I feel like a tard, help me install my boost gauge
I feel like a tard, help me install my boost gauge
I'm lost, and im testing while driving not in park...
the cars is a '84
![[Image: DSC01483.jpg]](http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp338/mikeyboats/Project%20Smush%20Rise%20of%20the%20Turbo/DSC01483.jpg)
![[Image: DSC01482.jpg]](http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp338/mikeyboats/Project%20Smush%20Rise%20of%20the%20Turbo/DSC01482.jpg)
![[Image: DSC01481.jpg]](http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp338/mikeyboats/Project%20Smush%20Rise%20of%20the%20Turbo/DSC01481.jpg)
![[Image: DSC01477.jpg]](http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp338/mikeyboats/Project%20Smush%20Rise%20of%20the%20Turbo/DSC01477.jpg)
![[Image: DSC01479.jpg]](http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp338/mikeyboats/Project%20Smush%20Rise%20of%20the%20Turbo/DSC01479.jpg)
1981 Mercedes 300TD Lowered 4 speed manual Holset HX30
mike-81-240d
04-10-2011, 08:18 PM #1I tried following three different threads on peachparts with no results. What should I be doing here? I think this car has had the EGR deleted?
I'm lost, and im testing while driving not in park...
the cars is a '84
1981 Mercedes 300TD Lowered 4 speed manual Holset HX30
If you are properly 'tee-ed' into that vac line for the egr, it should only see vacuum at certain loading conditions and during certain engine temperatures.
As long as that line is off the egr, its done.... oh, but the valve can leak a bit.
you can also delete the ARV on the front of the turbo. Its got a vacuum line to it as well. If you do do this, then an entire valve can be removed from your engine bay... (hint: I think you gave us a photo of it.)
Major Edit: I did not see you wanted to install a boost gauge, sorry. I thought you were looking to delete egr.
totaldisaster
04-10-2011, 08:26 PM #2Looks like you got it there, Homes.
If you are properly 'tee-ed' into that vac line for the egr, it should only see vacuum at certain loading conditions and during certain engine temperatures.
As long as that line is off the egr, its done.... oh, but the valve can leak a bit.
you can also delete the ARV on the front of the turbo. Its got a vacuum line to it as well. If you do do this, then an entire valve can be removed from your engine bay... (hint: I think you gave us a photo of it.)
Major Edit: I did not see you wanted to install a boost gauge, sorry. I thought you were looking to delete egr.
(04-10-2011, 08:27 PM)aaa Did you tee into the alda line?
I tried that, but didnt read any boost on the gauge. The line coming off the ALDA going to the firewall correct?
1981 Mercedes 300TD Lowered 4 speed manual Holset HX30
mike-81-240d
04-10-2011, 08:37 PM #4(04-10-2011, 08:27 PM)aaa Did you tee into the alda line?
I tried that, but didnt read any boost on the gauge. The line coming off the ALDA going to the firewall correct?
1981 Mercedes 300TD Lowered 4 speed manual Holset HX30
its easiest to tap into the rubber one on the end of the nipple.
You wont see boost until you put a load on the engine (driving... etc..) If you didn't see boost even when driving, perhaps your boost tube from the back of the intake manifold is broken or there is an incredible clog at the manifold or in the switchover valve on the firewall.
totaldisaster
04-10-2011, 08:39 PM #5any line coming off the ALDA will work.
its easiest to tap into the rubber one on the end of the nipple.
You wont see boost until you put a load on the engine (driving... etc..) If you didn't see boost even when driving, perhaps your boost tube from the back of the intake manifold is broken or there is an incredible clog at the manifold or in the switchover valve on the firewall.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
Rudolf_Diesel
04-10-2011, 08:44 PM #6Did you clean the banjo bolt on the manifold that feeds the ALDA? It can be clogged with soot and not allow any boost signal - maybe a problem with fuel enrichment as well when boost kicks in?
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
(04-10-2011, 08:39 PM)totaldisaster any line coming off the ALDA will work.
its easiest to tap into the rubber one on the end of the nipple.
You wont see boost until you put a load on the engine (driving... etc..) If you didn't see boost even when driving, perhaps your boost tube from the back of the intake manifold is broken or there is an incredible clog at the manifold or in the switchover valve on the firewall.
X2 you wont see any boost pressure until you actually drive it if you tee'd off the alda line your golden
(04-10-2011, 08:39 PM)totaldisaster any line coming off the ALDA will work.
its easiest to tap into the rubber one on the end of the nipple.
You wont see boost until you put a load on the engine (driving... etc..) If you didn't see boost even when driving, perhaps your boost tube from the back of the intake manifold is broken or there is an incredible clog at the manifold or in the switchover valve on the firewall.
X2 you wont see any boost pressure until you actually drive it if you tee'd off the alda line your golden
1981 Mercedes 300TD Lowered 4 speed manual Holset HX30
mike-81-240d
04-11-2011, 12:04 AM #8Winner winner chicken dinner. When I tried tee'ing into the ALDA line the first time I guess shutting the hood with the plastic boost line running into the cabin kinked it. The car seems to pull about 9.5psi at 35 or so. More detail after I buy a gauge pod tomorrow.
1981 Mercedes 300TD Lowered 4 speed manual Holset HX30
1981 Mercedes 300TD Lowered 4 speed manual Holset HX30
mike-81-240d
04-13-2011, 08:39 PM #9http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IdhCG0203Tc
1981 Mercedes 300TD Lowered 4 speed manual Holset HX30
2 Guest(s)
2 Guest(s)