Custom air filter systems
Custom air filter systems
I promise not to be too hard on you people with direct hot air intakes.
This is my current system. Its from a 1985 300D Kalifornia model. The filter costs $50 but thats only a small compromise since it only needs replaced once a year.
MB was genius when they designed this box. Everything fits in place with only 4 screw holes to be drilled, the clean air outlet swivels easily in the housing allowing one part number to work in two different car models, the air filter has a hair more surface area than the large one used in the 87 300D/SDL and its a true cold air intake.
Two stud holes and a screw
The fitting for the restriction gauge can be seen in the outlet bowl. The whole outlet swivels meaning the tube isn't in a fixed location/angle. The air filter moves with it so there is no sealing issue.
The restriction gauge can be seen on the far left. That allows me to get the maximum useful life out of the filter by knowing when its full instead of just guessing and changing it when it "looks dirty". Eventually I'll add a "shark gill" fender inlet similar to the 87 190D/300D 2.5, but until then the cold air inlet will be plumbed to the old A/C receiver/dryer hole.
![[Image: 190dentrf.jpg]](http://www.msdra.com/old/190dentrf.jpg)
One screw on the front bracket fit into the stock snorkel hole but I had to drill a new hole for the other screw. The other bracket uses the existing coolant bottle mount. The CCV is a crankcase depression regulator/valve from a VW Passat and 3/4" hose. It limits maximum crankcase vacuum and it works as a rudimentary oil separator. Another benefit is increased crankcase airflow capacity, important for old engines with a bit too much blowby. Turbo manufacturers want no more than 0.1psi of positive crankcase pressure so its important it not be restrictive.
The outlet tube had to be cut short due to how low my turbo sits. The filtered air tube is ABS pipe from a local hardware store. One of these days I'll make a nice aluminum tube to replace it.
So far I'm very happy. Its not as free flowing as my old GM filter with the 3" inlet tube but its (finally!) a true cold air intake that isn't sitting over the hot turbo and breaking mounts.
[attachment=240]
ForcedInduction
02-23-2009, 07:08 PM
#1
Lets show off what we have for modified air filtration and/or crankcase ventilation.
I promise not to be too hard on you people with direct hot air intakes.
This is my current system. Its from a 1985 300D Kalifornia model. The filter costs $50 but thats only a small compromise since it only needs replaced once a year.
MB was genius when they designed this box. Everything fits in place with only 4 screw holes to be drilled, the clean air outlet swivels easily in the housing allowing one part number to work in two different car models, the air filter has a hair more surface area than the large one used in the 87 300D/SDL and its a true cold air intake.
Two stud holes and a screw
The fitting for the restriction gauge can be seen in the outlet bowl. The whole outlet swivels meaning the tube isn't in a fixed location/angle. The air filter moves with it so there is no sealing issue.
The restriction gauge can be seen on the far left. That allows me to get the maximum useful life out of the filter by knowing when its full instead of just guessing and changing it when it "looks dirty". Eventually I'll add a "shark gill" fender inlet similar to the 87 190D/300D 2.5, but until then the cold air inlet will be plumbed to the old A/C receiver/dryer hole.
One screw on the front bracket fit into the stock snorkel hole but I had to drill a new hole for the other screw. The other bracket uses the existing coolant bottle mount. The CCV is a crankcase depression regulator/valve from a VW Passat and 3/4" hose. It limits maximum crankcase vacuum and it works as a rudimentary oil separator. Another benefit is increased crankcase airflow capacity, important for old engines with a bit too much blowby. Turbo manufacturers want no more than 0.1psi of positive crankcase pressure so its important it not be restrictive.
The outlet tube had to be cut short due to how low my turbo sits. The filtered air tube is ABS pipe from a local hardware store. One of these days I'll make a nice aluminum tube to replace it.
So far I'm very happy. Its not as free flowing as my old GM filter with the 3" inlet tube but its (finally!) a true cold air intake that isn't sitting over the hot turbo and breaking mounts.
[attachment=240]
ForcedInduction
02-24-2009, 03:10 PM
#4
Talk to DeliveryValve over at MShop, he offered me the one from his 300SD. I didn't know at the time that the W123/W126 parts were identical so I got mine from JordaanDMC-12 who pulled it from the junkyard.
DeliveryValve
02-25-2009, 02:26 PM #5Nice work. I am going back and forth of cramming in a 603 setup or using the other Cali box I have. I got two boxes in my stash. Not as nice as yours both have surface rust on them... Unless you repainted them.
What do you think about putting an air filter of some sort in the space conventionally occupied by the battery? On the wagon the SLS tank is a little hard to work around, and the battery could be moved elsewhere. I would think an insulated partition would have to be constructed to keep the heat from the turbine and downpipe away, but there is cold air readily available from the fender, and its a dry spot.
GREASY_BEAST
02-27-2009, 10:52 AM #7Hey guys,
What do you think about putting an air filter of some sort in the space conventionally occupied by the battery? On the wagon the SLS tank is a little hard to work around, and the battery could be moved elsewhere. I would think an insulated partition would have to be constructed to keep the heat from the turbine and downpipe away, but there is cold air readily available from the fender, and its a dry spot.
You can also get the SLS tank brackets/hoses from an 85 to move the tank to the drivers side.
ForcedInduction
02-27-2009, 04:01 PM
#8
Thats what I'm planning on doing with my next car.
You can also get the SLS tank brackets/hoses from an 85 to move the tank to the drivers side.
(02-27-2009, 04:01 PM)ForcedInduction You can also get the SLS tank brackets/hoses from an 85 to move the tank to the drivers side.
I didn't think about that... Seems like a major pain but I guess so is moving the battery..
GREASY_BEAST
02-27-2009, 09:50 PM #9(02-27-2009, 04:01 PM)ForcedInduction You can also get the SLS tank brackets/hoses from an 85 to move the tank to the drivers side.
I didn't think about that... Seems like a major pain but I guess so is moving the battery..
Next in line is a PowerCore filter from a 2008 Ford F350 with the 6.4L powerstroke. I'm hoping it will fit between the headlight and fender well better than the 6.0L powerstroke filter/housing and the H2 hummer housing (both use powercore filters).
The H2 housing comes very close to fitting, with some modification, but it would also require complete removal to change a filter.
ForcedInduction
09-09-2009, 11:20 AM
#10
This is the current system on my 300D. Its a Fram 8038, used on several Chevy pickup applications. 4" tube from the filter mouth to the 2.5" turbo inlet using ABS pipe. Even a year old it only shows 12"h2o at full power.
Next in line is a PowerCore filter from a 2008 Ford F350 with the 6.4L powerstroke. I'm hoping it will fit between the headlight and fender well better than the 6.0L powerstroke filter/housing and the H2 hummer housing (both use powercore filters).
The H2 housing comes very close to fitting, with some modification, but it would also require complete removal to change a filter.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
I tried out the Jaguar filter and so far it is too small. I will try opening the intake a bit more and see if that is suitable.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
jankjerbye
10-01-2009, 08:35 AM #12Hmm would a relocation of the intake-box give any noticable advantages on an naturally aspirated engine? Colder air=more air pr. intake cycle=better filling??
![[Image: IMG_3407-2.jpg]](http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b59/triple-d-racing/79%20Diesel/IMG_3407-2.jpg)
Also made a new puke tank, but haven't gotten pics yet.
'78 300D, OM617.912: 4spd manual, TB03 at 10PSI, 26*BTDC, DV's turned, HVAC, emissions system removed, e-fan, short ram, 3" downpipe to straight exhaust, W126 Bendix brakes, MR2 Spyder seats. 2890lbs
Foglight removed for shortram 3".
Also made a new puke tank, but haven't gotten pics yet.
'78 300D, OM617.912: 4spd manual, TB03 at 10PSI, 26*BTDC, DV's turned, HVAC, emissions system removed, e-fan, short ram, 3" downpipe to straight exhaust, W126 Bendix brakes, MR2 Spyder seats. 2890lbs
1979 450SEL 6.9 - stock
1960 220SE
111 tube chassis car/undergoing full restoration. Body work in progress. Merging with a 1996 S500 (119 engine, 722.6 trans, and both subframes)
2005 S55 AMG - stock
1999 SLK230 Kompressor - stock
2006 SLK55 AMG - stock
still working on a better air filter setup to grap some ambient air instead of engine heat, the breather is just a puke tube running right in front of the air filter (not shown in these pictures). But as most of our cars are this is a WORK IN PROGRESS.
1979 450SEL 6.9 - stock
1960 220SE
111 tube chassis car/undergoing full restoration. Body work in progress. Merging with a 1996 S500 (119 engine, 722.6 trans, and both subframes)
2005 S55 AMG - stock
1999 SLK230 Kompressor - stock
2006 SLK55 AMG - stock
![[Image: DSC_3965.jpg]](http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h197/1LOWDIESEL/benzito/DSC_3965.jpg)
![[Image: DSC_3959.jpg]](http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h197/1LOWDIESEL/benzito/DSC_3959.jpg)
![[Image: DSC_3958.jpg]](http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h197/1LOWDIESEL/benzito/DSC_3958.jpg)
ForcedInduction
10-15-2009, 05:05 PM
#17
I don't see a filter, and your oil return tube is open to collect water and dirt.
that is an old pic actually. i have an Airaid filter on it now and that return is plugged now. the egr now has been fully blocked and sports a boost gauge port now
1lowdiesel
10-15-2009, 05:19 PM #18ahh you don't need no stinkin filter lol..
that is an old pic actually. i have an Airaid filter on it now and that return is plugged now. the egr now has been fully blocked and sports a boost gauge port now
(10-15-2009, 05:19 PM)1lowdiesel ahh you don't need no stinkin filter lol..
that is an old pic actually. i have an Airaid filter on it now and that return is plugged now. the egr now has been fully blocked and sports a boost gauge port now
So where's a picture of this setup?
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
10-16-2009, 05:15 PM #19(10-15-2009, 05:19 PM)1lowdiesel ahh you don't need no stinkin filter lol..
that is an old pic actually. i have an Airaid filter on it now and that return is plugged now. the egr now has been fully blocked and sports a boost gauge port now
So where's a picture of this setup?
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
. Here are the pictures of my setup.The crankcase ventilation involved some trial and error, but using ½ “ copper tubing connected to the original openings seamed to be the best choice. Using a tee in the tubing to connect to a PVC hose to the air filter has not dumped too much oil into the air flow (at least not any more than the original filter did).
Budget_Builder
10-19-2009, 08:00 PM #20This is my first diesel, first turbo, first Mercedes and my first post on this site. I wanted to simplify the air filter system on mine, and wanted to get the air filter off of the top of the turbo and wanted to start getting better performance. Well 2 out of 3 is not bad . Here are the pictures of my setup.
The crankcase ventilation involved some trial and error, but using ½ “ copper tubing connected to the original openings seamed to be the best choice. Using a tee in the tubing to connect to a PVC hose to the air filter has not dumped too much oil into the air flow (at least not any more than the original filter did).
The other one I saw look the same I think.....this looks store bought not fabbed.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
04-05-2012, 03:14 PM #21I have seen this separator on a few cars now, FI and maybe rudolf? Wondering where I can get one like that?
The other one I saw look the same I think.....this looks store bought not fabbed.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
Gone but not forgotten: two W123 sedans and two W124 wagons.
W124 1987 300TD wagon, for sale, $1000 (some assembly required).
JustPassinThru
04-05-2012, 03:25 PM #22Some 240D's had them.
Gone but not forgotten: two W123 sedans and two W124 wagons.
W124 1987 300TD wagon, for sale, $1000 (some assembly required).
usually it mount's on a wall after a compressor before all of you expensive air tools
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
04-05-2012, 04:35 PM #23That's an air line water separator for a shops compressed air system!
usually it mount's on a wall after a compressor before all of you expensive air tools
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
(04-05-2012, 04:35 PM)willbhere4u That's an air line water separator for a shops compressed air system!
usually it mount's on a wall after a compressor before all of you expensive air tools
I thought it was something like that, looked in a harbor freight near me and they didn't have that in their air compressor tool section. Guess i will do some more hunting.
I looked up the 240d ones too. They look a bit cumbersome.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
04-05-2012, 05:10 PM #24(04-05-2012, 04:35 PM)willbhere4u That's an air line water separator for a shops compressed air system!
usually it mount's on a wall after a compressor before all of you expensive air tools
I thought it was something like that, looked in a harbor freight near me and they didn't have that in their air compressor tool section. Guess i will do some more hunting.
I looked up the 240d ones too. They look a bit cumbersome.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
04-09-2012, 03:03 AM #25I now have the one from Rudolf.
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
04-09-2012, 07:21 AM #26Saw something in napa parts yesterday. Pretty but 70$ nope
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
(04-09-2012, 06:27 PM)aaa I've seen them for $15 at Home Depot.
I guess i have to go there and check. Tried a local true value hardware store today and prices were 60-150. Ugh.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
04-09-2012, 09:04 PM #28(04-09-2012, 06:27 PM)aaa I've seen them for $15 at Home Depot.
I guess i have to go there and check. Tried a local true value hardware store today and prices were 60-150. Ugh.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
![[Image: IMG_0004.jpg]](http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e16/me_tu05/4runner/IMG_0004.jpg)
Back on track I got one of those air compressor filters from lowes for 20$
http://www.lowes.com/pd_221014-47120-SGY...&facetInfo=
Any idea on why the cost varies so much on these? I see this is not ANSI certified, not worried about that. Can the quality be that much different?
Still cant decide whether or not to just vent to the atmosphere.....any input on that?
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
04-10-2012, 02:19 PM #30Well that's a fun looking valve cover. To go along with the fram filter those are my high school colors. Go Huskies 2002.
Back on track I got one of those air compressor filters from lowes for 20$
http://www.lowes.com/pd_221014-47120-SGY...&facetInfo=
Any idea on why the cost varies so much on these? I see this is not ANSI certified, not worried about that. Can the quality be that much different?
Still cant decide whether or not to just vent to the atmosphere.....any input on that?
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
I am sure its unrelated but i think my turbo died today
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
04-11-2012, 05:16 PM #31Shit i put it in and my car started smoking like crazy. Big smoke. I took it out and still smokes a lot worse. Grey
I am sure its unrelated but i think my turbo died today
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
04-12-2012, 08:29 AM #32I vented to atmosphere for a while, you end up with a nice light oily coating under the car :p
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
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