some newbie questions about OM6xx swap
some newbie questions about OM6xx swap
Are the mounts and bellhousing hookups for the OM61x and OM60x the same? Like could I start out with a OM617 and later move to a OM606. (yes I know one is a 5cyl and another is a 6cyl, i'm also curious if things are just the same mounts in a different position)
How well do they tow with ADDED power? I have thoughts of putting one in an older 1/2 ton (when half tons were lighter like the 90's under 4000lbs in a 2wd) or midsize pickup for instance, with thoughts of towing as much as 5000-7000lbs on occasion. Not all the time, but definite periodic use a few times per year lets say 3-6 times on average, plus lesser trailers twice a month or so. By towing with added power I mean i'd like to be able to rely on 180hp or so for minutes at a time up a hill with a load (comparable to a gas v6 really) instead of 13 second 1/4 mile runs with more power. Does anyone think that would be a problem?
I know this is a car engine not a cummins, and yes I want car diesel like sensibilities because this will be far more of a daily driver or driven without pulling a trailer far more often, let alone heavy or up hills for minutes. I'm just wondering things like if the OM617 is alot better due to all iron construction, or I assume to tow at higher rpm's than a cummins lugging things at 1600rpm. I guess i'm wondering how it compares to towing with another car diesel like a VW TDI for instance.
futureswap
10-24-2022, 12:22 AM #1Hi, i've heard of these engines for a long time, and hope to finally have a chance to plan to do something with one in the next 1-3 years. (haven't been in a place I could have project vehicles but that should change)
Are the mounts and bellhousing hookups for the OM61x and OM60x the same? Like could I start out with a OM617 and later move to a OM606. (yes I know one is a 5cyl and another is a 6cyl, i'm also curious if things are just the same mounts in a different position)
How well do they tow with ADDED power? I have thoughts of putting one in an older 1/2 ton (when half tons were lighter like the 90's under 4000lbs in a 2wd) or midsize pickup for instance, with thoughts of towing as much as 5000-7000lbs on occasion. Not all the time, but definite periodic use a few times per year lets say 3-6 times on average, plus lesser trailers twice a month or so. By towing with added power I mean i'd like to be able to rely on 180hp or so for minutes at a time up a hill with a load (comparable to a gas v6 really) instead of 13 second 1/4 mile runs with more power. Does anyone think that would be a problem?
I know this is a car engine not a cummins, and yes I want car diesel like sensibilities because this will be far more of a daily driver or driven without pulling a trailer far more often, let alone heavy or up hills for minutes. I'm just wondering things like if the OM617 is alot better due to all iron construction, or I assume to tow at higher rpm's than a cummins lugging things at 1600rpm. I guess i'm wondering how it compares to towing with another car diesel like a VW TDI for instance.
X Double Dot
10-24-2022, 10:59 AM #2I have a very similar swap to what you're looking to build (94 toyota T100 4x4) with an OM606. 100% don't recommend a manual for a truck towing application, torque 800-1000 is rather poor, way worse than the 3.0 v6 that came out of the truck. I did tow a 5000lb boat this morning with it, it does pretty well once going, a little better than my v8 4runner pulling up hills. getting going in first requires more clutch slip than i'd like, but with an automatic i think it would be just fine. (google om606 T100 if you want to see my swap)
I was originally thinking either an NV3500 for a stick or just a TH700-R4 (or even 4L80 if power went up) along with decently low gearing like 3.73 or 4.11's to get things moving. I don't have to tow at 75mph either, I mean not for a heavier or big aero load, though for lighter trailers it'd be a time saver. A normal gasoline stall converter is probably suitable since I thought diesels were usually a lower stall, so I wouldn't want to use the one from the 6.2L which probably stalls lower.
I'm mostly trying to keep things as simple and low cost to get started as possible, with the ability to upgrade later if things work out.
How hard would it be to pull your engine back out and replace it, i've seen some diesel swaps put in with shoehorns and was hoping to not go that far. I fully expect at some point in the future it would come out again and be replaced with another used engine with good lifespan remaining.
futureswap
10-24-2022, 03:00 PM #3Thank you for the heads up... I had not immediately considered the off-idle torque but that would make sense. What would you say the usable powerband is/whats your shifting points and such in gear? Whats your top speed in 1st for overall gearing/leverage?
I was originally thinking either an NV3500 for a stick or just a TH700-R4 (or even 4L80 if power went up) along with decently low gearing like 3.73 or 4.11's to get things moving. I don't have to tow at 75mph either, I mean not for a heavier or big aero load, though for lighter trailers it'd be a time saver. A normal gasoline stall converter is probably suitable since I thought diesels were usually a lower stall, so I wouldn't want to use the one from the 6.2L which probably stalls lower.
I'm mostly trying to keep things as simple and low cost to get started as possible, with the ability to upgrade later if things work out.
How hard would it be to pull your engine back out and replace it, i've seen some diesel swaps put in with shoehorns and was hoping to not go that far. I fully expect at some point in the future it would come out again and be replaced with another used engine with good lifespan remaining.
I've had 4.3 and currently 3.91 for my rear axle ratio. Tire size 32". I had to go 3.91's to keep the rpm down on the highway. In hindsight I think 4.1 would be a better fit to help first gear takeoff.
I've had the engine in and out at least 5 times during the fit up. As seen in my thread I made the front hood latch area removeable, that was the only way to get the engine in and out
X Double Dot
10-25-2022, 08:11 AM #4I find I normally shift before 3000rpm, 3500 the other day when I was towing the boat.
I've had 4.3 and currently 3.91 for my rear axle ratio. Tire size 32". I had to go 3.91's to keep the rpm down on the highway. In hindsight I think 4.1 would be a better fit to help first gear takeoff.
I've had the engine in and out at least 5 times during the fit up. As seen in my thread I made the front hood latch area removeable, that was the only way to get the engine in and out
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