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fuel leak and a lot of cranking to start. - Printable Version

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fuel leak and a lot of cranking to start. - LewisG95 - 07-26-2016

Hi, 

I have just finished my upgrade to a bigger turbo after the car being sat for two weeks without any running. 

I came to start the car up yesterday and it took around 5-10 minutes of cranking to get the car started. 

I didn't have this problem before I parked it up before the turbo change but the car has always had a leak coming from around the fuel pump. Where would be the most common place for it to leak diesel? the clear lines that go to and from the fuel filter or the delivery valves on the pump? 

Thanks.


RE: fuel leak and a lot of cranking to start. - seanyt - 07-26-2016

0-ring are troublesome otherwise go with electric pump and never have this problem.


RE: fuel leak and a lot of cranking to start. - LewisG95 - 07-26-2016

   

well this is where it seems to be leaking from. Is that the shut off valve? it seems to be pouring out from around those clip things where the pipe goes on.. 

Can these be replaced? 

This might be why my fuel economy has been crap aswell...


RE: fuel leak and a lot of cranking to start. - BlueStreak - 07-26-2016

(07-26-2016, 03:11 AM)LewisG95 Hi, 

I have just finished my upgrade to a bigger turbo after the car being sat for two weeks without any running. 

I came to start the car up yesterday and it took around 5-10 minutes of cranking to get the car started. 

I didn't have this problem before I parked it up before the turbo change but the car has always had a leak coming from around the fuel pump. Where would be the most common place for it to leak diesel? the clear lines that go to and from the fuel filter or the delivery valves on the pump? 

Thanks.

Hi 

It's likely to be either the O rings at the ends of the clear lines, the delivery valve o rings or as in my case a hairline crack in the fuel shut off valve (or bad o rings that go into it) which was a nightmare to find.  You can buy the hose viton o ring set on eBay for about £16. Or take the old ones off to size them up, just make sure they're viton or nitrile rubber. Viton if you run on bio. The delivery valve o ring set and copper washer set should be available on there too. I can't see too well in your pic but the shutoff valve is a black plastic block on the side of the pump.




Hope this helps


RE: fuel leak and a lot of cranking to start. - BlueStreak - 07-26-2016

Actually, I can see the electrical connector with the ribbed top in the pic, so yes, thats the shutoff valve. Change the o rings there first but rest assured the others will have hardened so will need changing too..... How is the performance with your new turbo? Have you done anything to get extra fuelling?


RE: fuel leak and a lot of cranking to start. - LewisG95 - 07-26-2016

Thanks for your reply BlueStreak.

It appears to be coming from that left hand hose on the picture. I cleaned it up and then got it started and was sat watching it pour out from there while the car was sat ticking over.

Is there any chance you could link me to the correct o-rings for the fuel lines please?

I'm half tempted to do the delivery valve o-rings and washers too but will just see if changing those fuel line o-rings cures it first.

The performance seems to be good with the new turbo. It's a HX27w from a 4bt and I have had Sean chip my ecu to run at the pumps maximum.

The turbo didn't look that much bigger compared to standard but it is definitely a bit laggier and when it comes on boost it pulls a lot harder.

Just a bit annoyed that I cant enjoy the performance with this bloody fuel leak messing me about now. Hopefully I'll be able to get it sorted.


RE: fuel leak and a lot of cranking to start. - LewisG95 - 07-26-2016

infact.. is there any chance you know what size the o-rings are for the o-rings that go on the top of the shut off valve? we have a large selection of o-rings at work that might do it...


RE: fuel leak and a lot of cranking to start. - BlueStreak - 07-26-2016

(07-26-2016, 05:31 AM)LewisG95 Thanks for your reply BlueStreak.

It appears to be coming from that left hand hose on the picture. I cleaned it up and then got it started and was sat watching it pour out from there while the car was sat ticking over.

Is there any chance you could link me to the correct o-rings for the fuel lines please?

I'm half tempted to do the delivery valve o-rings and washers too but will just see if changing those fuel line o-rings cures it first.

The performance seems to be good with the new turbo. It's a HX27w from a 4bt and I have had Sean chip my ecu to run at the pumps maximum.

The turbo didn't look that much bigger compared to standard but it is definitely a bit laggier and when it comes on boost it pulls a lot harder.

Just a bit annoyed that I cant enjoy the performance with this bloody fuel leak messing me about now. Hopefully I'll be able to get it sorted.

Try this:-

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291808105558 

Please email them first to check that they fit yours. These are genuine ones, the guy selling the viton upgrade o ring kit is by the looks of it no longer doing them. 
They may be able to help with the pump delivery valve seal set as well

Good luck


RE: fuel leak and a lot of cranking to start. - BlueStreak - 07-26-2016

(07-26-2016, 08:18 AM)LewisG95 infact.. is there any chance you know what size the o-rings are for the o-rings that go on the top of the shut off valve? we have a large selection of o-rings at work that might do it...

Here is a link for the delivery valve oring set, 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152067476966 

These people are in the states but use the part numbers in their listing to do a uk search etc also try pricing them up from Mercedes. Believe it or not sometimes their prices are cheaper!


RE: fuel leak and a lot of cranking to start. - LewisG95 - 07-26-2016

Thanks mate. you have been a great help.

One more question.. do you know how to actually take off those connector things? do you have to push the clip in and then pull it up or just pull it up or?

Thanks


RE: fuel leak and a lot of cranking to start. - BlueStreak - 07-26-2016

(07-26-2016, 11:16 AM)LewisG95 Thanks mate. you have been a great help.

One more question.. do you know how to actually take off those connector things? do you have to push the clip in and then pull it up or just pull it up or?

Thanks

Hi

I don't have my car here right now to check, i have a feeling you push the white clip in. I think it's out to fix it on. It's basically the opposite of how you find it, i.e. If it's in when you find it pull it out (not right out) if it's out when you find it push the clip in.


RE: fuel leak and a lot of cranking to start. - starynovy - 07-27-2016

Yep, push in to release. While doing it have a little prayer that brittle plastic wont brake on you. Btw i changed all rings and still get air bubles in lines when engine is runing, no starting problem but air must be good for performance. Just instal low pressure electric pump near tank and chill.


RE: fuel leak and a lot of cranking to start. - LewisG95 - 07-27-2016

I am tempted to install a low pressure pump.

What kind of pressure would I be able to go to maximum?

plus is it okay running an electric pump into the standard lift pump?

Thanks


RE: fuel leak and a lot of cranking to start. - seanyt - 07-27-2016

remove the lift pump, run an electric pump and put a FPR at the return line.


RE: fuel leak and a lot of cranking to start. - AlanMcR - 07-27-2016

If any of the o-rings are leaking, replace them all, including the delivery valve seals.  Looking at the picture above, that is probably where the leak is anyway.  The delivery valves take a special tool to remove and re-tighten.  Also there is a special tightening sequence.  Requires new copper washers and the work must be surgically clean.  Always use Viton o-rings.  They last much, much, longer.

EDIT: procedure attached


RE: fuel leak and a lot of cranking to start. - starynovy - 07-27-2016

You could keep mechanical lift pump in place.. Just dont go nuts with electric pump pressure, it wont do any good other that something will leak. 400CDI engines have 0.5Bar pump, and some old BMWs 0.15Bar, both able to supply over 130L/h which is sufficient many times over-you just need "endless" supply of fuel with low pressure.