The Sleeper -- The New Project
The Sleeper -- The New Project
(11-08-2012, 10:07 AM)JB3Didn't mean to hijack- Actually, I did this on my '82 for it's last 6 months, I just left the belt off because the box was leaking like a sieve. No idea if that increased the wear or not-she didn't live long enough to find out. yes it gives you arms like popeye, and scares the shit out of anyone else who tries to drive the car(11-08-2012, 08:39 AM)Simpler=Better Besides the ratios, is there anything wrong with running the PS box and a small reservoir of fluid, eliminating the pumps and lines?
I did this in my 86 jetta, making the power rack into a manual and deep sixing the power arrangement.
The power ratios are manageable, but I think its ok because of the cars microscopic size and weight, and even then its quite hard to move at low speeds and certainly to park. No women have been able to drive it and a number of girlish men also.
If you were to do the same with something the size and weight of a 123, I bet you would have major trouble, going with a full manual ratio steering box is definitely the way I would go.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(11-08-2012, 10:07 AM)JB3Didn't mean to hijack- Actually, I did this on my '82 for it's last 6 months, I just left the belt off because the box was leaking like a sieve. No idea if that increased the wear or not-she didn't live long enough to find out. yes it gives you arms like popeye, and scares the shit out of anyone else who tries to drive the car(11-08-2012, 08:39 AM)Simpler=Better Besides the ratios, is there anything wrong with running the PS box and a small reservoir of fluid, eliminating the pumps and lines?
I did this in my 86 jetta, making the power rack into a manual and deep sixing the power arrangement.
The power ratios are manageable, but I think its ok because of the cars microscopic size and weight, and even then its quite hard to move at low speeds and certainly to park. No women have been able to drive it and a number of girlish men also.
If you were to do the same with something the size and weight of a 123, I bet you would have major trouble, going with a full manual ratio steering box is definitely the way I would go.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Maybe I got a really nice box. This is the last version of the manual box based upon the P#'s, but while driving, it was not horrible. Actually, over 20 MPH, it really was not that different. I will get a good test run home after its installed to give a report since my mini-experiement was just driving around the block in my old car.
(11-07-2012, 08:36 PM)Greazzer ..... My price is negotiable since I want to get rid of as much clutter in my garage to generate $$$ for very serious maintenance, e.g., brakes & exhaust right now.
(11-08-2012, 10:44 AM)Greazzer Maybe I got a really nice box. This is the last version of the manual box based upon the P#'s, but while driving, it was not horrible. Actually, over 20 MPH, it really was not that different. I will get a good test run home after its installed to give a report since my mini-experiement was just driving around the block in my old car.
(11-07-2012, 08:36 PM)Greazzer ..... My price is negotiable since I want to get rid of as much clutter in my garage to generate $$$ for very serious maintenance, e.g., brakes & exhaust right now.
(11-08-2012, 10:44 AM)Greazzer Maybe I got a really nice box. This is the last version of the manual box based upon the P#'s, but while driving, it was not horrible. Actually, over 20 MPH, it really was not that different. I will get a good test run home after its installed to give a report since my mini-experiement was just driving around the block in my old car.
Hey,
I am keeping this junker stock as to wheels. It is not worth the time or money for this upgrade ! It does need brakes. I have the calipers already. Lifetimers from Autozone. I can get the rotors for $48 for both. I just need brand new lines and pads.
Anything I should know about the conversion since this is permanent and not just a quicky drive around the block. ??????
First Gen w126 front brakes are a direct bolt on with nothing else special needed. The vented rotors are the same diameter to the stock w123. No need for bigger wheels.
Since you are disturbing the hydraulic system for rubber line for replacement and replacing the rotors. It would be a good time to consider this.
You can get everything from Autozone reasonably. My stuff is used and has been lying around for a while. The rotors have plenty of meat left but developed some surface rust. I've slapped on similar conditioned rotors and through use, it cleaned up very well on the face.
.
(11-08-2012, 10:44 AM)Greazzer Maybe I got a really nice box. This is the last version of the manual box based upon the P#'s, but while driving, it was not horrible. Actually, over 20 MPH, it really was not that different. I will get a good test run home after its installed to give a report since my mini-experiement was just driving around the block in my old car.
(11-08-2012, 10:44 AM)Greazzer Maybe I got a really nice box. This is the last version of the manual box based upon the P#'s, but while driving, it was not horrible. Actually, over 20 MPH, it really was not that different. I will get a good test run home after its installed to give a report since my mini-experiement was just driving around the block in my old car.
(11-08-2012, 01:21 PM)JB3(11-08-2012, 10:44 AM)Greazzer Maybe I got a really nice box. This is the last version of the manual box based upon the P#'s, but while driving, it was not horrible. Actually, over 20 MPH, it really was not that different. I will get a good test run home after its installed to give a report since my mini-experiement was just driving around the block in my old car.
I think we are both agreeing that the route you are going with an actual real manual steering box was the best move. Certainly I am.
My example before was to say that the disconnected and bypassed power steering (rack in my case) in a car 1/4 the weight and size made it pretty difficult to maneuver unless at speed, so I would imagine in a 123 with a disconnect power box, it would be amazingly difficult, which simpler=better confirms in his 6 month test.
Im going to go the same route as you eventually, and get an actual manual steering rack that has the correct ratios to make it more user friendly
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(11-08-2012, 01:21 PM)JB3(11-08-2012, 10:44 AM)Greazzer Maybe I got a really nice box. This is the last version of the manual box based upon the P#'s, but while driving, it was not horrible. Actually, over 20 MPH, it really was not that different. I will get a good test run home after its installed to give a report since my mini-experiement was just driving around the block in my old car.
I think we are both agreeing that the route you are going with an actual real manual steering box was the best move. Certainly I am.
My example before was to say that the disconnected and bypassed power steering (rack in my case) in a car 1/4 the weight and size made it pretty difficult to maneuver unless at speed, so I would imagine in a 123 with a disconnect power box, it would be amazingly difficult, which simpler=better confirms in his 6 month test.
Im going to go the same route as you eventually, and get an actual manual steering rack that has the correct ratios to make it more user friendly
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Any info out there on how to PROPERLY INSTALL a manual box ??? I am sure there is more to it than 3 bolts and 2 links ???????? The FSM has many pages devoted to it, and some special tools.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Haven't rad the FSM but they're probably just for keeping everything indexed. I'd mark the center point on the box and the PS box, then install.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Mark the center point ? What the heck does that mean ?
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Set your wheels centered, mark how the arm relates to the box. on the one off the car, turn it all the way from left to right, then determine the dead center, and mark that. think like marking an axle yoke before removal
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
So, in other words, take the new box (mechanical box) and turn it all the way to the left then right and keeping track of things, try to figure out the center ???
(11-08-2012, 02:58 PM)Greazzer So, in other words, take the new box (mechanical box) and turn it all the way to the left then right and keeping track of things, try to figure out the center ???
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(11-08-2012, 02:58 PM)Greazzer So, in other words, take the new box (mechanical box) and turn it all the way to the left then right and keeping track of things, try to figure out the center ???
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Tried to get the box in and super problems.
All went well until I tried to put on the coupler. Apparently, the coupler is now 1 1/2" too short or my steering column is 1 1/2 " too short.
Any thoughts. Here is a super crappy picture. I am royally ticked. Got stranded. Had to call the wife. Now, everyone in the house is PO'd and not sure why. WTF
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Well that's a bitch. How'd the clocking part work out?
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Maybe add another one of those flex discs to make up the difference??
Morning everyone,
Puzzled solved in theory. There is a 369mm steering shaft particular to this application whereas I have 322mm. So, my car sat overnight stranded. After taking my Dad to the doctors this AM, I will have to go at it again and re-install the power unit until I can regroup. Very ticked off right now at myself. The peep hole method worked perfectly to line up the center point. Very very simple. I really hate starting a task or project only to be defeated and not get anything done. That's the worst for me. I had this last weekend when I did the valves and injectors. The PO forgot to mention that he or his "Indy" used silicon caulk as a sealant on the VC and VC gasket and that crap was everywhere. Instead of 1-2 hours max, it turned into a 5 hour job. Now, this to start off the weekend. Whine .... LOL. The steering shaft appears to be super simple to remove and install. Just need to find one right now.
(11-09-2012, 07:03 AM)Greazzer Morning everyone,
Puzzled solved in theory. There is a 369mm steering shaft particular to this application whereas I have 322mm. So, my car sat overnight stranded. After taking my Dad to the doctors this AM, I will have to go at it again and re-install the power unit until I can regroup. Very ticked off right now at myself. The peep hole method worked perfectly to line up the center point. Very very simple. I really hate starting a task or project only to be defeated and not get anything done. That's the worst for me. I had this last weekend when I did the valves and injectors. The PO forgot to mention that he or his "Indy" used silicon caulk as a sealant on the VC and VC gasket and that crap was everywhere. Instead of 1-2 hours max, it turned into a 5 hour job. Now, this to start off the weekend. Whine .... LOL. The steering shaft appears to be super simple to remove and install. Just need to find one right now.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(11-09-2012, 07:03 AM)Greazzer Morning everyone,
Puzzled solved in theory. There is a 369mm steering shaft particular to this application whereas I have 322mm. So, my car sat overnight stranded. After taking my Dad to the doctors this AM, I will have to go at it again and re-install the power unit until I can regroup. Very ticked off right now at myself. The peep hole method worked perfectly to line up the center point. Very very simple. I really hate starting a task or project only to be defeated and not get anything done. That's the worst for me. I had this last weekend when I did the valves and injectors. The PO forgot to mention that he or his "Indy" used silicon caulk as a sealant on the VC and VC gasket and that crap was everywhere. Instead of 1-2 hours max, it turned into a 5 hour job. Now, this to start off the weekend. Whine .... LOL. The steering shaft appears to be super simple to remove and install. Just need to find one right now.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Sorry to hear your having trouble with the box.
I guess you need this part number.
A 123 460 48 09 STEERING SHAFT - FOR MANUAL STEERING,BOTTOM
A 123 462 12 96 BOOT - MECHANICAL STEERING
Where else for reference sakes, you currently have this.
A 123 460 47 09 STEERING SHAFT - FOR POWER STEERING,BOTTOM
A 123 462 13 96 BOOT - POWER STEERING
.
Your the man Richard ! LOL
(11-09-2012, 08:18 AM)Simpler=Better(11-09-2012, 07:03 AM)Greazzer Morning everyone,
Puzzled solved in theory. There is a 369mm steering shaft particular to this application whereas I have 322mm.
Glad to hear you got it figured out. Can you cut a junk shaft and weld a pipe over it to make an extension?
(11-09-2012, 08:18 AM)Simpler=Better(11-09-2012, 07:03 AM)Greazzer Morning everyone,
Puzzled solved in theory. There is a 369mm steering shaft particular to this application whereas I have 322mm.
Glad to hear you got it figured out. Can you cut a junk shaft and weld a pipe over it to make an extension?
I got a lead on the steering shaft from the guy I got the box from. Hopefully next week I will have it.
If not, machine shop wants $60 bucks to make one which is super doable, although I prefer no R&D on something like this.
Hopefully he'll come through for you. Larry is not my favorite person.
.
Really ? I like Larry. I see he has got into some "battles" on the forums.
Here is a picture of the 322mm steering shaft. I need the 369mm shaft ...what's another 47mm of shaft anyways.
I think I am going to totally abandon any work on the body since my efforts today revealed how horribly rotten the body is. I will post a picture of the passenger side tomorrow. A 15' footer picture. That was a term used by the PO to describe this little gem.
Here is one picture. I put about 1/2 my weight by kneeling down and the floor went with me. I never had that happen to me in a car.
The picture I will post tomorrow will show what looks like the entire or most of the passenger floor pan hanging about 4-6" from the car. I am afraid to touch the drivers side now. So, I think its time to do all the mechanical stuff and mod's to the engine and start really looking for a rust free donor car. What I got really is not safe to drive.
thats a shame about these cars, the vinyl inner and outer coating on the sheet metal is so thick, that a huge hole looks like a rusty seam, as the metal disappears, but the undercoating keeps everything in place.
that pic I posted earlier showing the entire side of the car metal removed had similar initial rust locations to you as they appeared with a cursory inspection. My hair got progressively whiter as I peeled back the vinyl and found less and less floor.
as an aside observation, I don't know why you are so angry at the PO about this purchase. After reading your thread here and the one on PP, I went and looked up his ad, and it doesn't really make any promises, he even says the price reflects the rare drivetrain, not the body. My reading of the ad shows he indicated it had rusted floor pans, and he even states he was planning to do a body swap into a non rusted body, here's a quote from the sale ad-
"I was planning to do a body swap with "pancakes" the 82 240d I bought from Joe (Thedon) so I will offer it for the value of the mechanical parts....$3500. That is less than I paid to do the motor back when we did the conversion. You can fly in and drive it home. I won't promise something won't go wrong but it is a car that I would hop into and drive to the west coast without worry.
It can provide the basis of a donor to a rust free car or if you wanted to drive it as is there is no reason you could not. With the carpets in place the floor still gives the impression of being good from the inside. The seams are showing rust from below though. The drivers seat is still solid so the rot has not progressed to that point yet. There is also some hail damage on the roof and hood but If I did not tell you you might easily have not noticed."
My reason in bringing this up is you both have respected and well known forum presences on various MB forums, it would be a shame to have a huge public falling out over something like this.
My #1 agenda if I were you would be to verify the condition of the motor, and do a full compression test. Clearly you think the engine is tired, yet you have several times discussed how peppy it is, so this needs to be ironed out first thing I think, and it might change your reflection on the car. On PP you sort of said you compression tested 1 cyl, but did you do them all? Even there, the compression was within specs.
2K is not pocket change, but on the other hand, I paid over 400 bucks for my 38lb flywheel alone and was pleased with that, which would be nearly a quarter of the whole price you paid for the car.
If you were to buy an engine alone from a yard, it would be 4-600 bucks, and it wouldn't be rebuilt like this one supposedly is, add in the unobtanium transmission and all related bits, and if you were to source all that stuff individually, im sure you would definitely be at the 1500-1800 mark. 2k seems to me a reasonably fair price for the drivetrain you got your hands on. You didn't get a super deal, but then again, neither did he.
You should put the guts into a wagon with an SLS delete, now that would be an awesome DD.
Well, the floor on the passenger side "fell" down about 6" inches from the weight of the passenger seat while sitting overnight.
The engine is tired. I stayed up super late and did a compression test. Not one is over 330 but none is below 300. A rebuilt engine should be a lot better than that. My last MB with +350K and burning WVO over 4 years beat that.
The PO got a machined and balanced 38 # FW also and that was hand delivered to him right after I got off the plane. So, including postage, insurance and all of that, he really got a $500 item.
As for the 5 speed, the box is beat relative to 3rd to 2nd or 1st to 2nd when doing 10-15 mph.
So, assuming my gauge is accurate, I got a tired NA engine. The Getrag 717.400, although nice, it stinks when you cannot shift it without skipping a gear or getting a grind.
But, all this doesn't really matter now. I have to part the car out. When 40 pounds from the passenger seat causes the floor to drop out, it is not safe to drive. I could pull out the the safety belt with a tug from the passenger seat and pull it out with a super tug from the driver's.
And, btw, read his post and the floors, rockers, jackposts, are rotten and the rot goes deep inside the shell. No where does he list a car with this much rot and rust. What was truly discourteous was driving down the road after 80 miles and realzing the fuel gauge didnt bundge is that I called to be told that "Ah, I forgot to tell you ... the gauge is broken" and the trunk doesnt open so that is why the tire is camped in the front of the car. This is all academic now.
Overall, I wasted about 2 weeks, $2000 + FW minus whatever I can get out of the car. Right now, it's $220 a ton. Not a great deal. My time is the most valuable asset I got and I could have dumped that time into something worth while.
What the heck. It's only stuff and stuff comes and goes. I enjoy these old cars and I did learn a thing or two and realized how great this forum and others are for the members' knoweldge and helpfulness. My .02 cents worth.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
It's another parts car then. Seriously, call up VSTech he was going on about them crushing more of his cars-a 78 300D and an 85 TD shell
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/3047...st559.html
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
I have contacted John. I am going to his house this Saturday or SOONER. My wife is going to shoot me for "having" to buy another MB. It is really not even a parts car since everything is either rusted, rotted, broken, or just junky except a limited list of items.
The seats as listed are super nice and so is the PS system and front L regulator. Other than that, slim pickens.
Such is life in the slow lane ... LOL.
Just got a few comments on PP about my posting there, and one from Dropnosky. John is right. I really did get a super deal on that car, so this will terminate any more comments about "The Sleeper". I do thank those who helped me in the technical area. I am pulling the drivetrain today after work and getting my $220 per ton tomorrow. I will have the PS system for sale, but that is all that is sellable. Please PM me if interested.
Refreshing & Updating this Thread.
It is planned for this Saturday, December 8, 2012, that "The Sleeper" will venture its last 91 miles of driving to the land of VSTECH. There, its drive train will be transplanted into a donor car. I got my AAA card at the ready and verified I got 100 miles worth of towing -- LOL.
PLEASE send me any parts you are looking for since assuming all goes well, I am planning another trip within the following week or 2 to strip it of what I want / need and its carcus is going to be made into fine soup cans.
PLEASE PM or Email me. Prices will be very reasonable, shipping will be prompt, and just trying to part it out at this juncture. I will get some good 15 footer pictures before its last journey.
Thanks !!!!
(10-29-2012, 11:17 AM)DeliveryValve(10-29-2012, 08:50 AM)Greazzer .......
I really need a picture of what the throttle accerator set up is supposed to look like on the 300D NA. I found in my garage in a big box of junk a spare, but I dont think the M pump and MW pump setups are the same. I have the turbo set up. Thanks anyway. This is the BEST forum out there. Period.
ANY Pictures PLEASE !!!!!!
Thanks again,
Without the EGR controls
.
(10-29-2012, 11:17 AM)DeliveryValve(10-29-2012, 08:50 AM)Greazzer .......
I really need a picture of what the throttle accerator set up is supposed to look like on the 300D NA. I found in my garage in a big box of junk a spare, but I dont think the M pump and MW pump setups are the same. I have the turbo set up. Thanks anyway. This is the BEST forum out there. Period.
ANY Pictures PLEASE !!!!!!
Thanks again,
Without the EGR controls
.
Yes it is nice and clean !! No Highjack Sir ... all is good. Find me a set up please ! Mr. Delivery .... please ? I would like to get this squared away during operation switch a roo.
(12-04-2012, 09:24 AM)Greazzer Yes it is nice and clean !! No Highjack Sir ... all is good. Find me a set up please ! Mr. Delivery .... please ? I would like to get this squared away during operation switch a roo.Hey, sorry for taking so long to get back to you. I went to the yard and it looks as if someone has bent the linkage (all but one rod) trying to get something out. It's pretty corroded now that someone stole the hood as well.
(12-04-2012, 09:24 AM)Greazzer Yes it is nice and clean !! No Highjack Sir ... all is good. Find me a set up please ! Mr. Delivery .... please ? I would like to get this squared away during operation switch a roo.Hey, sorry for taking so long to get back to you. I went to the yard and it looks as if someone has bent the linkage (all but one rod) trying to get something out. It's pretty corroded now that someone stole the hood as well.
Hey,
No probs!
Are the manifolds NON-EGR ? If not, no worries since I already got a set from a forum member. I am going to be returning mine once I do the swap. BUT, I got to weld both manifolds so that might save me some hassle if they are NON-EGRs.
(12-04-2012, 12:57 AM)Captain America ....
Sorry for the Highjack, Mark. But Mr. Delivery, is there a list of cars without the EGR linkage throttle control? I would like that setup for mine! SO CLEAN, SO SIMPLE
(12-04-2012, 12:57 AM)Captain America ....
Sorry for the Highjack, Mark. But Mr. Delivery, is there a list of cars without the EGR linkage throttle control? I would like that setup for mine! SO CLEAN, SO SIMPLE
Hey DV,
How "tuf" is re-working the W116 linkage ?
I meant reworking the linkage for Cap's application. Although I now realize he still has the auto trans. Which changing stuff over would mess with the Bowden cable.
However there is a possibility it could be adapted to your setup Mark. You can use your current pivot arm on the valve cover leading to the injection pump and incorporate the turbo style rod leading to the firewall.
Here is what I had in mind for cap. Pic courtesy of charmulu.
Much simpler but lacks Bowden cable attachment points.
For a more direct movement, The w116 300sd linkage does have a rubber bushing in between the rod that goes to the firewall and the pivot arm on the valve cover. I think there is a possibility to bolt that setup together. I've seen a pic of it around the net in the past. I would need the linkage on hand to confirm it.
.
Thanks Richard !!!
If there is a will, then there is a way. I just helped out a forum member from PP do his valves during my lunch break. He has a 300CD with 300 NA. His linkage is bolted paraelle to the firewall. I also sold a set of injectors to someone local in Columbia, SC on Sunday and he had a 300D NA, 4 door sedan circa 1979 with the same set up. Instead of the throttle bushing on the firewall and linkage rod perpendicular to the firewall, his ran paraelle with it. Would this set up work ?
I'm still trying to figure out what the linkages going across the valve cover do???
No clue. What seems so simple and much cleaner is turning into a royal PITA !
(12-05-2012, 03:25 PM)sassparilla_kid I'm still trying to figure out what the linkages going across the valve cover do???
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(12-05-2012, 03:25 PM)sassparilla_kid I'm still trying to figure out what the linkages going across the valve cover do???
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Just chop that shit off and call it a day
Haha you guys are funny. "Just chop that shit off..." Sounds like me, lol.
Thank you Sir Richard. I do have an auto trans but am not worried about he Bowden cable. See, I would like to hook a throttle cable directly to the linkage to "chop out" the rod that goes from the firewall to the valve cover linkage. Guess I'll just fab my own plate that the throttle cable would hook to (bolted to top of valve cover) and then attach it to the ball thats already on the throttle/stop rocker. I should be able to hook the Bowden cable up to the same spot.
I'll get it figured out, was just hoping there was something I could grab like the picture I reposted.
There is WAY to much slop in the stock linkage for my liking!