Turbo 616 powered Astro Van build
Turbo 616 powered Astro Van build
a vacuum leak in the car will drive you nuts from the noise
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
12-10-2013, 05:24 PM #251Run a vacuum line to a switched electric solenoid Then to the vacuum shut off. There must be a hole in the line ie vacuum leak between the solenoid and the shut off valve just a small one to release vacuum to the shut off valve so it can restart quickly. poke a hole in the line or use a hot sewing needle in the plastic part just before the shut off valve on the injection pump. It has to be able to bleed vacuum after the solenoid closes but not to much that the vacuum cant over come the leak and still close the shut off valve.
a vacuum leak in the car will drive you nuts from the noise
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
(12-10-2013, 05:24 PM)willbhere4u Run a vacuum line to a switched electric solenoid Then to the vacuum shut off. There must be a hole in the line ie vacuum leak between the solenoid and the shut off valve just a small one to release vacuum to the shut off valve so it can restart quickly. poke a hole in the line or use a hot sewing needle in the plastic part just before the shut off valve on the injection pump. It has to be able to bleed vacuum after the solenoid closes but not to much that the vacuum cant over come the leak and still close the shut off valve.
a vacuum leak in the car will drive you nuts from the noise
Im asking the nissan owner what kind of cabin noise this vac line makes for him, in some of his other driving videos, you can't really hear anything out of the ordinary
The pinhole method is hard to nail just right. Ive made 3 or 4 attempts with different type needles, and in different locations in the line, its difficult to perfectly hit the mark, and it seems to be different for every vehicle. Distance from the vac pump is definitely a factor, among other things, its quite a scientific process
Ive only read one guy (Mach4) over on peachparts who reports complete reliability, others have had decent success, but periodic issues.
However, Ive got a really neat little spring loaded air valve I want to try again for the pinhole method-
This is an all mechanical normally closed toggle switch, with a one position, spring loaded second position. If i can get the pinhole to work reliably, and this valve can withstand vacuum, then it would be a great solution. To turn off motor, hit the toggle
![[Image: 011_zps5d19e7fd.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/011_zps5d19e7fd.jpg.html)
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(12-10-2013, 05:24 PM)willbhere4u Run a vacuum line to a switched electric solenoid Then to the vacuum shut off. There must be a hole in the line ie vacuum leak between the solenoid and the shut off valve just a small one to release vacuum to the shut off valve so it can restart quickly. poke a hole in the line or use a hot sewing needle in the plastic part just before the shut off valve on the injection pump. It has to be able to bleed vacuum after the solenoid closes but not to much that the vacuum cant over come the leak and still close the shut off valve.
a vacuum leak in the car will drive you nuts from the noise
Im asking the nissan owner what kind of cabin noise this vac line makes for him, in some of his other driving videos, you can't really hear anything out of the ordinary
The pinhole method is hard to nail just right. Ive made 3 or 4 attempts with different type needles, and in different locations in the line, its difficult to perfectly hit the mark, and it seems to be different for every vehicle. Distance from the vac pump is definitely a factor, among other things, its quite a scientific process
Ive only read one guy (Mach4) over on peachparts who reports complete reliability, others have had decent success, but periodic issues.
However, Ive got a really neat little spring loaded air valve I want to try again for the pinhole method-
This is an all mechanical normally closed toggle switch, with a one position, spring loaded second position. If i can get the pinhole to work reliably, and this valve can withstand vacuum, then it would be a great solution. To turn off motor, hit the toggle
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
![[Image: svalv.jpg]](http://www.hitachi-automotive.us/html/products/Others/svalv.jpg)
No need for drilling holes and it works with your ignition key. Had it in my w123 and has been working... like forever....
There are 1000's to find in all types of car's on a scrapheap. I think with a merc you can easily tell if there's one by locating the small plastic air filter for the vac release.
Hook up 2 vac lines and 12v from your ignition and a ground and you're done!
Why not use one of these?
No need for drilling holes and it works with your ignition key. Had it in my w123 and has been working... like forever....
There are 1000's to find in all types of car's on a scrapheap. I think with a merc you can easily tell if there's one by locating the small plastic air filter for the vac release.
Hook up 2 vac lines and 12v from your ignition and a ground and you're done!
(12-11-2013, 12:54 PM)Tito Why not use one of these?Ford ranger 93-2000 will have an EGR solenoid valve that is:
No need for drilling holes and it works with your ignition key. Had it in my w123 and has been working... like forever....
There are 1000's to find in all types of car's on a scrapheap. I think with a merc you can easily tell if there's one by locating the small plastic air filter for the vac release.
Hook up 2 vac lines and 12v from your ignition and a ground and you're done!
Resting position-vac inlet closed, vac outlet vented to atmosphere.
Powered(5v?12v?) position-vac inlet connected to outlet. atmosphere connection closed.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
12-11-2013, 01:12 PM #254(12-11-2013, 12:54 PM)Tito Why not use one of these?Ford ranger 93-2000 will have an EGR solenoid valve that is:
No need for drilling holes and it works with your ignition key. Had it in my w123 and has been working... like forever....
There are 1000's to find in all types of car's on a scrapheap. I think with a merc you can easily tell if there's one by locating the small plastic air filter for the vac release.
Hook up 2 vac lines and 12v from your ignition and a ground and you're done!
Resting position-vac inlet closed, vac outlet vented to atmosphere.
Powered(5v?12v?) position-vac inlet connected to outlet. atmosphere connection closed.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
With that setup the pump will draw air from the shutoff actuator in rest position (no current) shutting the car off. When applying 12v (switch ignition on) the "vac inlet" (now atmosphere) is opened to the atmosphere and releasing the vacuum allowing the engine to start, and keep the original atmosphere connection closed, so no vac leaking.
Easy cheap and simple. The one from a ranger as you describe is te same als almost every 3 connection electronic solenoid.
With that setup, Hook the pump shutoff to the vac outlet, and the vacuum from the pump to the atmosphere connection.
With that setup the pump will draw air from the shutoff actuator in rest position (no current) shutting the car off. When applying 12v (switch ignition on) the "vac inlet" (now atmosphere) is opened to the atmosphere and releasing the vacuum allowing the engine to start, and keep the original atmosphere connection closed, so no vac leaking.
Easy cheap and simple. The one from a ranger as you describe is te same als almost every 3 connection electronic solenoid.
Floor the brake
Put it into 5th
Pop the clutch
No?
-Jooseppi
1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues
1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod
. Given to me by JB3, who got it from purplecomputer.Some blasphemous vehicles in the fleet as well -- 2004 Corolla 5-speed and 1994 Buick Century
2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."
Jooseppi Luna
12-11-2013, 02:42 PM #256Simple shutdown:
Floor the brake
Put it into 5th
Pop the clutch
No?
-Jooseppi
1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues
1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod
. Given to me by JB3, who got it from purplecomputer.Some blasphemous vehicles in the fleet as well -- 2004 Corolla 5-speed and 1994 Buick Century
2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."
I first used a yard sourced vac valve, then a brand new MB vac valve (both overboost protection solenoids), then a GM EGR valve, same setup, Then a volvo vac valve, then a VW vac valve, then a HUGE fuel valve (not rated for vacuum though, worse than the others).
The situation is this, the methods you describe all work in theory, as ive tried them out, replumbed for double valve, single valve, and so on, tried various pinhole methods, ect.
The problem is that few of these valves are strong enough to work against the vac pump in the best place i can mount them, which is 8 inches from the pump. ( I know it shouldn't matter, but it does seem to have an effect)
Running conditions are, the valve gets pulled open by the vac pump on highway, creating power loss. (this happened with two valves, GM and fuel valve) The valve functions to turn the vehicle off and stays open when energized against vacuum so no power loss, but cannot pull against residual vacuum and reopen after closing, creating a very hard to restart condition, ect ect ect. (this happened with all valves)
The MB overboost valve is the most popular item people use to shut their engines off, and its the most consistently reliable and workable in my layout, and it still is subpar, requiring 30 seconds of key on to start, and so on.
Basically, Im sick of all this crap, and im going to see what the open vac line T is like now, as the simplest, crudest, and most reliable method of shutting off ive yet read about.
(12-11-2013, 02:42 PM)Jooseppi Luna Simple shutdown:
Floor the brake
Put it into 5th
Pop the clutch
No?
This is a non WC T5, so that will eat the gearbox. Ive already learned that to my displeasure.
![[Image: 00435_zpsbc40d34c.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/00435_zpsbc40d34c.jpg.html)
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
yup, you guys are describing exactly what ive had installed from various manufacturers in this van already.
I first used a yard sourced vac valve, then a brand new MB vac valve (both overboost protection solenoids), then a GM EGR valve, same setup, Then a volvo vac valve, then a VW vac valve, then a HUGE fuel valve (not rated for vacuum though, worse than the others).
The situation is this, the methods you describe all work in theory, as ive tried them out, replumbed for double valve, single valve, and so on, tried various pinhole methods, ect.
The problem is that few of these valves are strong enough to work against the vac pump in the best place i can mount them, which is 8 inches from the pump. ( I know it shouldn't matter, but it does seem to have an effect)
Running conditions are, the valve gets pulled open by the vac pump on highway, creating power loss. (this happened with two valves, GM and fuel valve) The valve functions to turn the vehicle off and stays open when energized against vacuum so no power loss, but cannot pull against residual vacuum and reopen after closing, creating a very hard to restart condition, ect ect ect. (this happened with all valves)
The MB overboost valve is the most popular item people use to shut their engines off, and its the most consistently reliable and workable in my layout, and it still is subpar, requiring 30 seconds of key on to start, and so on.
Basically, Im sick of all this crap, and im going to see what the open vac line T is like now, as the simplest, crudest, and most reliable method of shutting off ive yet read about.
(12-11-2013, 02:42 PM)Jooseppi Luna Simple shutdown:
Floor the brake
Put it into 5th
Pop the clutch
No?
This is a non WC T5, so that will eat the gearbox. Ive already learned that to my displeasure.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Really? That's strange! When my shutoff switch at my ignition switch failed i've grabbed the thirst 3-way solenoid I could find at my job from a dusty old bin and installed it and worked right away! Kinda strange. I do believe you. But it's hard for me to come over the fact that these solenoids actually work with a vacuum (okay, not complete vacuum but 0.3 bar absolute at idle. Even more decelerating).
(12-11-2013, 03:17 PM)Tito Really? That's strange! When my shutoff switch at my ignition switch failed i've grabbed the thirst 3-way solenoid I could find at my job from a dusty old bin and installed it and worked right away! Kinda strange. I do believe you. But it's hard for me to come over the fact that these solenoids actually work with a vacuum (okay, not complete vacuum but 0.3 bar absolute at idle. Even more decelerating).
thats whats been so frustrating about the continued problem, no one else seems to have such a consistent issue getting their vehicle to re-start after shutting down.
Its possible I have a string of bad or sticky valves, but it really doesn't seem to make sense, as you aren't the first person who's had that reaction.
As far as I can tell, the only real difference between my arrangement and yours is proximity to the vacuum pump. Everything else is essentially identical, thats why I have a theory about a proximity related problem, but even that shouldn't make a difference.
I may screw around again now that the new engine is installed, it might act differently. All those previous problems with with my 1980 616 motor, and now ive installed a 1983 617 motor, so we are starting again at square one.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(12-11-2013, 03:17 PM)Tito Really? That's strange! When my shutoff switch at my ignition switch failed i've grabbed the thirst 3-way solenoid I could find at my job from a dusty old bin and installed it and worked right away! Kinda strange. I do believe you. But it's hard for me to come over the fact that these solenoids actually work with a vacuum (okay, not complete vacuum but 0.3 bar absolute at idle. Even more decelerating).
thats whats been so frustrating about the continued problem, no one else seems to have such a consistent issue getting their vehicle to re-start after shutting down.
Its possible I have a string of bad or sticky valves, but it really doesn't seem to make sense, as you aren't the first person who's had that reaction.
As far as I can tell, the only real difference between my arrangement and yours is proximity to the vacuum pump. Everything else is essentially identical, thats why I have a theory about a proximity related problem, but even that shouldn't make a difference.
I may screw around again now that the new engine is installed, it might act differently. All those previous problems with with my 1980 616 motor, and now ive installed a 1983 617 motor, so we are starting again at square one.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
It fits between the motor and radiator like it wants to be there-
![[Image: 003_zps593ce7de.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/003_zps593ce7de.jpg.html)
except for-
![[Image: 005_zpsf78dcb7a.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/005_zpsf78dcb7a.jpg.html)
Looks like im going electric. Otherwise id be cutting down each fan blade by 1.5 inches to clear with enough room with the engine moving. I doubt that would be worth the time over just finding something electric approximately 18 inchs across
![[Image: 0013_zps92926546.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0013_zps92926546.jpg.html)
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
So close on the MB fan!
It fits between the motor and radiator like it wants to be there-
except for-
Looks like im going electric. Otherwise id be cutting down each fan blade by 1.5 inches to clear with enough room with the engine moving. I doubt that would be worth the time over just finding something electric approximately 18 inchs across
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
just about ready to fill the cooling system on the 617 and popped the overflow tank cap.
Looks like the 616 must have developed some kind of secret head gasket problem. No running issues, ran really well and at about 165 degrees average no matter the load. Started in really cold temp no problem also.
Also weird as no brown gunk in the radiator cap either and the coolant looked good. I know this is new because this tank was clean when I first did the conversion.
It has to be motor oil, there is nothing else it can really be. Kinda messes up my plans for that motor, but its on a stand, so replacing the head gasket can come with replacing all the leaking seals and timing chain as well I guess.
![[Image: 0052_zpsbc0f3bcb.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0052_zpsbc0f3bcb.jpg.html)
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
wow check this out-
just about ready to fill the cooling system on the 617 and popped the overflow tank cap.
Looks like the 616 must have developed some kind of secret head gasket problem. No running issues, ran really well and at about 165 degrees average no matter the load. Started in really cold temp no problem also.
Also weird as no brown gunk in the radiator cap either and the coolant looked good. I know this is new because this tank was clean when I first did the conversion.
It has to be motor oil, there is nothing else it can really be. Kinda messes up my plans for that motor, but its on a stand, so replacing the head gasket can come with replacing all the leaking seals and timing chain as well I guess.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
When you mix oil and coolant you get a milkshake..does it feel oily?
Also, if this turns out to be a HG leak it will explain oh so many things about my DD that has the same color coolant
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
12-12-2013, 07:39 PM #262That's rust or "dirt", my ranger looks the same way.
When you mix oil and coolant you get a milkshake..does it feel oily?
Also, if this turns out to be a HG leak it will explain oh so many things about my DD that has the same color coolant
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(12-12-2013, 07:39 PM)Simpler=Better That's rust or "dirt", my ranger looks the same way.
When you mix oil and coolant you get a milkshake..does it feel oily?
Also, if this turns out to be a HG leak it will explain oh so many things about my DD that has the same color coolant
This engine has always been clean with clear coolant and no rust and scale flowing. Same with the prior gas engine, this is definitely a new issue. Its not rust, its definitely an oil gelatin type residue.
the only thing it can possibly be is engine oil getting in there unfortunately
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(12-12-2013, 07:39 PM)Simpler=Better That's rust or "dirt", my ranger looks the same way.
When you mix oil and coolant you get a milkshake..does it feel oily?
Also, if this turns out to be a HG leak it will explain oh so many things about my DD that has the same color coolant
This engine has always been clean with clear coolant and no rust and scale flowing. Same with the prior gas engine, this is definitely a new issue. Its not rust, its definitely an oil gelatin type residue.
the only thing it can possibly be is engine oil getting in there unfortunately
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
12-13-2013, 10:22 AM #264It looks like rust/silt to me but remove a few freeze plugs and check out the old engine first. Ditto if it was oil it would be more frothy! The silt and rust settle to the bottom until they are mixed up by the water pump and moved around so the coolant will look clean. The rusty silt and anti freeze turn in to a mud paste like grease. oil alone won't get that thick. It will stay oily and float on top of the bottle not sink to the bottom like in your pic. also if it was oil it would be black. Take a paper towel a and rub some on and let it dry I would bet money it drys rust red
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
Maybe the load of pulling the van around shook up a lot of silt in the motor or heater core.
The radiator was about 6 months old when I did the swap the first time, so its pretty clean
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Maybe you guys are right. There's a lot of it in that container which was dry, and its a lot more like axle grease than oil slick. Ill try the dry experiment and see what happens.
Maybe the load of pulling the van around shook up a lot of silt in the motor or heater core.
The radiator was about 6 months old when I did the swap the first time, so its pretty clean
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
12-13-2013, 06:17 PM #266It's very common for rust slit to sit in the bottom of the engine block in the water gallery's until its disturbed pull a freeze plug and look in there I bet theirs a lot more than you would guess in there
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
Just need to work out a leaking brake fitting, but its ready to test drive.
first start, air problem
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n41CPUq6kyY
second start, rebled the air issue and it runs great!
Also got to try out the open vac line shutoff, boy is that effective. Psyched to go for a test drive now
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vCy6p5eDw2c
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
it lives!
Just need to work out a leaking brake fitting, but its ready to test drive.
first start, air problem
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n41CPUq6kyY
second start, rebled the air issue and it runs great!
Also got to try out the open vac line shutoff, boy is that effective. Psyched to go for a test drive now
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vCy6p5eDw2c
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
12-18-2013, 03:57 PM #268Sounds good should have some power now
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
Aftermarket electric fan I bought off amazon, its actually quite nice for the 30 something dollars I paid. (!). It also had great reviews, im interested to see how it holds up, and i have it rigged for a manual on off right now until I work out the temperature controls and rig something up.
![[Image: 0035_zps554e57fc.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0035_zps554e57fc.jpg.html)
fits pretty nicely with the 617, good amount of space-
![[Image: 0092_zpsc590d6b4.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0092_zpsc590d6b4.jpg.html)
I had to get a little interesting with the coolant passage that comes out of the driver rear of the head. On the 616 I went up and over, but that created a lot of room issues for the air filtration, so this time decided to go down, under, and around.
It travels behind the oil filter, around the lower oil pan, then up to the connection under the climate control airbox
![[Image: 0044_zpsd7527f15.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0044_zpsd7527f15.jpg.html)
also made a slight, but very important change that I neglected earlier. The GM radiator uses an upper and lower fan shroud as a clamshell to hold the radiator in place, with the 616, the lower shroud was brittle and shattered, so I only had a modified upper shroud.
For 8 thousand miles ive been driving around with the radiator staying in place only by the stiffness of these rubber mounts in the lower position, with no additional support to them!-
Fortunately some metal tabs worked perfectly to support the rubber and prevent an eventual disaster
![[Image: 0054_zps733fadda.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0054_zps733fadda.jpg.html)
![[Image: 007_zps505b2306.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/007_zps505b2306.jpg.html)
Here is my stock benz downpipe-
![[Image: 0053_zps5eb0d5ab.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0053_zps5eb0d5ab.jpg.html)
I have to do a little follow up work here, as you can see the bellows mount is broken and loose-
![[Image: 0016_zps9647254c.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0016_zps9647254c.jpg.html)
![[Image: 0034_zps6396cb19.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0034_zps6396cb19.jpg.html)
I was able to extract the broken bolt, can I remake the stainless piece of of mild steel? What is the reason for stainless here?
I have it bolted up with the upper bolt and have the exhaust almost done, but I definitely need to return and fix this long term
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
so some other pics I forgot to upload related to the 617 vs the 616 installation.
Aftermarket electric fan I bought off amazon, its actually quite nice for the 30 something dollars I paid. (!). It also had great reviews, im interested to see how it holds up, and i have it rigged for a manual on off right now until I work out the temperature controls and rig something up.
fits pretty nicely with the 617, good amount of space-
I had to get a little interesting with the coolant passage that comes out of the driver rear of the head. On the 616 I went up and over, but that created a lot of room issues for the air filtration, so this time decided to go down, under, and around.
It travels behind the oil filter, around the lower oil pan, then up to the connection under the climate control airbox
also made a slight, but very important change that I neglected earlier. The GM radiator uses an upper and lower fan shroud as a clamshell to hold the radiator in place, with the 616, the lower shroud was brittle and shattered, so I only had a modified upper shroud.
For 8 thousand miles ive been driving around with the radiator staying in place only by the stiffness of these rubber mounts in the lower position, with no additional support to them!-
Fortunately some metal tabs worked perfectly to support the rubber and prevent an eventual disaster
Here is my stock benz downpipe-
I have to do a little follow up work here, as you can see the bellows mount is broken and loose-
I was able to extract the broken bolt, can I remake the stainless piece of of mild steel? What is the reason for stainless here?
I have it bolted up with the upper bolt and have the exhaust almost done, but I definitely need to return and fix this long term
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
I have one of those elbow assholes if you need it. Any reason you can't weld it real quick?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
12-19-2013, 10:28 AM #270Go to an oldtimer parts store and ask to see their temperature switch catalog. It will list switch thread pitch, on temp, off temp. FWIW, a foxbody 2.3 NA temp switch comes on a 210°F and off at 185°F
I have one of those elbow assholes if you need it. Any reason you can't weld it real quick?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
The good news is that a 617 in front of a 4.56 diff with street tires is an absolute blast to drive. I need to race this van against the wifes wagon, but I have a feeling it might hold its own until 65mph at least. Third gear = zoom. The motor has plenty of power to throw it around, Ive been enjoying myself.
The bad news-
The transmission must come down again as I believe I have bolt to flywheel contact again, just like the first time. Its making that same horrendous noise it made in the very beginning, and ill be playing again with spacers. Oh well, at least I have this down to a science at this point.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
I have good news and bad news.
The good news is that a 617 in front of a 4.56 diff with street tires is an absolute blast to drive. I need to race this van against the wifes wagon, but I have a feeling it might hold its own until 65mph at least. Third gear = zoom. The motor has plenty of power to throw it around, Ive been enjoying myself.
The bad news-
The transmission must come down again as I believe I have bolt to flywheel contact again, just like the first time. Its making that same horrendous noise it made in the very beginning, and ill be playing again with spacers. Oh well, at least I have this down to a science at this point.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Ill never figure this depth issue out if I don't compare the transmission bell and input shaft depth differences with both transmissions side by side. The adapter is made for the NV3500, so I should be able to get some good measurements and either get the T5 to be exactly correct, or just use the NV3500 instead and put the T5 in something else.
Fortunately, there are no shortage of 500 dollar 5-speed rusty chevy trucks on craigslist at the moment in the correct year ranges.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
going to go look at a POS rusted out 1996 1500 parts truck that has the NV3500 (hopefully, seller claims).
Ill never figure this depth issue out if I don't compare the transmission bell and input shaft depth differences with both transmissions side by side. The adapter is made for the NV3500, so I should be able to get some good measurements and either get the T5 to be exactly correct, or just use the NV3500 instead and put the T5 in something else.
Fortunately, there are no shortage of 500 dollar 5-speed rusty chevy trucks on craigslist at the moment in the correct year ranges.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
![[Image: 0052_zpsa087c3c2.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0052_zpsa087c3c2.jpg.html)
Im interested to see if these tires really fit on the front of these vans. The size difference is several inches, but some astro people say they fit and look good. looking forward to having them installed as soon as I get the tranny put back up and seeing for myself if they do. There are a lot of conflicting first hand accounts, so it seems like a van by van thing. Im convinced the van will look good with these tires, but looking good and turning are different things.
The stock size is 205/75 R15, but ive jumped up to 235/75 R15s instead to play with the gear ratios some more
![[Image: 0072_zpscc22fa8b.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0072_zpscc22fa8b.jpg.html)
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Tirerack claus came through and some much needed but taller rubber has arrived. Old tires are dangerously cracked and worn on the front-
Im interested to see if these tires really fit on the front of these vans. The size difference is several inches, but some astro people say they fit and look good. looking forward to having them installed as soon as I get the tranny put back up and seeing for myself if they do. There are a lot of conflicting first hand accounts, so it seems like a van by van thing. Im convinced the van will look good with these tires, but looking good and turning are different things.
The stock size is 205/75 R15, but ive jumped up to 235/75 R15s instead to play with the gear ratios some more
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
I have been in New Venture gearbox mania. I sourced a NV3500 gearbox out of a 1994 chevy 1500 6 banger, and in the process of finding the correct gearbox, also grabbed a 1999 NV1500 out of a 99 S10 4 banger.
The original purpose was I couldn't find a non 4x4 NV3500, so was looking for a possible tailcone swap candidate, but it turns out they can't really share that part between the two gearboxes. However, keeping it around as it looks suspiciously close to an OM60x bell pattern.
Starters on the correct side, though a bit too low. Worth hanging onto and taking a look down the line. Maybe an s10 with the NV1500 would be an good swap candidate for other families of benz motors.
Returning to the 3500, I lucked out looking at a 4x4 gearbox and transfer case, the guy turned out to have a 2wd sitting under a work bench unadvertised with about 100k on it.
here are a few pics of the gearboxes-
s10 on the left, 1500 on the right (with the correct 6 and 8 cyl bell pattern I need)
![[Image: 0012_zps1344eeb2.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0012_zps1344eeb2.jpg.html)
notice the different locations for the shifters. One of the other reasons for grabbing the s10 gearbox was moving the shifter back if I need to, but I don't think its possible or necessary. We will see soon enough-
![[Image: 0044_zps620be347.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0044_zps620be347.jpg.html)
The NV3500 has an external slave like the T5, but its clear on the opposite side of the bell under the starter, so some re-routing will have to occur if I swap gearboxes. Looking on the van, there appears to be enough room, interesting location for it though
![[Image: 003_zps226be655.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/003_zps226be655.jpg.html)
Also another development is I mounted these huge tires. we will see if it can turn. The size difference is not small.
![[Image: 014_zps4c14a2bc.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/014_zps4c14a2bc.jpg.html)
Looks like it might be a little tight in the front-
![[Image: 015_zpsd08a4b63.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/015_zpsd08a4b63.jpg.html)
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
so, some developments-
I have been in New Venture gearbox mania. I sourced a NV3500 gearbox out of a 1994 chevy 1500 6 banger, and in the process of finding the correct gearbox, also grabbed a 1999 NV1500 out of a 99 S10 4 banger.
The original purpose was I couldn't find a non 4x4 NV3500, so was looking for a possible tailcone swap candidate, but it turns out they can't really share that part between the two gearboxes. However, keeping it around as it looks suspiciously close to an OM60x bell pattern.
Starters on the correct side, though a bit too low. Worth hanging onto and taking a look down the line. Maybe an s10 with the NV1500 would be an good swap candidate for other families of benz motors.
Returning to the 3500, I lucked out looking at a 4x4 gearbox and transfer case, the guy turned out to have a 2wd sitting under a work bench unadvertised with about 100k on it.
here are a few pics of the gearboxes-
s10 on the left, 1500 on the right (with the correct 6 and 8 cyl bell pattern I need)
notice the different locations for the shifters. One of the other reasons for grabbing the s10 gearbox was moving the shifter back if I need to, but I don't think its possible or necessary. We will see soon enough-
The NV3500 has an external slave like the T5, but its clear on the opposite side of the bell under the starter, so some re-routing will have to occur if I swap gearboxes. Looking on the van, there appears to be enough room, interesting location for it though
Also another development is I mounted these huge tires. we will see if it can turn. The size difference is not small.
Looks like it might be a little tight in the front-
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(12-26-2013, 01:37 PM)JB3 ...
Im convinced the van will look good with these tires, but looking good and turning are different things.
...
The stance community strongly disagrees with you, looking good is always more important than turning.
I'm still rooting for a Krieger paintjob:
![[Image: krieger-vans.jpg]](http://cdn.uproxx.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/krieger-vans.jpg)
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
01-06-2014, 02:21 PM #275(12-26-2013, 01:37 PM)JB3 ...
Im convinced the van will look good with these tires, but looking good and turning are different things.
...
The stance community strongly disagrees with you, looking good is always more important than turning.
I'm still rooting for a Krieger paintjob:
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(12-11-2013, 02:43 PM)JB3I was joking(12-11-2013, 02:42 PM)Jooseppi Luna Simple shutdown:
Floor the brake
Put it into 5th
Pop the clutch
No?
This is a non WC T5, so that will eat the gearbox. Ive already learned that to my displeasure.
(01-06-2014, 02:21 PM)Simpler=BetterNono, he doesn't need some stupid paint job, he just needs more stance. Like this:(12-26-2013, 01:37 PM)JB3 ...
Im convinced the van will look good with these tires, but looking good and turning are different things.
...
The stance community strongly disagrees with you, looking good is always more important than turning.
I'm still rooting for a Krieger paintjob.
![[Image: Stance-Nation-Japan-14-1200x800.jpg]](http://www.speedhunters.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/Stance-Nation-Japan-14-1200x800.jpg)
Hey JB3, I see you're confused -- the formula for success is bigger wheels + smaller tires, not the other way around.
BTW, when I was searching for stupid stance pictures, I found an exhaust solution for the van:
![[Image: IMG_0962.JPG]](http://www.speedhunters.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/12/IMG_0962.JPG)
Be sure to fart-can it, too.
-Jooseppi
1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues
1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod
. Given to me by JB3, who got it from purplecomputer.Some blasphemous vehicles in the fleet as well -- 2004 Corolla 5-speed and 1994 Buick Century
2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."
Jooseppi Luna
01-06-2014, 03:23 PM #276(12-11-2013, 02:43 PM)JB3I was joking(12-11-2013, 02:42 PM)Jooseppi Luna Simple shutdown:
Floor the brake
Put it into 5th
Pop the clutch
No?
This is a non WC T5, so that will eat the gearbox. Ive already learned that to my displeasure.
(01-06-2014, 02:21 PM)Simpler=BetterNono, he doesn't need some stupid paint job, he just needs more stance. Like this:(12-26-2013, 01:37 PM)JB3 ...
Im convinced the van will look good with these tires, but looking good and turning are different things.
...
The stance community strongly disagrees with you, looking good is always more important than turning.
I'm still rooting for a Krieger paintjob.
Hey JB3, I see you're confused -- the formula for success is bigger wheels + smaller tires, not the other way around.
BTW, when I was searching for stupid stance pictures, I found an exhaust solution for the van:
Be sure to fart-can it, too.
-Jooseppi
1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues
1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod
. Given to me by JB3, who got it from purplecomputer.Some blasphemous vehicles in the fleet as well -- 2004 Corolla 5-speed and 1994 Buick Century
2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."
(01-06-2014, 03:23 PM)Jooseppi Luna Nono, he doesn't need some stupid paint job, he just needs more stance. Like this:
That's stupid camber! Stance is height
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
01-06-2014, 05:27 PM #277(01-06-2014, 03:23 PM)Jooseppi Luna Nono, he doesn't need some stupid paint job, he just needs more stance. Like this:
That's stupid camber! Stance is height
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
(01-06-2014, 05:27 PM)willbhere4u That's stupid camber! Stance is height
Ah, I was thinking of stance as being related to width as per Larry Craig.
Well, whatever it is, that van needs more of it.
-Jooseppi
1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues
1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod
. Given to me by JB3, who got it from purplecomputer.Some blasphemous vehicles in the fleet as well -- 2004 Corolla 5-speed and 1994 Buick Century
2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."
Jooseppi Luna
01-06-2014, 06:48 PM #278(01-06-2014, 05:27 PM)willbhere4u That's stupid camber! Stance is height
Ah, I was thinking of stance as being related to width as per Larry Craig.
Well, whatever it is, that van needs more of it.
-Jooseppi
1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues
1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod
. Given to me by JB3, who got it from purplecomputer.Some blasphemous vehicles in the fleet as well -- 2004 Corolla 5-speed and 1994 Buick Century
2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."
http://www.stanceworks.com/
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
01-07-2014, 12:10 PM #279check out this web sight for some bad ass rides http://www.stanceworks.com/
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
(01-07-2014, 12:10 PM)willbhere4u check out this web sight for some bad ass rides
this was the first car on the page. Think I'm in love
http://www.stanceworks.com/2014/01/keith...vo-amazon/
Purplecomputer
01-09-2014, 10:49 AM #280(01-07-2014, 12:10 PM)willbhere4u check out this web sight for some bad ass rides
this was the first car on the page. Think I'm in love
http://www.stanceworks.com/2014/01/keith...vo-amazon/
Not a single one of those cars would survive being driven to the dump loaded with old boards and rubbleso update-
well, ive got a bit of a head scratcher to ponder now.
Ive pulled the thing in to dozens of parts again, and I cannot find a single physical issue with the clutch that would be causing the awful noise I heard. like the gearbox starting to eat itself.
Ive also finally had a chance to compare the T5 gearbox with a NV3500 gearbox, and there is no difference between the input shafts as far as depths.
The input shaft on both gearboxes extends 2/8ths past the bell, and the splines start 5/8ths down the shaft. This brings into question some of the early issues i had with the adapter kit, like the pilot bearing adapter wasn't going to work for the NV3500 either.
So now im thinking about taking the T5 apart and looking inside. The noise was awful, and ive found nothing external that would explain it.
If I want to use the NV3500 I now have, I need to change the clutch disc to the correct spline clutch, get a new slave cylinder that matches this bell, and cut another shifter hole for it.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
lol, what the hell happened on this thread? im using this thing to trundle around moving generally trash, and now we are on a huge debate about stance modifications. Not a single one of those cars would survive being driven to the dump loaded with old boards and rubble
so update-
well, ive got a bit of a head scratcher to ponder now.
Ive pulled the thing in to dozens of parts again, and I cannot find a single physical issue with the clutch that would be causing the awful noise I heard. like the gearbox starting to eat itself.
Ive also finally had a chance to compare the T5 gearbox with a NV3500 gearbox, and there is no difference between the input shafts as far as depths.
The input shaft on both gearboxes extends 2/8ths past the bell, and the splines start 5/8ths down the shaft. This brings into question some of the early issues i had with the adapter kit, like the pilot bearing adapter wasn't going to work for the NV3500 either.
So now im thinking about taking the T5 apart and looking inside. The noise was awful, and ive found nothing external that would explain it.
If I want to use the NV3500 I now have, I need to change the clutch disc to the correct spline clutch, get a new slave cylinder that matches this bell, and cut another shifter hole for it.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Reason being is ive been sitting here with the gearbox turning it in all gears, and nothing, feels great. No clicking, no play, no nothing that would cause worry.
After I pulled the flywheel, I had a good look at the groove cut in the back by my first problems. I finally pulled up a comparison pic of how it looked the first time-
![[Image: 008_zps3743f7f3.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/008_zps3743f7f3.jpg.html)
and now-
![[Image: 0013_zpsb6a0ef02.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0013_zpsb6a0ef02.jpg.html)
certainly looks like more, but weirdly, I can find no evidence on the bolts themselves showing they touched. It doesn't seem possible that they are making all that noise and vibration, BUT, its so close to my original issue, that there is definitely a likelyhood that this is the culprit. We will see
![[Image: 003_zpsb5f07842.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/003_zpsb5f07842.jpg.html)
so what ive decided to do is take that 3mm spacer that I had moved to the front of the flywheel, and move it to the back where I had placed it early on behind the 616.
I moved it around to the front because that was how the kit was designed, and I wanted to move the pilot bearing adapter back by that much, but the clearance is so close, that maybe its touching under load, maybe the flyhweel itself is actually flexing just a tiny bit under load?
anyway, its worth a test install to see what happens with that spacer behind the flywheel again.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
ok, im giving the T5 another try.
Reason being is ive been sitting here with the gearbox turning it in all gears, and nothing, feels great. No clicking, no play, no nothing that would cause worry.
After I pulled the flywheel, I had a good look at the groove cut in the back by my first problems. I finally pulled up a comparison pic of how it looked the first time-
and now-
certainly looks like more, but weirdly, I can find no evidence on the bolts themselves showing they touched. It doesn't seem possible that they are making all that noise and vibration, BUT, its so close to my original issue, that there is definitely a likelyhood that this is the culprit. We will see
so what ive decided to do is take that 3mm spacer that I had moved to the front of the flywheel, and move it to the back where I had placed it early on behind the 616.
I moved it around to the front because that was how the kit was designed, and I wanted to move the pilot bearing adapter back by that much, but the clearance is so close, that maybe its touching under load, maybe the flyhweel itself is actually flexing just a tiny bit under load?
anyway, its worth a test install to see what happens with that spacer behind the flywheel again.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
good news 1-
I have eliminated the metallic noise, there is no more clicking and destruction noises. It seems this was again, the flywheel contacting the adapter plate bolts.
good news 2-
the clutch is now working quite well, so finally have that worked out.
good news 3-
the big tires look good, and only barely touch on some corners. I still have to put the wheel stops in, but they should work well. Secondly moving the bumper up has totally improved the look of the van by a huge amount.
comparison of before and after-
![[Image: 0012-4_zps57913167.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0012-4_zps57913167.jpg.html)
![[Image: 0012_zps48f3a91f.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0012_zps48f3a91f.jpg.html)
and now for the blunder. I make this admission because this is a crucial step I would never had made doing a 4-speed conversion on a benz, but rocketed right along on this van blowing right by it without thought, and have made some huge work for myself.
It suddenly occurs to me what the vibration is at low RPM (and its major). Its because I neglected to match balance the big aluminum flywheel with the existing benz flywheel from the 617 motor. Not only did I forget to do that, I also removed the benz flywheel from the donor motor WITHOUT marking it.
This means that I am pretty much screwed here on getting the balance right with no reference marks. I must have been on the 616 mindset thinking neutral balance, but ive blown it big time.
I can't think of any way to get the balance correct short of pulling the crank out and re-balancing with the flywheel. Unless someone has a labor saving scheme, this is what I think will have to happen now. whoops. heh, this thread is now dedicated to doing every bit of the conversion wrong 20 different times, and hopefully getting it to work.
On the plus side, the crank can probably come out in the van without too much issue. Ive done it to myself this time, thats for sure
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Ok, I have good news, a little more good news, and a serious blunder that will now be very difficult to resolve.
good news 1-
I have eliminated the metallic noise, there is no more clicking and destruction noises. It seems this was again, the flywheel contacting the adapter plate bolts.
good news 2-
the clutch is now working quite well, so finally have that worked out.
good news 3-
the big tires look good, and only barely touch on some corners. I still have to put the wheel stops in, but they should work well. Secondly moving the bumper up has totally improved the look of the van by a huge amount.
comparison of before and after-
and now for the blunder. I make this admission because this is a crucial step I would never had made doing a 4-speed conversion on a benz, but rocketed right along on this van blowing right by it without thought, and have made some huge work for myself.
It suddenly occurs to me what the vibration is at low RPM (and its major). Its because I neglected to match balance the big aluminum flywheel with the existing benz flywheel from the 617 motor. Not only did I forget to do that, I also removed the benz flywheel from the donor motor WITHOUT marking it.
This means that I am pretty much screwed here on getting the balance right with no reference marks. I must have been on the 616 mindset thinking neutral balance, but ive blown it big time.
I can't think of any way to get the balance correct short of pulling the crank out and re-balancing with the flywheel. Unless someone has a labor saving scheme, this is what I think will have to happen now. whoops. heh, this thread is now dedicated to doing every bit of the conversion wrong 20 different times, and hopefully getting it to work.
On the plus side, the crank can probably come out in the van without too much issue. Ive done it to myself this time, thats for sure
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Are you reusing the flywheel bolts?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
01-29-2014, 10:48 AM #284Find someone with a high speed camera, drop the tranny, and record the flywheel flopping around in there. The heavy point will be obvious. Grind as necessary, or re-clock.
Are you reusing the flywheel bolts?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(01-29-2014, 10:48 AM)Simpler=Better Find someone with a high speed camera, drop the tranny, and record the flywheel flopping around in there. The heavy point will be obvious. Grind as necessary, or re-clock.
Are you reusing the flywheel bolts?
Rollguy over on PP and you have just about the same idea, and im going to steal it and try it.
im not even going to bother with the camera, im just going to pull everything apart, match balance the stock mercedes flywheel and the aluminum flywheel, then look at it in different positions on the engine.
Once I have the two flywheels matched, there are only 12 possible positions for it to be clocked, and one of them is correct. Even if I have to pull the gearbox and test each position individually for vibration with a driving test, it strikes me as less work than ripping the whole motor apart.
At least its a place to start. If I can't nail it down that way, I can always go further on the enigne later
I am reusing the flywheel bolts no more than twice, going through my large collection of them, none of them are loose or stretched out of spec yet.
However, Im thinking of just getting 12 grade 8 bolts that match the threads so I don't have to worry about it. the stock MB bolts are pricey
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(01-29-2014, 10:48 AM)Simpler=Better Find someone with a high speed camera, drop the tranny, and record the flywheel flopping around in there. The heavy point will be obvious. Grind as necessary, or re-clock.
Are you reusing the flywheel bolts?
Rollguy over on PP and you have just about the same idea, and im going to steal it and try it.
im not even going to bother with the camera, im just going to pull everything apart, match balance the stock mercedes flywheel and the aluminum flywheel, then look at it in different positions on the engine.
Once I have the two flywheels matched, there are only 12 possible positions for it to be clocked, and one of them is correct. Even if I have to pull the gearbox and test each position individually for vibration with a driving test, it strikes me as less work than ripping the whole motor apart.
At least its a place to start. If I can't nail it down that way, I can always go further on the enigne later
I am reusing the flywheel bolts no more than twice, going through my large collection of them, none of them are loose or stretched out of spec yet.
However, Im thinking of just getting 12 grade 8 bolts that match the threads so I don't have to worry about it. the stock MB bolts are pricey
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
EDIT: setup a camera when you're doing this just in case. That way your wife knows what happened when she finds your body.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
01-29-2014, 01:52 PM #286Alternatively, hold a marker up to the flywheel as it's loping around. The outermost flung area will hit the marker.
EDIT: setup a camera when you're doing this just in case. That way your wife knows what happened when she finds your body.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
01-29-2014, 02:07 PM #2871st check the balance on the original 617 flywheel it may be neutral balance I have read that a 240d 616 flywheel Evan balanced and matched will vibrated on a 617 because it dose not have enough mass for the 617 engine. The 300d manual flywheels are massive and very heavy over 50# loaded I believe. On a diesel the heaver the flywheel the better for vibrations concerns!
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
(01-09-2014, 10:49 AM)Purplecomputer(01-07-2014, 12:10 PM)willbhere4u check out this web sight for some bad ass rides
this was the first car on the page. Think I'm in love
http://www.stanceworks.com/2014/01/keith...vo-amazon/
Neither of those links work for me.I think I broke the internets.
1990 Mercury Blue Max Cougar 3.8L with Automatic
Future OM617 Super Turbo Diesel Conversion with T56 6 Speed Manual
(01-09-2014, 10:49 AM)Purplecomputer(01-07-2014, 12:10 PM)willbhere4u check out this web sight for some bad ass rides
this was the first car on the page. Think I'm in love
http://www.stanceworks.com/2014/01/keith...vo-amazon/
Neither of those links work for me.I think I broke the internets.
1990 Mercury Blue Max Cougar 3.8L with Automatic
Future OM617 Super Turbo Diesel Conversion with T56 6 Speed Manual
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
01-29-2014, 04:36 PM #289I think there sight might be down
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
(01-29-2014, 10:30 AM)JB3 Ok, I have good news, a little more good news, and a serious blunder that will now be very difficult to resolve.
good news 1-
I have eliminated the metallic noise, there is no more clicking and destruction noises. It seems this was again, the flywheel contacting the adapter plate bolts.
good news 2-
the clutch is now working quite well, so finally have that worked out.
good news 3-
the big tires look good, and only barely touch on some corners. I still have to put the wheel stops in, but they should work well. Secondly moving the bumper up has totally improved the look of the van by a huge amount.
comparison of before and after-
and now for the blunder. I make this admission because this is a crucial step I would never had made doing a 4-speed conversion on a benz, but rocketed right along on this van blowing right by it without thought, and have made some huge work for myself.
It suddenly occurs to me what the vibration is at low RPM (and its major). Its because I neglected to match balance the big aluminum flywheel with the existing benz flywheel from the 617 motor. Not only did I forget to do that, I also removed the benz flywheel from the donor motor WITHOUT marking it.
This means that I am pretty much screwed here on getting the balance right with no reference marks. I must have been on the 616 mindset thinking neutral balance, but ive blown it big time.
I can't think of any way to get the balance correct short of pulling the crank out and re-balancing with the flywheel. Unless someone has a labor saving scheme, this is what I think will have to happen now. whoops. heh, this thread is now dedicated to doing every bit of the conversion wrong 20 different times, and hopefully getting it to work.
On the plus side, the crank can probably come out in the van without too much issue. Ive done it to myself this time, thats for sure
Austincarnut
01-29-2014, 10:46 PM #291try and figure the heavy spot and counter with stick on lead wheel weights (if there is space) and then adjust by removing material
(01-29-2014, 10:30 AM)JB3 Ok, I have good news, a little more good news, and a serious blunder that will now be very difficult to resolve.
good news 1-
I have eliminated the metallic noise, there is no more clicking and destruction noises. It seems this was again, the flywheel contacting the adapter plate bolts.
good news 2-
the clutch is now working quite well, so finally have that worked out.
good news 3-
the big tires look good, and only barely touch on some corners. I still have to put the wheel stops in, but they should work well. Secondly moving the bumper up has totally improved the look of the van by a huge amount.
comparison of before and after-
and now for the blunder. I make this admission because this is a crucial step I would never had made doing a 4-speed conversion on a benz, but rocketed right along on this van blowing right by it without thought, and have made some huge work for myself.
It suddenly occurs to me what the vibration is at low RPM (and its major). Its because I neglected to match balance the big aluminum flywheel with the existing benz flywheel from the 617 motor. Not only did I forget to do that, I also removed the benz flywheel from the donor motor WITHOUT marking it.
This means that I am pretty much screwed here on getting the balance right with no reference marks. I must have been on the 616 mindset thinking neutral balance, but ive blown it big time.
I can't think of any way to get the balance correct short of pulling the crank out and re-balancing with the flywheel. Unless someone has a labor saving scheme, this is what I think will have to happen now. whoops. heh, this thread is now dedicated to doing every bit of the conversion wrong 20 different times, and hopefully getting it to work.
On the plus side, the crank can probably come out in the van without too much issue. Ive done it to myself this time, thats for sure
(01-29-2014, 01:52 PM)Simpler=Better Alternatively, hold a marker up to the flywheel as it's loping around. The outermost flung area will hit the marker.
EDIT: setup a camera when you're doing this just in case. That way your wife knows what happened when she finds your body.
hahaha
you and your schemes to get me hurt or killed. I don't think the wife will appreciate your efforts!
although this is not a bad idea...... But id really need to lock the marker in a jig that held it exactly in the same place.
(01-29-2014, 02:07 PM)willbhere4u 1st check the balance on the original 617 flywheel it may be neutral balance I have read that a 240d 616 flywheel Evan balanced and matched will vibrated on a 617 because it dose not have enough mass for the 617 engine. The 300d manual flywheels are massive and very heavy over 50# loaded I believe. On a diesel the heaver the flywheel the better for vibrations concerns!
I just did a test to see on the original flywheel-
check this out, its got a definite heavy side.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QAX6FiShQ...e=youtu.be
I was told the aluminum flywheel from the kit has a neutral balance, but now thinking on it, im not sure. I can't remember any drill marks indicating its been balanced. Once thats out im going to spin that too and see what it does.
Maybe I have a biased weighted flywheel incorrected installed on a engine that already had a biased weighted flywheel. That could explain a lot
(01-29-2014, 10:46 PM)Austincarnut try and figure the heavy spot and counter with stick on lead wheel weights (if there is space) and then adjust by removing material
good idea, ill start playing with it after I build a jig so I can see the flywheel in action. Im really interested to see what it looks like running
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(01-29-2014, 01:52 PM)Simpler=Better Alternatively, hold a marker up to the flywheel as it's loping around. The outermost flung area will hit the marker.
EDIT: setup a camera when you're doing this just in case. That way your wife knows what happened when she finds your body.
hahaha
you and your schemes to get me hurt or killed. I don't think the wife will appreciate your efforts!
although this is not a bad idea...... But id really need to lock the marker in a jig that held it exactly in the same place.
(01-29-2014, 02:07 PM)willbhere4u 1st check the balance on the original 617 flywheel it may be neutral balance I have read that a 240d 616 flywheel Evan balanced and matched will vibrated on a 617 because it dose not have enough mass for the 617 engine. The 300d manual flywheels are massive and very heavy over 50# loaded I believe. On a diesel the heaver the flywheel the better for vibrations concerns!
I just did a test to see on the original flywheel-
check this out, its got a definite heavy side.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QAX6FiShQ...e=youtu.be
I was told the aluminum flywheel from the kit has a neutral balance, but now thinking on it, im not sure. I can't remember any drill marks indicating its been balanced. Once thats out im going to spin that too and see what it does.
Maybe I have a biased weighted flywheel incorrected installed on a engine that already had a biased weighted flywheel. That could explain a lot
(01-29-2014, 10:46 PM)Austincarnut try and figure the heavy spot and counter with stick on lead wheel weights (if there is space) and then adjust by removing material
good idea, ill start playing with it after I build a jig so I can see the flywheel in action. Im really interested to see what it looks like running
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(01-30-2014, 09:31 AM)JB3(01-29-2014, 01:52 PM)Simpler=Better Alternatively, hold a marker up to the flywheel as it's loping around. The outermost flung area will hit the marker.
EDIT: setup a camera when you're doing this just in case. That way your wife knows what happened when she finds your body.
hahaha
you and your schemes to get me hurt or killed. I don't think the wife will appreciate your efforts!
although this is not a bad idea...... But id really need to lock the marker in a jig that held it exactly in the same place.
(01-29-2014, 02:07 PM)willbhere4u 1st check the balance on the original 617 flywheel it may be neutral balance I have read that a 240d 616 flywheel Evan balanced and matched will vibrated on a 617 because it dose not have enough mass for the 617 engine. The 300d manual flywheels are massive and very heavy over 50# loaded I believe. On a diesel the heaver the flywheel the better for vibrations concerns!
I just did a test to see on the original flywheel-
check this out, its got a definite heavy side.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QAX6FiShQ...e=youtu.be
I was told the aluminum flywheel from the kit has a neutral balance, but now thinking on it, im not sure. I can't remember any drill marks indicating its been balanced. Once thats out im going to spin that too and see what it does.
Maybe I have a biased weighted flywheel incorrected installed on a engine that already had a biased weighted flywheel. That could explain a lot
(01-29-2014, 10:46 PM)Austincarnut try and figure the heavy spot and counter with stick on lead wheel weights (if there is space) and then adjust by removing material
good idea, ill start playing with it after I build a jig so I can see the flywheel in action. Im really interested to see what it looks like running
You can hold the marker by hand (actually, chalk or another hard marking device might be better), just bring it in really slow. The whole engine should be rocking. A good set of eyes can see a 0.010-0.020" movement, so you should be able to carefully do this while the whole thing is assembled, through the inspection port. Just don't rest the marker on the engine or bell housing.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
01-30-2014, 09:52 AM #293(01-30-2014, 09:31 AM)JB3(01-29-2014, 01:52 PM)Simpler=Better Alternatively, hold a marker up to the flywheel as it's loping around. The outermost flung area will hit the marker.
EDIT: setup a camera when you're doing this just in case. That way your wife knows what happened when she finds your body.
hahaha
you and your schemes to get me hurt or killed. I don't think the wife will appreciate your efforts!
although this is not a bad idea...... But id really need to lock the marker in a jig that held it exactly in the same place.
(01-29-2014, 02:07 PM)willbhere4u 1st check the balance on the original 617 flywheel it may be neutral balance I have read that a 240d 616 flywheel Evan balanced and matched will vibrated on a 617 because it dose not have enough mass for the 617 engine. The 300d manual flywheels are massive and very heavy over 50# loaded I believe. On a diesel the heaver the flywheel the better for vibrations concerns!
I just did a test to see on the original flywheel-
check this out, its got a definite heavy side.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QAX6FiShQ...e=youtu.be
I was told the aluminum flywheel from the kit has a neutral balance, but now thinking on it, im not sure. I can't remember any drill marks indicating its been balanced. Once thats out im going to spin that too and see what it does.
Maybe I have a biased weighted flywheel incorrected installed on a engine that already had a biased weighted flywheel. That could explain a lot
(01-29-2014, 10:46 PM)Austincarnut try and figure the heavy spot and counter with stick on lead wheel weights (if there is space) and then adjust by removing material
good idea, ill start playing with it after I build a jig so I can see the flywheel in action. Im really interested to see what it looks like running
You can hold the marker by hand (actually, chalk or another hard marking device might be better), just bring it in really slow. The whole engine should be rocking. A good set of eyes can see a 0.010-0.020" movement, so you should be able to carefully do this while the whole thing is assembled, through the inspection port. Just don't rest the marker on the engine or bell housing.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Since installing the 617, ive driven maybe 12 miles in test drives, and I have more bad news. The imbalanced flywheel fiasco has caused what looks like a rear main seal leak around the crank that has clearly presented itself since the last time the transmission was down (2 days ago). That will have to be fixed now as well, I hope I didn't wipe any bearings also.
here is the aluminum flywheel spin test-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Lhy4va26...e=youtu.be
Both flywheels are now at a machinist getting the one matched to the other
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Ive removed the gearbox again, and I have performed the spin test on the aluminum flywheel, and that too has a definite heavy spot, though not as pronounced as the cast iron stock flywheel. It is not a neutral balance as I had hoped.
Since installing the 617, ive driven maybe 12 miles in test drives, and I have more bad news. The imbalanced flywheel fiasco has caused what looks like a rear main seal leak around the crank that has clearly presented itself since the last time the transmission was down (2 days ago). That will have to be fixed now as well, I hope I didn't wipe any bearings also.
here is the aluminum flywheel spin test-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Lhy4va26...e=youtu.be
Both flywheels are now at a machinist getting the one matched to the other
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
original om617 manual flywheel picture
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
01-31-2014, 10:44 AM #295It will still vibrate Evan if you get the balanced perfect. If it dose not weigh enough that's the problem the 300d 4spd swap guy have running a 240d flywheels. Evan after matching balance on a 240d flywheel to the 300d's original flywheel. There is not enough mass to smooth out the natural engine vibrations on the 617. The 300d manual flywheel has a ring of weight on the out side of the flywheel to move the balance weight to the outside diameter of the flywheel
original om617 manual flywheel picture
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
![[Image: %24(KGrHqZHJBQFHmt1pRqCBS!YdnNn3Q~~60_35.JPG]](http://i.ebayimg.com/t/1-742-712-EXHAUST-VACUUM-SOLENOID-VALVE-AIR-EGR-BMW-USED-/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/eXQAAOxySOlSAYdn/%24(KGrHqZHJBQFHmt1pRqCBS!YdnNn3Q~~60_35.JPG)
aluminum flywheel and original flywheel are off at a machine shop. will probably switch back to the 3.42 diff as well to better matchProblem is I don't need this van anymore, work necessitated that I buy a full size that does everything this one did. Probably going to get it running again properly and its gonna be up for sale.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
removed the balance issue 617, installed another 617 and this time MARKED the flywheel to crank. aluminum flywheel and original flywheel are off at a machine shop. will probably switch back to the 3.42 diff as well to better match
Problem is I don't need this van anymore, work necessitated that I buy a full size that does everything this one did. Probably going to get it running again properly and its gonna be up for sale.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
I haven't weighed it but the internets tell me it's like 30-something pounds.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
08-22-2014, 12:01 PM #298Want me to drill my SBC 14" flywheel for you to try out?
I haven't weighed it but the internets tell me it's like 30-something pounds.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
______________________________
Hey JB3, still got this thing kicking around? It's seems to have been a spell or three
______________________________
(02-16-2015, 11:37 PM)turbojeep Hey JB3, still got this thing kicking around? It's seems to have been a spell or three
still got it!
waiting on a concrete floor to keep working on it and decide what I want to do with it
Here it is next to my horribly stuck work van at the moment
![[Image: 20150218_162629_zpsezscyzcx.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/20150218_162629_zpsezscyzcx.jpg.html)
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(02-16-2015, 11:37 PM)turbojeep Hey JB3, still got this thing kicking around? It's seems to have been a spell or three
still got it!
waiting on a concrete floor to keep working on it and decide what I want to do with it
Here it is next to my horribly stuck work van at the moment
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
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