

I do. You keep the caliper on the car with the pads removed. Put the prybar between the rotor and piston and leverage your way until the piston goes down. Much easier then using the c-clamp for that caliper.


.
(09-27-2011, 10:27 AM)JustPassinThru Where did you find the dual-piston Bendix? So far I've only seen single-piston ones. ...

You serious? I don't think I ever seen a single piston caliper for the w123 or w126. In fact if you want a Bendix first Gen w126 dual piston caliper, I have a good set right now. Make me an offer.



.


Gota love Mercedes Diesels!



.

JustPassinThru
W123 and W124

491
09-28-2011, 12:36 AM #7
(09-27-2011, 02:49 PM)DeliveryValve
(09-27-2011, 10:27 AM)JustPassinThru Where did you find the dual-piston Bendix? So far I've only seen single-piston ones. ...
You serious? I don't think I ever seen a single piston caliper for the w123 or w126. In fact if you want a Bendix first Gen w126 dual piston caliper, I have a good set right now. Make me an offer.

You're right. Blush I just went out and jacked 'er up, took the tire off, loosened the reservoir cap, compressed the inner piston with Vise-Grips, pulled the caliper, took the pads off, and, son-of-a-gun, there *is* a piston on the outer side as well, isn't there! --Heh...I renewed the pads when I put these calipers on, and didn't even notice that! Undoubtedly I compressed all four, but the fact didn't register on my conscious mind that I was compressing twice as many pistons as on my previous (American) car. I guess that's one disadvantage of my insistence on doing my brakes only on a zero-humidity day. It was about 90 degrees out. I don't think too clearly in hot weather!
This post was last modified: 09-28-2011, 08:29 AM by JustPassinThru.

Gone but not forgotten: two W123 sedans and two W124 wagons.
W124 1987 300TD wagon, for sale, $1000 (some assembly required).
JustPassinThru
09-28-2011, 12:36 AM #7

(09-27-2011, 02:49 PM)DeliveryValve
(09-27-2011, 10:27 AM)JustPassinThru Where did you find the dual-piston Bendix? So far I've only seen single-piston ones. ...
You serious? I don't think I ever seen a single piston caliper for the w123 or w126. In fact if you want a Bendix first Gen w126 dual piston caliper, I have a good set right now. Make me an offer.

You're right. Blush I just went out and jacked 'er up, took the tire off, loosened the reservoir cap, compressed the inner piston with Vise-Grips, pulled the caliper, took the pads off, and, son-of-a-gun, there *is* a piston on the outer side as well, isn't there! --Heh...I renewed the pads when I put these calipers on, and didn't even notice that! Undoubtedly I compressed all four, but the fact didn't register on my conscious mind that I was compressing twice as many pistons as on my previous (American) car. I guess that's one disadvantage of my insistence on doing my brakes only on a zero-humidity day. It was about 90 degrees out. I don't think too clearly in hot weather!


Gone but not forgotten: two W123 sedans and two W124 wagons.
W124 1987 300TD wagon, for sale, $1000 (some assembly required).

 
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