STD Tuning Engine om617 swap problems

om617 swap problems

om617 swap problems

 
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carlitosgy6
Ranger Turbodiesel

144
09-05-2011, 05:30 PM #1
hi im swapping a om617951 into my 2000 ranger ,its almost done,i want it to run so i can continue with the rest,i activate the glow plugs,wait a minute,crank the engine and just some white smoke from the turbo exhaust,then i tried to give some fuel by pulling the stop lever and bang,but dies,then i tried to keep pulling the stop lever and it started but no idle,sputtering and smoking a lot,i need to hold the lever for a minute and then release the lever and tries to idle,goes up and down really low ,slowly begins to idle better,but a lot of smoke,its smoking black all the time at idle,if you pull the lever hard thats a lot of black smoke,if i let it cool for 45 minutes i need to activate the plugs again and all the process again, somebody can help me?
carlitosgy6
09-05-2011, 05:30 PM #1

hi im swapping a om617951 into my 2000 ranger ,its almost done,i want it to run so i can continue with the rest,i activate the glow plugs,wait a minute,crank the engine and just some white smoke from the turbo exhaust,then i tried to give some fuel by pulling the stop lever and bang,but dies,then i tried to keep pulling the stop lever and it started but no idle,sputtering and smoking a lot,i need to hold the lever for a minute and then release the lever and tries to idle,goes up and down really low ,slowly begins to idle better,but a lot of smoke,its smoking black all the time at idle,if you pull the lever hard thats a lot of black smoke,if i let it cool for 45 minutes i need to activate the plugs again and all the process again, somebody can help me?

ronnie
GT2559V

179
09-05-2011, 05:57 PM #2
Being that is a swap, I would have to wonder did you bleed the fuel lines, and also bleed the ip, and injector lines? If you have then I would check the fuel pressure. Also check for any obstruction in the intake, maybe a rag stuffed in the turbo to keep dirt out, and forgotten. I did that once, and it was a detriot, what fun getting that back out.
ronnie
09-05-2011, 05:57 PM #2

Being that is a swap, I would have to wonder did you bleed the fuel lines, and also bleed the ip, and injector lines? If you have then I would check the fuel pressure. Also check for any obstruction in the intake, maybe a rag stuffed in the turbo to keep dirt out, and forgotten. I did that once, and it was a detriot, what fun getting that back out.

yankneck696
Build it so strong & blow it up good !!!

395
09-05-2011, 06:41 PM #3
Is the intank fuel pump still installed? May need to be replaced with a pipe to work correctly. To test, use a 5 gallon can with hoses to the supply & return to isolate it & purge all air.

Ed
yankneck696
09-05-2011, 06:41 PM #3

Is the intank fuel pump still installed? May need to be replaced with a pipe to work correctly. To test, use a 5 gallon can with hoses to the supply & return to isolate it & purge all air.

Ed

carlitosgy6
Ranger Turbodiesel

144
09-05-2011, 06:47 PM #4
yes i bled all the air on each line,im using an electrical pump taking fuel from a gallon all hoses clear,im not using the stock tank now,and i can see the turbo impeller,no rag
This post was last modified: 09-05-2011, 06:49 PM by carlitosgy6.
carlitosgy6
09-05-2011, 06:47 PM #4

yes i bled all the air on each line,im using an electrical pump taking fuel from a gallon all hoses clear,im not using the stock tank now,and i can see the turbo impeller,no rag

dude99
TA 0301

64
09-05-2011, 07:23 PM #5
How do you have the glow plugs hooked up?
dude99
09-05-2011, 07:23 PM #5

How do you have the glow plugs hooked up?

DeliveryValve
Superturbo

1,338
09-05-2011, 07:28 PM #6
Sounds like the vacuum shut off is engaging. Leave the vacuum line to it unplugged.




.

Gota love Mercedes Diesels!



.
DeliveryValve
09-05-2011, 07:28 PM #6

Sounds like the vacuum shut off is engaging. Leave the vacuum line to it unplugged.




.


Gota love Mercedes Diesels!



.

carlitosgy6
Ranger Turbodiesel

144
09-05-2011, 07:41 PM #7
the vaccum shut off its disconected ,i have all the wires of the plugs to one copper connector activated by a ford starter relay,they are working, if i dont activate the plugs the engine dont fire, its normal to use the plugs to start the engine 40 minutes after shutting off the engine?
This post was last modified: 09-05-2011, 09:06 PM by carlitosgy6.
carlitosgy6
09-05-2011, 07:41 PM #7

the vaccum shut off its disconected ,i have all the wires of the plugs to one copper connector activated by a ford starter relay,they are working, if i dont activate the plugs the engine dont fire, its normal to use the plugs to start the engine 40 minutes after shutting off the engine?

ronnie
GT2559V

179
09-06-2011, 05:41 AM #8
Yes it is normal to use the glow plugs 40 minutes later. On a really good engine on a hot day it should start without them.

Have you checked to see if all of them work?
ronnie
09-06-2011, 05:41 AM #8

Yes it is normal to use the glow plugs 40 minutes later. On a really good engine on a hot day it should start without them.

Have you checked to see if all of them work?

carlitosgy6
Ranger Turbodiesel

144
09-06-2011, 07:52 AM #9
i really think some are bad because you can feel some getting hot and some not
i will try to replace the glow plugs,do a valve adjustment and purge it and see how it works
This post was last modified: 09-06-2011, 07:54 AM by carlitosgy6.
carlitosgy6
09-06-2011, 07:52 AM #9

i really think some are bad because you can feel some getting hot and some not


i will try to replace the glow plugs,do a valve adjustment and purge it and see how it works

DeliveryValve
Superturbo

1,338
09-06-2011, 12:18 PM #10
Did you see the engine run before you removed it?

Sometimes it is a matter of cranking the engine over in long durations and pumping the hand pump to make sure all the air is out to start the engine. But certainly if a couple of glow plugs are out, it will make starting harder.



.

Gota love Mercedes Diesels!



.
DeliveryValve
09-06-2011, 12:18 PM #10

Did you see the engine run before you removed it?

Sometimes it is a matter of cranking the engine over in long durations and pumping the hand pump to make sure all the air is out to start the engine. But certainly if a couple of glow plugs are out, it will make starting harder.



.


Gota love Mercedes Diesels!



.

aaa
GT2256V

913
09-06-2011, 03:04 PM #11
Sounds like timing. Possibly along with bad plugs. Any glowplug problems should clear up after you run it for 30 secs or so, it should not keep smoking afterwards.
aaa
09-06-2011, 03:04 PM #11

Sounds like timing. Possibly along with bad plugs. Any glowplug problems should clear up after you run it for 30 secs or so, it should not keep smoking afterwards.

smoke026
When the Cat's away the mice will play!

94
09-06-2011, 04:37 PM #12
(09-05-2011, 05:57 PM)ronnie and also bleed the ip,

Is there a write up somewhere to bleeding the IP?
smoke026
09-06-2011, 04:37 PM #12

(09-05-2011, 05:57 PM)ronnie and also bleed the ip,

Is there a write up somewhere to bleeding the IP?

carlitosgy6
Ranger Turbodiesel

144
09-06-2011, 04:52 PM #13
(09-06-2011, 03:04 PM)aaa Sounds like timing. Possibly along with bad plugs. Any glowplug problems should clear up after you run it for 30 secs or so, it should not keep smoking afterwards.

injection timing?advanced or retarded?this engine is too quiet, it sound more like a modern diesel,not clunky as other mercs when are idling in a stop light next to me,if i walk like ten feet from the tailgate its really quiet and has no exhaust, plain turbo
carlitosgy6
09-06-2011, 04:52 PM #13

(09-06-2011, 03:04 PM)aaa Sounds like timing. Possibly along with bad plugs. Any glowplug problems should clear up after you run it for 30 secs or so, it should not keep smoking afterwards.

injection timing?advanced or retarded?this engine is too quiet, it sound more like a modern diesel,not clunky as other mercs when are idling in a stop light next to me,if i walk like ten feet from the tailgate its really quiet and has no exhaust, plain turbo

ronnie
GT2559V

179
09-06-2011, 05:08 PM #14
Bleeding the ip, use primer pump, or in your case electric pump, loosen fuel return line and let air out. Then you should loosen all injector lines. then crank until fuel sqirts out each one, close while cranking after air is out. Safety glasses are a good idea for this.

I am assuming the engine ran good before you swapped it. If you have not run the engine before swapping then you may well have other problems.

retarded timing will give white/grey smoke at idle, will smell strongly of fuel. As the timing chain wears it will stretch and timing of the ip gets retarded, as well as the camshaft. There may even be an offset key in the sprocket on the cam. The offset key corrects cam timing but will not help ip timing. If a good mechanic did the offset key then he/she would have also checked ip timing.
ronnie
09-06-2011, 05:08 PM #14

Bleeding the ip, use primer pump, or in your case electric pump, loosen fuel return line and let air out. Then you should loosen all injector lines. then crank until fuel sqirts out each one, close while cranking after air is out. Safety glasses are a good idea for this.

I am assuming the engine ran good before you swapped it. If you have not run the engine before swapping then you may well have other problems.

retarded timing will give white/grey smoke at idle, will smell strongly of fuel. As the timing chain wears it will stretch and timing of the ip gets retarded, as well as the camshaft. There may even be an offset key in the sprocket on the cam. The offset key corrects cam timing but will not help ip timing. If a good mechanic did the offset key then he/she would have also checked ip timing.

carlitosgy6
Ranger Turbodiesel

144
09-06-2011, 06:59 PM #15
i take a video maybe its going to give more clues,and i didnt saw the engine run
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nSMaSj09-...er&list=UL
maybe the man that sold me this engine knows he has a problem with it,i think it was cheap at 425 including starter odometer,just everything
This post was last modified: 09-06-2011, 07:39 PM by carlitosgy6.
carlitosgy6
09-06-2011, 06:59 PM #15

i take a video maybe its going to give more clues,and i didnt saw the engine run
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nSMaSj09-...er&list=UL


maybe the man that sold me this engine knows he has a problem with it,i think it was cheap at 425 including starter odometer,just everything

carlitosgy6
Ranger Turbodiesel

144
09-06-2011, 08:03 PM #16
advancing is to the left or to the right?
carlitosgy6
09-06-2011, 08:03 PM #16

advancing is to the left or to the right?

aaa
GT2256V

913
09-06-2011, 08:31 PM #17
Advance is tilting towards the engine.
aaa
09-06-2011, 08:31 PM #17

Advance is tilting towards the engine.

carlitosgy6
Ranger Turbodiesel

144
aaa
GT2256V

913
09-06-2011, 08:38 PM #19
Is it loping like that on it's own? Sounds like the rpm is going up and down.
aaa
09-06-2011, 08:38 PM #19

Is it loping like that on it's own? Sounds like the rpm is going up and down.

carlitosgy6
Ranger Turbodiesel

144
09-06-2011, 08:44 PM #20
yes,when its cold i need to keep the engine high like a car with no choke and when it began to hold on idle itself goes up and down really bad and sometimes dies,the engine its fully hot in the video
if i need to change the ip i have a few but really i dont understand the link you sent me to install it on time aaa
This post was last modified: 09-06-2011, 08:46 PM by carlitosgy6.
carlitosgy6
09-06-2011, 08:44 PM #20

yes,when its cold i need to keep the engine high like a car with no choke and when it began to hold on idle itself goes up and down really bad and sometimes dies,the engine its fully hot in the video


if i need to change the ip i have a few but really i dont understand the link you sent me to install it on time aaa

aaa
GT2256V

913
09-07-2011, 04:41 AM #21
Did you do this part?
aaa
09-07-2011, 04:41 AM #21

Did you do this part?

carlitosgy6
Ranger Turbodiesel

144
09-07-2011, 05:59 PM #22
what your are trying to say is if i prime the new pump i just need to check if its dripping from #1 hole in the ip,and if i have the engine at 24 degrees before,i can slip the pump in place?you can explain me the use of this tool? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-...19c5f24525
This post was last modified: 09-07-2011, 06:13 PM by carlitosgy6.
carlitosgy6
09-07-2011, 05:59 PM #22

what your are trying to say is if i prime the new pump i just need to check if its dripping from #1 hole in the ip,and if i have the engine at 24 degrees before,i can slip the pump in place?you can explain me the use of this tool? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-...19c5f24525

aaa
GT2256V

913
09-07-2011, 06:15 PM #23
The fact that runs at all means that you've installed it pretty close. So turn the engine to 24 and see how fast it drips when you pump the primer there, if at all.


The tool is for newer pumps. There's a port on the side of the pump where it screws in and locks onto a tab inside when it's turned to a certain position. The position of the crank when using the tool is different, 15 ATDC probably (not sure what it'd be for 617).
aaa
09-07-2011, 06:15 PM #23

The fact that runs at all means that you've installed it pretty close. So turn the engine to 24 and see how fast it drips when you pump the primer there, if at all.


The tool is for newer pumps. There's a port on the side of the pump where it screws in and locks onto a tab inside when it's turned to a certain position. The position of the crank when using the tool is different, 15 ATDC probably (not sure what it'd be for 617).

carlitosgy6
Ranger Turbodiesel

144
09-07-2011, 06:17 PM #24
(09-07-2011, 05:59 PM)carlitosgy6 what your are trying to say is if i prime the new pump i just need to check if its dripping from #1 hole in the ip,and if i have the engine at 24 degrees before,i can slip the pump in place?you can explain me the use of this tool? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-...19c5f24525

i just bought it
carlitosgy6
09-07-2011, 06:17 PM #24

(09-07-2011, 05:59 PM)carlitosgy6 what your are trying to say is if i prime the new pump i just need to check if its dripping from #1 hole in the ip,and if i have the engine at 24 degrees before,i can slip the pump in place?you can explain me the use of this tool? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-...19c5f24525

i just bought it

carlitosgy6
Ranger Turbodiesel

144
09-07-2011, 08:04 PM #25
I really appreciate the effort that you people have put in my problem,aaa,delivery valve,ronnie,yank,all of you, THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
one big thing,if i remove an ip and disturbe it,disturbe is to rotate the pump to a unknown position ,how i find the place to put the pump again in the correct place on the engine and on the pump so when its close to the correct timing i can slip the pump in the engine and then do the dripping test,and the same example is for a replacement of an ip,this is going to be a good goal if i get it because i can try with other pumps that i know they are good
and before i change the pump im gonna make the drip test so i can find where is this creepy pump
This post was last modified: 09-07-2011, 08:05 PM by carlitosgy6.
carlitosgy6
09-07-2011, 08:04 PM #25

I really appreciate the effort that you people have put in my problem,aaa,delivery valve,ronnie,yank,all of you, THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
one big thing,if i remove an ip and disturbe it,disturbe is to rotate the pump to a unknown position ,how i find the place to put the pump again in the correct place on the engine and on the pump so when its close to the correct timing i can slip the pump in the engine and then do the dripping test,and the same example is for a replacement of an ip,this is going to be a good goal if i get it because i can try with other pumps that i know they are good


and before i change the pump im gonna make the drip test so i can find where is this creepy pump

ronnie
GT2559V

179
09-08-2011, 07:26 PM #26
look up rack damper, this can cause idle to go up and down. there is an upgrade if I remember right for this. It is an external ip part.

Must say it is rare for the IP (injection pump) to be bad, so would be cautious about changing it, unless it can be proven to be bad.

To remove set engine to 24 degrees before top dead center on no. one cylinder. Use timing marks on damper.

the ip has a mark on the shaft, and a mark on the housing close to where the shaft comes out. there is also a gap in the teeth of the drive coupling, line up all marks. now it can be installed, then checked for timing by the drip method.

If this were my engine, I would do the following in this order,

check fuel pressure with engine running
do a compression test
replace any bad glow plugs
check rack damper

You can post your figures if you like
ronnie
09-08-2011, 07:26 PM #26

look up rack damper, this can cause idle to go up and down. there is an upgrade if I remember right for this. It is an external ip part.

Must say it is rare for the IP (injection pump) to be bad, so would be cautious about changing it, unless it can be proven to be bad.

To remove set engine to 24 degrees before top dead center on no. one cylinder. Use timing marks on damper.

the ip has a mark on the shaft, and a mark on the housing close to where the shaft comes out. there is also a gap in the teeth of the drive coupling, line up all marks. now it can be installed, then checked for timing by the drip method.

If this were my engine, I would do the following in this order,

check fuel pressure with engine running
do a compression test
replace any bad glow plugs
check rack damper

You can post your figures if you like

carlitosgy6
Ranger Turbodiesel

144
09-09-2011, 08:31 PM #27
about the ip i dont think its bad,i just think somebody touched the pump in a wrong way and its out of tune,today i made a valve adjustment and all was out of adjustment and one was with no clearance at all,also put new glow plugs,i dont know why it was more difficult to start but when started it accelerated better, but the smoke was there,and the lopey idle, im going to get to an isolated area of the town and tommorrow im going to make a lubro moly diesel purge,and then see whats happen
and cracked open one by one the injectors lines and all are bleed all cylinders working
and ronnie thank you for let know how to install an IP
This post was last modified: 09-09-2011, 09:26 PM by carlitosgy6.
carlitosgy6
09-09-2011, 08:31 PM #27

about the ip i dont think its bad,i just think somebody touched the pump in a wrong way and its out of tune,today i made a valve adjustment and all was out of adjustment and one was with no clearance at all,also put new glow plugs,i dont know why it was more difficult to start but when started it accelerated better, but the smoke was there,and the lopey idle, im going to get to an isolated area of the town and tommorrow im going to make a lubro moly diesel purge,and then see whats happen


and cracked open one by one the injectors lines and all are bleed all cylinders working
and ronnie thank you for let know how to install an IP

carlitosgy6
Ranger Turbodiesel

144
09-10-2011, 01:48 PM #28
i make today a lubro moly purge,no difference,it runs like crap,i think i have a dying engine,im going to buy a compression tester
to verify it
carlitosgy6
09-10-2011, 01:48 PM #28

i make today a lubro moly purge,no difference,it runs like crap,i think i have a dying engine,im going to buy a compression tester
to verify it

tomnik
Holset

587
09-11-2011, 03:07 AM #29
Hi,

can you confirm correct timing?
What is your fuel pressure after filter (before IP) at idle?
Are your injectors o.k.?
(I had "new" injectors on my engine recently and after some days it ran crappy. The last thing I did was pop pressure/spray test the injectors and one was bad).

Let's assume someone touched the IP governor. I bet it was the full load screw. After checking the basics I'd just reduce the full load adjustment.

Tom
tomnik
09-11-2011, 03:07 AM #29

Hi,

can you confirm correct timing?
What is your fuel pressure after filter (before IP) at idle?
Are your injectors o.k.?
(I had "new" injectors on my engine recently and after some days it ran crappy. The last thing I did was pop pressure/spray test the injectors and one was bad).

Let's assume someone touched the IP governor. I bet it was the full load screw. After checking the basics I'd just reduce the full load adjustment.

Tom

carlitosgy6
Ranger Turbodiesel

144
09-11-2011, 09:50 AM #30
sometimes it runs away and sometimes dies,im going to do the timing today
the tool needed for this timing thing can be done with one of the lines?because its not dripping its streaming from 24 degrees
This post was last modified: 09-11-2011, 10:28 AM by carlitosgy6.
carlitosgy6
09-11-2011, 09:50 AM #30

sometimes it runs away and sometimes dies,im going to do the timing today


the tool needed for this timing thing can be done with one of the lines?because its not dripping its streaming from 24 degrees

carlitosgy6
Ranger Turbodiesel

144
09-11-2011, 12:52 PM #31
i installed another ip exactly on the same spot than the other one and its doing the same.i need to turn the idle screw completely in like the other ip, they almost feel exactly the same, also i swapped the injectors,i will try to remove the pump and installing in another spot
carlitosgy6
09-11-2011, 12:52 PM #31

i installed another ip exactly on the same spot than the other one and its doing the same.i need to turn the idle screw completely in like the other ip, they almost feel exactly the same, also i swapped the injectors,i will try to remove the pump and installing in another spot

carlitosgy6
Ranger Turbodiesel

144
09-11-2011, 05:14 PM #32
if i am correct the ip was off a lot i checked in the bench and the ip squirt fuel in the #1 cylinder when the mark on the back of the ip matches the missing tooth on the ip gear, i put the engine at 0 with the cam lobes pointing up and inserted the ip on the block.the engine started but misfiring a lot im sure i need to move the ip position but i dont know what direction
carlitosgy6
09-11-2011, 05:14 PM #32

if i am correct the ip was off a lot i checked in the bench and the ip squirt fuel in the #1 cylinder when the mark on the back of the ip matches the missing tooth on the ip gear, i put the engine at 0 with the cam lobes pointing up and inserted the ip on the block.the engine started but misfiring a lot im sure i need to move the ip position but i dont know what direction

tomnik
Holset

587
09-11-2011, 10:56 PM #33
the marks on the IP (missing tooth...) gives you begin of delivery of the IP.
This means you have to turn the engine to 24 deg before DTC (cyl. #1 in compression stroke, as you did correctly, but you set it to 0 deg).
This means now you are too late by 24 deg.
The IP has to go out again, the slots are only a few deg.
Later you do the fine adjustment with the drip method.
Rotating the IP in the slots towards the engine advances...

You are getting closer and closer.

Tom
tomnik
09-11-2011, 10:56 PM #33

the marks on the IP (missing tooth...) gives you begin of delivery of the IP.
This means you have to turn the engine to 24 deg before DTC (cyl. #1 in compression stroke, as you did correctly, but you set it to 0 deg).
This means now you are too late by 24 deg.
The IP has to go out again, the slots are only a few deg.
Later you do the fine adjustment with the drip method.
Rotating the IP in the slots towards the engine advances...

You are getting closer and closer.

Tom

carlitosgy6
Ranger Turbodiesel

144
09-12-2011, 06:36 AM #34
(09-11-2011, 10:56 PM)tomnik the marks on the IP (missing tooth...) gives you begin of delivery of the IP.
This means you have to turn the engine to 24 deg before DTC (cyl. #1 in compression stroke, as you did correctly, but you set it to 0 deg).
This means now you are too late by 24 deg.
The IP has to go out again, the slots are only a few deg.
Later you do the fine adjustment with the drip method.
Rotating the IP in the slots towards the engine advances...

You are getting closer and closer.

Tom
this missing tooth is aprox at 10:30 and the pump was at 5:30 and the freaking engine runs and drives,i went to 65 mph cruising but drinking diesel like coke,im going to do today the pump at 24 deg. and i know its going to work
carlitosgy6
09-12-2011, 06:36 AM #34

(09-11-2011, 10:56 PM)tomnik the marks on the IP (missing tooth...) gives you begin of delivery of the IP.
This means you have to turn the engine to 24 deg before DTC (cyl. #1 in compression stroke, as you did correctly, but you set it to 0 deg).
This means now you are too late by 24 deg.
The IP has to go out again, the slots are only a few deg.
Later you do the fine adjustment with the drip method.
Rotating the IP in the slots towards the engine advances...

You are getting closer and closer.

Tom
this missing tooth is aprox at 10:30 and the pump was at 5:30 and the freaking engine runs and drives,i went to 65 mph cruising but drinking diesel like coke,im going to do today the pump at 24 deg. and i know its going to work

carlitosgy6
Ranger Turbodiesel

144
09-12-2011, 12:26 PM #35
i installed the pump at 24 deg before and make the drip adjustment andthe engine works almost perfect,noisy as all the mercedes on the area,but almost no smoke , Big Grin thank you everybodyBig Grin
This post was last modified: 09-12-2011, 12:27 PM by carlitosgy6.
carlitosgy6
09-12-2011, 12:26 PM #35

i installed the pump at 24 deg before and make the drip adjustment andthe engine works almost perfect,noisy as all the mercedes on the area,but almost no smoke , Big Grin thank you everybodyBig Grin

tomnik
Holset

587
09-12-2011, 02:08 PM #36
it is unbelievable at what miss-adjustment these things still fire.
Now you can play with timing to get it more quiet (retard).
Also injectors help a lot.

Tom
tomnik
09-12-2011, 02:08 PM #36

it is unbelievable at what miss-adjustment these things still fire.
Now you can play with timing to get it more quiet (retard).
Also injectors help a lot.

Tom

carlitosgy6
Ranger Turbodiesel

144
09-12-2011, 07:45 PM #37
I LIKE THE NOISE ,but its not a big noise its really quiet,its smoking a little,i can fix that with timing? it have good power,the turbo noise make me happy,the gearing of my truck feels perfect for this engine,its 3.73 with 295-50-15 tires,i just like it
carlitosgy6
09-12-2011, 07:45 PM #37

I LIKE THE NOISE ,but its not a big noise its really quiet,its smoking a little,i can fix that with timing? it have good power,the turbo noise make me happy,the gearing of my truck feels perfect for this engine,its 3.73 with 295-50-15 tires,i just like it

charliebob
Naturally-aspirated

11
09-13-2011, 05:33 PM #38
Please post some pictures of your Ranger swap. I have been thinking of doing a similar swap for some time.
Thanks.
charliebob
09-13-2011, 05:33 PM #38

Please post some pictures of your Ranger swap. I have been thinking of doing a similar swap for some time.
Thanks.

carlitosgy6
Ranger Turbodiesel

144
09-13-2011, 06:47 PM #39
(09-13-2011, 05:33 PM)charliebob Please post some pictures of your Ranger swap. I have been thinking of doing a similar swap for some time.
Thanks.
YOU HAVE A RANGER?WHAT YEAR?auto or manual?what engine?i will post pictures in the weekend

carlitosgy6
09-13-2011, 06:47 PM #39

(09-13-2011, 05:33 PM)charliebob Please post some pictures of your Ranger swap. I have been thinking of doing a similar swap for some time.
Thanks.
YOU HAVE A RANGER?WHAT YEAR?auto or manual?what engine?i will post pictures in the weekend

charliebob
Naturally-aspirated

11
09-13-2011, 07:48 PM #40
(09-13-2011, 06:47 PM)carlitosgy6
(09-13-2011, 05:33 PM)charliebob Please post some pictures of your Ranger swap. I have been thinking of doing a similar swap for some time.
Thanks.
YOU HAVE A RANGER?WHAT YEAR?auto or manual?what engine?i will post pictures in the weekend

Actually I don't have a Ranger at the moment, but I have a OM617 and trans with only 139k miles. Powertrain is complete and running, just waiting on a body!

I look forward to your pictures. Thanks.
charliebob
09-13-2011, 07:48 PM #40

(09-13-2011, 06:47 PM)carlitosgy6
(09-13-2011, 05:33 PM)charliebob Please post some pictures of your Ranger swap. I have been thinking of doing a similar swap for some time.
Thanks.
YOU HAVE A RANGER?WHAT YEAR?auto or manual?what engine?i will post pictures in the weekend

Actually I don't have a Ranger at the moment, but I have a OM617 and trans with only 139k miles. Powertrain is complete and running, just waiting on a body!

I look forward to your pictures. Thanks.

fte
Naturally-aspirated

14
09-14-2011, 10:09 AM #41
(09-13-2011, 07:48 PM)charliebob
(09-13-2011, 06:47 PM)carlitosgy6
(09-13-2011, 05:33 PM)charliebob Please post some pictures of your Ranger swap. I have been thinking of doing a similar swap for some time.
Thanks.
YOU HAVE A RANGER?WHAT YEAR?auto or manual?what engine?i will post pictures in the weekend

Actually I don't have a Ranger at the moment, but I have a OM617 and trans with only 139k miles. Powertrain is complete and running, just waiting on a body!

I look forward to your pictures. Thanks.

I set my i/p timing to 27deg in my swap and the motor came alive! It was a little louder at idle, but not bad. MPG stayed the same, but way more power at low rpm.
fte
09-14-2011, 10:09 AM #41

(09-13-2011, 07:48 PM)charliebob
(09-13-2011, 06:47 PM)carlitosgy6
(09-13-2011, 05:33 PM)charliebob Please post some pictures of your Ranger swap. I have been thinking of doing a similar swap for some time.
Thanks.
YOU HAVE A RANGER?WHAT YEAR?auto or manual?what engine?i will post pictures in the weekend

Actually I don't have a Ranger at the moment, but I have a OM617 and trans with only 139k miles. Powertrain is complete and running, just waiting on a body!

I look forward to your pictures. Thanks.

I set my i/p timing to 27deg in my swap and the motor came alive! It was a little louder at idle, but not bad. MPG stayed the same, but way more power at low rpm.

 
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