W115 300D intake manifold upgrade
W115 300D intake manifold upgrade
02-10-2009, 04:23 PM
#1
I had been using a Cummins intake air heater but it did absolutely diddly squat as a starting aid in sub-zero temperatures. The stock mouth is a metric diameter so you'll have a tiny bit of trouble finding anything to clamp onto it securely. I ended up finding a 2.5" aluminum mouth and welded it to the manifold. I also modified my GT2256V compressor housing with a 2" aluminum tube at a vertical angle to simplify tubing requirements since I don't use an intercooler (anymore).
So far its working great. No leaks, no cracks, it looks much better, it spools a tad quicker and it runs 1psi lower on the highway @70mph. The only down side is the turbo will surge a tiny bit at 5psi under 1500rpm, above that it whistles really nice.
This post was last modified: 04-27-2009, 03:58 AM by ForcedInduction.
ForcedInduction
02-10-2009, 04:23 PM
#1
The W115 manifold is a great upgrade. It gets the inlet up higher, it adds runners for better torque and volumetric efficiency, it looks cool and its bolt-on.
I had been using a Cummins intake air heater but it did absolutely diddly squat as a starting aid in sub-zero temperatures. The stock mouth is a metric diameter so you'll have a tiny bit of trouble finding anything to clamp onto it securely. I ended up finding a 2.5" aluminum mouth and welded it to the manifold. I also modified my GT2256V compressor housing with a 2" aluminum tube at a vertical angle to simplify tubing requirements since I don't use an intercooler (anymore).
So far its working great. No leaks, no cracks, it looks much better, it spools a tad quicker and it runs 1psi lower on the highway @70mph. The only down side is the turbo will surge a tiny bit at 5psi under 1500rpm, above that it whistles really nice.
02-12-2009, 01:31 AM
#3
Yes, you'll have to plug the crankcase vent and vacuum pump vent holes and tap a hole for the ALDA/boost gauge line.
ForcedInduction
02-12-2009, 01:31 AM
#3
The W126 should handle it. I think I've seen one before.
Yes, you'll have to plug the crankcase vent and vacuum pump vent holes and tap a hole for the ALDA/boost gauge line.
ForcedInduction
02-12-2009, 04:21 AM
#5
Just the one I replaced. Its staying here though, for a future car project.
02-14-2009, 09:20 AM
#6
Whats the big square box on the intake of the intake manifold that you removed?
Are you now bypassing the intercooler?
Where did you get that air filter? It looks like the Napa 6637 filter I have on my 7.3L ford.
Is that a oil separator sitting on top of the breather? Draining right back into the head? Where did you find that and how has it been working?
Whats the 3/8 line tapped into the turbo outlet for?
I think that's it, but your responses will likely prompt a whole new set of questions.
Benzbeliever
02-14-2009, 09:20 AM #6I got a few questions on those pictures Forced. I haven't been following your progress lately so I'm a little behind.
Whats the big square box on the intake of the intake manifold that you removed?
Are you now bypassing the intercooler?
Where did you get that air filter? It looks like the Napa 6637 filter I have on my 7.3L ford.
Is that a oil separator sitting on top of the breather? Draining right back into the head? Where did you find that and how has it been working?
Whats the 3/8 line tapped into the turbo outlet for?
I think that's it, but your responses will likely prompt a whole new set of questions.
02-14-2009, 10:27 AM
#7
Intercoolers gone because you don't push it enough to need one and wanted to get rid of the turbo lag associated with it.
Fram 8038 air filter w/3" port. The Napa 6637 has a 4" port and is probly a little bigger(I've been thinking about putting one in the benz).
Still curious about the others.
And the baldwin fuel filter mod
Benzbeliever
02-14-2009, 10:27 AM #7OK, checked out your car profile.
Intercoolers gone because you don't push it enough to need one and wanted to get rid of the turbo lag associated with it.
Fram 8038 air filter w/3" port. The Napa 6637 has a 4" port and is probly a little bigger(I've been thinking about putting one in the benz).
Still curious about the others.
And the baldwin fuel filter mod
02-14-2009, 04:18 PM
#8
(02-14-2009, 09:20 AM)Benzbeliever Whats the big square box on the intake of the intake manifold that you removed?That was an air intake heater from a 5.9L Cummins. It wasn't worth the space it occupied so I got rid of it.
Quote:Is that a oil separator sitting on top of the breather? Draining right back into the head? Where did you find that and how has it been working?Its from a early 90's VW. Its really more of a PCV valve since it limits crankcase vacuum but it also helps with oil separation a bit. Not very well, but better than nothing.
Quote:Whats the 3/8 line tapped into the turbo outlet for?The vane actuator. The bottom actuator works off manifold pressure like a normal wastegate and the top works off vacuum.
The air filter is used on all 96-02 Chevy/GMC Pickups.
This post was last modified: 02-14-2009, 04:22 PM by ForcedInduction.
ForcedInduction
02-14-2009, 04:18 PM
#8
(02-14-2009, 09:20 AM)Benzbeliever Whats the big square box on the intake of the intake manifold that you removed?That was an air intake heater from a 5.9L Cummins. It wasn't worth the space it occupied so I got rid of it.
Quote:Is that a oil separator sitting on top of the breather? Draining right back into the head? Where did you find that and how has it been working?Its from a early 90's VW. Its really more of a PCV valve since it limits crankcase vacuum but it also helps with oil separation a bit. Not very well, but better than nothing.
Quote:Whats the 3/8 line tapped into the turbo outlet for?The vane actuator. The bottom actuator works off manifold pressure like a normal wastegate and the top works off vacuum.
The air filter is used on all 96-02 Chevy/GMC Pickups.
06-12-2010, 05:55 PM
#9
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-...0649657845
ForcedInduction
06-12-2010, 05:55 PM
#9
I wonder where this guy got his pictures?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-...0649657845
06-14-2010, 02:41 PM
#10
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
06-14-2010, 02:41 PM #10Haha that guy has a nice car. Don't be jealous of him forced!
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
06-14-2010, 04:39 PM
#11
(06-12-2010, 05:55 PM)ForcedInduction I wonder where this guy got his pictures?
That's annoying.... which is a huge understatement....
John Robbins
'05 E320 CDI - 118k - Faaaaaast!!
'87 300TD - 317k - Cracked head... but an OM606 is on the way!
'79 300SD - 295k - Bad engine = project car!
(06-12-2010, 05:55 PM)ForcedInduction I wonder where this guy got his pictures?
That's annoying.... which is a huge understatement....
John Robbins
'05 E320 CDI - 118k - Faaaaaast!!
'87 300TD - 317k - Cracked head... but an OM606 is on the way!
'79 300SD - 295k - Bad engine = project car!
06-14-2010, 08:10 PM
#12
ForcedInduction
06-14-2010, 08:10 PM
#12
If he had asked I wouldn't mind one bit. Its the not asking that annoys me.
06-15-2010, 12:48 AM
#13
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
06-15-2010, 12:48 AM #13So is the w115 manifold the best bolt on option? I was just think about how to attach silicone tubing to the stocker for an intercooler...
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
07-02-2010, 04:42 PM
#14
1983 light ivory/palomino 300d turbo
just bought this manifold and paid too much. I know longer intake runners are better than the marine type manifolds present on the 80's diesels. I wonder if the throttle response would improve that much if you gave the cylinder head, the w115 intake manifold, and exhaust manifold to a skilled technician with a flow bench.
1983 light ivory/palomino 300d turbo
07-02-2010, 04:54 PM
#15
(07-02-2010, 04:42 PM)rdirtycar just bought this manifold and paid too much. I know longer intake runners are better than the marine type manifolds present on the 80's diesels. I wonder if the throttle response would improve that much if you gave the cylinder head, the w115 intake manifold, and exhaust manifold to a skilled technician with a flow bench.
How much did you pay? I just saw one yesterday at Pick-A-Part, I didn't feel like taking it off; they go for $31.95 + fees. I did find a nifty trianlge in a euro car though!
This post was last modified: 07-02-2010, 04:55 PM by Rudolf_Diesel.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
Rudolf_Diesel
07-02-2010, 04:54 PM #15(07-02-2010, 04:42 PM)rdirtycar just bought this manifold and paid too much. I know longer intake runners are better than the marine type manifolds present on the 80's diesels. I wonder if the throttle response would improve that much if you gave the cylinder head, the w115 intake manifold, and exhaust manifold to a skilled technician with a flow bench.
How much did you pay? I just saw one yesterday at Pick-A-Part, I didn't feel like taking it off; they go for $31.95 + fees. I did find a nifty trianlge in a euro car though!
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
07-02-2010, 05:28 PM
#16
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
07-02-2010, 05:28 PM #16Rudolf! Which Pick-A-Part!?!?!??!?!?!?!?!??!??!?!?!?!?! Can I go Take it?
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
07-02-2010, 07:05 PM
#17
(07-02-2010, 05:28 PM)Captain America Rudolf! Which Pick-A-Part!?!?!??!?!?!?!?!??!??!?!?!?!?! Can I go Take it?
As of yesterday it was at the one in Monrovia off of Peck Rd. The hardest part is removing the A/C compressor to get the exhaust bolt off.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
Rudolf_Diesel
07-02-2010, 07:05 PM #17(07-02-2010, 05:28 PM)Captain America Rudolf! Which Pick-A-Part!?!?!??!?!?!?!?!??!??!?!?!?!?! Can I go Take it?
As of yesterday it was at the one in Monrovia off of Peck Rd. The hardest part is removing the A/C compressor to get the exhaust bolt off.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
07-03-2010, 08:32 PM
#18
(07-02-2010, 07:05 PM)Rudolf_Diesel ...The hardest part is removing the A/C compressor to get the exhaust bolt off.
Those damn big *ss York compressors!
.
This post was last modified: 07-03-2010, 08:33 PM by DeliveryValve.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
07-03-2010, 08:32 PM #18(07-02-2010, 07:05 PM)Rudolf_Diesel ...The hardest part is removing the A/C compressor to get the exhaust bolt off.
Those damn big *ss York compressors!
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
07-04-2010, 03:36 AM
#19
Anyone want to share what it/tools takes to get it off other that what is required to for the 300d turbo?
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
07-04-2010, 03:36 AM #19Hmmm... Well If your not claiming it then I'd like to go grab that bioootch!
Anyone want to share what it/tools takes to get it off other that what is required to for the 300d turbo?
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
07-04-2010, 08:41 AM
#20
1983 light ivory/palomino 300d turbo
I paid WAY too much. It's embarassing. I can't tell. I got a perfect specimen though. That's all that really mattered to me. There aren't many w123s in the junk yards around here. There aren't many w123s in Connecticut. Rust is a real issue here.
1983 light ivory/palomino 300d turbo
07-04-2010, 09:10 AM
#21
(07-04-2010, 08:41 AM)rdirtycar I paid WAY too much. It's embarassing. I can't tell. I got a perfect specimen though. That's all that really mattered to me. There aren't many w123s in the junk yards around here. There aren't many w123s in Connecticut. Rust is a real issue here.
Is it blue?
(07-04-2010, 03:36 AM)Captain America Hmmm... Well If your not claiming it then I'd like to go grab that bioootch!
Anyone want to share what it/tools takes to get it off other that what is required to for the 300d turbo?
First Come First Served, but you better hurry because they have a fast turn over. It is way in the back and a burgandy color, not sure what Mercedes calls that color.
As far as tools:
* 3/8" rathcet
* 3/8" x 12" and 6" extansions
* 3/8" universal
* 17mm socket & wrench
* 13mm socket & wrench
* 10mm socket & wrench
That's all I can think of, but you should take a small arangement of tools just incase.
Remove A/C bracket and move A/C compressor to the side. Remove exhaust and intake nuts, slide off manifold - it should take about 30 minutes tops.
This post was last modified: 07-04-2010, 09:20 AM by Rudolf_Diesel.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
Rudolf_Diesel
07-04-2010, 09:10 AM #21(07-04-2010, 08:41 AM)rdirtycar I paid WAY too much. It's embarassing. I can't tell. I got a perfect specimen though. That's all that really mattered to me. There aren't many w123s in the junk yards around here. There aren't many w123s in Connecticut. Rust is a real issue here.
Is it blue?
(07-04-2010, 03:36 AM)Captain America Hmmm... Well If your not claiming it then I'd like to go grab that bioootch!
Anyone want to share what it/tools takes to get it off other that what is required to for the 300d turbo?
First Come First Served, but you better hurry because they have a fast turn over. It is way in the back and a burgandy color, not sure what Mercedes calls that color.
As far as tools:
* 3/8" rathcet
* 3/8" x 12" and 6" extansions
* 3/8" universal
* 17mm socket & wrench
* 13mm socket & wrench
* 10mm socket & wrench
That's all I can think of, but you should take a small arangement of tools just incase.
Remove A/C bracket and move A/C compressor to the side. Remove exhaust and intake nuts, slide off manifold - it should take about 30 minutes tops.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
07-04-2010, 03:13 PM
#23
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
07-04-2010, 03:13 PM #23Sweet Rudolf. Thanks Man! I'll just carry that stuff in my car anyway, I'm sure there are plenty of yards between Hawthorne in LA and Riverside. Hopefully I can grab one on the way home one day. My 300 is the same color I call it plum or maroooooooooooon haha
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
07-04-2010, 04:00 PM
#24
(07-04-2010, 02:45 PM)rdirtycar no paint
I saw one advertised fro $175.00+ on ebay.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
Rudolf_Diesel
07-04-2010, 04:00 PM #24(07-04-2010, 02:45 PM)rdirtycar no paint
I saw one advertised fro $175.00+ on ebay.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
07-05-2010, 12:03 PM
#25
1983 light ivory/palomino 300d turbo
I saw one for $90 but it needed to be lapped, there were dings on one of the mating surfaces. What's a typical aftermarket long runner intake manifold sell for? There is another type of intake manifold, I guess usually listed for less, that will fit, with the intake hole on the top, but they sit lower I believe.
1983 light ivory/palomino 300d turbo
07-06-2010, 08:53 AM
#26
(07-05-2010, 12:03 PM)rdirtycar I saw one for $90 but it needed to be lapped, there were dings on one of the mating surfaces. What's a typical aftermarket long runner intake manifold sell for? There is another type of intake manifold, I guess usually listed for less, that will fit, with the intake hole on the top, but they sit lower I believe.
If you're refering to the W123 chassis 300D non-turbo manifold with the long runners and more of a 'flat' profile (non curved runners), it won't clear the turbo assy. It has the intake hole coming straight up from the middle of the plenum. I've tried it with a stock K26 turbo and with my bigger T3T4 turbo as well. No clearance from the compressor housing to the plenum or runners. My brother has one hanging off the wall in the garage. Neat looking manifold, but not going to work with the turbo. For now, it's just garage art.
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
(07-05-2010, 12:03 PM)rdirtycar I saw one for $90 but it needed to be lapped, there were dings on one of the mating surfaces. What's a typical aftermarket long runner intake manifold sell for? There is another type of intake manifold, I guess usually listed for less, that will fit, with the intake hole on the top, but they sit lower I believe.
If you're refering to the W123 chassis 300D non-turbo manifold with the long runners and more of a 'flat' profile (non curved runners), it won't clear the turbo assy. It has the intake hole coming straight up from the middle of the plenum. I've tried it with a stock K26 turbo and with my bigger T3T4 turbo as well. No clearance from the compressor housing to the plenum or runners. My brother has one hanging off the wall in the garage. Neat looking manifold, but not going to work with the turbo. For now, it's just garage art.
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
07-10-2010, 04:11 PM
#27
ForcedInduction
07-10-2010, 04:11 PM
#27
If anyone can confirm the A/C bracket will acceptably clear the turbo inlet I'd buy the bracket and compressor to make it worthwhile to get the manifold. Having a york there would make a kick-ass air compressor, much better than those annoying electric pumps on ebay.
05-28-2012, 12:50 AM
#28
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
is this mod a non-starter on an 85 california engine because of the turbocharger location, or would it only take pointing that silicone elbow a different direction?
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
05-29-2012, 11:14 PM
#29
(05-28-2012, 12:50 AM)bricktron is this mod a non-starter on an 85 california engine because of the turbocharger location, or would it only take pointing that silicone elbow a different direction?
I think the easiest thing to do would be swap both intake and exhaust manifolds.
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
05-29-2012, 11:14 PM #29(05-28-2012, 12:50 AM)bricktron is this mod a non-starter on an 85 california engine because of the turbocharger location, or would it only take pointing that silicone elbow a different direction?
I think the easiest thing to do would be swap both intake and exhaust manifolds.
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
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