STD Maintenance General Do not use silicone on your gaskets

Do not use silicone on your gaskets

Do not use silicone on your gaskets

 
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ForcedInduction
Banned

3,628
10-30-2010, 10:38 PM #1
This was half clogging my oil pump's intake screen.

   
ForcedInduction
10-30-2010, 10:38 PM #1

This was half clogging my oil pump's intake screen.

   

ben2go
Diesel Dumby

129
10-30-2010, 10:59 PM #2
Someone went a little to heavy on it.I usually use gasgacinch.Spelling may not be right.It's kind of like a glue for gaskets.Mainly used to hold them in place during assembly.

1990 Mercury Blue Max Cougar 3.8L with Automatic
Future OM617 Super Turbo Diesel Conversion with T56 6 Speed Manual
ben2go
10-30-2010, 10:59 PM #2

Someone went a little to heavy on it.I usually use gasgacinch.Spelling may not be right.It's kind of like a glue for gaskets.Mainly used to hold them in place during assembly.


1990 Mercury Blue Max Cougar 3.8L with Automatic
Future OM617 Super Turbo Diesel Conversion with T56 6 Speed Manual

willbhere4u
Six in a row make her go!

2,507
10-30-2010, 11:15 PM #3
Did you notice any difference in your oil pressure now that it has a clear pick up?

1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
10-30-2010, 11:15 PM #3

Did you notice any difference in your oil pressure now that it has a clear pick up?


1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running

ForcedInduction
Banned

3,628
10-30-2010, 11:19 PM #4
It took a little while to prime the air out but the needle does pop up a spit second quicker now. Could just be the new oil though.
ForcedInduction
10-30-2010, 11:19 PM #4

It took a little while to prime the air out but the needle does pop up a spit second quicker now. Could just be the new oil though.

300D50
Graphite Moderator, ala RBMK

775
10-30-2010, 11:20 PM #5
About as ugly looking a clump as the fat guy in your avatar :p

Makes me a bit scared for my Mitsubishi, it's got a borkload of rtv on it from the previous owner, but you have to drop the trans and pull the engine to change the pan gasket unless you're a contortionist...

1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72

I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
300D50
10-30-2010, 11:20 PM #5

About as ugly looking a clump as the fat guy in your avatar :p

Makes me a bit scared for my Mitsubishi, it's got a borkload of rtv on it from the previous owner, but you have to drop the trans and pull the engine to change the pan gasket unless you're a contortionist...


1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72

I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.

ForcedInduction
Banned

3,628
10-30-2010, 11:41 PM #6
Whenever I do use sealant I use a thin layer of Loctite 515. Unlike silicone, it hardens after its compressed and won't dry out in the tube. A little dab'll do ya.

[Image: 34381_300.jpg]
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
LOCTITE® Product 515 is a ready to use, one component, gel-like anaerobic flange sealant that cures at room temperature when it is isolated from air contact.
TYPICAL APPLICATIONS
Seals close fitting joints between rigid metal faces and flanges and will flex with minor flange movements. Provides resistance to low pressures immediately after assembly of flanges. Typically used as a form-in-place gaskets for pumps, thermostats, compressors, transmission housings and axle covers.
This post was last modified: 10-30-2010, 11:42 PM by ForcedInduction.
ForcedInduction
10-30-2010, 11:41 PM #6

Whenever I do use sealant I use a thin layer of Loctite 515. Unlike silicone, it hardens after its compressed and won't dry out in the tube. A little dab'll do ya.

[Image: 34381_300.jpg]
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
LOCTITE® Product 515 is a ready to use, one component, gel-like anaerobic flange sealant that cures at room temperature when it is isolated from air contact.
TYPICAL APPLICATIONS
Seals close fitting joints between rigid metal faces and flanges and will flex with minor flange movements. Provides resistance to low pressures immediately after assembly of flanges. Typically used as a form-in-place gaskets for pumps, thermostats, compressors, transmission housings and axle covers.

300D50
Graphite Moderator, ala RBMK

775
10-30-2010, 11:45 PM #7
Ooooh....
I take it that can be used on the gasketless cast pan for extra peace of mind as well?

1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72

I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
300D50
10-30-2010, 11:45 PM #7

Ooooh....
I take it that can be used on the gasketless cast pan for extra peace of mind as well?


1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72

I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.

willbhere4u
Six in a row make her go!

2,507
10-30-2010, 11:48 PM #8
We used 3m spray glue on any paper gaskets for water pumps and oil pans hold them in place worked every time and it never leaked!

1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
10-30-2010, 11:48 PM #8

We used 3m spray glue on any paper gaskets for water pumps and oil pans hold them in place worked every time and it never leaked!


1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running

ForcedInduction
Banned

3,628
10-30-2010, 11:56 PM #9
(10-30-2010, 11:45 PM)300D50 I take it that can be used on the gasketless cast pan for extra peace of mind as well?

It would probably work a lot better than silicone.
ForcedInduction
10-30-2010, 11:56 PM #9

(10-30-2010, 11:45 PM)300D50 I take it that can be used on the gasketless cast pan for extra peace of mind as well?

It would probably work a lot better than silicone.

Captain America
Boostin' & Roostin'

2,221
10-31-2010, 01:24 AM #10
I just smear a lil white lithium grease on the gaskets and they don't move!


1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag

AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....

Captain America
10-31-2010, 01:24 AM #10

I just smear a lil white lithium grease on the gaskets and they don't move!



1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag

AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....

Syncro_G
0-60 in 29 sec

280
10-31-2010, 02:39 PM #11
I use Hylomar on almost all surfaces. it was originally recommended to me by several of the G-wagen guys.
It's excellent and far better than any of the hardening compounds. it's commonly used on race-prepped engines and very similar to some of the MB factory sealants. It doesn't harden so it won't clog anything.

-------------
'84 G-Wagen turbodiesel
'75 240D 4-Speed

Syncro_G
10-31-2010, 02:39 PM #11

I use Hylomar on almost all surfaces. it was originally recommended to me by several of the G-wagen guys.
It's excellent and far better than any of the hardening compounds. it's commonly used on race-prepped engines and very similar to some of the MB factory sealants. It doesn't harden so it won't clog anything.


-------------
'84 G-Wagen turbodiesel
'75 240D 4-Speed

ForcedInduction
Banned

3,628
10-31-2010, 09:24 PM #12
(10-31-2010, 02:39 PM)Syncro_G it's commonly used on race-prepped engines
Thats because race engines are opened frequently.

Quote:It doesn't harden so it won't clog anything.
Hardening is good, its less likely to come apart into the sump it sticks easier, it seals much better and doesn't require nearly as much to be used (also reducing the chance of squish-out going into the sump).
This post was last modified: 10-31-2010, 09:25 PM by ForcedInduction.
ForcedInduction
10-31-2010, 09:24 PM #12

(10-31-2010, 02:39 PM)Syncro_G it's commonly used on race-prepped engines
Thats because race engines are opened frequently.

Quote:It doesn't harden so it won't clog anything.
Hardening is good, its less likely to come apart into the sump it sticks easier, it seals much better and doesn't require nearly as much to be used (also reducing the chance of squish-out going into the sump).

Syncro_G
0-60 in 29 sec

280
11-01-2010, 10:28 AM #13
There's a good discussion of hylomar here.
It's one of MB's recommended sealants.

Lots of MB guys love it and have put 100k+ miles on build ups.

http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/show...ightmode=1

-------------
'84 G-Wagen turbodiesel
'75 240D 4-Speed

Syncro_G
11-01-2010, 10:28 AM #13

There's a good discussion of hylomar here.
It's one of MB's recommended sealants.

Lots of MB guys love it and have put 100k+ miles on build ups.

http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/show...ightmode=1


-------------
'84 G-Wagen turbodiesel
'75 240D 4-Speed

DeliveryValve
Superturbo

1,338
11-01-2010, 01:59 PM #14
(10-30-2010, 11:45 PM)300D50 Ooooh....
I take it that can be used on the gasketless cast pan for extra peace of mind as well?


I've also used ThreeBond 1194 motorcycle case sealant with great sucess. Also known as HondaBond 4 YamaBond 4. Very similar to the Loctite 515 in that it will not set without pressure and is semi-hardening. Use a very thin coat and it does get messy if not careful.

The other stuff I used for upper pans is ThreeBond 1211 (HondaBond HT) motorcycle case sealant, although it's silicone, it's permanent and you use a very thin coat so it won't have to possibilty to breaking off into the oil galleys. It does take a long while to set, you can remove parts easily if you screw up. But once it cures the bond is a bitch to clean off. I have not see this stuff leak.


.

Gota love Mercedes Diesels!



.
DeliveryValve
11-01-2010, 01:59 PM #14

(10-30-2010, 11:45 PM)300D50 Ooooh....
I take it that can be used on the gasketless cast pan for extra peace of mind as well?


I've also used ThreeBond 1194 motorcycle case sealant with great sucess. Also known as HondaBond 4 YamaBond 4. Very similar to the Loctite 515 in that it will not set without pressure and is semi-hardening. Use a very thin coat and it does get messy if not careful.

The other stuff I used for upper pans is ThreeBond 1211 (HondaBond HT) motorcycle case sealant, although it's silicone, it's permanent and you use a very thin coat so it won't have to possibilty to breaking off into the oil galleys. It does take a long while to set, you can remove parts easily if you screw up. But once it cures the bond is a bitch to clean off. I have not see this stuff leak.


.


Gota love Mercedes Diesels!



.

98taco3
K26-2

41
12-10-2010, 07:02 AM #15
(10-30-2010, 11:48 PM)willbhere4u We used 3m spray glue on any paper gaskets for water pumps and oil pans hold them in place worked every time and it never leaked!

Any of you guys ever work at longs peak equipment? Big Grin
98taco3
12-10-2010, 07:02 AM #15

(10-30-2010, 11:48 PM)willbhere4u We used 3m spray glue on any paper gaskets for water pumps and oil pans hold them in place worked every time and it never leaked!

Any of you guys ever work at longs peak equipment? Big Grin

willbhere4u
Six in a row make her go!

2,507
12-10-2010, 10:47 AM #16
I worked for Greg at L1 automotive in Berthoud he thought me that!
This post was last modified: 12-10-2010, 10:50 AM by willbhere4u.

1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
12-10-2010, 10:47 AM #16

I worked for Greg at L1 automotive in Berthoud he thought me that!


1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running

yankneck696
Build it so strong & blow it up good !!!

395
12-14-2010, 09:47 AM #17
I think the issue with the use of silicone sealants is that users glob it on in hopes that it will seal any imperfections. Imperfections should be corrected before assembly (bent oil pans/valve covers) & correct torque values should be used. I was taught to use sealants & gasket adhesives as a light skim. Even GM (on vortec engines) has eliminated the front & back intake gaskets in favor of black (sensor safe) RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanizing) sealant at a 1/4" bead if I recall. I too have seen the ill effects that excess sealants can do. I remember one of the hot rod magazines did an experiment on a GM 350 intake install & found even the GM reccomendation was a bit excessive. Also, oil free surfaces are imperative or the silicone will not adhere & can just slide off of the surface.
yankneck696
12-14-2010, 09:47 AM #17

I think the issue with the use of silicone sealants is that users glob it on in hopes that it will seal any imperfections. Imperfections should be corrected before assembly (bent oil pans/valve covers) & correct torque values should be used. I was taught to use sealants & gasket adhesives as a light skim. Even GM (on vortec engines) has eliminated the front & back intake gaskets in favor of black (sensor safe) RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanizing) sealant at a 1/4" bead if I recall. I too have seen the ill effects that excess sealants can do. I remember one of the hot rod magazines did an experiment on a GM 350 intake install & found even the GM reccomendation was a bit excessive. Also, oil free surfaces are imperative or the silicone will not adhere & can just slide off of the surface.

 
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