Cheap Tricks
Cheap Tricks
I don't have a W123 anymore, so if people can chime in with the missing bits that would be great.
Disable the EGR ~$0-$30
+More complete combustion
-Not legal for onroad use
For offroad use only, remove the vacuum lines to the black box on the valve cover/ EGR and plug them with something. Kits are available to completely block it off for around $30
Check your linkage ~$0
+More powah
With the car turned off, put a brick on the accelerator. Look at the Injection pump, the linkage should be maxed out. If it's not, adjust things so that it is, making sure that nothing binds and your idle is unaffected.
Adjust your transmission
If it shifts quickly into 4th gear, it's doing it wrong. [link]
Boost Gauge ~$20-$100
![[Image: 20096.jpg]](http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/large/sli/20096.jpg)
![[Image: scaled.php?server=11&filename=controlpan...es=landing]](http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg11/scaled.php?server=11&filename=controlpaneld.jpg&res=landing)
+Monitor your turbo's operation, and is needed for the next few modifications
Get a 2" Slime tire gauge (Can be found as low as 20psi, easy to read) from WM. Take it apart, the gauge has NPT threads on the bottom. Get a brass fitting that lets you attach a 1/4" line to the gauge, get some 1/4" line, and run it to intake manifold. You can steal the ALDA's feed line if you remove the ALDA as well, or use one of the empty gauge ports on the manifold. You can hide the gauge in the glove box. If you want a pretty gauge, go on Eb@y, and you can install it in place of the ash tray or center vents.
Control your boost $0~$20
You can set your stock wastegate [Garrett] [KKK] to ~12psi, the stock settings are rumored at 9psi.
or
You can build/ buy a boost controller and splice it into the wastegate:
![[Image: almostcomplete.jpg]](http://www.geocities.ws/chmwatson/FAQs/mbc/images/almostcomplete.jpg)
+Faster spooling, prevents a creeping wastegate, easier to adjust
-Can be "twitchy" at highway speeds,
http://www.geocities.ws/chmwatson/FAQs/mbc.html
Remove/ adjust the ALDA [removal link] [adjustment link]
+Better pedal response and acceleration. Possibly more topend (if it was broken to begin with)
Removal cons:
-Lose factory overboost protection (This is why you have a boost gauge installed), smoke before you build boost
Muffler delete: ~$20
![[Image: scaled.php?server=11&filename=exhaust1.jpg&res=landing]](http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg11/scaled.php?server=11&filename=exhaust1.jpg&res=landing)
+ Lower EGTs, slightly faster spool, slight gain in efficiency (1mpg)
- Louder, requires wastegate tuning or a boost controller to utilize
Cut the muffler out and replace it with a section of straight tubing. You need a ##" diameter pipe that's ##" long and two clamps to do it the easy way. If your turbo isn't properly set up, you will lose boost/ topend. If it's properly setup you will see faster spool times
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
08-28-2012, 12:37 PM #1These are the few "cheap tricks" I've learned to get an OM617 running right, I see a lot of people asking so here we go. Hopefully this will encompass all the noobie questions.
I don't have a W123 anymore, so if people can chime in with the missing bits that would be great.
Disable the EGR ~$0-$30
+More complete combustion
-Not legal for onroad use
For offroad use only, remove the vacuum lines to the black box on the valve cover/ EGR and plug them with something. Kits are available to completely block it off for around $30
Check your linkage ~$0
+More powah
With the car turned off, put a brick on the accelerator. Look at the Injection pump, the linkage should be maxed out. If it's not, adjust things so that it is, making sure that nothing binds and your idle is unaffected.
Adjust your transmission
If it shifts quickly into 4th gear, it's doing it wrong. [link]
Boost Gauge ~$20-$100
+Monitor your turbo's operation, and is needed for the next few modifications
Get a 2" Slime tire gauge (Can be found as low as 20psi, easy to read) from WM. Take it apart, the gauge has NPT threads on the bottom. Get a brass fitting that lets you attach a 1/4" line to the gauge, get some 1/4" line, and run it to intake manifold. You can steal the ALDA's feed line if you remove the ALDA as well, or use one of the empty gauge ports on the manifold. You can hide the gauge in the glove box. If you want a pretty gauge, go on Eb@y, and you can install it in place of the ash tray or center vents.
Control your boost $0~$20
You can set your stock wastegate [Garrett] [KKK] to ~12psi, the stock settings are rumored at 9psi.
or
You can build/ buy a boost controller and splice it into the wastegate:
+Faster spooling, prevents a creeping wastegate, easier to adjust
-Can be "twitchy" at highway speeds,
http://www.geocities.ws/chmwatson/FAQs/mbc.html
Remove/ adjust the ALDA [removal link] [adjustment link]
+Better pedal response and acceleration. Possibly more topend (if it was broken to begin with)
Removal cons:
-Lose factory overboost protection (This is why you have a boost gauge installed), smoke before you build boost
Muffler delete: ~$20
+ Lower EGTs, slightly faster spool, slight gain in efficiency (1mpg)
- Louder, requires wastegate tuning or a boost controller to utilize
Cut the muffler out and replace it with a section of straight tubing. You need a ##" diameter pipe that's ##" long and two clamps to do it the easy way. If your turbo isn't properly set up, you will lose boost/ topend. If it's properly setup you will see faster spool times
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
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