wtb k26 turbo
wtb k26 turbo
thanks
another toyota fj40 transplant thanks to luke, mercedes, gm, toyota, extreme bends.... superturbodiesel!
looking for more response than my garrett will provide for a om 617 toyota landcruiser swap. i'd be interested in a good core that i could rebuild or a turbo in good working order.
thanks
another toyota fj40 transplant thanks to luke, mercedes, gm, toyota, extreme bends.... superturbodiesel!
(05-31-2011, 07:26 AM)TheDon What is the k26 from?
If I recall, you had a K26 on your w123.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
05-31-2011, 04:13 PM #4(05-31-2011, 07:26 AM)TheDon What is the k26 from?
If I recall, you had a K26 on your w123.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
another toyota fj40 transplant thanks to luke, mercedes, gm, toyota, extreme bends.... superturbodiesel!
i don't know why some 300d and sd came with kkks on some and others got garretts, but mine came from an 84 or 85 sd. was it strictly a supply issue? somebody set me up with the tools to get to the greener other side.
another toyota fj40 transplant thanks to luke, mercedes, gm, toyota, extreme bends.... superturbodiesel!
You can reduce turbo lag by retarding your injection timing, if thats what you're looking for.
1 degree maybe 2 below factory will show a difference.
totaldisaster
06-05-2011, 06:39 PM #6Why do you think the k26 is better?
You can reduce turbo lag by retarding your injection timing, if thats what you're looking for.
1 degree maybe 2 below factory will show a difference.
my local pick-n-pull seems to sell off all their turbos to some shady private party before they get out into the yard. i'd love to find one i can just rebuild for cheap.
i'm not familiar enough with diesel mechanics to understand why retarding the ip would speed up the spool rate. what gives?
another toyota fj40 transplant thanks to luke, mercedes, gm, toyota, extreme bends.... superturbodiesel!
i suppose i'm just reacting to what i've read on forums. i don't really know the specs on either one, though everything i've heard indicates that they are smaller.
my local pick-n-pull seems to sell off all their turbos to some shady private party before they get out into the yard. i'd love to find one i can just rebuild for cheap.
i'm not familiar enough with diesel mechanics to understand why retarding the ip would speed up the spool rate. what gives?
another toyota fj40 transplant thanks to luke, mercedes, gm, toyota, extreme bends.... superturbodiesel!
In simple terms, retarding the timing will allow more heat energy to reach the turbo instead of being spent / lost in the cylinders. Go too far and mpg drops, but do it just right and you should not notice a measurable difference.
If you do alot if in-town driving, this adjustment makes sense.. otherwise, live with lag. It happens.
I am a little concerned you may have other issues if the car feels 'soft'. The lag and response on these engines isn't really that bad, even with the timing advanced.
I would start by:
determining your current injection pump timing.
making sure your wastegate is not leaking and there are no other boost leaks.
make sure the bolt in the back of the intake manifold is clean and bypass the electrical switchover valve on the firewalll that it is connected to via white plastic tube.
totaldisaster
06-06-2011, 08:42 AM #8Its true, they are smaller and should spool faster, but that also means they should have a smaller window of optimal performance.
In simple terms, retarding the timing will allow more heat energy to reach the turbo instead of being spent / lost in the cylinders. Go too far and mpg drops, but do it just right and you should not notice a measurable difference.
If you do alot if in-town driving, this adjustment makes sense.. otherwise, live with lag. It happens.
I am a little concerned you may have other issues if the car feels 'soft'. The lag and response on these engines isn't really that bad, even with the timing advanced.
I would start by:
determining your current injection pump timing.
making sure your wastegate is not leaking and there are no other boost leaks.
make sure the bolt in the back of the intake manifold is clean and bypass the electrical switchover valve on the firewalll that it is connected to via white plastic tube.
(06-06-2011, 08:42 AM)totaldisaster Its true, they are smaller and should spool faster, but that also means they should have a smaller window of optimal performance.Restrictions in alda hose system does slow initial boost,try also drilling air fittings,does work ,many happy customers Hoses on later engines are smaller,mbz wanted to apply boost smoothly.
In simple terms, retarding the timing will allow more heat energy to reach the turbo instead of being spent / lost in the cylinders. Go too far and mpg drops, but do it just right and you should not notice a measurable difference.
If you do alot if in-town driving, this adjustment makes sense.. otherwise, live with lag. It happens.
I am a little concerned you may have other issues if the car feels 'soft'. The lag and response on these engines isn't really that bad, even with the timing advanced.
I would start by:
determining your current injection pump timing.
making sure your wastegate is not leaking and there are no other boost leaks.
make sure the bolt in the back of the intake manifold is clean and bypass the electrical switchover valve on the firewalll that it is connected to via white plastic tube.
Installed kkk turbo on 85 300sd,testing performance difference from garrett. KKK turbo,much stronger idle,less smoking,(positive pressure at idle),Yes I readjusted Everything. Good low end power to 20mph,great mid range,. to 60mph,65mph up much slower then garrett. Lots of freeway driving ,above 65mph,lost 3mpg.Reinstalled garrett mileage returned. Useage,city and mt. driving,kkk would perform best. KKK out performed garrett till 60mph. Hope this helps with choosing.
(06-06-2011, 08:42 AM)totaldisaster Its true, they are smaller and should spool faster, but that also means they should have a smaller window of optimal performance.Restrictions in alda hose system does slow initial boost,try also drilling air fittings,does work ,many happy customers Hoses on later engines are smaller,mbz wanted to apply boost smoothly.
In simple terms, retarding the timing will allow more heat energy to reach the turbo instead of being spent / lost in the cylinders. Go too far and mpg drops, but do it just right and you should not notice a measurable difference.
If you do alot if in-town driving, this adjustment makes sense.. otherwise, live with lag. It happens.
I am a little concerned you may have other issues if the car feels 'soft'. The lag and response on these engines isn't really that bad, even with the timing advanced.
I would start by:
determining your current injection pump timing.
making sure your wastegate is not leaking and there are no other boost leaks.
make sure the bolt in the back of the intake manifold is clean and bypass the electrical switchover valve on the firewalll that it is connected to via white plastic tube.
i think you have talked me into waiting until i do some more testing. truthfully, i haven't even driven it yet.
i'm new to all of this but have drip set the IP to 26* twice, adjusted valves, new but admittedly small silicone boost lines to alda and switch over, woodruff keyed teh cam sprocket for stretch, monark nozzles balanced nicely, futzed with alda for some smoke (hello throttle response!), eliminated egr, added a W115 intake manifold, installed fuel pressure gauge reading ~15 at idle and 20 w/ some rpm (no load yet). i have an EGT and boost gauge, both of which are not yet operational. no clue as to what my boost is on newly rebuilt garrett.
i think i'll just calm down on the hardware acquisition and get it on the road to tune it. i just realized there is a awd chassis dyno about a mile from my place! i could eventually look into hybridizing the t3 once i learn more about trim and ar etc. or just go for it with a vgt (though i'd like to keep it simple and bullet proof).
i'll try timing at ~23* and i assume by drilling you are talking about the banjo bolts. i can pressurize the intake to look for boost leaks too. i'll just futz with it some.
thanks again guys!
oh, and i'll start posting on the tech forums now instead of the classifieds
another toyota fj40 transplant thanks to luke, mercedes, gm, toyota, extreme bends.... superturbodiesel!
thanks guys, great feedback.
i think you have talked me into waiting until i do some more testing. truthfully, i haven't even driven it yet.
i'm new to all of this but have drip set the IP to 26* twice, adjusted valves, new but admittedly small silicone boost lines to alda and switch over, woodruff keyed teh cam sprocket for stretch, monark nozzles balanced nicely, futzed with alda for some smoke (hello throttle response!), eliminated egr, added a W115 intake manifold, installed fuel pressure gauge reading ~15 at idle and 20 w/ some rpm (no load yet). i have an EGT and boost gauge, both of which are not yet operational. no clue as to what my boost is on newly rebuilt garrett.
i think i'll just calm down on the hardware acquisition and get it on the road to tune it. i just realized there is a awd chassis dyno about a mile from my place! i could eventually look into hybridizing the t3 once i learn more about trim and ar etc. or just go for it with a vgt (though i'd like to keep it simple and bullet proof).
i'll try timing at ~23* and i assume by drilling you are talking about the banjo bolts. i can pressurize the intake to look for boost leaks too. i'll just futz with it some.
thanks again guys!
oh, and i'll start posting on the tech forums now instead of the classifieds
another toyota fj40 transplant thanks to luke, mercedes, gm, toyota, extreme bends.... superturbodiesel!
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