STD Tuning Engine Harmonic Balancer Orientation Question

Harmonic Balancer Orientation Question

Harmonic Balancer Orientation Question

 
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SixSpeed
K26-2

38
09-19-2010, 08:00 PM #1
Hey Guys,

When I received my Unimog, the crankshaft bolt was broken off in the crankshaft. When I got the truck I pulled the harmonic balancer/pulley assembly off. No big deal as it was keyed. Fast forward about 6 months, and with the bolt out of the crankshaft, it is time to put the balancer back on and get this truck on the road!

Slight problem...the key to align the balancer has gone MIA. So that leaves me with a 50/50 chance of getting it on in the right place. Those odds are not very good!

Any suggestions? Would it be possible to find TDC and use the timing marks or something? HELP!Huh

-Jack Miles : Tampa : Florida :
1963 Unimog 404 TLF-8 - OM617.951 Powered / 8-Speed / Doka Hardcab
Mercedes L1116 L1319
Gassers - '63 'Mog, '65 'Mog / '86 190e 2.3-16 / '87 190e 2.3-16 / '90 190e 2.6/5 
SixSpeed
09-19-2010, 08:00 PM #1

Hey Guys,

When I received my Unimog, the crankshaft bolt was broken off in the crankshaft. When I got the truck I pulled the harmonic balancer/pulley assembly off. No big deal as it was keyed. Fast forward about 6 months, and with the bolt out of the crankshaft, it is time to put the balancer back on and get this truck on the road!

Slight problem...the key to align the balancer has gone MIA. So that leaves me with a 50/50 chance of getting it on in the right place. Those odds are not very good!

Any suggestions? Would it be possible to find TDC and use the timing marks or something? HELP!Huh


-Jack Miles : Tampa : Florida :
1963 Unimog 404 TLF-8 - OM617.951 Powered / 8-Speed / Doka Hardcab
Mercedes L1116 L1319
Gassers - '63 'Mog, '65 'Mog / '86 190e 2.3-16 / '87 190e 2.3-16 / '90 190e 2.6/5 

Rudolf_Diesel
Ask me if I care...

579
09-19-2010, 11:08 PM #2
If you remove the valve cover you can see marks for the cam shaft near the gear on the driver's side, if you line those up it should be able to give you a reading of about 2 degrees on the crankshaft.
This post was last modified: 09-20-2010, 12:10 AM by Rudolf_Diesel.

1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects

1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98

Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
Rudolf_Diesel
09-19-2010, 11:08 PM #2

If you remove the valve cover you can see marks for the cam shaft near the gear on the driver's side, if you line those up it should be able to give you a reading of about 2 degrees on the crankshaft.


1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects

1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98

Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.

 
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