Turbo 616 powered Astro Van build

JB3

Superturbo

1,795

05-29-2013, 01:29 PM #167

(05-29-2013, 10:30 AM)Simpler=Better On every 617 I've touched, that rear turbo bolt is always loose, you don't reeeeealy need it :p

It looks great, even if that front end is a big ol' bucket of ugly(I cannot let this go-that plastic gm front gets me every time ). You should graft a w123 front onto it, or at least stick a big bumper to fill that gap.

Advance auto had 25' rolls of 2ga wire for ~$30 last time I checked, you might want to see if that's still the current price. Proper connections are everything, I haven't ever been able to start a 617 with just jumper cables.

What's up with the water connection on the back of the head?

I stole that vac connection from my parts 617, along with that sensor to block up the top of the manifold. What is that for?

Going to raise that front bumper eventually, I go back and forth on how the front now looks, right now Im not a fan. plastic!? just the gill, headlight surrounds, and top of bumper cover. its got approximately the same plastic quotient as a 123, but more painted stuff, less bling. There are billet grills for these things, though if we want to go really ugly, ill move my spare GMC vertical grill over. Big Grin

Thanks for the tip on advance, going to hit that up today I think and see If I can get things connected. I need short one from battery to starter, from starter housing to iron block grounded (its bolted only to aluminum in the adapter plate), from iron block to body grounded, and from one of these grounds back to battery. total of 4 big wires.

Then I need 2 small wires, one to run all accessories connected to the firewall 12v input, and one starter solenoid wire

The water connection is the stock 616 heater core port, comes out the back and heads to the passenger side for the sedan, I made a pipe to run it up to the heater core port for the van up top

(05-29-2013, 11:51 AM)DeliveryValve Can you pull the manifold off and have a machine shop offset drill the hole out? Maybe not enough material to do so?

I can't really drill the one custom bolt hole, the walls are too thin, but I have been thinking about cutting off all the upper ears except the first one for the other bolt holes, and using the first one to pivot the whole manifold down slightly to thread that dam bolt. Im thinking that it should be ok if I do that. Its just under 1/4 inch too high for the threads, and there should still be plenty of material on the lower side to provide clamping pressure

This post was last modified: 05-29-2013, 01:33 PM by JB3.

1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van