is this turbo junk?
is this turbo junk?
03-22-2010, 06:28 PM
#2
with that much wear i'd be concerned about balance. the bearings life may be compromised because of any vibration, and could lead to premature failure.
now im good with the physics of turbochargers, i know how they work, but i don't have much long-term experience so let 'forced or someone else back me up on this.
1983 300CD "Spike" Stock, as of now.
the blade in the 2'o clock position looks pretty worn. i'd bet it was run without a filter for some time.
with that much wear i'd be concerned about balance. the bearings life may be compromised because of any vibration, and could lead to premature failure.
now im good with the physics of turbochargers, i know how they work, but i don't have much long-term experience so let 'forced or someone else back me up on this.
1983 300CD "Spike" Stock, as of now.
03-22-2010, 07:12 PM
#3
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
Rudolf_Diesel
03-22-2010, 07:12 PM #3Get rid of it and buy my t3/t4
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
03-22-2010, 08:08 PM
#5
Love to buy a T3/T4, but I have managed to dig a pit and pile a mountain of broken and non functional auto parts in on top of me! When I resurface, maybe you will still have it for sale!
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Ive got two of them about the same level of erosion, figure ill put the least rusted one in service for the moment then.
Love to buy a T3/T4, but I have managed to dig a pit and pile a mountain of broken and non functional auto parts in on top of me! When I resurface, maybe you will still have it for sale!
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
ForcedInduction
03-22-2010, 10:49 PM
#6
Looks like its rubbibg the housing. Take off the housing and check.
03-29-2010, 01:25 AM
#7
it actually wont take much to unbalance a turbo, something as simple as not clocking the wheels correctly when re assembling a turbo can cause imbalance. when the Compressor and turbine wheels spin at 100,000 rpm, balance is important. If its touching the housing AT ALL, it will fail muuuch faster. also, check the play In and out, which is more important than side to side.
03-29-2010, 01:34 AM
#8
(03-29-2010, 01:25 AM)Paperjam it actually wont take much to unbalance a turbo, something as simple as not clocking the wheels correctly when re assembling a turbo can cause imbalance. when the Compressor and turbine wheels spin at 100,000 rpm, balance is important. If its touching the housing AT ALL, it will fail muuuch faster. also, check the play In and out, which is more important than side to side.
Having the wheels not clocked cannot kill an otherwise healthy turbo. I've swapped compressor wheels several times and never had a balance issue. Remember all these parts are individually balanced, the remaining stack-up imbalance is tiny.
You have to have worn out bushings to rub the housing. Worn out bushings don't happen if the oil supply is good and the wheels still have all their fins. It takes a lack of oil pressure and/or severely damaged shaft/wheels to do that.
(03-29-2010, 01:25 AM)Paperjam it actually wont take much to unbalance a turbo, something as simple as not clocking the wheels correctly when re assembling a turbo can cause imbalance. when the Compressor and turbine wheels spin at 100,000 rpm, balance is important. If its touching the housing AT ALL, it will fail muuuch faster. also, check the play In and out, which is more important than side to side.
Having the wheels not clocked cannot kill an otherwise healthy turbo. I've swapped compressor wheels several times and never had a balance issue. Remember all these parts are individually balanced, the remaining stack-up imbalance is tiny.
You have to have worn out bushings to rub the housing. Worn out bushings don't happen if the oil supply is good and the wheels still have all their fins. It takes a lack of oil pressure and/or severely damaged shaft/wheels to do that.
03-29-2010, 10:13 AM
#9
ForcedInduction
03-29-2010, 10:13 AM
#9
The parts are balanced individually on 99% of factory turbos. Its easy to tell if the assembly is match balanced, the compressor nut will have material cut off of one side. If the nut is whole you can swap wheels without worry of keeping alignment or the need to rebalance.
03-29-2010, 02:32 PM
#10
(03-29-2010, 10:13 AM)ForcedInduction The parts are balanced individually on 99% of factory turbos. Its easy to tell if the assembly is match balanced, the compressor nut will have material cut off of one side. If the nut is whole you can swap wheels without worry of keeping alignment or the need to rebalance.
The "nut cut" is for residual or stack-up balance, all of the parts are still individually balanced.
The turbos I've swapped wheels on all had trimmed compressor nuts. Because the compressor nut is the closest part to the turbo axis it's the part that has the least effect on balance. You can carve a lot off a lot and it does nothing compared to the same material removal on the wheel rim 25-30mm further out.
(03-29-2010, 10:13 AM)ForcedInduction The parts are balanced individually on 99% of factory turbos. Its easy to tell if the assembly is match balanced, the compressor nut will have material cut off of one side. If the nut is whole you can swap wheels without worry of keeping alignment or the need to rebalance.
The "nut cut" is for residual or stack-up balance, all of the parts are still individually balanced.
The turbos I've swapped wheels on all had trimmed compressor nuts. Because the compressor nut is the closest part to the turbo axis it's the part that has the least effect on balance. You can carve a lot off a lot and it does nothing compared to the same material removal on the wheel rim 25-30mm further out.
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