Turbo 616 powered Astro Van build
Turbo 616 powered Astro Van build
raysorenson
04-23-2013, 10:47 AM #151I saw a thread on pirate4x4 where a guy cut the top off of the MB oil filter housing and welded a cap to the remaining stub with a threaded fitting there. This way he retained the thermostat, bypass, stock oil cooler lines but added a remote oil filter. If you've got enough clearance for the bottom of the oil filter housing, this might be the way to go.
(04-23-2013, 10:47 AM)raysorenson I saw a thread on pirate4x4 where a guy cut the top off of the MB oil filter housing and welded a cap to the remaining stub with a threaded fitting there. This way he retained the thermostat, bypass, stock oil cooler lines but added a remote oil filter. If you've got enough clearance for the bottom of the oil filter housing, this might be the way to go.
this is a great idea!
I wont be able to use this for this van as the adapter is really really close to the bolt pattern, but im definitely going to try it on my other project, where the issue is the top of the oil filter housing instead!
so a few developments, finally got the clutch pedal worked out and fitting with the steering column.
The consistent issue was that the clutch pedal stop was too weak, and also in the way of some electrical connections that occupy the same space with the column up.
column installed with arrow pointing to the stop, that plug fits right into the stop area and cannot be moved, controls brights/turn signals, ect, lever activated from up the column-
![[Image: 005-1_zpsfefc5a4a.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/005-1_zpsfefc5a4a.jpg.html)
Clutch pedal had to be removed and this hole filled in a redrilled. both these holes should be about the same size as a comparison-
![[Image: 0022-4_zps676c5031.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0022-4_zps676c5031.jpg.html)
Also my steering shaft extension all installed and lined up. Fortunately, it can only be installed one way, they make it pretty easy to avoid getting the wheel mis-aligned with the direction of the tires-
old and new-
![[Image: 0013-1_zpsa04e20eb.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0013-1_zpsa04e20eb.jpg.html)
new shaft installed-
![[Image: 007-1_zps3f3c3d2f.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/007-1_zps3f3c3d2f.jpg.html)
EDIT- some other stuff-
couple other little updates-
installed this nice set of drop spindles from an astro guy-
![[Image: 003-5_zps96f690f3.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/003-5_zps96f690f3.jpg.html)
comparison-
![[Image: 006-1_zps9d0a0562.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/006-1_zps9d0a0562.jpg.html)
![[Image: 005-1_zpsc5999c68.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/005-1_zpsc5999c68.jpg.html)
very pleased with the new ride height-
![[Image: 007-1_zps1e84b3ff.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/007-1_zps1e84b3ff.jpg.html)
the van is now actually within 1/4 of an inch level between front and rear amazingly-
![[Image: 008-1_zps86bb8123.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/008-1_zps86bb8123.jpg.html)
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(04-23-2013, 10:47 AM)raysorenson I saw a thread on pirate4x4 where a guy cut the top off of the MB oil filter housing and welded a cap to the remaining stub with a threaded fitting there. This way he retained the thermostat, bypass, stock oil cooler lines but added a remote oil filter. If you've got enough clearance for the bottom of the oil filter housing, this might be the way to go.
this is a great idea!
I wont be able to use this for this van as the adapter is really really close to the bolt pattern, but im definitely going to try it on my other project, where the issue is the top of the oil filter housing instead!
so a few developments, finally got the clutch pedal worked out and fitting with the steering column.
The consistent issue was that the clutch pedal stop was too weak, and also in the way of some electrical connections that occupy the same space with the column up.
column installed with arrow pointing to the stop, that plug fits right into the stop area and cannot be moved, controls brights/turn signals, ect, lever activated from up the column-
Clutch pedal had to be removed and this hole filled in a redrilled. both these holes should be about the same size as a comparison-
Also my steering shaft extension all installed and lined up. Fortunately, it can only be installed one way, they make it pretty easy to avoid getting the wheel mis-aligned with the direction of the tires-
old and new-
new shaft installed-
EDIT- some other stuff-
couple other little updates-
installed this nice set of drop spindles from an astro guy-
comparison-
very pleased with the new ride height-
the van is now actually within 1/4 of an inch level between front and rear amazingly-
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
This was the first one where I welded some 10-AN fittings to a 1/4 inch steel plate. It was pretty, but it leaked-
![[Image: 020-1.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/020-1.jpg.html)
Went back in and welded around and around and around, 4 beads. It was ugly and didn't leak, and of course had I stopped to consider what I was doing, I probably wouldnt have warped the plate as bad and made it unusable except for a machinist to cut down.
version 2-
![[Image: 002-1_zpsd78dd866.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/002-1_zpsd78dd866.jpg.html)
Then I wised up and went with 1/2 inch steel plate, and drilled and tapped the 10-AN fittings instead, which was a lot cleaner-
![[Image: 001-3_zps5f16ed6a.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/001-3_zps5f16ed6a.jpg.html)
![[Image: 0032_zps62faec9c.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0032_zps62faec9c.jpg.html)
fits nicely with the transmission plate, im going to be using pushlok hose and fittings for my connections. I was looking for a basic oil cooler I can adapt to the 10-AN, but after reading mach4's thread over on PP where he diesel converts a SL, ill be following what he did and tapping the holes in the stock MB oil cooler I have.
![[Image: 0042_zps97ac2d0f.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0042_zps97ac2d0f.jpg.html)
The major hurdle im waiting on still is the power steering line bump fitting ends so I can make custom ones. I do not recommend ordering from "parts dave" for your domestic vehicle, its been 8 days and hasn't shipped yet.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
oiling almost resolved, i went through a few different remote plates.
This was the first one where I welded some 10-AN fittings to a 1/4 inch steel plate. It was pretty, but it leaked-
Went back in and welded around and around and around, 4 beads. It was ugly and didn't leak, and of course had I stopped to consider what I was doing, I probably wouldnt have warped the plate as bad and made it unusable except for a machinist to cut down.
version 2-
Then I wised up and went with 1/2 inch steel plate, and drilled and tapped the 10-AN fittings instead, which was a lot cleaner-
fits nicely with the transmission plate, im going to be using pushlok hose and fittings for my connections. I was looking for a basic oil cooler I can adapt to the 10-AN, but after reading mach4's thread over on PP where he diesel converts a SL, ill be following what he did and tapping the holes in the stock MB oil cooler I have.
The major hurdle im waiting on still is the power steering line bump fitting ends so I can make custom ones. I do not recommend ordering from "parts dave" for your domestic vehicle, its been 8 days and hasn't shipped yet.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
vac pump hooked up to stock GM line, still need to add a port for vac shut off when I get to that, but for now I should have power brakes when I test fire this sucker
![[Image: 002-1_zpsc09ecc62.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/002-1_zpsc09ecc62.jpg.html)
New fuel filter installed, made a bracket to hold a 500FG racor fuel filter, huge leap over the stock filter that was for the diesel. Combined water separator as well, nice piece of hardware
![[Image: 002_zpse75e2af4.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/002_zpse75e2af4.jpg.html)
![[Image: 0022-4_zps5ca01c11.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0022-4_zps5ca01c11.jpg.html)
also have the oil filter location mounted. Just waiting on a new oil cooler from summit right now, then I can get the three lines made up that I need. I probably already mentioned in this thread, but this moroso head has a provision for a pressure gauge outlet, and a small secondary output I can use for turbo oiling. With the exception of not having an oil thermostat, I should be able to do everything else that the stock oil filter did.
Was looking to adapt the MB oil cooler, but the one I have is so beat up it seems a waste of time making custom line ends to fit on it, so I went with a new one that already has NPT ports on it I can easily adapt to -10 AN
easy access-
![[Image: 0023-1_zps1cb958d0.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0023-1_zps1cb958d0.jpg.html)
one short line might be a bit cramped between the plate and filter head, but worst case scenario, I make a longer one and loop around-
![[Image: 0013-1_zpsa488ec5d.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0013-1_zpsa488ec5d.jpg.html)
glow plug relay mounted to GM airbox, this way the wiring harness for it is close to the wiring harness I will be creating for the engine. Fits nicely here though
![[Image: 001_zps41d312cf.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/001_zps41d312cf.jpg.html)
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
couple updates-
vac pump hooked up to stock GM line, still need to add a port for vac shut off when I get to that, but for now I should have power brakes when I test fire this sucker
New fuel filter installed, made a bracket to hold a 500FG racor fuel filter, huge leap over the stock filter that was for the diesel. Combined water separator as well, nice piece of hardware
also have the oil filter location mounted. Just waiting on a new oil cooler from summit right now, then I can get the three lines made up that I need. I probably already mentioned in this thread, but this moroso head has a provision for a pressure gauge outlet, and a small secondary output I can use for turbo oiling. With the exception of not having an oil thermostat, I should be able to do everything else that the stock oil filter did.
Was looking to adapt the MB oil cooler, but the one I have is so beat up it seems a waste of time making custom line ends to fit on it, so I went with a new one that already has NPT ports on it I can easily adapt to -10 AN
easy access-
one short line might be a bit cramped between the plate and filter head, but worst case scenario, I make a longer one and loop around-
glow plug relay mounted to GM airbox, this way the wiring harness for it is close to the wiring harness I will be creating for the engine. Fits nicely here though
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
05-21-2013, 03:23 PM #155Looking good.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Today made some progress on hydraulics-
brakes hooked up as it was. Im not sure if this was the original design with the splitter, but it was what was on the van when I started, so I just recreated it with mostly new hardware and following the same areas that the stock lines used to
![[Image: 011-2_zps3043015b.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/011-2_zps3043015b.jpg.html)
brake side-
![[Image: 012-2_zps785620de.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/012-2_zps785620de.jpg.html)
junction area-
![[Image: 010-1_zps2153039a.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/010-1_zps2153039a.jpg.html)
also hooked up the clutch line. Im not totally happy with the number of connections I made in this line, a total of 5 pieces, but I adapted the fittings on both the slave and master to regular brake line, then used a generic flex line from some unknown application to compensate for vibration. Im considering building a solid bracket for the body side of this flex line to limit broken line issues over time
![[Image: 013-3_zpsba72d537.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/013-3_zpsba72d537.jpg.html)
also decided to pull the fuel tank, here it looks pretty good under its protective plastic shielding-
![[Image: 003-5_zps32d13d3d.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/003-5_zps32d13d3d.jpg.html)
but its pretty badly surface rusted, it was empty and easy to handle, so ive pulled it to refinish it with rust converter
![[Image: 005-1_zpsed216083.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/005-1_zpsed216083.jpg.html)
![[Image: 009-1_zpsbe65a7d1.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/009-1_zpsbe65a7d1.jpg.html)
also this allowed me to get rid of all this rusted fuel and brake line above. Im going full rubber for the fuel lines instead. And I have the obligatory rusted out rear brake line above the fuel tank id really just felt like removing. Ive never owned a single astro where this line was still intact. Everyone runs the line through the tank straps
![[Image: 008-1_zps19f6b5cc.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/008-1_zps19f6b5cc.jpg.html)
notice this vice grip! ive owned this van for years and never noticed it
![[Image: 002_zpsb0e32a8d.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/002_zpsb0e32a8d.jpg.html)
all the parking brakes have been ripped out up to the pedal for the eventual installation of a handbrake
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
getting close to the test drive!
Today made some progress on hydraulics-
brakes hooked up as it was. Im not sure if this was the original design with the splitter, but it was what was on the van when I started, so I just recreated it with mostly new hardware and following the same areas that the stock lines used to
brake side-
junction area-
also hooked up the clutch line. Im not totally happy with the number of connections I made in this line, a total of 5 pieces, but I adapted the fittings on both the slave and master to regular brake line, then used a generic flex line from some unknown application to compensate for vibration. Im considering building a solid bracket for the body side of this flex line to limit broken line issues over time
also decided to pull the fuel tank, here it looks pretty good under its protective plastic shielding-
but its pretty badly surface rusted, it was empty and easy to handle, so ive pulled it to refinish it with rust converter
also this allowed me to get rid of all this rusted fuel and brake line above. Im going full rubber for the fuel lines instead. And I have the obligatory rusted out rear brake line above the fuel tank id really just felt like removing. Ive never owned a single astro where this line was still intact. Everyone runs the line through the tank straps
notice this vice grip! ive owned this van for years and never noticed it
all the parking brakes have been ripped out up to the pedal for the eventual installation of a handbrake
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
05-22-2013, 06:50 PM #157Haha I love finding mystery vice grips
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Also, for the brake lines-cunifer tubing is worth the $$. If that's too rich for your blood, the poly coated is great as well.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
05-23-2013, 08:11 AM #159Will a plastic F150 (21gal long) or Ranger(16 gal long) tank fit back there? Or a plastic Jeep Grand Cherokee(16 gal, square)?
Also, for the brake lines-cunifer tubing is worth the $$. If that's too rich for your blood, the poly coated is great as well.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(05-23-2013, 08:11 AM)Simpler=Better Will a plastic F150 (21gal long) or Ranger(16 gal long) tank fit back there? Or a plastic Jeep Grand Cherokee(16 gal, square)?I second the cunifer brake lines/tubing. It bends and flares way easier than steel and will outlast most vehicles.
Also, for the brake lines-cunifer tubing is worth the $$. If that's too rich for your blood, the poly coated is great as well.
I've been way too busy replacing brake line recently.
So far I've replaced all lines on a 2002 Tahoe and a 2002 Silverado because they rusted through and leaked. I've also replaced the slightly rusted lines on my '93 300d from just before the T for the rear brakes to the calipers. Did the same job on a friends '93 300D. No reason to wait for another brake failure. My family has been extremely lucky to have had brake lines leak three times and not have any accidents. (The Silverado had a rock hit accelerate the rusting lines thing in one spot a few years back.) Next is my 2004 Avalance, very rusted but not leaking, yet. That has to wait until I get a replacement tumbler for my 300D's ignition. It jammed yesterday. Managed to get it to turn and removed it.
***********************************************
1993 300D 2.5L turbo. W124.128 2.5L 602.962
1991 350SD W126.134 Transplanted a 3.0L 603.961 into it.
(05-23-2013, 08:11 AM)Simpler=Better Will a plastic F150 (21gal long) or Ranger(16 gal long) tank fit back there? Or a plastic Jeep Grand Cherokee(16 gal, square)?I second the cunifer brake lines/tubing. It bends and flares way easier than steel and will outlast most vehicles.
Also, for the brake lines-cunifer tubing is worth the $$. If that's too rich for your blood, the poly coated is great as well.
I've been way too busy replacing brake line recently.
So far I've replaced all lines on a 2002 Tahoe and a 2002 Silverado because they rusted through and leaked. I've also replaced the slightly rusted lines on my '93 300d from just before the T for the rear brakes to the calipers. Did the same job on a friends '93 300D. No reason to wait for another brake failure. My family has been extremely lucky to have had brake lines leak three times and not have any accidents. (The Silverado had a rock hit accelerate the rusting lines thing in one spot a few years back.) Next is my 2004 Avalance, very rusted but not leaking, yet. That has to wait until I get a replacement tumbler for my 300D's ignition. It jammed yesterday. Managed to get it to turn and removed it.
***********************************************
1993 300D 2.5L turbo. W124.128 2.5L 602.962
1991 350SD W126.134 Transplanted a 3.0L 603.961 into it.
The rear brake lines need to be replaced soon, so ill probably start with the cunifer in that area first, as more prone to rust anyway.
These may do ok, as the plan once the swap is drivable and ive done the rear suspension change over to steel, is to undercoat the whole vehicle, which will rubbercoat the new brake lines.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
The cunifer is a great idea, I wish Id done some research on other options before installing whats already there, but at least its super easy to service and replace.
The rear brake lines need to be replaced soon, so ill probably start with the cunifer in that area first, as more prone to rust anyway.
These may do ok, as the plan once the swap is drivable and ive done the rear suspension change over to steel, is to undercoat the whole vehicle, which will rubbercoat the new brake lines.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(05-22-2013, 06:50 PM)Simpler=Better Haha I love finding mystery vice grips
the funny thing is they werent even clamped, just open and hooked on the line via rust. Could have been there for years it looks like that.
so cleaned up and refinished the top of the fuel tank with rust converter. Fortunately, though it was pretty rusted, it was not through anywhere, should last a good long time with this treatment. Once it dries Ill pull the bottom shield and do that side and reinstall
![[Image: 001_zps66e67204.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/001_zps66e67204.jpg.html)
![[Image: 002_zps24c9d6ca.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/002_zps24c9d6ca.jpg.html)
also my oil cooler arrived! plenty of space for it where the A/C was on this van-
![[Image: 003-5_zpsf8d68bea.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/003-5_zpsf8d68bea.jpg.html)
Made a path through the radiator side shielding for the cooler lines, and mounted it in front. This cooler is approximately 2/3rds the size of the MB cooler, but the lines are travelling another foot and a half to get to it so Im hoping for about the same effect in cooling, plus this is way more advanced in design. If I find it inadequate, the way ive set it up means I can go with a larger unit from the same manufacturer and use the same basic brackets, only adding one piece. As it stands its very strong, doesn't need any further bracing
![[Image: 004-2_zps9af14c46.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/004-2_zps9af14c46.jpg.html)
With the oil cooler what stands to be completed next is oil lines, and turbo final installation with all the bits, including feed line and drain lines. Once thats done and fuel is hooked up (pics to come of that), im wiring, throttle, and power steering away from ready to test drive. Power steering im going to do after the test, ill cut the belt for now until I have lines worked out
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(05-22-2013, 06:50 PM)Simpler=Better Haha I love finding mystery vice grips
the funny thing is they werent even clamped, just open and hooked on the line via rust. Could have been there for years it looks like that.
so cleaned up and refinished the top of the fuel tank with rust converter. Fortunately, though it was pretty rusted, it was not through anywhere, should last a good long time with this treatment. Once it dries Ill pull the bottom shield and do that side and reinstall
also my oil cooler arrived! plenty of space for it where the A/C was on this van-
Made a path through the radiator side shielding for the cooler lines, and mounted it in front. This cooler is approximately 2/3rds the size of the MB cooler, but the lines are travelling another foot and a half to get to it so Im hoping for about the same effect in cooling, plus this is way more advanced in design. If I find it inadequate, the way ive set it up means I can go with a larger unit from the same manufacturer and use the same basic brackets, only adding one piece. As it stands its very strong, doesn't need any further bracing
With the oil cooler what stands to be completed next is oil lines, and turbo final installation with all the bits, including feed line and drain lines. Once thats done and fuel is hooked up (pics to come of that), im wiring, throttle, and power steering away from ready to test drive. Power steering im going to do after the test, ill cut the belt for now until I have lines worked out
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
The underside of the fuel tank was crispy, but not terrible, with the exception of one area where it was pretty rusty, but not through fortunately
![[Image: 001_zps39de46a9.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/001_zps39de46a9.jpg.html)
![[Image: 002_zps11f30115.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/002_zps11f30115.jpg.html)
refinished ready for installation. Glad I went through with this, I doubt this tank had another winter before it rusted through, especially on the top-
bottom-
![[Image: 003-5_zps637533a9.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/003-5_zps637533a9.jpg.html)
top with plastic shield installed-
![[Image: 007-1_zps42eaf2ea.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/007-1_zps42eaf2ea.jpg.html)
oil system all hooked up with the exception of the turbo feed line, though I did have the opportunity today to get that made, so I should hopefully get things put together this weekend for the turbo side.
cooler-
![[Image: 004-2_zpse619c63e.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/004-2_zpse619c63e.jpg.html)
lines run by the fuel filter, and you can see here my shut off valve for fuel on the inlet side of the filter-
![[Image: 005-1_zpse514e6fe.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/005-1_zpse514e6fe.jpg.html)
moroso head. I can't say enough about how nice this oil filter head is, you can see here the small port on the top ill be using for turbo feed, and the port in the middle front will eventually be for my oil pressure gauge.
The way I have this plumbed flow wise is engine, cooler, filter, back to engine. The reason is just in case any crap in the cooler gets dumped downstream, the filter will pick it up before it gets to the motor
![[Image: 006-1_zpsb14708c4.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/006-1_zpsb14708c4.jpg.html)
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
todays update-
The underside of the fuel tank was crispy, but not terrible, with the exception of one area where it was pretty rusty, but not through fortunately
refinished ready for installation. Glad I went through with this, I doubt this tank had another winter before it rusted through, especially on the top-
bottom-
top with plastic shield installed-
oil system all hooked up with the exception of the turbo feed line, though I did have the opportunity today to get that made, so I should hopefully get things put together this weekend for the turbo side.
cooler-
lines run by the fuel filter, and you can see here my shut off valve for fuel on the inlet side of the filter-
moroso head. I can't say enough about how nice this oil filter head is, you can see here the small port on the top ill be using for turbo feed, and the port in the middle front will eventually be for my oil pressure gauge.
The way I have this plumbed flow wise is engine, cooler, filter, back to engine. The reason is just in case any crap in the cooler gets dumped downstream, the filter will pick it up before it gets to the motor
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
![[Image: 003-5_zpsfe9a12db.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/003-5_zpsfe9a12db.jpg.html)
fuel pump removed and sender unit reinstalled-
![[Image: 011-2_zpsbe9dde01.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/011-2_zpsbe9dde01.jpg.html)
![[Image: 012-2_zps4887c371.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/012-2_zps4887c371.jpg.html)
also fill neck drilled out to accept the large diesel nozzle-
![[Image: 009-1_zps111e941e.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/009-1_zps111e941e.jpg.html)
![[Image: 010-1_zpsdeef2197.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/010-1_zpsdeef2197.jpg.html)
Fuel lines are all run with the exception of priming needing to happen still-
![[Image: 007-1_zps2f33f86c.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/007-1_zps2f33f86c.jpg.html)
![[Image: 008-1_zpsf12c8de6.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/008-1_zpsf12c8de6.jpg.html)
return line I needed to make this little brass T to compensate for where the return used to go to the stock fuel filter top. 3/16 for the return, 1/4 for the injection pump return, and 5/16 back to the tank
![[Image: 001_zpsc15fd175.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/001_zpsc15fd175.jpg.html)
Installed- I may rework this and permanently mount this nicely after I work out power steering, but for now its zip tied to the dip stick. secure there fortunately. Ive also replumbed running outlet from the lift pump directly into inlet for injection pump. I may also put a small inline filter here as well, but for now it should be fine
![[Image: 005-1_zps6dd8438b.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/005-1_zps6dd8438b.jpg.html)
throttle is worked out so that it functions properly, though I might return later and simplify if possible.
I flipped over the stock 616 pivot piece related to that vacuum valve, bent a few pieces to hold the firewall throttle spring, and cut and welded the stock bracket to hold the GM throttle cable in place. The feel is a little stiff, but not because of the MB parts, the cable should be replaced. It can stand to be about 15 inches shorter as well, but a stock astro cable will work. It floors nicely, and now returns to idle position well.
I almost blew it in that I neglected to compensate for the hand shutoff lever in cable play when I first was making the cable holding bracket, but caught myself in time and that function should work now.
![[Image: 005-1_zps58ab9c6e.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/005-1_zps58ab9c6e.jpg.html)
I have spent hours today trying to bleed the clutch. I had read this is as big a pain for GM hydraulic applications as it is for MB, which im more familiar with.
I bench bled, then pedal bled mounted, then bled to the slave, and pumped the pedal in excess of 2k times, no joke. The great thing about the layout here is that the slave is actually accessible from the hatch while pumping the pedal! I have about a half pedal now, a few more thousand pumps or 20 or 30 more bleeding sessions may take care of it.
people have had good success pressure bleeding from underneath, so I may try that later.
Brakes fortunately bled nicely, I did break off the bleeder for the RR wheel cylinder, but should be an easy fix, need new rear brakes anyway.
Other news is fuel is completely bled, and now I can focus completely on getting this turbo hooked up and connected
turbo drain complete-
so 2+ years ago before I wrecked the donor 240, I had removed and welded this pipe thread port to the lower oil pan for a turbo drain. 10k miles later in all weather and 2+ years of sitting have put a lot of rust on this unpainted port I also never drilled out. Also any fitting I install will be too close to the subframe.
![[Image: 001_zps9e2d5642.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/001_zps9e2d5642.jpg.html)
Lower oil pan is removable in vehicle without terrible difficulty, slides out to the rear reasonably. Lots of room to work with, way more than in the sedan
![[Image: 002_zps854350ee.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/002_zps854350ee.jpg.html)
I ended up carefully tapping a 1/2 pipe threaded hole in the upper pan. Plan was to use a bulkhead fluid fitting, but the access above was good enough to manipulate a tap and tighten a fitting without too much risk to the cast aluminum-
![[Image: 006-1_zpsc52148b4.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/006-1_zpsc52148b4.jpg.html)
![[Image: 007-1_zps69c30e65.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/007-1_zps69c30e65.jpg.html)
Next order of business is the custom turbo exhaust and intake are a little off as far as bolt holes, and need to be ground out. and one last custom fitting for the turbo oil inlet, plus a restriction plate for oil flow. After that should be plug and play for the turbo
so im at the test fire stage now, and now ive got a few issues to resolve predictably.
first off, my custom exhaust will not work, im going to need to remake this part unfortunately. That final hole that was brazed on will not line up, and no amount of grinding will fix it unless I grind off completely the upper side of the ears inside, which I may try later.
I installed it anyway to get everything ready to fire it.
![[Image: 002_zps45ce809e.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/002_zps45ce809e.jpg.html)
installed everything and go my oil feed lines hooked up. Feed line is about 6 inches too long, but should be fine-
![[Image: 001_zpsb57d067e.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/001_zpsb57d067e.jpg.html)
![[Image: 003-5_zps7fca9236.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/003-5_zps7fca9236.jpg.html)
![[Image: 004-2_zps19064e6e.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/004-2_zps19064e6e.jpg.html)
drain hooked up-
![[Image: 006-1_zpsd4151a35.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/006-1_zpsd4151a35.jpg.html)
I then went in and trimmed the hole for the transmission shifter for vibration issues Im sure I will encounter when it fires-
![[Image: 008-1_zps01f91295.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/008-1_zps01f91295.jpg.html)
Last thing was the vac line between the intake and the ADA. hooked that up, also have an ALDA if I want to play with it, but for now we will see what it does this way
Rotated the engine, oil and coolant put in. Fortunately this christmas tree watering tube works perfectly to put oil in the motor
![[Image: 007-1_zpsb2a71b7c.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/007-1_zpsb2a71b7c.jpg.html)
Also some more good news is that I rotated in 1st gear and was able to verify that I have the 4-1 ratio first, which is the best set of ratios I was hoping to find for the diesel and pretty darn close to stock MB.
Wired it to start, and click, click, click.
The starter will not turn over this motor, removed and bench tested, works fine. Engine turns over by hand easy enough, I may do it a few more times to lube things up, but so far I can't get this ford starter to turn this mercedes motor over. Working on it later today. Other issues are I seem to have pinched something under the valve cover on the turbo side, major oil leak when putting oil in.
So before a test drive, the following major issues need to happen-
bleed clutch properly
figure out starter, either get this one working, or find something else
pull valve cover and stop leak
After I have to fix the exhaust, and get into the rest of the swap like power steering, alternator wiring, ect. Close though!
so got the starter working properly, but still no test fire due to killed 4 batteries and bad connections between a bunch of jumper cables. Decided to take a break, and properly build the battery box behind the passenger seat, then wire it properly first before next attempt. Most of the problem seems to have been bad connections
I turned the engine over manually several times, and after cleaning and lubing the starter, it will turn the motor over, which is good news for later.
In the meantime moved the van outside to return to this project after some consolidation of other projects in the work space, and finally have a look at how it sits from a little distance.
![[Image: 0022-4_zpsa2b3d30b.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0022-4_zpsa2b3d30b.jpg.html)
![[Image: 0012-4_zps57913167.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0012-4_zps57913167.jpg.html)
It really needs that 2 inch lift in the rear, and some bigger tires long term I think. the dropped sub frame is not noticable really. This is the bad side, which will get repaired eventually
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
tank back up-
fuel pump removed and sender unit reinstalled-
also fill neck drilled out to accept the large diesel nozzle-
Fuel lines are all run with the exception of priming needing to happen still-
return line I needed to make this little brass T to compensate for where the return used to go to the stock fuel filter top. 3/16 for the return, 1/4 for the injection pump return, and 5/16 back to the tank
Installed- I may rework this and permanently mount this nicely after I work out power steering, but for now its zip tied to the dip stick. secure there fortunately. Ive also replumbed running outlet from the lift pump directly into inlet for injection pump. I may also put a small inline filter here as well, but for now it should be fine
throttle is worked out so that it functions properly, though I might return later and simplify if possible.
I flipped over the stock 616 pivot piece related to that vacuum valve, bent a few pieces to hold the firewall throttle spring, and cut and welded the stock bracket to hold the GM throttle cable in place. The feel is a little stiff, but not because of the MB parts, the cable should be replaced. It can stand to be about 15 inches shorter as well, but a stock astro cable will work. It floors nicely, and now returns to idle position well.
I almost blew it in that I neglected to compensate for the hand shutoff lever in cable play when I first was making the cable holding bracket, but caught myself in time and that function should work now.
I have spent hours today trying to bleed the clutch. I had read this is as big a pain for GM hydraulic applications as it is for MB, which im more familiar with.
I bench bled, then pedal bled mounted, then bled to the slave, and pumped the pedal in excess of 2k times, no joke. The great thing about the layout here is that the slave is actually accessible from the hatch while pumping the pedal! I have about a half pedal now, a few more thousand pumps or 20 or 30 more bleeding sessions may take care of it.
people have had good success pressure bleeding from underneath, so I may try that later.
Brakes fortunately bled nicely, I did break off the bleeder for the RR wheel cylinder, but should be an easy fix, need new rear brakes anyway.
Other news is fuel is completely bled, and now I can focus completely on getting this turbo hooked up and connected
turbo drain complete-
so 2+ years ago before I wrecked the donor 240, I had removed and welded this pipe thread port to the lower oil pan for a turbo drain. 10k miles later in all weather and 2+ years of sitting have put a lot of rust on this unpainted port I also never drilled out. Also any fitting I install will be too close to the subframe.
Lower oil pan is removable in vehicle without terrible difficulty, slides out to the rear reasonably. Lots of room to work with, way more than in the sedan
I ended up carefully tapping a 1/2 pipe threaded hole in the upper pan. Plan was to use a bulkhead fluid fitting, but the access above was good enough to manipulate a tap and tighten a fitting without too much risk to the cast aluminum-
Next order of business is the custom turbo exhaust and intake are a little off as far as bolt holes, and need to be ground out. and one last custom fitting for the turbo oil inlet, plus a restriction plate for oil flow. After that should be plug and play for the turbo
so im at the test fire stage now, and now ive got a few issues to resolve predictably.
first off, my custom exhaust will not work, im going to need to remake this part unfortunately. That final hole that was brazed on will not line up, and no amount of grinding will fix it unless I grind off completely the upper side of the ears inside, which I may try later.
I installed it anyway to get everything ready to fire it.
installed everything and go my oil feed lines hooked up. Feed line is about 6 inches too long, but should be fine-
drain hooked up-
I then went in and trimmed the hole for the transmission shifter for vibration issues Im sure I will encounter when it fires-
Last thing was the vac line between the intake and the ADA. hooked that up, also have an ALDA if I want to play with it, but for now we will see what it does this way
Rotated the engine, oil and coolant put in. Fortunately this christmas tree watering tube works perfectly to put oil in the motor
Also some more good news is that I rotated in 1st gear and was able to verify that I have the 4-1 ratio first, which is the best set of ratios I was hoping to find for the diesel and pretty darn close to stock MB.
Wired it to start, and click, click, click.
The starter will not turn over this motor, removed and bench tested, works fine. Engine turns over by hand easy enough, I may do it a few more times to lube things up, but so far I can't get this ford starter to turn this mercedes motor over. Working on it later today. Other issues are I seem to have pinched something under the valve cover on the turbo side, major oil leak when putting oil in.
So before a test drive, the following major issues need to happen-
bleed clutch properly
figure out starter, either get this one working, or find something else
pull valve cover and stop leak
After I have to fix the exhaust, and get into the rest of the swap like power steering, alternator wiring, ect. Close though!
so got the starter working properly, but still no test fire due to killed 4 batteries and bad connections between a bunch of jumper cables. Decided to take a break, and properly build the battery box behind the passenger seat, then wire it properly first before next attempt. Most of the problem seems to have been bad connections
I turned the engine over manually several times, and after cleaning and lubing the starter, it will turn the motor over, which is good news for later.
In the meantime moved the van outside to return to this project after some consolidation of other projects in the work space, and finally have a look at how it sits from a little distance.
It really needs that 2 inch lift in the rear, and some bigger tires long term I think. the dropped sub frame is not noticable really. This is the bad side, which will get repaired eventually
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
It looks great, even if that front end is a big ol' bucket of ugly(I cannot let this go-that plastic gm front gets me every time
). You should graft a w123 front onto it, or at least stick a big bumper to fill that gap.Advance auto had 25' rolls of 2ga wire for ~$30 last time I checked, you might want to see if that's still the current price. Proper connections are everything, I haven't ever been able to start a 617 with just jumper cables.
What's up with the water connection on the back of the head?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
05-29-2013, 10:30 AM #165On every 617 I've touched, that rear turbo bolt is always loose, you don't reeeeealy need it :p
It looks great, even if that front end is a big ol' bucket of ugly(I cannot let this go-that plastic gm front gets me every time ). You should graft a w123 front onto it, or at least stick a big bumper to fill that gap.
Advance auto had 25' rolls of 2ga wire for ~$30 last time I checked, you might want to see if that's still the current price. Proper connections are everything, I haven't ever been able to start a 617 with just jumper cables.
What's up with the water connection on the back of the head?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
05-29-2013, 11:51 AM #166Can you pull the manifold off and have a machine shop offset drill the hole out? Maybe not enough material to do so?
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
(05-29-2013, 10:30 AM)Simpler=Better On every 617 I've touched, that rear turbo bolt is always loose, you don't reeeeealy need it :p
It looks great, even if that front end is a big ol' bucket of ugly(I cannot let this go-that plastic gm front gets me every time
Advance auto had 25' rolls of 2ga wire for ~$30 last time I checked, you might want to see if that's still the current price. Proper connections are everything, I haven't ever been able to start a 617 with just jumper cables.
What's up with the water connection on the back of the head?
I stole that vac connection from my parts 617, along with that sensor to block up the top of the manifold. What is that for?
Going to raise that front bumper eventually, I go back and forth on how the front now looks, right now Im not a fan. plastic!? just the gill, headlight surrounds, and top of bumper cover. its got approximately the same plastic quotient as a 123, but more painted stuff, less bling. There are billet grills for these things, though if we want to go really ugly, ill move my spare GMC vertical grill over.
Thanks for the tip on advance, going to hit that up today I think and see If I can get things connected. I need short one from battery to starter, from starter housing to iron block grounded (its bolted only to aluminum in the adapter plate), from iron block to body grounded, and from one of these grounds back to battery. total of 4 big wires.
Then I need 2 small wires, one to run all accessories connected to the firewall 12v input, and one starter solenoid wire
The water connection is the stock 616 heater core port, comes out the back and heads to the passenger side for the sedan, I made a pipe to run it up to the heater core port for the van up top
(05-29-2013, 11:51 AM)DeliveryValve Can you pull the manifold off and have a machine shop offset drill the hole out? Maybe not enough material to do so?
I can't really drill the one custom bolt hole, the walls are too thin, but I have been thinking about cutting off all the upper ears except the first one for the other bolt holes, and using the first one to pivot the whole manifold down slightly to thread that dam bolt. Im thinking that it should be ok if I do that. Its just under 1/4 inch too high for the threads, and there should still be plenty of material on the lower side to provide clamping pressure
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(05-29-2013, 10:30 AM)Simpler=Better On every 617 I've touched, that rear turbo bolt is always loose, you don't reeeeealy need it :p
It looks great, even if that front end is a big ol' bucket of ugly(I cannot let this go-that plastic gm front gets me every time
Advance auto had 25' rolls of 2ga wire for ~$30 last time I checked, you might want to see if that's still the current price. Proper connections are everything, I haven't ever been able to start a 617 with just jumper cables.
What's up with the water connection on the back of the head?
I stole that vac connection from my parts 617, along with that sensor to block up the top of the manifold. What is that for?
Going to raise that front bumper eventually, I go back and forth on how the front now looks, right now Im not a fan. plastic!? just the gill, headlight surrounds, and top of bumper cover. its got approximately the same plastic quotient as a 123, but more painted stuff, less bling. There are billet grills for these things, though if we want to go really ugly, ill move my spare GMC vertical grill over.
Thanks for the tip on advance, going to hit that up today I think and see If I can get things connected. I need short one from battery to starter, from starter housing to iron block grounded (its bolted only to aluminum in the adapter plate), from iron block to body grounded, and from one of these grounds back to battery. total of 4 big wires.
Then I need 2 small wires, one to run all accessories connected to the firewall 12v input, and one starter solenoid wire
The water connection is the stock 616 heater core port, comes out the back and heads to the passenger side for the sedan, I made a pipe to run it up to the heater core port for the van up top
(05-29-2013, 11:51 AM)DeliveryValve Can you pull the manifold off and have a machine shop offset drill the hole out? Maybe not enough material to do so?
I can't really drill the one custom bolt hole, the walls are too thin, but I have been thinking about cutting off all the upper ears except the first one for the other bolt holes, and using the first one to pivot the whole manifold down slightly to thread that dam bolt. Im thinking that it should be ok if I do that. Its just under 1/4 inch too high for the threads, and there should still be plenty of material on the lower side to provide clamping pressure
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
For the offset hole, why don't you drill it where it needs to be, but 1/8" larger, then sleeve it back down with a 1/16" wall tube? That way you will seal the exhaust gases and don't have to cut it all up. It's a trick they used to do with bolt holes and valve guides in v8 heads that had thin walls when ported.
If you were closer I could bang that out no problem. Or if I was still up in the 'bucket, they had mills at work.....
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
05-29-2013, 02:25 PM #168When wiring a car from scratch, if you can use overkill wire-always use it. Advance is crazy-their wire prices (when you buy the whole reel) are from like 1998.
For the offset hole, why don't you drill it where it needs to be, but 1/8" larger, then sleeve it back down with a 1/16" wall tube? That way you will seal the exhaust gases and don't have to cut it all up. It's a trick they used to do with bolt holes and valve guides in v8 heads that had thin walls when ported.
If you were closer I could bang that out no problem. Or if I was still up in the 'bucket, they had mills at work.....
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(05-29-2013, 02:25 PM)Simpler=Better When wiring a car from scratch, if you can use overkill wire-always use it. Advance is crazy-their wire prices (when you buy the whole reel) are from like 1998.
For the offset hole, why don't you drill it where it needs to be, but 1/8" larger, then sleeve it back down with a 1/16" wall tube? That way you will seal the exhaust gases and don't have to cut it all up. It's a trick they used to do with bolt holes and valve guides in v8 heads that had thin walls when ported.
If you were closer I could bang that out no problem. Or if I was still up in the 'bucket, they had mills at work.....
ill take a better pic of just how off it is when I disassemble to try and fix it, im not sure there is enough sidewall to the tube to allow much in the way of machining.
however-
It starts.
http://youtu.be/wJqjUGQdqEM
First start in 2.5 years. Shut it down quick because missing bits like that ada line and massive oil leak on passenger side need to take care of immediately
(I dont know how to embed the video)
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(05-29-2013, 02:25 PM)Simpler=Better When wiring a car from scratch, if you can use overkill wire-always use it. Advance is crazy-their wire prices (when you buy the whole reel) are from like 1998.
For the offset hole, why don't you drill it where it needs to be, but 1/8" larger, then sleeve it back down with a 1/16" wall tube? That way you will seal the exhaust gases and don't have to cut it all up. It's a trick they used to do with bolt holes and valve guides in v8 heads that had thin walls when ported.
If you were closer I could bang that out no problem. Or if I was still up in the 'bucket, they had mills at work.....
ill take a better pic of just how off it is when I disassemble to try and fix it, im not sure there is enough sidewall to the tube to allow much in the way of machining.
however-
It starts.
http://youtu.be/wJqjUGQdqEM
First start in 2.5 years. Shut it down quick because missing bits like that ada line and massive oil leak on passenger side need to take care of immediately
(I dont know how to embed the video)
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
05-29-2013, 08:24 PM #170I'll try and find a pic, my method will definitely work for moving that hole over. You will still have to pull the manifold, but it will be less welding than an angle grinder.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
I have been told by an astro owner with a 5-speed stock that the master cylinder plunger should hit horizontal and center with the pedal fully engaged. He also said that even on the stock astro that it was finicky, that there was zero play, and if it didn't depress enough by a millimeter, it would be problem.
The plunger does appear to hit center, BUT, it does not move the clutch enough to actually disengage it. The first thing im going to try is pulling the pedal, and drilling a second hole closer to the firewall in the same area for the plunger to attach, this way the plunger will be that much more depressed when I push the pedal in. Hopefully this helps the issue, if not ill be reworking the construction (curve where it hits the body) of the pedal and or where the plunger attaches.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
so after bleeding a few more times I have a good clutch pedal now, and I am having an issue predicted by a forum member where I cannot mechanically depress the clutch pedal enough to disengage it at the transmission. With a fully bled clutch and hard pedal, I cannot get into gear. Not even close.
I have been told by an astro owner with a 5-speed stock that the master cylinder plunger should hit horizontal and center with the pedal fully engaged. He also said that even on the stock astro that it was finicky, that there was zero play, and if it didn't depress enough by a millimeter, it would be problem.
The plunger does appear to hit center, BUT, it does not move the clutch enough to actually disengage it. The first thing im going to try is pulling the pedal, and drilling a second hole closer to the firewall in the same area for the plunger to attach, this way the plunger will be that much more depressed when I push the pedal in. Hopefully this helps the issue, if not ill be reworking the construction (curve where it hits the body) of the pedal and or where the plunger attaches.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
05-31-2013, 11:51 AM #172Can you swap in a larger clutch MC? More volume at the pedal would give you more movement at the slave. I'm sure the astro guys would take your old stock MC
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(05-31-2013, 11:51 AM)Simpler=Better Can you swap in a larger clutch MC? More volume at the pedal would give you more movement at the slave. I'm sure the astro guys would take your old stock MC
Getting there with the stock master slowly. If I went with another one I might have to weld ears onto it to bolt oddly as its set up on this van, however im doing kind of what you are saying in a different way via altering pushrod length, described below-
small update-
So the first thing I did to try and get the clutch was move the bolt for the master to the pedal into the lower of the two holes on the pedal and get that much further swing. That did nothing, with the engine running I could not get it into gear.
Then looking over the clutch system, I remembered that the push rod for the GM slave is actually a separate piece, a little steel dowel, and why not just put in a longer push rod for the same result?
I pulled out the stock pushrod that came with the slave, which is about 4.5 inches, and have been making progressively longer pushrods by 1/4 inch increments.
4.75 inches got me an ominous click and no gears with the pedal depressed
5.00 inches got rid of the ominous click, but still no gears
5.25 inches got me able to get it into 3rd and 4th if you work at it, and no other gears
5.50 inches got me much easier into 3rd and 4th, and as hard as 5.25 into 1st and 2nd, but no 5th, and no reverse. In those gears clutch engagement seems decent.
Ive been slammed with work, so after that had to quit, but I think 5.75 or even 6 inches will be the golden pushrod length for this clutch. Ill post back when I actually can get it into gear finally and drive around.
Meanwhile, I resolved the massive valve cover leak, and a new massive leak has presented itself from the pressure outlet of the remote oil plate around the threads. That will have to be removed and fixed. Additionally, I have the turbo working now, properly (finally) hooked up the air line from the intake to the ADA, and it spools.
With my sudden work schedule ive been unable to do anything about this van for a week, but i hope to get back to it next week or this weekend and start fixing issues and get it drivable. It now starts like a dream though
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(05-31-2013, 11:51 AM)Simpler=Better Can you swap in a larger clutch MC? More volume at the pedal would give you more movement at the slave. I'm sure the astro guys would take your old stock MC
Getting there with the stock master slowly. If I went with another one I might have to weld ears onto it to bolt oddly as its set up on this van, however im doing kind of what you are saying in a different way via altering pushrod length, described below-
small update-
So the first thing I did to try and get the clutch was move the bolt for the master to the pedal into the lower of the two holes on the pedal and get that much further swing. That did nothing, with the engine running I could not get it into gear.
Then looking over the clutch system, I remembered that the push rod for the GM slave is actually a separate piece, a little steel dowel, and why not just put in a longer push rod for the same result?
I pulled out the stock pushrod that came with the slave, which is about 4.5 inches, and have been making progressively longer pushrods by 1/4 inch increments.
4.75 inches got me an ominous click and no gears with the pedal depressed
5.00 inches got rid of the ominous click, but still no gears
5.25 inches got me able to get it into 3rd and 4th if you work at it, and no other gears
5.50 inches got me much easier into 3rd and 4th, and as hard as 5.25 into 1st and 2nd, but no 5th, and no reverse. In those gears clutch engagement seems decent.
Ive been slammed with work, so after that had to quit, but I think 5.75 or even 6 inches will be the golden pushrod length for this clutch. Ill post back when I actually can get it into gear finally and drive around.
Meanwhile, I resolved the massive valve cover leak, and a new massive leak has presented itself from the pressure outlet of the remote oil plate around the threads. That will have to be removed and fixed. Additionally, I have the turbo working now, properly (finally) hooked up the air line from the intake to the ADA, and it spools.
With my sudden work schedule ive been unable to do anything about this van for a week, but i hope to get back to it next week or this weekend and start fixing issues and get it drivable. It now starts like a dream though
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
06-06-2013, 03:09 PM #174Sweet! I didn't know that about GM masters, that's a good trick. You better have this thing running in time for the PA benzfest
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(06-06-2013, 03:09 PM)Simpler=Better Sweet! I didn't know that about GM masters, that's a good trick. You better have this thing running in time for the PA benzfest
so it turns out that every time you rebleed, the hydraulic system compensates for the longer pushrod. I was barking up the wrong tree with that one.
Ive redone the pedal a few times, removed the master, welded on a bolt flange, put a lower pivot, and each time actually makes the function of the clutch worse or no better.
Now ive decided im going full aftermarket master and floor mounted pedal finally and dispense with the guessing game. Im going with a large bore master, 3/4 inch bore, and a 1-3/32" stroke so im absolutely certain to get as much travel as the slave can get. Then if it fails to work, I can move to a slave with a larger stroke as well.
The combination of a custom flywheel and guesstimated mounted pedal pivot is making it impossible to get things working properly, or at least know what component in the system is inadequate for the clutch arrangement.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(06-06-2013, 03:09 PM)Simpler=Better Sweet! I didn't know that about GM masters, that's a good trick. You better have this thing running in time for the PA benzfest
so it turns out that every time you rebleed, the hydraulic system compensates for the longer pushrod. I was barking up the wrong tree with that one.
Ive redone the pedal a few times, removed the master, welded on a bolt flange, put a lower pivot, and each time actually makes the function of the clutch worse or no better.
Now ive decided im going full aftermarket master and floor mounted pedal finally and dispense with the guessing game. Im going with a large bore master, 3/4 inch bore, and a 1-3/32" stroke so im absolutely certain to get as much travel as the slave can get. Then if it fails to work, I can move to a slave with a larger stroke as well.
The combination of a custom flywheel and guesstimated mounted pedal pivot is making it impossible to get things working properly, or at least know what component in the system is inadequate for the clutch arrangement.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
a floor mounted wildwood setup, with a big 3/4 bore master
![[Image: 001_zps9cb37db5.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/001_zps9cb37db5.jpg.html)
This thing is designed to bolt flat to a floor, and some modification had to be done to allow such a mounting on the van floor. Fortunately with the body lift I had some room to do the below-
First I cut out where it was going to sit-
![[Image: 006-1_zps18f95490.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/006-1_zps18f95490.jpg.html)
Then I made this recessed plate, unfinished here, but you get the idea, hole will be drilled in the back for the master bore, and holes around the flange-
![[Image: 0072-1_zpsf92b2bef.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0072-1_zpsf92b2bef.jpg.html)
on the back side should be plenty of room for the new master, and I may be able to simply bend the existing line around and connect. The wildwood setup comes with 2 different reservoirs, and remote or on master mounting for them. Its a pretty nice kit with a lot of options
![[Image: 009-1_zps64b00329.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/009-1_zps64b00329.jpg.html)
On the inside the pedal will sit at rest just about where the other pedals are-
![[Image: 010-1_zps6e5fbdd1.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/010-1_zps6e5fbdd1.jpg.html)
Im way happier with this arrangement (once its done) than with the stock pedal. this has a lot of adjustment built in, and if it still doesn't get into gear, I know its not an issue with pedal throw. Also its considerably easier to get to vs struggling under the dash
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
here is the new master and pedal assembly-
a floor mounted wildwood setup, with a big 3/4 bore master
This thing is designed to bolt flat to a floor, and some modification had to be done to allow such a mounting on the van floor. Fortunately with the body lift I had some room to do the below-
First I cut out where it was going to sit-
Then I made this recessed plate, unfinished here, but you get the idea, hole will be drilled in the back for the master bore, and holes around the flange-
on the back side should be plenty of room for the new master, and I may be able to simply bend the existing line around and connect. The wildwood setup comes with 2 different reservoirs, and remote or on master mounting for them. Its a pretty nice kit with a lot of options
On the inside the pedal will sit at rest just about where the other pedals are-
Im way happier with this arrangement (once its done) than with the stock pedal. this has a lot of adjustment built in, and if it still doesn't get into gear, I know its not an issue with pedal throw. Also its considerably easier to get to vs struggling under the dash
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
final assembly-
![[Image: 002_zps0febb54b.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/002_zps0febb54b.jpg.html)
installed-
![[Image: 003-5_zps80cce332.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/003-5_zps80cce332.jpg.html)
good room underneath, a bit far down, so ill be mounting a remote reservoir up higher where the original stock master was.
![[Image: 007-1_zps02990132.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/007-1_zps02990132.jpg.html)
feels really weird to have a clutch pedal pivot that way in anything other than an air cooled VW. No doubt eventually ill get used to it
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
floor clutch is all done, now dropping the transmission
final assembly-
installed-
good room underneath, a bit far down, so ill be mounting a remote reservoir up higher where the original stock master was.
feels really weird to have a clutch pedal pivot that way in anything other than an air cooled VW. No doubt eventually ill get used to it
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
W124 om606 HX40 finished and it's a beauty 450bhp/456ft-lbs
maxypriest
06-21-2013, 07:37 AM #178JB3 - bloody fantastic work!
W124 om606 HX40 finished and it's a beauty 450bhp/456ft-lbs
(06-21-2013, 07:37 AM)maxypriest JB3 - bloody fantastic work!
thanks!
some more updates-
so pulled the T5, this was a huge PITA until i removed the heat shielding above and discovered a stud that was hanging up on the bell housing right at the top, after that worked out well, or at least came out with equal difficulty as any transmission, though not as easy as the super light MB manuals. This T5 is 2-3 times heavier
![[Image: 012_zpsbfbfdfa7.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/012_zpsbfbfdfa7.jpg.html)
looking in from the side beforehand, it looked like I could solve this issue If I could just get a thicker release bearing. According to my research, there are apparently two common T5 family types of release bearing, a short and long version commonly found in older applications or fords. A long release bearing might work, but I decided to try a different route first. In this pic you can see that really there is no reason that the short release bearing should not work if I could just modify the mechanical linkage
![[Image: 0012_zpsd205169a.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0012_zpsd205169a.jpg.html)
I decided instead what I would do is modify the release bearing lever, and remove the bend.
(I have also ordered another one in case this does not work, these are pretty common and cheap it seems)
stock-
![[Image: 009_zps718e6fbd.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/009_zps718e6fbd.jpg.html)
![[Image: 008_zps53527a76.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/008_zps53527a76.jpg.html)
and modified-
![[Image: 010_zpsa3663008.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/010_zpsa3663008.jpg.html)
this is the difference in how it now appears installed, original-
![[Image: 006-1_zps864f610b.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/006-1_zps864f610b.jpg.html)
and straightened-
![[Image: 014_zps94f8ad2f.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/014_zps94f8ad2f.jpg.html)
Here is a reference T5 picture from some other application, looks much closer to this distance on the pushrod now-
![[Image: clutch-slave_zpse20fce02.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/clutch-slave_zpse20fce02.jpg.html)
Have not had an opportunity to test yet, but soon
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(06-21-2013, 07:37 AM)maxypriest JB3 - bloody fantastic work!
thanks!
some more updates-
so pulled the T5, this was a huge PITA until i removed the heat shielding above and discovered a stud that was hanging up on the bell housing right at the top, after that worked out well, or at least came out with equal difficulty as any transmission, though not as easy as the super light MB manuals. This T5 is 2-3 times heavier
looking in from the side beforehand, it looked like I could solve this issue If I could just get a thicker release bearing. According to my research, there are apparently two common T5 family types of release bearing, a short and long version commonly found in older applications or fords. A long release bearing might work, but I decided to try a different route first. In this pic you can see that really there is no reason that the short release bearing should not work if I could just modify the mechanical linkage
I decided instead what I would do is modify the release bearing lever, and remove the bend.
(I have also ordered another one in case this does not work, these are pretty common and cheap it seems)
stock-
and modified-
this is the difference in how it now appears installed, original-
and straightened-
Here is a reference T5 picture from some other application, looks much closer to this distance on the pushrod now-
Have not had an opportunity to test yet, but soon
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
06-22-2013, 07:56 PM #180Sooooooooooooooooooooooooooooon!
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(06-22-2013, 07:56 PM)Simpler=Better Sooooooooooooooooooooooooooooon!
Lol, would have buttoned up and tried clutch today but managed to empty entire contents of transmission onto chest and crotch. Damn slip yoke.
Tried a fast one I used to do at work dropping gearbox and driveshaft together so I wouldn't have to drain and refill, but I blew it going back up and popped the drieshaft out right while I was under it.
Lesson for me is you cannot do on the ground what you can do on a lift with a tranny jack.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(06-22-2013, 07:56 PM)Simpler=Better Sooooooooooooooooooooooooooooon!
Lol, would have buttoned up and tried clutch today but managed to empty entire contents of transmission onto chest and crotch. Damn slip yoke.
Tried a fast one I used to do at work dropping gearbox and driveshaft together so I wouldn't have to drain and refill, but I blew it going back up and popped the drieshaft out right while I was under it.
Lesson for me is you cannot do on the ground what you can do on a lift with a tranny jack.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
ok, round 2 a failure. The van did move under its own power in 1st and reverse, but im still having a clutch engagement issue, and Ill be removing the transmission again to inspect
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
![[Image: 0013_zps35dba3b6.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0013_zps35dba3b6.jpg.html)
nothing like a visual confirmation that the flywheel is contacting the adapter plate hardware to raise questions.
I recall a tight clearance, but no touching. Something has clearly changed, haven't pulled the transmission yet, but I did finally buy an appropriate jack, so I should get it done faster this time. Im cursing the day i ever moved this van off the lift
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
well heres a problem. Is it THE problem? time will tell.
nothing like a visual confirmation that the flywheel is contacting the adapter plate hardware to raise questions.
I recall a tight clearance, but no touching. Something has clearly changed, haven't pulled the transmission yet, but I did finally buy an appropriate jack, so I should get it done faster this time. Im cursing the day i ever moved this van off the lift
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
06-27-2013, 10:21 PM #184Time to counter sink that and get some allen heads.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(06-27-2013, 10:21 PM)Simpler=Better Time to counter sink that and get some allen heads.
round 3 a failure as far as getting the into gear, but I did find a blatant issue that has now been taken care of
so dropped the transmission again, and removed the flywheel. look what I found-
![[Image: 003_zps8f4157f4.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/003_zps8f4157f4.jpg.html)
![[Image: 010_zps6048090c.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/010_zps6048090c.jpg.html)
What happened here is im coming from a background of manual tranmsmission mercedes, and this kit having been designed for the 617 is assuming you use some of the parts from the automatic flywheel, needs this ring shown here-
![[Image: 006_zps4f67a4b8.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/006_zps4f67a4b8.jpg.html)
This ring is not used with the manual flywheel, so it never occured to me I needed it, but that 3mm is pretty fricking important!
when I initially torqued down the custom flywheel, I bottomed all 12 bolts into the upper oil pan and block, I did not torque the flywheel completely flat. Earlier I was complaining about the starter not turning the motor over easy, well the reason for that was the 12 flywheel bolts were shaving a groove in the aluminum, and the wobble in the flywheel was causing it to contact the adapter bolts, and shaving a few bits off there as well.
I ended up cutting down the ring and using it as a spacer on the back side for my peace of mind, also on the assumption that this would help my clutch engagement issue a little.
![[Image: 008_zps3743f7f3.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/008_zps3743f7f3.jpg.html)
the result looks good-
before-
![[Image: 002_zps9e106b99.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/002_zps9e106b99.jpg.html)
after-
![[Image: 014_zps0ad426b8.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/014_zps0ad426b8.jpg.html)
buttoned it all back up, and made a crucial mistake, and I think this is my issue with the clutch engagement. I think all my clutch engagement problems have been related to the pilot bearing. I think the splines of the input shaft are bottoming out on the pilot bearing seat with enough pressure to prevent a freewheel spin when the clutch is depressed. Taking the transmission down again to verify distances in this area.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(06-27-2013, 10:21 PM)Simpler=Better Time to counter sink that and get some allen heads.
round 3 a failure as far as getting the into gear, but I did find a blatant issue that has now been taken care of
so dropped the transmission again, and removed the flywheel. look what I found-
What happened here is im coming from a background of manual tranmsmission mercedes, and this kit having been designed for the 617 is assuming you use some of the parts from the automatic flywheel, needs this ring shown here-
This ring is not used with the manual flywheel, so it never occured to me I needed it, but that 3mm is pretty fricking important!
when I initially torqued down the custom flywheel, I bottomed all 12 bolts into the upper oil pan and block, I did not torque the flywheel completely flat. Earlier I was complaining about the starter not turning the motor over easy, well the reason for that was the 12 flywheel bolts were shaving a groove in the aluminum, and the wobble in the flywheel was causing it to contact the adapter bolts, and shaving a few bits off there as well.
I ended up cutting down the ring and using it as a spacer on the back side for my peace of mind, also on the assumption that this would help my clutch engagement issue a little.
the result looks good-
before-
after-
buttoned it all back up, and made a crucial mistake, and I think this is my issue with the clutch engagement. I think all my clutch engagement problems have been related to the pilot bearing. I think the splines of the input shaft are bottoming out on the pilot bearing seat with enough pressure to prevent a freewheel spin when the clutch is depressed. Taking the transmission down again to verify distances in this area.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Also, mail me your spacer ring(or a spare) and I'll turn it nice and pretty for free on the lathe
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
07-02-2013, 10:52 AM #186Yeah, I'm gonna have fun when It's my turn to do this
Also, mail me your spacer ring(or a spare) and I'll turn it nice and pretty for free on the lathe
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(07-02-2013, 10:52 AM)Simpler=Better Yeah, I'm gonna have fun when It's my turn to do this
Also, mail me your spacer ring(or a spare) and I'll turn it nice and pretty for free on the lathe
I don't have another one, I lucked out that I even had one of them! Installed now though.
You will have fun when you do yours, ive been having a blast
Update-
round 4 a success!
Removed the transmission a 3rd time and the problem was immediately clear. You can see here the splines were pressing into the bearing, and actually cut a groove during my last super short test-
![[Image: 003_zps1859adc8.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/003_zps1859adc8.jpg.html)
fortunately I had an extra pilot bushing I could modify, so I removed a total of 8mm from the bushing depth, 3mm to compensate for the ring spacer on the back side, and 5mm to clear the spline and give me a bit of a safety gap.
here is the cooked one next to the modified bushing. Ironically the final depth for the cut bushing is the same as the stock mercedes pilot bearing, 11mm.
![[Image: 005_zps91b59936.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/005_zps91b59936.jpg.html)
here is the difference in depth in the pilot bearing adapter piece, formerly the end of the original bearing was flush with the end of the adapter-
![[Image: 006_zps998a1454.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/006_zps998a1454.jpg.html)
and installed-
![[Image: 007_zpsc8e427af.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/007_zpsc8e427af.jpg.html)
so reassembled everything and im in business! Im solving another large oil leak before I can go on a decent test drive, but it goes into all gears smoothly and engages well!
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(07-02-2013, 10:52 AM)Simpler=Better Yeah, I'm gonna have fun when It's my turn to do this
Also, mail me your spacer ring(or a spare) and I'll turn it nice and pretty for free on the lathe
I don't have another one, I lucked out that I even had one of them! Installed now though.
You will have fun when you do yours, ive been having a blast
Update-
round 4 a success!
Removed the transmission a 3rd time and the problem was immediately clear. You can see here the splines were pressing into the bearing, and actually cut a groove during my last super short test-
fortunately I had an extra pilot bushing I could modify, so I removed a total of 8mm from the bushing depth, 3mm to compensate for the ring spacer on the back side, and 5mm to clear the spline and give me a bit of a safety gap.
here is the cooked one next to the modified bushing. Ironically the final depth for the cut bushing is the same as the stock mercedes pilot bearing, 11mm.
here is the difference in depth in the pilot bearing adapter piece, formerly the end of the original bearing was flush with the end of the adapter-
and installed-
so reassembled everything and im in business! Im solving another large oil leak before I can go on a decent test drive, but it goes into all gears smoothly and engages well!
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
I finally drove this thing and its pretty interesting. I would say it takes some getting used to, but initially a little sluggish, but there is a learning curve like a 240, and I was zipping around decently once I found the right feel for the throttle. I instantly loved it, though I think I might want a better rear end ratio for later. Maybe a 4.10 ratio instead of 3.7. I only got up to 3rd gear, but the transmission feels pretty good, each ratio a bit shorter than the stock MB.
Wont do a highway test until I have all my gauges, and I still have big leak issues related to my remote oil filter plate. I have to take that off and repair it. Just looks like things arent threaded down tight enough, so might be able to do on the motor
here is a short video of the engine from the inside, unfortunately I was plagued by some traffic
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d-58YU9Qy...e=youtu.be
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
So update-
I finally drove this thing and its pretty interesting. I would say it takes some getting used to, but initially a little sluggish, but there is a learning curve like a 240, and I was zipping around decently once I found the right feel for the throttle. I instantly loved it, though I think I might want a better rear end ratio for later. Maybe a 4.10 ratio instead of 3.7. I only got up to 3rd gear, but the transmission feels pretty good, each ratio a bit shorter than the stock MB.
Wont do a highway test until I have all my gauges, and I still have big leak issues related to my remote oil filter plate. I have to take that off and repair it. Just looks like things arent threaded down tight enough, so might be able to do on the motor
here is a short video of the engine from the inside, unfortunately I was plagued by some traffic
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d-58YU9Qy...e=youtu.be
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(07-04-2013, 02:19 PM)OM616 You haven't touched the Governor have you?? Adjusting it to take advantage of the turbo will make it a totally new engine!!!
I haven't done anything to the governor. Basically the engine is stock apart from the turbo manifolds. I need to do this, I have never played with the injection pump, so slightly nervous. Same as the governor mod DIY in the egines forum?
You did this on yours?
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(07-04-2013, 02:19 PM)OM616 You haven't touched the Governor have you?? Adjusting it to take advantage of the turbo will make it a totally new engine!!!
I haven't done anything to the governor. Basically the engine is stock apart from the turbo manifolds. I need to do this, I have never played with the injection pump, so slightly nervous. Same as the governor mod DIY in the egines forum?
You did this on yours?
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(07-04-2013, 02:33 PM)JB3 I haven't done anything to the governor. Basically the engine is stock apart from the turbo manifolds. I need to do this, I have never played with the injection pump, so slightly nervous. Same as the governor mod DIY in the egines forum?
You did this on yours?
Be very careful where you get your information regarding adjusting the Governor on that pump.
Yes..lol I have mine set very aggressively... I barley have to press the pedal at all, it is a TOOOOOTALY different animal with the turbo (GT2056V), governor adjusted, Prechambers modified, cam advanced.
I wrote a paper on how the RW governor works, so far, several members have had good success with their adjustments, some are now even good enough to do, and have done, other members pumps as well.
You will need a special spanner type socket to loosen the Torque Control locking nut. It can be made from a large sparkplug socket.
Do some reading first, and we can help you along the way...
(07-04-2013, 02:33 PM)JB3 I haven't done anything to the governor. Basically the engine is stock apart from the turbo manifolds. I need to do this, I have never played with the injection pump, so slightly nervous. Same as the governor mod DIY in the egines forum?
You did this on yours?
Be very careful where you get your information regarding adjusting the Governor on that pump.
Yes..lol I have mine set very aggressively... I barley have to press the pedal at all, it is a TOOOOOTALY different animal with the turbo (GT2056V), governor adjusted, Prechambers modified, cam advanced.
I wrote a paper on how the RW governor works, so far, several members have had good success with their adjustments, some are now even good enough to do, and have done, other members pumps as well.
You will need a special spanner type socket to loosen the Torque Control locking nut. It can be made from a large sparkplug socket.
Do some reading first, and we can help you along the way...
I will return to things like modding the pump after I get my gearing worked out.
I had thought on my RPO code for the van that i had a 3.73 diff, but after the test drive and sluggish first gear, I just went and verified at the axle tube and I actually have a FAS: 7.5", 3.23 open diff, which is way too low. The engine was originally mated with a 3.69 diff in the stock application, so im thinking a 3.73 would have been perfect, but a 4.10 would give me some nice low end torque for the heavier square body.
The manual trans ratios in the T5 im using are trans code 1352-201 which has really close gear ratios to the stock NA diesel gearboxes-
1-4.03
2-2.37
3-1.49
4-1.00
5-0.86
R-3.76
stock example MB trans gear ratios were-
1-3.90
2-2.30
3-1.41
4-1.00
R-3.66
the only ratios that are heavily off are the diff, 3.23 GM vs 3.69 MB.
If i convert to a 4.10 by swapping the ring and pinion, that should solve some of my sluggishness. If feels sort of if you are taking off in second for first gear as a comparison.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Interesting, thanks!
I will return to things like modding the pump after I get my gearing worked out.
I had thought on my RPO code for the van that i had a 3.73 diff, but after the test drive and sluggish first gear, I just went and verified at the axle tube and I actually have a FAS: 7.5", 3.23 open diff, which is way too low. The engine was originally mated with a 3.69 diff in the stock application, so im thinking a 3.73 would have been perfect, but a 4.10 would give me some nice low end torque for the heavier square body.
The manual trans ratios in the T5 im using are trans code 1352-201 which has really close gear ratios to the stock NA diesel gearboxes-
1-4.03
2-2.37
3-1.49
4-1.00
5-0.86
R-3.76
stock example MB trans gear ratios were-
1-3.90
2-2.30
3-1.41
4-1.00
R-3.66
the only ratios that are heavily off are the diff, 3.23 GM vs 3.69 MB.
If i convert to a 4.10 by swapping the ring and pinion, that should solve some of my sluggishness. If feels sort of if you are taking off in second for first gear as a comparison.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
here is where the battery will live-
![[Image: 0013_zpsfdf0b0d1.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0013_zpsfdf0b0d1.jpg.html)
Here is the battery cage, I went a little overboard on the construction of this and may have heavily overbuilt it, on the left side in the pic there is a reinforced armor plate just in case there is a driveshaft issue. It should be able to take a major hit and be fine.
basically its just a stock MB battery tray in an angle iron structure-
The weight of this thing with the battery included might necessitate an inner piece to sandwich the floor instead of hanging from it
![[Image: 0022_zpscb2fb7f3.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0022_zpscb2fb7f3.jpg.html)
![[Image: 003_zps9a8eb3f4.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/003_zps9a8eb3f4.jpg.html)
The plan is to predrill holes around this for splash shields and make those out of plastic sheet later on. I want to get it in and see if that makes sense.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
so heres what im doing about the battery. Turns out there is not enough room for the big mercedes diesel size battery to sit behind the passenger seat and still have room for the exhaust, so I had to move it to the other side of the driveshaft, even then it was a bit snug.
here is where the battery will live-
Here is the battery cage, I went a little overboard on the construction of this and may have heavily overbuilt it, on the left side in the pic there is a reinforced armor plate just in case there is a driveshaft issue. It should be able to take a major hit and be fine.
basically its just a stock MB battery tray in an angle iron structure-
The weight of this thing with the battery included might necessitate an inner piece to sandwich the floor instead of hanging from it
The plan is to predrill holes around this for splash shields and make those out of plastic sheet later on. I want to get it in and see if that makes sense.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
![[Image: 0013_zpscbb4ab41.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0013_zpscbb4ab41.jpg.html)
battery is a tiny bit snug getting down in there, but fine if its on a slight angle
![[Image: 0022_zps6318566f.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0022_zps6318566f.jpg.html)
armor plate next to driveshaft, pretty close, about 1.5 inchs-
![[Image: 003_zps3f191d35.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/003_zps3f191d35.jpg.html)
this contraption takes up a lot of the available space in this area, but I should still be able to get the larger fuel tank in if I decide I want that
![[Image: 0042_zps43e6da31.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0042_zps43e6da31.jpg.html)
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
here it is installed-
battery is a tiny bit snug getting down in there, but fine if its on a slight angle
armor plate next to driveshaft, pretty close, about 1.5 inchs-
this contraption takes up a lot of the available space in this area, but I should still be able to get the larger fuel tank in if I decide I want that
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Purplecomputer
07-12-2013, 01:10 PM #195You are really going in on this project. I like the work!
good job!
so, ive permanently wired the starting system, and solved a massive oil leak I was having, so now the think can be driven for a distance over a block without fear of draining all the oil out on the street.
Power steering I was hoping to have done today, but im running into continuous issues with those dam metric fittings on the pump. (scrapped the idea of hanging the GM pump, getting the pulleys lined up was not a simple affair, decided I was reinventing the wheel)
so I have a custom high pressure line ready, and my plan is to use the MB fitting on some 3/8ths brake line and do a double flare on the lip, which "should" seal on the inverted flare style fitting that this pump seems to have. Can anybody identify exactly what this metric fitting is called they are using? would be nice to just be able to buy the correct part. I think my route will work, but just in case it doesn't.
after power steering, whats left to do is-
wire up charging system
wire up glow plugs
finish exhaust system
install gauges and or get gauges to work
figure out speedo
swap rear end ring and pinion (long term)
I get the charging and exhaust done and its a daily driver though.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
thanks! would like to have it reliably useful.
so, ive permanently wired the starting system, and solved a massive oil leak I was having, so now the think can be driven for a distance over a block without fear of draining all the oil out on the street.
Power steering I was hoping to have done today, but im running into continuous issues with those dam metric fittings on the pump. (scrapped the idea of hanging the GM pump, getting the pulleys lined up was not a simple affair, decided I was reinventing the wheel)
so I have a custom high pressure line ready, and my plan is to use the MB fitting on some 3/8ths brake line and do a double flare on the lip, which "should" seal on the inverted flare style fitting that this pump seems to have. Can anybody identify exactly what this metric fitting is called they are using? would be nice to just be able to buy the correct part. I think my route will work, but just in case it doesn't.
after power steering, whats left to do is-
wire up charging system
wire up glow plugs
finish exhaust system
install gauges and or get gauges to work
figure out speedo
swap rear end ring and pinion (long term)
I get the charging and exhaust done and its a daily driver though.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
so ive been tinkering around with power steering on this thing for a bit, and had gone so far as adapting a GM pump to a MB pulley. The GM pump sits low on the driver side and it could have worked If I could line the pulley up properly
stock GM
![[Image: 007_zps65f4c2b2.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/007_zps65f4c2b2.jpg.html)
GM pump with MB pulley-
![[Image: 006_zps6a6b058e.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/006_zps6a6b058e.jpg.html)
Unfortunately this is pretty hard to do properly, and ultimately decided I was reinventing the wheel, and put the MB power steering pump back on and adapted a high pressure line to it-
![[Image: 0062_zps242264d7.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0062_zps242264d7.jpg.html)
Line goes up and over to swing behind, I may redo this later, not really satisfied with the routing of this line-
![[Image: 009_zpsa8f7949c.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/009_zpsa8f7949c.jpg.html)
However, power steering is all hooked up and its really nice to have that back, this thing has such a nice turning radius, it was a pleasure to start whipping it around with the power steering finally working.
Also, welded up exhaust, all I ended up doing is having a piece made with a little flex joint that ran back to the stock muffler and it was done. Used the opportunity to fix some rattling mounts that plagued this thing when I was using it with the gas motor. I still need to get in there and build a support bracket for the downpipe off I think the bell housing. Its a solid exhaust, but I would feel more comfortable with less potential stress on the turbo flange.
![[Image: 005_zpsce128de4.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/005_zpsce128de4.jpg.html)
After that installed an aftermarket oil pressure and temp gauge, and I was ready for a day of test/use finally!
Puttered around for a few hours doing errands, where it did fine, took it out on the highway and 5th is really a hopeful gear. cruises along nicely in 4th, but 5th you really need a perfect flat to pull. I think this should improve when I get around to swapping the ring and pinion though, at least a little bit.
So far very pleased, sluggish in first takes getting used to, but I might be able to improve that by getting a new throttle cable or adapting some other style cable that is less sticky.
still need to-
-wire up charging system (priority)
-wire up glow plugs (priority)
-figure out shutting off by key Popping the clutch in first to kill it is effective, but hard on stuff.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
couple updates-
so ive been tinkering around with power steering on this thing for a bit, and had gone so far as adapting a GM pump to a MB pulley. The GM pump sits low on the driver side and it could have worked If I could line the pulley up properly
stock GM
GM pump with MB pulley-
Unfortunately this is pretty hard to do properly, and ultimately decided I was reinventing the wheel, and put the MB power steering pump back on and adapted a high pressure line to it-
Line goes up and over to swing behind, I may redo this later, not really satisfied with the routing of this line-
However, power steering is all hooked up and its really nice to have that back, this thing has such a nice turning radius, it was a pleasure to start whipping it around with the power steering finally working.
Also, welded up exhaust, all I ended up doing is having a piece made with a little flex joint that ran back to the stock muffler and it was done. Used the opportunity to fix some rattling mounts that plagued this thing when I was using it with the gas motor. I still need to get in there and build a support bracket for the downpipe off I think the bell housing. Its a solid exhaust, but I would feel more comfortable with less potential stress on the turbo flange.
After that installed an aftermarket oil pressure and temp gauge, and I was ready for a day of test/use finally!
Puttered around for a few hours doing errands, where it did fine, took it out on the highway and 5th is really a hopeful gear. cruises along nicely in 4th, but 5th you really need a perfect flat to pull. I think this should improve when I get around to swapping the ring and pinion though, at least a little bit.
So far very pleased, sluggish in first takes getting used to, but I might be able to improve that by getting a new throttle cable or adapting some other style cable that is less sticky.
still need to-
-wire up charging system (priority)
-wire up glow plugs (priority)
-figure out shutting off by key Popping the clutch in first to kill it is effective, but hard on stuff.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
07-17-2013, 08:53 AM #198Have you tweaked the pump at all? I know OM616, ronnie, and purplecomputer have tweaked 616 pumps and they like em'
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(07-17-2013, 08:53 AM)Simpler=Better Have you tweaked the pump at all? I know OM616, ronnie, and purplecomputer have tweaked 616 pumps and they like em'
not yet, I need to install boost and egt and see if my turbo might be putting out first
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(07-17-2013, 08:53 AM)Simpler=Better Have you tweaked the pump at all? I know OM616, ronnie, and purplecomputer have tweaked 616 pumps and they like em'
not yet, I need to install boost and egt and see if my turbo might be putting out first
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Yesterday I needed to take a fridge down to a rental property in southern CT from RI. I was excited as this was an ideal test run and shake down cruise.
I went first to a diesel station, and filled to the brim, then drove down to the property, completed the job, and drove back to the same diesel station, same pump, and filled to the brim.
On the way down I did all highway, and the way back I came cross country through hills and two lane back roads. The objective was to see how it performed on both.
I then later went into google maps and duplicated my route to get accurate mileage.
The trip down I traveled 157 miles, and the way back 141 miles for a total of 298 miles. When i filled up I had used 10.14 gallons of diesel, which is an astonishing 29.4 mpg for this thing in its first real trip! The best I had ever done before was 23 mpg, but more typically with the 4.3 the mileage was 18-21mpg. If I had done all highway, it might have broken 30mpg.
This represents a high water mark and I do not believe its sustainable, as the gearing is just not dialed in and its not super easy to drive, too much top end gearing, not enough granny gearing. It got great economy due to the diff, but it could not at any time pull 5th unless downhill and drafting, and is slower than a stock NA 240, but not by much, mostly first gear.
Most of the trip was done in 4th, and hills are rough on this arrangement, requiring you to wind it out a bit. One thing I really need is a tach, the sound level is so different in this tin box of a vehicle with most of the insulation stripped and multiple holes in the floor, that im not sure if im running redline, or just barely touching 3grand rpm. A tach will solve this problem.
When I got back and parked the van, I jumped in my DD 240, and was astonished at how peppy it was and how quiet.
As far as temp, the engine maintained a very steady 170 degrees even though it was about 95 all day, and I went over some really bad stretches of road and today am going to to a check of all custom brackets and fastners, as I rattled the heck out of this thing.
Issues noticed are the suspension settled a bit and the camber of the RF tire is horrendous, so bad it actually skids when you make a right hand turn under any speed. An alignment should take care of that.
First gear takeoff is still a real problem. Its hard to describe, but basically its like starting off a regular 240 in 2nd gear. You have to rev high, and still its a slow start, and you are close to the stall line until you are moving a bit. This is my biggest concern at the moment, its definitely drivable, but absolutely not possible to tow with this thing until I improve the gear ratios. First the diff, then Ill see how it does with the transmission, also going to drop tire sizes same time.
I think monday I will be going to the dump, so ill get a new weight measurement after the conversion and see how its changed, and how much heavier this van is than a regular 123.
does anyone know what the 207D TN vans had for a rear end ratio? Id like to compare once I get my new weight.
Chevy also did 4.57 rear ends, but I would have to custom modify the axle tubes to work with this van, which is not impossible, but still major work, its a heavier rear axle, whereas I can just up the current axle to a 4.10 with just gearing, not change the whole assembly.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
so mileage and test update-
Yesterday I needed to take a fridge down to a rental property in southern CT from RI. I was excited as this was an ideal test run and shake down cruise.
I went first to a diesel station, and filled to the brim, then drove down to the property, completed the job, and drove back to the same diesel station, same pump, and filled to the brim.
On the way down I did all highway, and the way back I came cross country through hills and two lane back roads. The objective was to see how it performed on both.
I then later went into google maps and duplicated my route to get accurate mileage.
The trip down I traveled 157 miles, and the way back 141 miles for a total of 298 miles. When i filled up I had used 10.14 gallons of diesel, which is an astonishing 29.4 mpg for this thing in its first real trip! The best I had ever done before was 23 mpg, but more typically with the 4.3 the mileage was 18-21mpg. If I had done all highway, it might have broken 30mpg.
This represents a high water mark and I do not believe its sustainable, as the gearing is just not dialed in and its not super easy to drive, too much top end gearing, not enough granny gearing. It got great economy due to the diff, but it could not at any time pull 5th unless downhill and drafting, and is slower than a stock NA 240, but not by much, mostly first gear.
Most of the trip was done in 4th, and hills are rough on this arrangement, requiring you to wind it out a bit. One thing I really need is a tach, the sound level is so different in this tin box of a vehicle with most of the insulation stripped and multiple holes in the floor, that im not sure if im running redline, or just barely touching 3grand rpm. A tach will solve this problem.
When I got back and parked the van, I jumped in my DD 240, and was astonished at how peppy it was and how quiet.
As far as temp, the engine maintained a very steady 170 degrees even though it was about 95 all day, and I went over some really bad stretches of road and today am going to to a check of all custom brackets and fastners, as I rattled the heck out of this thing.
Issues noticed are the suspension settled a bit and the camber of the RF tire is horrendous, so bad it actually skids when you make a right hand turn under any speed. An alignment should take care of that.
First gear takeoff is still a real problem. Its hard to describe, but basically its like starting off a regular 240 in 2nd gear. You have to rev high, and still its a slow start, and you are close to the stall line until you are moving a bit. This is my biggest concern at the moment, its definitely drivable, but absolutely not possible to tow with this thing until I improve the gear ratios. First the diff, then Ill see how it does with the transmission, also going to drop tire sizes same time.
I think monday I will be going to the dump, so ill get a new weight measurement after the conversion and see how its changed, and how much heavier this van is than a regular 123.
does anyone know what the 207D TN vans had for a rear end ratio? Id like to compare once I get my new weight.
Chevy also did 4.57 rear ends, but I would have to custom modify the axle tubes to work with this van, which is not impossible, but still major work, its a heavier rear axle, whereas I can just up the current axle to a 4.10 with just gearing, not change the whole assembly.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
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