1995 E300D OM606 IP - Lost bolt inside pump!
1995 E300D OM606 IP - Lost bolt inside pump!
This is the injection pump from my 1995 E300D OM606.910. Not sure what model the pump is. I noticed a bolt on the side of the pump was leaking a little oil and wanted to check what the issue was. There is a larger brass bolt that goes into the ip case with a hole in the center of it where a long thin black bolt goes. I did not see that the thin black bolt was held in place with a c-clip and washer. So, when I began unscrewing the outer brass bolt from the IP case, the c-clip popped loose and the thin bolt fell inside!
How serious is this? Can I open the pump up without damaging any of its settings? If I do open the pump, will it need to be filled with oil again? If so what kind? Also is there anything else I should do to the pump while it is out? I have already replaced the delivery valve o-rings with viton o-rings, replaced the delivery valve copper washers, the large square side gasket, and a few other gaskets and o-rings.
The location of the brass outer bolt is indicated in the following photos:
Bolt location.
![[Image: 1995_E300D_IP_1.jpg]](http://i1011.photobucket.com/albums/af231/ryanrod/1995_E300D_IP_Bolt/1995_E300D_IP_1.jpg)
Close up of brass outer bolt.
![[Image: 1995_E300D_IP_2.jpg]](http://i1011.photobucket.com/albums/af231/ryanrod/1995_E300D_IP_Bolt/1995_E300D_IP_2.jpg)
Serial and model #.
![[Image: 1995_E300D_IP_3.jpg]](http://i1011.photobucket.com/albums/af231/ryanrod/1995_E300D_IP_Bolt/1995_E300D_IP_3.jpg)
C-clip and washer that holds inner thin black bolt in place.
![[Image: 1995_E300D_IP_4.jpg]](http://i1011.photobucket.com/albums/af231/ryanrod/1995_E300D_IP_Bolt/1995_E300D_IP_4.jpg)
I also have a concern because I believe the injection timing will be off when I put the pump back on the engine. When removing the IP I had cranked the engine quite a few times at the large 27mm crankshaft bolt on the front of the engine, so I have no idea what cylinder it is on at the moment. What can I do to have everything working together correctly?
Forgive me for my lack of technical terms, Ive never dug quite this deep into the engine before!
Thank you for your help!
Also one note: The large bolt that holds the Injection Pump to the timing chain gear is a REVERSE THREAD bolt! I learned this the hard way by snapping it off with my air tool. Luckily the bolt snapped right off near the head and there was no damage to the pump!
1995 E300D OM606.910 - Black - 212K
![[Image: IMG_4334_440x201.jpg]](http://i1011.photobucket.com/albums/af231/ryanrod/IMG_4334_440x201.jpg)
This is my first post here and I want to thank everyone for their contributions to this site. It has been a huge help. Also since you are experts in the Mercedes injection pump field, I have a question for you.
This is the injection pump from my 1995 E300D OM606.910. Not sure what model the pump is. I noticed a bolt on the side of the pump was leaking a little oil and wanted to check what the issue was. There is a larger brass bolt that goes into the ip case with a hole in the center of it where a long thin black bolt goes. I did not see that the thin black bolt was held in place with a c-clip and washer. So, when I began unscrewing the outer brass bolt from the IP case, the c-clip popped loose and the thin bolt fell inside!
How serious is this? Can I open the pump up without damaging any of its settings? If I do open the pump, will it need to be filled with oil again? If so what kind? Also is there anything else I should do to the pump while it is out? I have already replaced the delivery valve o-rings with viton o-rings, replaced the delivery valve copper washers, the large square side gasket, and a few other gaskets and o-rings.
The location of the brass outer bolt is indicated in the following photos:
Bolt location.
Close up of brass outer bolt.
Serial and model #.
C-clip and washer that holds inner thin black bolt in place.
I also have a concern because I believe the injection timing will be off when I put the pump back on the engine. When removing the IP I had cranked the engine quite a few times at the large 27mm crankshaft bolt on the front of the engine, so I have no idea what cylinder it is on at the moment. What can I do to have everything working together correctly?
Forgive me for my lack of technical terms, Ive never dug quite this deep into the engine before!
Thank you for your help!
Also one note: The large bolt that holds the Injection Pump to the timing chain gear is a REVERSE THREAD bolt! I learned this the hard way by snapping it off with my air tool. Luckily the bolt snapped right off near the head and there was no damage to the pump!
1995 E300D OM606.910 - Black - 212K
remove the stop device on top of the IP, maybe it is still in position.
Or you have to remove the governor. The settings remain as long as you just separate the governor from the IP body. The control rod has to be disconnected through the gap before completely removing the governor.
Tom
this is the shaft of the stop lever
remove the stop device on top of the IP, maybe it is still in position.
Or you have to remove the governor. The settings remain as long as you just separate the governor from the IP body. The control rod has to be disconnected through the gap before completely removing the governor.
Tom
Thank you tomnik for the diagram. I was anticipating this to be way harder than it was!!!
The bolt was in the bottom of that cavity. After removing the governor and stop device, I just turned the pump upside down and shook it until the bolt fell out. Lost a little oil in the process. Then I reconnected the internal linkage and it all came together.
Look:
![[Image: 1995_E300D_IP_5.jpg]](http://i1011.photobucket.com/albums/af231/ryanrod/1995_E300D_IP_Bolt/1995_E300D_IP_5.jpg)
One more question. How does this pump get oil? Does it receive some from the engine somehow or should I pour some inside the unit? And does mercedes sell that #55 o-ring pictured in the diagram? Or is that a bosch part?
-Ryan
1995 E300D OM606.910 - Black - 212K
Success!
Thank you tomnik for the diagram. I was anticipating this to be way harder than it was!!!
The bolt was in the bottom of that cavity. After removing the governor and stop device, I just turned the pump upside down and shook it until the bolt fell out. Lost a little oil in the process. Then I reconnected the internal linkage and it all came together.
Look:
One more question. How does this pump get oil? Does it receive some from the engine somehow or should I pour some inside the unit? And does mercedes sell that #55 o-ring pictured in the diagram? Or is that a bosch part?
-Ryan
1995 E300D OM606.910 - Black - 212K
(08-08-2010, 04:51 PM)ryanrod Success!
Thank you tomnik for the diagram. I was anticipating this to be way harder than it was!!!
The bolt was in the bottom of that cavity. After removing the governor and stop device, I just turned the pump upside down and shook it until the bolt fell out. Lost a little oil in the process. Then I reconnected the internal linkage and it all came together.
Look:
One more question. How does this pump get oil? Does it receive some from the engine somehow or should I pour some inside the unit? And does mercedes sell that #55 o-ring pictured in the diagram? Or is that a bosch part?
-Ryan
It gets oil from the engine through the splined shaft of the IP where it couples to the timing device. You can add some oil via the plug on the side as it may take a little while to get enough oil if it is completely empty.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
Rudolf_Diesel
08-08-2010, 06:00 PM #4(08-08-2010, 04:51 PM)ryanrod Success!
Thank you tomnik for the diagram. I was anticipating this to be way harder than it was!!!
The bolt was in the bottom of that cavity. After removing the governor and stop device, I just turned the pump upside down and shook it until the bolt fell out. Lost a little oil in the process. Then I reconnected the internal linkage and it all came together.
Look:
One more question. How does this pump get oil? Does it receive some from the engine somehow or should I pour some inside the unit? And does mercedes sell that #55 o-ring pictured in the diagram? Or is that a bosch part?
-Ryan
It gets oil from the engine through the splined shaft of the IP where it couples to the timing device. You can add some oil via the plug on the side as it may take a little while to get enough oil if it is completely empty.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
ForcedInduction
08-08-2010, 09:31 PM
#5
Yes, an injection pump should always be prefilled before running. Removing the shutoff actuator makes a great fill location.
1 Guest(s)
1 Guest(s)