603 n/a fi element update
603 n/a fi element update
I have a none turbo 603 motor which is rather slow. I have read some posts where people have replaced the elements to the larger 6-7mm size to increase flow. Is this procedure primarily beneficial for turbo motors or will I achieve additional power for my non turbo motor?
My goal. I really want the best long term durable diesel (like a 617A) not necessarily a tire burner. I will be doing all the work.
Additionally what are your thoughts on a 606n/a transplant instead. With its mechanical fi pump it seems to be fairly plug and play other than reconfiguring the exhaust?
Thanks
Mark
On this board it'll be go turbo or go home. Otherwise, my answers are the same as on the other board.
I had a W124 603 n/a and I put a 606n/a in it. It is a fairly easy swap. But you have to rev up the 606n/a to get some power from it. Not the best solution in a G wagon. And I have heard that the large intake will hit your power brake. Why not put an Eaton M90 supercharger on it since you mainly need low end torque?
He's running out of power on the freeway, probably has plenty down low with low range and all.
I am looking at all my options right now. I am not sure about attaching a turbo to my existing engine. Yes it would be straightforward to do but will the N/A designed engine be able to handle the added pressure. Of course if i did this I would need to increase the elements anyway or attach a fi pump from a turbo motor to get the ALDA unit. This would definitely shorten the life of the engine.
erling66
Some of the later G wagens came with the 606A motor. no issue with the power brake.
I have attached a photo.
I also attached a photo of a 606 in a G that went swimming.
On the G350 motor to keep the air filter on the right hand side MB ran a pipe over the valve cover from the air filter to the turbo and then from the turbo back to the air intake. (a lot of plumbing).
pp d
If I were to go to the 6-7mm elements would this give me a little extra overall power especially on the highway? I intend on doing some cross country (coast to coast) trecks and would like a dependable long distance driver.
Mark
(04-07-2011, 08:36 AM)inkblotz pp d
If I were to go to the 6-7mm elements would this give me a little extra overall power especially on the highway? I intend on doing some cross country (coast to coast) trecks and would like a dependable long distance driver.
Mark
(04-07-2011, 08:36 AM)inkblotz pp d
If I were to go to the 6-7mm elements would this give me a little extra overall power especially on the highway? I intend on doing some cross country (coast to coast) trecks and would like a dependable long distance driver.
Mark
OK a little update after speaking with Gus Pfister at Pacific Fuel Injection in California it was determined that why the performance of my diesel is so lackluster is that it is not getting enough fuel. As i mentioned the PO had the pump rebuilt but upon install I don't think it was set up properly. The full load adjustment screw (behind the plate at the the back of the injection pump) needs to be backed out to increase the fuel flow.
With the car in neutral if I punch I don't get much smoke at all.
Any input as to the easiest way to get to it short of pulling the pump would be appreciated.
Mark
don't know the engine bay in a G but it should be enough to remove the intake manifold to access the back of the IP.
You can run the engine (not driving) with open back plate and removed intake for some seconds just to get an idea of engine response and smoke.
But you will reach the limit (smoke, high egt) before you are happy with performance.
Tom
i have the same issue - G463 300D'91 with a/tranny
really slow on-roads and not too much efficient off-road.
i target to:
1) switch engine to 606a
2) put larger plungers
3) thinking of vnt/vgt with mechanic vacuum management
first two are not that difficult but the last one is a challenge
so finally i will have fully mechanic g-wagon with automatic transmission - nice mixture of offroader and day-to-day car
(04-09-2011, 03:02 PM)tomnik don't know the engine bay in a G but it should be enough to remove the intake manifold to access the back of the IP.
You can run the engine (not driving) with open back plate and removed intake for some seconds just to get an idea of engine response and smoke.
But you will reach the limit (smoke, high egt) before you are happy with performance.
Tom
(04-09-2011, 03:02 PM)tomnik don't know the engine bay in a G but it should be enough to remove the intake manifold to access the back of the IP.
You can run the engine (not driving) with open back plate and removed intake for some seconds just to get an idea of engine response and smoke.
But you will reach the limit (smoke, high egt) before you are happy with performance.
Tom
Well I addressed the entire fuel system today.
1. Changed out the filters.
2. Blew at 10psi compressed air back through the fuel inline to clear the screen. This is a temporary fix to see is the screen had some algae growing that is hindering flow.
3. Replaced the return lines, as they were old and weeping.
4. I took the end plate off the FI pump and adjusted the lower left fuel enrichment screw. You unlock the 10mm nut then back out the screw. Run the engine with the plate off. (yes there will be some engine oil that will come out) and keep adjusting till you start to get the over-rich black exhaust. Then back in the screw a bit till there is minimal smoke. Then lock down the securing nut, put the plate back on and off you go. I have attached a photo that I borrowed from poster WINMUTT.
5. Additionally I took out my fuel sender and went fishing in the tank for possible algae blooms. None were to be found.
I took it for a test drive and definitely noticed an increase in power.
One more added bonus to the FI pump adjustment: the engine has, since I bought it idled at 500 rpm. Now it idles at what the factory calls for 750 rpm.
Thanks all for the assistance/input.
Mark