installing a 5speed to a 300sd engine
installing a 5speed to a 300sd engine
I was just wondering if i could install a 1980 300sd engine in a 1981 240d 5 speed chassis by just changing the flywheel and other necessary parts onto the 300sd engine? Im sorry i don't know much about these vehicles yet im just wondering before i purchase the car. also would i have to mod the clutch at all so it doesn't slip with the extra power? Im planing on putting high grade synthetic in the trannie to protect that alitte more with all the extra power it would be getting. ill appreciate any help u guys can offer
But if it really is a 5spd car that is super rare! 99.9% of the manuals in them are 4 spd's ant the other 80% are auto!
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
12-17-2010, 11:10 PM #2It will all bolt in including the fly wheel! but the transmission will have to be moved back 4'' inches and the drive shaft will have to be shortened 4" including the shift linkage!
But if it really is a 5spd car that is super rare! 99.9% of the manuals in them are 4 spd's ant the other 80% are auto!
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
yes the quy claims its a 5 speed and i know its super rare im just mad because im going to school for diesel tech currently and im going home for my christmas break on tueseday for like a week in a half and im in a bad situation because i live in the suburbs so i have nowere to park the car if it dont get it running by the time i go back to school, my dad needs to be able to move it when the snowplows come so im iffy about buying it i wish i didnt have to shorten the linkage and drive shaft! can i ask why you would have to do that? is the 300sd longer in length than the 240d engine? or are the motor mounts located in a different location? i wanna get ahold of the car so bad i know im never gunna see one again and hes getting rid of it cheep because the 240 engine in it now blew a injection pump chain and destroyed the engine!
It makes working on the 240d extremely easy I bought one with a bad 4spd IE no reverse and 1st gear due to PO not knowing how to shift and jamming it in 2 gears at once
I removed all of the trans bolts from the top of the engine bay! and did a transmission swap in less than 2hours and was driving again!
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
12-18-2010, 01:46 PM #4The 240d 4cyl engine is in the same location as the 5cyl on the front but one cylinder short on the rear so they moved the trans forward about 4" to compensate
It makes working on the 240d extremely easy I bought one with a bad 4spd IE no reverse and 1st gear due to PO not knowing how to shift and jamming it in 2 gears at once
I removed all of the trans bolts from the top of the engine bay! and did a transmission swap in less than 2hours and was driving again!
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
ok i understand completely for some reason i thought the 240d was a 5 cyl with a smaller bore i have to study up on my facts more i just found the forum yesterday lol. do u know anyone in the chicagoland area that would like to buy that vehicle? i want it to go to good use since its so rare. well ill study up on my auto transmissions since thats what ill probly end up getting when im completely done with school. thanks for all the help
they are not fast but are still a hell of a lot of fun to drive!
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
12-18-2010, 08:48 PM #6Hell if it runs buy it and drive the piss out of it!
they are not fast but are still a hell of a lot of fun to drive!
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
the shift rods will have to be cut and shortened, measure twice, cut once. also some tweeking to the rods to get them aligned.
Use a transmission X mount from a 240D with the automatic trans. the mount is wider and uses 4 bolts to mount it to the body instead of the narrow mount used with the 240 and manual trans.
The front section of the 240 driveline will have to be shortened and rebalanced.
you might want to use the radiator from the SD. I know the later SD`s from 81 (W126) use an expansion tank. not sure of if the 80 (W116) does, or has a radiator cap on the radiator. any rate it should be larger than the 240 radiator. also the oil cooler should bolt right to it.
you might have to adapt or fiddle with the linkage to the valve cover and injection pump some.
Good time to replace the motor mounts, trans mount, oil cooler lines if they show signs of leakage. much easier to do when the engine is on the ground and out of the vehicle.
Replace the FW bolts, they are a one time use bolt. you may luck out and the clutch is new, the parts are a little pricy. at least have the FW resurfaced and new bolts.
As far as all that extra power on the transmission. 240, 67HP, SD about 125HP. being an 80SD maybe a little less. the trans can handle it.
It is more or less just plug and play.
before removing the SD engine, remove the 6 13mm bolts that hold the torque convertor to the FW. can ce accesed from under the car through the black plastic cover on the bottom of the bell housing.
Charlie
The 240D FW will bolt right up to the SD engine. match mark the auto FW and crank as it is mounted on the crank. then get the manual FW matched balanced to the auto FW. the engines as I have read, have the crank assy & FW balanced together. so you want the manual fw exactly as the auto fw is balanced. I have also read some are neutral balanced.
the shift rods will have to be cut and shortened, measure twice, cut once. also some tweeking to the rods to get them aligned.
Use a transmission X mount from a 240D with the automatic trans. the mount is wider and uses 4 bolts to mount it to the body instead of the narrow mount used with the 240 and manual trans.
The front section of the 240 driveline will have to be shortened and rebalanced.
you might want to use the radiator from the SD. I know the later SD`s from 81 (W126) use an expansion tank. not sure of if the 80 (W116) does, or has a radiator cap on the radiator. any rate it should be larger than the 240 radiator. also the oil cooler should bolt right to it.
you might have to adapt or fiddle with the linkage to the valve cover and injection pump some.
Good time to replace the motor mounts, trans mount, oil cooler lines if they show signs of leakage. much easier to do when the engine is on the ground and out of the vehicle.
Replace the FW bolts, they are a one time use bolt. you may luck out and the clutch is new, the parts are a little pricy. at least have the FW resurfaced and new bolts.
As far as all that extra power on the transmission. 240, 67HP, SD about 125HP. being an 80SD maybe a little less. the trans can handle it.
It is more or less just plug and play.
before removing the SD engine, remove the 6 13mm bolts that hold the torque convertor to the FW. can ce accesed from under the car through the black plastic cover on the bottom of the bell housing.
Charlie
(12-20-2010, 09:49 PM)charmalu The 240D FW will bolt right up to the SD engine. match mark the auto FW and crank as it is mounted on the crank. then get the manual FW matched balanced to the auto FW. the engines as I have read, have the crank assy & FW balanced together. so you want the manual fw exactly as the auto fw is balanced. I have also read some are neutral balanced.
the shift rods will have to be cut and shortened, measure twice, cut once. also some tweeking to the rods to get them aligned.
Use a transmission X mount from a 240D with the automatic trans. the mount is wider and uses 4 bolts to mount it to the body instead of the narrow mount used with the 240 and manual trans.
The front section of the 240 driveline will have to be shortened and rebalanced.
you might want to use the radiator from the SD. I know the later SD`s from 81 (W126) use an expansion tank. not sure of if the 80 (W116) does, or has a radiator cap on the radiator. any rate it should be larger than the 240 radiator. also the oil cooler should bolt right to it.
you might have to adapt or fiddle with the linkage to the valve cover and injection pump some.
Good time to replace the motor mounts, trans mount, oil cooler lines if they show signs of leakage. much easier to do when the engine is on the ground and out of the vehicle.
Replace the FW bolts, they are a one time use bolt. you may luck out and the clutch is new, the parts are a little pricy. at least have the FW resurfaced and new bolts.
As far as all that extra power on the transmission. 240, 67HP, SD about 125HP. being an 80SD maybe a little less. the trans can handle it.
It is more or less just plug and play.
before removing the SD engine, remove the 6 13mm bolts that hold the torque convertor to the FW. can ce accesed from under the car through the black plastic cover on the bottom of the bell housing.
Charlie
The 5 speed needs a diff mount than the 240 auto..
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
(12-20-2010, 09:49 PM)charmalu The 240D FW will bolt right up to the SD engine. match mark the auto FW and crank as it is mounted on the crank. then get the manual FW matched balanced to the auto FW. the engines as I have read, have the crank assy & FW balanced together. so you want the manual fw exactly as the auto fw is balanced. I have also read some are neutral balanced.
the shift rods will have to be cut and shortened, measure twice, cut once. also some tweeking to the rods to get them aligned.
Use a transmission X mount from a 240D with the automatic trans. the mount is wider and uses 4 bolts to mount it to the body instead of the narrow mount used with the 240 and manual trans.
The front section of the 240 driveline will have to be shortened and rebalanced.
you might want to use the radiator from the SD. I know the later SD`s from 81 (W126) use an expansion tank. not sure of if the 80 (W116) does, or has a radiator cap on the radiator. any rate it should be larger than the 240 radiator. also the oil cooler should bolt right to it.
you might have to adapt or fiddle with the linkage to the valve cover and injection pump some.
Good time to replace the motor mounts, trans mount, oil cooler lines if they show signs of leakage. much easier to do when the engine is on the ground and out of the vehicle.
Replace the FW bolts, they are a one time use bolt. you may luck out and the clutch is new, the parts are a little pricy. at least have the FW resurfaced and new bolts.
As far as all that extra power on the transmission. 240, 67HP, SD about 125HP. being an 80SD maybe a little less. the trans can handle it.
It is more or less just plug and play.
before removing the SD engine, remove the 6 13mm bolts that hold the torque convertor to the FW. can ce accesed from under the car through the black plastic cover on the bottom of the bell housing.
Charlie
The 5 speed needs a diff mount than the 240 auto..
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
I was thinking 4-spd.he might have to do what Dropnosky did with his 5 spd into his 240. cut and weld the mount, and fab it to fit.
Charlie
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