fuel /EGR
fuel /EGR
I purchased a 92 300d about 9 mos ago.It now has 210,500 miles on it .Things have been going pretty good so far, except for a few problems. So here are a couple questions.
EGR-How can i delete this EGR? Can i just unplug the vacuum line and cap it off? I am aware that it is against the law but I really dont think I will have any problems. There are no vehicle inspections in SC.
Bio fuel- I have replaced all rubber fuel lines on the car(old ones were shot),except the clear ones by the IP, is there anything else I need to change or update if I run a few tanks of bio in it. Not going to be a regular thing but it would be nice to be able too.
Fuel water separator- Anyone have any recommendations for one?
I know i really shouldn't need one but I would feel better with one.
Climate control-Why does hot air constantly blow on my feet?! Not so bad in the winter but in the summer not so fun. Plus it cancels out the AC.
Thanks for any input.
Greetings to all. New to the forum here.
I purchased a 92 300d about 9 mos ago.It now has 210,500 miles on it .Things have been going pretty good so far, except for a few problems. So here are a couple questions.
EGR-How can i delete this EGR? Can i just unplug the vacuum line and cap it off? I am aware that it is against the law but I really dont think I will have any problems. There are no vehicle inspections in SC.
Bio fuel- I have replaced all rubber fuel lines on the car(old ones were shot),except the clear ones by the IP, is there anything else I need to change or update if I run a few tanks of bio in it. Not going to be a regular thing but it would be nice to be able too.
Fuel water separator- Anyone have any recommendations for one?
I know i really shouldn't need one but I would feel better with one.
Climate control-Why does hot air constantly blow on my feet?! Not so bad in the winter but in the summer not so fun. Plus it cancels out the AC.
Thanks for any input.
As for the climate control either your interior temperature sensor is toast or the whole pushbutton brain is toast. Or less likely both the heater valve stuck open and the bottom vents stuck open.
Properly functioning it pumps out hot air to the feet when it's cold and switches to the center vents when warm.
Hmm, the 92s did have that annoying computer system.. I don't think it was smart enough at that point to know you blocked it off. Try it, and if you suddenly lose turbo boost then you've been computered. That's also bypassable by switching away from the computer-controlled wastegate.
As for the climate control either your interior temperature sensor is toast or the whole pushbutton brain is toast. Or less likely both the heater valve stuck open and the bottom vents stuck open.
Properly functioning it pumps out hot air to the feet when it's cold and switches to the center vents when warm.
I'm not sure on the '92. On earlier cars you just put a BB in the vacuum line, no more EGR and it looks stock. The '92 has some computer control of boost, but I don't think that it senses EGR like the '95s do. Block it and find out.
Bio fuel. If you're talking about commercial biodiesel, nothing really. Good home-brew, still nothing. However: The tank could have some crud that will be dissolved / loosened by the solvent in the bio, and this will then lead to frequent filter changes until it clears. Also, if the delivery valve seals on the injection pump haven't been changed, it is likely that the solvent will cause them to leak eventually, and the O-ring in the fuel heater.
Fuel water separator. The main filter already has a fuel/water separator function, for most situations it is adequate. If you're getting some really bad fuel then you might consider something like a small Racor.
Agreed with AAA on the heater (see he beat me to the post button).
'87 300TDT "Pandora"
Garrett T-30 .55 @ 18.5psi, .970 IP @ 13.5ATDC turned up, #22 head with oblique injection, 4-puck brakes, 215 Michelins on 16x8" Bellos, updates etc.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RZCI0BTWKx8
EGR:
I'm not sure on the '92. On earlier cars you just put a BB in the vacuum line, no more EGR and it looks stock. The '92 has some computer control of boost, but I don't think that it senses EGR like the '95s do. Block it and find out.
Bio fuel. If you're talking about commercial biodiesel, nothing really. Good home-brew, still nothing. However: The tank could have some crud that will be dissolved / loosened by the solvent in the bio, and this will then lead to frequent filter changes until it clears. Also, if the delivery valve seals on the injection pump haven't been changed, it is likely that the solvent will cause them to leak eventually, and the O-ring in the fuel heater.
Fuel water separator. The main filter already has a fuel/water separator function, for most situations it is adequate. If you're getting some really bad fuel then you might consider something like a small Racor.
Agreed with AAA on the heater (see he beat me to the post button).
'87 300TDT "Pandora"
Garrett T-30 .55 @ 18.5psi, .970 IP @ 13.5ATDC turned up, #22 head with oblique injection, 4-puck brakes, 215 Michelins on 16x8" Bellos, updates etc.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RZCI0BTWKx8
As far as the delivery valve seals, and o ring in the heater go ,where is a good place to purchase them?
Thank you.Sounds good. How would i get away from a comp controlled waste gate? I have seen where someone ran the waste gate vacuum(control) line to just after the the turbo. Is this correct? Should i block off the governor as well( the butterfly after the turbo but before the egr)?at least thats what I believe its called.
As far as the delivery valve seals, and o ring in the heater go ,where is a good place to purchase them?
I've got a '93 300D. It has some similar problems to yours. The first thing that I suggest is, do a google search for "Wastegate actuator swap for OM602.962" you should find a thread at another site by gsxr that's 15 pages. It's long but it has the information that you need to make your turbo pressure controlled instead of vacuum controlled by the computer. You need to change the waste gate actuator. It's way better knowing you can pull out into traffic with consistent results when applying the accelerator.
I did one thing a little different from what gsxr did in his thread. He ran a die down the threads of the actuator shaft and shortened it to make it the right length. I just put spacers between the bracket and the actuator instead of modifying the shaft.
***********************************************
1993 300D 2.5L turbo. W124.128 2.5L 602.962
1991 350SD W126.134 Transplanted a 3.0L 603.961 into it.
Hi, I've been reading here for a while but just haven't posted yet. Just really busy with barely enough time to read the site let alone time to post. Great site by the way.
I've got a '93 300D. It has some similar problems to yours. The first thing that I suggest is, do a google search for "Wastegate actuator swap for OM602.962" you should find a thread at another site by gsxr that's 15 pages. It's long but it has the information that you need to make your turbo pressure controlled instead of vacuum controlled by the computer. You need to change the waste gate actuator. It's way better knowing you can pull out into traffic with consistent results when applying the accelerator.
I did one thing a little different from what gsxr did in his thread. He ran a die down the threads of the actuator shaft and shortened it to make it the right length. I just put spacers between the bracket and the actuator instead of modifying the shaft.
***********************************************
1993 300D 2.5L turbo. W124.128 2.5L 602.962
1991 350SD W126.134 Transplanted a 3.0L 603.961 into it.
I can get one degree of accuracy consistently using this method, sometimes 1/2 a degree.
But the proper, and always accurate method is the factory prescribed 2mm valve lift outlined in the service manual.
totaldisaster
04-24-2011, 12:55 AM #7One quick 'n dirty way is to line up a pair of marks on the camshaft and holders then check the crankshaft angle in relation to a timing pin. Its good enough for making sure the chain is healthy (for the most part) 4* of wear is considered the limit probably for the sake of efficiency.
I can get one degree of accuracy consistently using this method, sometimes 1/2 a degree.
But the proper, and always accurate method is the factory prescribed 2mm valve lift outlined in the service manual.
Glow plug issue- this just started yesterday. Turn the key on and no glow plug light, but when I start the engine it comes on for 30 maybe 40 sec then shuts off. It does not appear that the plugs are working when light comes on.I say this because usually the engine runs very smooth when plugs are hot. There is definitely a difference when the plugs cool off, then smooths out when engine gets up to temp. I have not had the chance to check with a meter or listened for the relay.Weather has been nice. So she started ok. I will check when I have some time, hopefully this weekend as tomorrow is the last day of school! Any thoughts?
Ok, so I unplugged the vac lines for the EGR and the butterfly valve and lost turbo. I guess it is smarter enough to know. So I will opt for the pressure control waste gate setup.
Glow plug issue- this just started yesterday. Turn the key on and no glow plug light, but when I start the engine it comes on for 30 maybe 40 sec then shuts off. It does not appear that the plugs are working when light comes on.I say this because usually the engine runs very smooth when plugs are hot. There is definitely a difference when the plugs cool off, then smooths out when engine gets up to temp. I have not had the chance to check with a meter or listened for the relay.Weather has been nice. So she started ok. I will check when I have some time, hopefully this weekend as tomorrow is the last day of school! Any thoughts?
1 Guest(s)
1 Guest(s)