Head is at machine shop, I need some answers.
Head is at machine shop, I need some answers.
I have the cylinder head at the machine shop. Its from my 83 300sd.
The head is from another car because I had the camshaft and pedestals destroy themselves due to the vac pump bearing getting stuck in the timing chain.
Anyway, the head is at the machine shop and I want them to do a full rebuil.
I got them new seals and guides.
The thing I need to know is, the machine shop says Mercedes recommends putting in NEW valve and not to gring them. Is this true? What has everyone else done for a valve job. I told the machine shop owner, that I would get on the forums and find out.
You should have sent your head to someone who knows what they are doing (metric motors).
Considering there is a whole section (05-280) on checking/measuring and machining valves in the FSM, I would like to know what they base this on.
Because its a valve job.
Isnt this what the forums are for is help?
All he said was that he talked to Mercedes and they recommend new valve due to them being sodium filled.
I was looking for an answer from people who have done a valve job before.
Besides, metric motors is way overpriced. I'm sure they know what they are doing, but I cant justify $1000 for a rebuilt head. Heck I just put a brand new, o-ringed, ported and polished, 5 angle valve job, titanium retainers 60# valve springs, backcut valves and a Cummins headgasket for $1000, on my CTD, THATS TOP OF THE LINE!
Metric motors is the business. I have done a fair amount of research into this before I decided in my case an engine swap was the cheapest route. The FSM lists the minimum values for wear before replacement. Tell him to call MB Classic Parts in Irivine, those guys really know their stuff. I wouldn't trust a dealerships answer on this.
I have the FSM. I am going to look up the info, print it out and give it to him.
I know MM is the place, but I cant justify that kind of money for an '83 mercedes diesel, that only gets driven once and awhile.
There was also an tech notice about adjusting the angles if the valves were noisy, Tomnik I think posted it. There was some speculation that it could increase power?
I can believe that the sodium-filled valves should not be grinded, but the intake valves are not sodium-filled. But is it really necessary to grind the valves, often it`s not necessarry, When I opened my 603, the valves had no visible wear, and the seats had almost nothing, strange, but the engine had 410 000 km.
If the valves have no cisible wear, i`ve just told them to grind the seats.
It`s smart to grind them for the "seal ring" in the valve seat is coming as far out on the valve as possible, for maximum performance.
isn't it just the valve stem that is sodium filled???? how would that affect grinding on the seating area?