IP Full Load Adjustment Procedure for the MW and M pumps

K26-2

46

01-14-2012, 04:58 AM #183

(01-13-2012, 10:18 PM)OM616
(01-13-2012, 02:28 PM)toyfreak Awesome!!! Thank you.

OK, this is a perfect example of why there can not be a standard set of adjustment instructions, each governor leaves the factory with a unique combination of settings depending on who on the line built the IP.

On a positive note, when this is straightened out, you should have the ability to evaluate the governor settings prior to doing this again, so you will know which adjustments need to go which way if at all. The lack of this ability (only gained by doing), is what got you in trouble, that and from what it sounds like, trying to duplicate the adjustment that another member posted,

LOL, I was just reviewing the adjustments you posted and see why you do not have any power, but we will get back to that in a min.

Regarding the idle, from what you have posted, it sounds like you did not have positive control of the Idle Governor Screw while you were making the adjustment. The screw will turn when you turn the locking nut, unless you are holding the screw while you are loosening and snugging the lock nut.

The Idle Governor setting is too high and needs to be backed off to lower the regulated Idle speed. Depending on the idle speed it is now, at least 1/2 a turn CCW. You may need to go more, but try that first and see what the idle speed is when the return to idle is how you want it. YOU MUST HOLD THE SCREW WHEN LOOSTENING AND TIGHTNING THE LOCK NUT!!!!!!!!!! If this can not be done, do not try to adjust it again, you will either get lucky, or end up farther out of whack. I bet your Idle governor was set on the strong side and probably needed to be reduced instead of increased, this is how my 617a is, I will have to back the Idle off a touch if I ever tweak it.This is in contrast to 616 IPs where the Idle Governor it week and needs to be increased.

As for the Idle Bump Stop, it does not need to be adjusted unless it is not working, back it off to where it was before. The only time that is needed to be adjusted is if when the engine is revved, and the throttle is quickly brought back to the idle position, the engine stalls, or struggles to "catch" and idle. In that case, the bump stops is too week and needs to be adjusted in a touch.

As for the Torque Control you are good, Max Speed you are good, and Rack Limiter,…., not so good. You went the wrong way, Turn it CW to INCREASE the rack travel (increase fuel), and CCW to DECREASE rack travel (decrease fuel).

Other than that, you are good, lol.

So to recap;

"Here is what I have done so far."

Max speed gov- 1 turn CW.........OK

Torque Control - 3/4 turn CW.......OK

rack limiter - 3 turns CCW......Not OK, Turn CW to Increase Fueling

Idle bump stop - 1/2 CW....Not OK, Turn back to where it was

Idle gov - don't know for sure but not more than 1/2 turn either way..........Totally not OK....Needs to be turned CCW at least 1/2 turn while maintaining positive control of the adjustment screw when loosening and tightening the lock nut.

Vertical throttle stop - 2 turns CCW, but has better return to idle at original position ……… I think you get how the Vertical Throttle Stop sets the return to Idle.

Please post how this turns out, or if you want to talk privately that is ok too. If you do as I recommend you will be fine, then again, free advice is usually worth every penny.

Thanks for taking the time to do this. I really appreciate it. Tomorrow I will pull the IP and readjust the rack and idle bumpstop.

As for the idle gov screw. My problem with no reduction in idle is that with the engine running, I can turn it 1 1/2 to 2 turns in either direction and it will not increase or decrease the idle. I did notice that the idle sounds different when you turn the screw more than 1/2 from where I had it in either direction. So, I got to see how you can completely throw off the idle spring tension by turning it too much. Also, when I make an adjustment to the idle gov, I have a deep socket on the nut and I turn the screw with a screwdriver, holding the nut in place. Once I get the screw where I want it, I snug down the nut by hand, while still holding the screwdriver, and then use the ratchet to tighten it the rest of the way.

I think I will start with the rack and bumpstop, reinstall the IP, check timing, and then see how it acts. I have a feeling the idle bumpstop may be the culprit causing the high idle. When I originally set everything, I had both idle screws set 1/2 turn CW.

I was looking at how others had set theirs previously because I wanted a middle starting point and was too impatient to go a little at a time. Lesson learned I guess.

Thanks again.
Jesse

This post was last modified: 01-14-2012, 05:23 AM by toyfreak.