Do not use silicone on your gaskets
Do not use silicone on your gaskets
Someone went a little to heavy on it.I usually use gasgacinch.Spelling may not be right.It's kind of like a glue for gaskets.Mainly used to hold them in place during assembly.
Did you notice any difference in your oil pressure now that it has a clear pick up?
It took a little while to prime the air out but the needle does pop up a spit second quicker now. Could just be the new oil though.
About as ugly looking a clump as the fat guy in your avatar :p
Makes me a bit scared for my Mitsubishi, it's got a borkload of rtv on it from the previous owner, but you have to drop the trans and pull the engine to change the pan gasket unless you're a contortionist...
Whenever I do use sealant I use a thin layer of Loctite 515. Unlike silicone, it hardens after its compressed and won't dry out in the tube. A little dab'll do ya.
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
LOCTITE® Product 515 is a ready to use, one component, gel-like anaerobic flange sealant that cures at room temperature when it is isolated from air contact.
TYPICAL APPLICATIONS
Seals close fitting joints between rigid metal faces and flanges and will flex with minor flange movements. Provides resistance to low pressures immediately after assembly of flanges. Typically used as a form-in-place gaskets for pumps, thermostats, compressors, transmission housings and axle covers.
Ooooh....
I take it that can be used on the gasketless cast pan for extra peace of mind as well?
We used 3m spray glue on any paper gaskets for water pumps and oil pans hold them in place worked every time and it never leaked!
(10-30-2010, 11:45 PM)300D50 I take it that can be used on the gasketless cast pan for extra peace of mind as well?
(10-30-2010, 11:45 PM)300D50 I take it that can be used on the gasketless cast pan for extra peace of mind as well?
I just smear a lil white lithium grease on the gaskets and they don't move!
I use Hylomar on almost all surfaces. it was originally recommended to me by several of the G-wagen guys.
It's excellent and far better than any of the hardening compounds. it's commonly used on race-prepped engines and very similar to some of the MB factory sealants. It doesn't harden so it won't clog anything.
(10-31-2010, 02:39 PM)Syncro_G it's commonly used on race-prepped enginesThats because race engines are opened frequently.
Quote:It doesn't harden so it won't clog anything.Hardening is good, its less likely to come apart into the sump it sticks easier, it seals much better and doesn't require nearly as much to be used (also reducing the chance of squish-out going into the sump).
(10-31-2010, 02:39 PM)Syncro_G it's commonly used on race-prepped enginesThats because race engines are opened frequently.
Quote:It doesn't harden so it won't clog anything.Hardening is good, its less likely to come apart into the sump it sticks easier, it seals much better and doesn't require nearly as much to be used (also reducing the chance of squish-out going into the sump).
There's a good discussion of hylomar here.
It's one of MB's recommended sealants.
Lots of MB guys love it and have put 100k+ miles on build ups.
http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/show...ightmode=1
(10-30-2010, 11:45 PM)300D50 Ooooh....
I take it that can be used on the gasketless cast pan for extra peace of mind as well?
(10-30-2010, 11:45 PM)300D50 Ooooh....
I take it that can be used on the gasketless cast pan for extra peace of mind as well?
I worked for Greg at L1 automotive in Berthoud he thought me that!
I think the issue with the use of silicone sealants is that users glob it on in hopes that it will seal any imperfections. Imperfections should be corrected before assembly (bent oil pans/valve covers) & correct torque values should be used. I was taught to use sealants & gasket adhesives as a light skim. Even GM (on vortec engines) has eliminated the front & back intake gaskets in favor of black (sensor safe) RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanizing) sealant at a 1/4" bead if I recall. I too have seen the ill effects that excess sealants can do. I remember one of the hot rod magazines did an experiment on a GM 350 intake install & found even the GM reccomendation was a bit excessive. Also, oil free surfaces are imperative or the silicone will not adhere & can just slide off of the surface.