STD Exclusive: 15mm sway bar, the unauthorized biography.
STD Exclusive: 15mm sway bar, the unauthorized biography.
I couldn't wait to install it.
Tool list:
Jack, stands, wheel chocks.
17mm socket for the tires
17mm wrench to hold the link end
13mm socket for the bushing caps
The R&R guide can be found here: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.pauldrayton.com/uploadfiles/merc/Service/W123/w123CD2/Program/Chassis/32-310.pdf">http://www.pauldrayton.com/uploadfiles/ ... 32-310.pdf</a><!-- m -->
Note that steps 4/11 can be skipped, the bar will go out and in easily with the exhaust in place. Just spin the bar around so that it is pointing towards the rear. Do not forget to apply new loctite to the bushing cap bolt threads.
Time to complete: 30minutes from the car leaving the ground to the car touching down. Very easy
Now is also the perfect time to upgrade to the metal links, using the plastic links will not hurt,
[attachment=1]<!-- ia1 -->LMN 15mm sway bar 13mm.jpg<!-- ia1 -->[/attachment]
[attachment=2]<!-- ia2 -->LMN 15mm sway bar compare.jpg<!-- ia2 -->[/attachment]
[attachment=0]<!-- ia0 -->LMN 15mm sway bar 15mm.jpg<!-- ia0 -->[/attachment]
Cornering is definitely better and much more flat. I haven't taken it to it's limit yet but it seems worth the money so far.
ForcedInduction
06-13-2008, 05:54 AM
#51
Call the Classic Center and find out (the number is in the picture above). They said there were 5 available in Germany and all 5 were ordered within 3 days. Winmutt and I got one each, who got the other three I have no idea.
I couldn't wait to install it.
Tool list:
Jack, stands, wheel chocks.
17mm socket for the tires
17mm wrench to hold the link end
13mm socket for the bushing caps
The R&R guide can be found here: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.pauldrayton.com/uploadfiles/merc/Service/W123/w123CD2/Program/Chassis/32-310.pdf">http://www.pauldrayton.com/uploadfiles/ ... 32-310.pdf</a><!-- m -->
Note that steps 4/11 can be skipped, the bar will go out and in easily with the exhaust in place. Just spin the bar around so that it is pointing towards the rear. Do not forget to apply new loctite to the bushing cap bolt threads.
Time to complete: 30minutes from the car leaving the ground to the car touching down. Very easy
Now is also the perfect time to upgrade to the metal links, using the plastic links will not hurt,
[attachment=1]<!-- ia1 -->LMN 15mm sway bar 13mm.jpg<!-- ia1 -->[/attachment]
[attachment=2]<!-- ia2 -->LMN 15mm sway bar compare.jpg<!-- ia2 -->[/attachment]
[attachment=0]<!-- ia0 -->LMN 15mm sway bar 15mm.jpg<!-- ia0 -->[/attachment]
Cornering is definitely better and much more flat. I haven't taken it to it's limit yet but it seems worth the money so far.
ForcedInduction
06-13-2008, 06:16 PM
#53
Who did you talk to? If you are an MBCA member they will give you a discount.
Sounds like they realized how rare its become.
ForcedInduction
06-13-2008, 11:38 PM
#55
Ah, winmutt talked to Tom and I talked to Scott.
Sounds like they realized how rare its become.
bgkast I got mine yesterday. I'll put it in next weekend when I do my front end rebuild, vogtlands and engine mounts. Should be a busy weekend.Talk to vstech and get him to sell you a TD front sway bar so you can do that while you are in there.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
bgkast I got mine yesterday. I'll put it in next weekend when I do my front end rebuild, vogtlands and engine mounts. Should be a busy weekend.Talk to vstech and get him to sell you a TD front sway bar so you can do that while you are in there.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
I tossed the car around a quite a bit more than normal yesterday and I couldn't get any tire slide so I'm happy with the better ride of the 15mm rear bar for now.
I'll switch to the progressive rate rear springs whenever I get around to swapping my slightly rusty left trailing arm some day.
ForcedInduction
06-20-2008, 02:33 AM
#58
The front bar is deeper work than I want to go (Drain some coolant, remove booster, remove battery tray, etc). All of which are doing great as-is right now.
I tossed the car around a quite a bit more than normal yesterday and I couldn't get any tire slide so I'm happy with the better ride of the 15mm rear bar for now.
I'll switch to the progressive rate rear springs whenever I get around to swapping my slightly rusty left trailing arm some day.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
Ya I am in the same boat about the work to do it. I may however be installing some 1/2 nub spring pads in the front to fix my rear rake from the Vogtlands once and for all, at which point I will do it. It could be even next year before that happens. I had planned on doing it when the engine was out, however that was the last thing on my mind at the time.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
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