Hard/ will not start in cold mornings
Hard/ will not start in cold mornings
Same thing next morning. No start. I have left it alone all week since the temps have been below freezing in the mornings but have left the block heater plugged in.
I finally was able to get it started today since the weather has warmed up a bit. I checked my glow plugs and replaced them all last night. Checked for voltage at the plugs and had voltage at them. This leads me to think the glow plug circuit is good.
I have noticed that the lift pump leaks a little bit of fuel (been leaking for a little over a month, nothing to bad) but I started the car the night before everything went to crap with no issues.
I did notice with further inspection of everything that a return line looks like it has come off the #5 injector but I am unsure where this goes. It has 2 spots on it for return one to the #4 injector and the other I am not sure where it is supposed to go.
I know I need to get the lift pump replaced but am looking at what else might be causing the problems as well. Any help is greatly appreciated.
I have a 83 300sd om617. Last week I went to start the car before work and it sat there and turned over and over until the battery was dead. Took over an hour later that evening to get the car even started. Once it did start it looked like something caught fire from all the smoke coming out the exhaust. Nothing was on fire though.
Same thing next morning. No start. I have left it alone all week since the temps have been below freezing in the mornings but have left the block heater plugged in.
I finally was able to get it started today since the weather has warmed up a bit. I checked my glow plugs and replaced them all last night. Checked for voltage at the plugs and had voltage at them. This leads me to think the glow plug circuit is good.
I have noticed that the lift pump leaks a little bit of fuel (been leaking for a little over a month, nothing to bad) but I started the car the night before everything went to crap with no issues.
I did notice with further inspection of everything that a return line looks like it has come off the #5 injector but I am unsure where this goes. It has 2 spots on it for return one to the #4 injector and the other I am not sure where it is supposed to go.
I know I need to get the lift pump replaced but am looking at what else might be causing the problems as well. Any help is greatly appreciated.
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
12-12-2010, 11:59 AM #2The last injector return line gets plugged/caped!
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
I know that's not much help but my 2¢
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
My 617 start better if I hold just a bit of throttle while it's turning over. And make sure not to let off the starter till it's for certain going to keep going.
I know that's not much help but my 2¢
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Now whats the possibility of the fuel not being the right mixture for the freezing temps outside. I do live in the south and I am wondering if they have switched over to a winter diesel yet. I last put fuel in 2 weeks ago before we got this first freeze. They might have switched to a winter fuel now.
ok...so the lone piece of fuel tubing I found laying around was just nothing then. The last injector has a piece of fuel tubing over it cut flush with the tip and I see no fuel coming out from there. So that problem seems to be not a problem anymore then. The only other thing that I can think is causing me any issues would then be the lift pump. Whats weird is when its 50 degrees outside I have no issues starting it. If it dips below that then there is when I am having problems. I plug the block heater in with any temp below 45 degrees and I was fine til it froze outside.
Now whats the possibility of the fuel not being the right mixture for the freezing temps outside. I do live in the south and I am wondering if they have switched over to a winter diesel yet. I last put fuel in 2 weeks ago before we got this first freeze. They might have switched to a winter fuel now.
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
12-12-2010, 12:25 PM #5The fuel should not be an issue unless its below 20*f
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
1983 light ivory/palomino 300d turbo
Standyne fuel additive. I started on 14 degree mornings a week ago no block heater no problem. My new injector nozzles help I'm sure. My glow plugs are of unsure origin and came with the car. No ether it kills your glow plugs and can mess up the engine. If everything else is good it sounds like your injectors might need rebuilding.
1983 light ivory/palomino 300d turbo
could be some fuses ... if it's that, $15 fix.
could the the alternator ... if it's that, $190 fix
you could flush your injectors with an additive.
wouldn't hurt to add some lubro moly to the oil crankcase.
not much to go wrong in these cars.
check out Ken Bergasma's benz site, could be the alternator regulator ... if it's that, $20 fix
could be some fuses ... if it's that, $15 fix.
could the the alternator ... if it's that, $190 fix
you could flush your injectors with an additive.
wouldn't hurt to add some lubro moly to the oil crankcase.
not much to go wrong in these cars.
(12-13-2010, 09:24 PM)300SD_KY Ken Bergasma's benz site
How about not using a place that is a straight out scam shop?
ForcedInduction
12-14-2010, 11:35 AM
#8
(12-13-2010, 09:24 PM)300SD_KY Ken Bergasma's benz site
How about not using a place that is a straight out scam shop?
i used to spend an average of $500 a year minimum on there site while i was restoring and fixing my car up. And just recently they made a huge deal for a $40 air cleaner bracket that they sent me broken and didnt wanna replace. i told them to go F-ck themselves which was as nicely as i could put it
W116Lorinser
12-15-2010, 03:27 PM #9i agree with forced no kent bergsma POS.
i used to spend an average of $500 a year minimum on there site while i was restoring and fixing my car up. And just recently they made a huge deal for a $40 air cleaner bracket that they sent me broken and didnt wanna replace. i told them to go F-ck themselves which was as nicely as i could put it
ForcedInduction
12-16-2010, 08:44 AM
#10
Right, everything they sell is either used or cheap aftermarket junk, both usually sold above the new price of a genuine part.
I am really thinking that after some looking and what not that the lift pump is the cause of the majority of my problems. What is the part number for a replacement unit?
Also does anyone by chance know what wire goes to which prong on the block heater as the plug on mine has shorted out. I have been looking at having a bung welded into the upper radiator pipe/thermostat housing so I can install a heater coil like whats used on the big trucks I work on. Yes I know a heavy diesel mechanic having issues getting an old diesel running. LOL
Also just for a laugh or two what about installing a fuel heater/ fuel filter housing. We use them on our volvo trucks and rarely have any issues starting them on cold mornings.
Im sure the coolant heater and fuel heater are not really needed as it does not get this cold normally down here. But when I start to travel some it would be nice to have.
Ok. So dont get crap from them then. gotcha.
I am really thinking that after some looking and what not that the lift pump is the cause of the majority of my problems. What is the part number for a replacement unit?
Also does anyone by chance know what wire goes to which prong on the block heater as the plug on mine has shorted out. I have been looking at having a bung welded into the upper radiator pipe/thermostat housing so I can install a heater coil like whats used on the big trucks I work on. Yes I know a heavy diesel mechanic having issues getting an old diesel running. LOL
Also just for a laugh or two what about installing a fuel heater/ fuel filter housing. We use them on our volvo trucks and rarely have any issues starting them on cold mornings.
Im sure the coolant heater and fuel heater are not really needed as it does not get this cold normally down here. But when I start to travel some it would be nice to have.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
There are also battery heating pads/wraps and block heaters that are just magnetically attached. I was thinking I might need one of the battery heaters. We got down to 4 degrees and I got her turned over but the motor cut out and from there out I just drained any power that was left.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
I read that the cold oil increases friction and that a cold battery, even an optima red top, has far less power than if it's warm.
here
http://bioengr.ag.utk.edu/ExtProg/machin...ldstrt.htm
or here
http://auroragenerators.com/resources/au...ld-weather
Specifically says that a 0 degree battery has 46% less power than if it were 80 degrees.
If you change the gear of your starter won't you be trading speed for torque? II think you might need both.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
I wonder what is the best way to help the motor start? Heat battery vs. block.
I read that the cold oil increases friction and that a cold battery, even an optima red top, has far less power than if it's warm.
here
http://bioengr.ag.utk.edu/ExtProg/machin...ldstrt.htm
or here
http://auroragenerators.com/resources/au...ld-weather
Specifically says that a 0 degree battery has 46% less power than if it were 80 degrees.
If you change the gear of your starter won't you be trading speed for torque? II think you might need both.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
I just have to see how things go. Some oddball reason I can keep volvo and cat diesels running all damn day long but cant keep this ol MB diesel running when its cold.
With a gear reduction starter you will be getting more torque and the same speed. Ive started swapping all the big ol 42mt starters in the big trucks to the smaller 39mt. They have no problems spinning over the 15l cat diesels.
I just have to see how things go. Some oddball reason I can keep volvo and cat diesels running all damn day long but cant keep this ol MB diesel running when its cold.
cost me $80 and i bought one last year. its better then the original block heater as it heats the engine through the cooling system much quicker. engine will be warm in a hour or less.
the oil pan heaters or other types other then the coolant hose heater i mentiioned above are garbage because they simply dont work.
(12-16-2010, 07:45 PM)larsalan There are also battery heating pads/wraps and block heaters that are just magnetically attached. I was thinking I might need one of the battery heaters. We got down to 4 degrees and I got her turned over but the motor cut out and from there out I just drained any power that was left.
im surprised as to why your battery is losing so much volatage. Maybe its not being recharged correctly?
if thats the case keep a battery maintainer attached to it on those really cold nights so it fully charged in the morning.
W116Lorinser
12-22-2010, 10:37 AM #16do to diesel giant.com and get the coolant hose heater.
cost me $80 and i bought one last year. its better then the original block heater as it heats the engine through the cooling system much quicker. engine will be warm in a hour or less.
the oil pan heaters or other types other then the coolant hose heater i mentiioned above are garbage because they simply dont work.
(12-16-2010, 07:45 PM)larsalan There are also battery heating pads/wraps and block heaters that are just magnetically attached. I was thinking I might need one of the battery heaters. We got down to 4 degrees and I got her turned over but the motor cut out and from there out I just drained any power that was left.
im surprised as to why your battery is losing so much volatage. Maybe its not being recharged correctly?
if thats the case keep a battery maintainer attached to it on those really cold nights so it fully charged in the morning.
(12-22-2010, 10:37 AM)W116Lorinser im surprised as to why your battery is losing so much volatage. Maybe its not being recharged correctly?
if thats the case keep a battery maintainer attached to it on those really cold nights so it fully charged in the morning.
I guess putting the battery tender on there would keep it warm as well by forcing a charge through the battery.
I'm just saying cold batteries have less cca than warm ones.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
(12-22-2010, 10:37 AM)W116Lorinser im surprised as to why your battery is losing so much volatage. Maybe its not being recharged correctly?
if thats the case keep a battery maintainer attached to it on those really cold nights so it fully charged in the morning.
I guess putting the battery tender on there would keep it warm as well by forcing a charge through the battery.
I'm just saying cold batteries have less cca than warm ones.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Even a new engine with all electric parts good will not or be hard to start in cold temps,(below freezing)if oil to thick,keeps injection pump from going into (start) enrichment position. If injector pump worn (near max.output)and engine cranks slower no injection. If this happens,get cranking speed up or,lower injector pop a bit.
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