STD Tuning Engine Are there any oil feed/supply line upgrades for our 300Ds?

Are there any oil feed/supply line upgrades for our 300Ds?

Are there any oil feed/supply line upgrades for our 300Ds?

 
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mr_manny
Diesel Offroad Club

91
04-20-2011, 08:46 AM #1
The shop accidentally tossed my TURBO oil-feed line = upgrade opportunity? :p

Wondering If I have any options, other then stock...

found the following example which is NOT om617 specific:

[Image: oilFEED.jpg]
This post was last modified: 04-20-2011, 09:25 AM by mr_manny.

Toyota fj40 Landcruiser with a Mercedes om617 3.0L turbo diesel Smile
mr_manny
04-20-2011, 08:46 AM #1

The shop accidentally tossed my TURBO oil-feed line = upgrade opportunity? :p

Wondering If I have any options, other then stock...

found the following example which is NOT om617 specific:

[Image: oilFEED.jpg]


Toyota fj40 Landcruiser with a Mercedes om617 3.0L turbo diesel Smile

Captain America
Boostin' & Roostin'

2,221
04-20-2011, 10:09 AM #2
If there was a kit that would be cool, otherwise I have entertained the thought, just don't know what thread the banjo bolt is on the back of the IP


1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag

AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....

Captain America
04-20-2011, 10:09 AM #2

If there was a kit that would be cool, otherwise I have entertained the thought, just don't know what thread the banjo bolt is on the back of the IP



1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag

AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....

totaldisaster
lightly modded OM606

211
04-20-2011, 11:00 AM #3
There is an oil port upgrade for the head.

Some independent race-minded tweaker wrote up a very technical paper that claimed the head was poorly supplied with oil at certain RPMs.

They modified some bores in the head and leading up to the head that increased oil flow.

You would have to do some searching, on the general interwebs to find it. Its kinda hard to find.
totaldisaster
04-20-2011, 11:00 AM #3

There is an oil port upgrade for the head.

Some independent race-minded tweaker wrote up a very technical paper that claimed the head was poorly supplied with oil at certain RPMs.

They modified some bores in the head and leading up to the head that increased oil flow.

You would have to do some searching, on the general interwebs to find it. Its kinda hard to find.

Imaginos
In disguise

66
04-20-2011, 11:19 AM #4
(04-20-2011, 10:09 AM)Captain America just don't know what thread the banjo bolt is on the back of the IP

If it's a metric screw, measure thread outside diameter, and then measure how much mm the screw advances with one full turn of a screw.
Imaginos
04-20-2011, 11:19 AM #4

(04-20-2011, 10:09 AM)Captain America just don't know what thread the banjo bolt is on the back of the IP

If it's a metric screw, measure thread outside diameter, and then measure how much mm the screw advances with one full turn of a screw.

Biohazard
Smokin like a champ!

376
04-20-2011, 11:29 AM #5
On mine, I used the stock turbo feed location at the back of the oil pump housing. It is a 14x1.5 thread, I used a banjo bolt and line similar to the pic in the OP.

82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.

84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine! 
Biohazard
04-20-2011, 11:29 AM #5

On mine, I used the stock turbo feed location at the back of the oil pump housing. It is a 14x1.5 thread, I used a banjo bolt and line similar to the pic in the OP.


82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.

84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine! 

mr_manny
Diesel Offroad Club

91
05-18-2011, 08:23 AM #6
shop picked one up from the yard, and brazed an end on it:

[Image: oilFEED01.jpg]


nothing fancy, but should work nicely.

[Image: oilFEED03.jpg]
This post was last modified: 05-18-2011, 11:42 AM by mr_manny.

Toyota fj40 Landcruiser with a Mercedes om617 3.0L turbo diesel Smile
mr_manny
05-18-2011, 08:23 AM #6

shop picked one up from the yard, and brazed an end on it:

[Image: oilFEED01.jpg]


nothing fancy, but should work nicely.

[Image: oilFEED03.jpg]


Toyota fj40 Landcruiser with a Mercedes om617 3.0L turbo diesel Smile

tomnik
Holset

587
05-22-2011, 03:02 AM #7
I bet this will fail because of vibrations.
At least fix it to the intake manifold after shortening it.

Better try to get the type of hose shown in post 1#.

Tom
tomnik
05-22-2011, 03:02 AM #7

I bet this will fail because of vibrations.
At least fix it to the intake manifold after shortening it.

Better try to get the type of hose shown in post 1#.

Tom

mr_manny
Diesel Offroad Club

91
05-22-2011, 08:52 AM #8
(05-22-2011, 03:02 AM)tomnik I bet this will fail because of vibrations.
At least fix it to the intake manifold after shortening it.

Better try to get the type of hose shown in post 1#.

Tom

hose is attached at the back of the valve cover, and at another point on the tranny adapter before going into the remote oil-filter head.

Will definitely may attention to this...when we finally start it :p

thanks for the tip,
manny

Toyota fj40 Landcruiser with a Mercedes om617 3.0L turbo diesel Smile
mr_manny
05-22-2011, 08:52 AM #8

(05-22-2011, 03:02 AM)tomnik I bet this will fail because of vibrations.
At least fix it to the intake manifold after shortening it.

Better try to get the type of hose shown in post 1#.

Tom

hose is attached at the back of the valve cover, and at another point on the tranny adapter before going into the remote oil-filter head.

Will definitely may attention to this...when we finally start it :p

thanks for the tip,
manny


Toyota fj40 Landcruiser with a Mercedes om617 3.0L turbo diesel Smile

mr_manny
Diesel Offroad Club

91
05-28-2011, 11:56 AM #9
found the following from another journal-bearing turbo manufacturer, and was wondering if anyone had any oil-feed pressure data associated with our stock turbos?

thanks,
manny


Holset permits oil return pipes to decline at an overall angle of not less than 30 degrees below horizontal. All turbocharger applications require a pipe of internal diameter greater than 19 mm which has integrated connectors. To ensure oil returns into the engine under all operating conditions, the return connection into the engine sump must not be submerged and the outlet flange of the turbocharger must be 50 mm above the maximum oil level of the engine sump pan. Crankcase pressure should be limited ideally to 0.8 kPa (0.12 lbf/in2) but 1.4 kPa (0.20 lbf/in2) can be accepted by reference to Holset.

Oil pressure of 150 kPa (20 lbf/in2) must show at the oil inlet within 3 - 4 seconds of engine firing to prevent damage to turbocharger bearing system. A flexible supply pipe is recommended.

The minimum oil pressure when the engine is on load must be 210 kPa (30 lbf/in2). Maximum permissible operating pressure is 500 kPa (72 lbf/in2) although 600 kPa (88 lbf/in2) is permitted during cold start up. Under idling conditions pressure should not fall below 70 kPa (10 lbf/in2).

Recommended oil flows for the turbochargers are 2 litre/min at idle and 3 litre/min above maximumtorque speed.

Toyota fj40 Landcruiser with a Mercedes om617 3.0L turbo diesel Smile
mr_manny
05-28-2011, 11:56 AM #9

found the following from another journal-bearing turbo manufacturer, and was wondering if anyone had any oil-feed pressure data associated with our stock turbos?

thanks,
manny


Holset permits oil return pipes to decline at an overall angle of not less than 30 degrees below horizontal. All turbocharger applications require a pipe of internal diameter greater than 19 mm which has integrated connectors. To ensure oil returns into the engine under all operating conditions, the return connection into the engine sump must not be submerged and the outlet flange of the turbocharger must be 50 mm above the maximum oil level of the engine sump pan. Crankcase pressure should be limited ideally to 0.8 kPa (0.12 lbf/in2) but 1.4 kPa (0.20 lbf/in2) can be accepted by reference to Holset.

Oil pressure of 150 kPa (20 lbf/in2) must show at the oil inlet within 3 - 4 seconds of engine firing to prevent damage to turbocharger bearing system. A flexible supply pipe is recommended.

The minimum oil pressure when the engine is on load must be 210 kPa (30 lbf/in2). Maximum permissible operating pressure is 500 kPa (72 lbf/in2) although 600 kPa (88 lbf/in2) is permitted during cold start up. Under idling conditions pressure should not fall below 70 kPa (10 lbf/in2).

Recommended oil flows for the turbochargers are 2 litre/min at idle and 3 litre/min above maximumtorque speed.


Toyota fj40 Landcruiser with a Mercedes om617 3.0L turbo diesel Smile

lgreeley83
Mr. Rumbles

775
03-10-2013, 02:14 AM #10
Anyone wanna fab me something up like post #1. I know i could have a shop make me one in the.states when I get home pretty easily, just stockpiling stuff.:-) when I did my w115 manifold install I had to bend the crap out of the original line.

" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."

lgreeley83
03-10-2013, 02:14 AM #10

Anyone wanna fab me something up like post #1. I know i could have a shop make me one in the.states when I get home pretty easily, just stockpiling stuff.:-) when I did my w115 manifold install I had to bend the crap out of the original line.


" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."

R-3350
Dreaming of compounds

182
07-21-2016, 11:30 AM #11
quick question how long was the soft line between the filter housing and the brazed on end by the turbo? or another way to put it is how long of a line do you need to go from the oil filter housing to the turbo?
R-3350
07-21-2016, 11:30 AM #11

quick question how long was the soft line between the filter housing and the brazed on end by the turbo? or another way to put it is how long of a line do you need to go from the oil filter housing to the turbo?

Evenglass
GT2256V

149
07-21-2016, 06:18 PM #12
Remove the plate from the oil filter housing and drill out metric threads with 9/16" bit and tap with 3/8" NPT. Buy 3/8" to 4an 90* fitting and run it to the turbo. Buy a steel weld on male 4an fitting and braze or TIG weld it to existing flange. I'd post pictures of this but I don't know how to here. They are here on page 32 of my build.http://www.dieselbombers.com/diesel-engine-conversions/118649-om617-96-jeep-cherokee-build-thread-32.html
Evenglass
07-21-2016, 06:18 PM #12

Remove the plate from the oil filter housing and drill out metric threads with 9/16" bit and tap with 3/8" NPT. Buy 3/8" to 4an 90* fitting and run it to the turbo. Buy a steel weld on male 4an fitting and braze or TIG weld it to existing flange. I'd post pictures of this but I don't know how to here. They are here on page 32 of my build.http://www.dieselbombers.com/diesel-engine-conversions/118649-om617-96-jeep-cherokee-build-thread-32.html

R-3350
Dreaming of compounds

182
07-21-2016, 07:59 PM #13
i have been busy lately working on another project so i haven't had time to go measure but the stock oil line on the filter side is a m14x1.5 which i have a banjo fitting to an4 adapter for sitting around. i was wondering how long of a hose to fabricate between that and the turbo oil feed. i am installing a HE221W which is in the same location and has an an4 adapter.
R-3350
07-21-2016, 07:59 PM #13

i have been busy lately working on another project so i haven't had time to go measure but the stock oil line on the filter side is a m14x1.5 which i have a banjo fitting to an4 adapter for sitting around. i was wondering how long of a hose to fabricate between that and the turbo oil feed. i am installing a HE221W which is in the same location and has an an4 adapter.

SurfRodder
Jackass Extraordinaire

611
07-25-2016, 02:27 PM #14
Really old thread...BUT

When I make custom lines like this, I have used a coat hanger or heavy tie/bailing wire to route where I intend to put the hose and make sure it will fit thru all brackets, etc. Then once it is removed it gets straightened out and measured. Be sure to include the length added by whatever fittings you are using (those banjo style ones tend to be a bit long) and subtract that from the above measurement to get the final assembled length.

This method is nice as you can use the banjo bolt to secure one sire and the loop of that one gives you a reference for the banjo fitting as well.

W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **

S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **

OBK# 62
SurfRodder
07-25-2016, 02:27 PM #14

Really old thread...BUT

When I make custom lines like this, I have used a coat hanger or heavy tie/bailing wire to route where I intend to put the hose and make sure it will fit thru all brackets, etc. Then once it is removed it gets straightened out and measured. Be sure to include the length added by whatever fittings you are using (those banjo style ones tend to be a bit long) and subtract that from the above measurement to get the final assembled length.

This method is nice as you can use the banjo bolt to secure one sire and the loop of that one gives you a reference for the banjo fitting as well.


W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **

S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **

OBK# 62

 
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