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oil drain plug valve upgrade - Printable Version

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oil drain plug valve upgrade - JB3 - 10-11-2010

anyone have one of these in service?

http://www.lubricationspecialist.com/front/showcontent.aspx?fileid=105

Reviews, comments?


RE: oil drain plug valve upgrade - ForcedInduction - 10-11-2010

It would hang too low unless you have the skid plate installed.

Some of the buses at work have them. They work okay but they seep oil around the ball. Nothing a hit of parts cleaner doesn't remove.

The drain plug is 12x1.5. You would need F109 (without skid plate) or F109N
I looked all over and couldn't find any working discount codes.
Just got one for the 240. I can live with a plug on the 300 since the oil get changed once per year, but the 240's skidplate will cause a mess since the access/drain hole isn't directly under the pan plug.


RE: oil drain plug valve upgrade - JB3 - 10-11-2010

I just ordered one also, but I paid 27 bucks! I guess you are a lot closer to the shipping location.

Im banking on the idea that the rear facing drain at an angle will mean this thing will not hang down enough to really be at that high a risk, but I also don't have a skid plate, so we will see. They make the claim that it only is 1/2 inch longer than a normal drain plug.

You will probably get yours first


RE: oil drain plug valve upgrade - ForcedInduction - 10-11-2010

I'll be waiting on a new lower oil pan and some other things I just ordered from Autohouz AZ. No point installing a skidplate to protect an ice dented pan! Big Grin


RE: oil drain plug valve upgrade - JB3 - 10-11-2010

lol, true!


RE: oil drain plug valve upgrade - ForcedInduction - 10-15-2010

Got everything today but the damn thing won't screw into the new pan.


RE: oil drain plug valve upgrade - ForcedInduction - 10-16-2010

Crap. 14mm is for the OM603, 12mm is needed for the 617.
Oh well, there is plenty of meat in the pan bung, I'll just drill and tap it to 14x1.5mm.


RE: oil drain plug valve upgrade - ForcedInduction - 10-16-2010

F109 is whats needed M12. I decided to try and exchange back instead of tapping the pan, I don't think the spot welds would hold against the torque needed to cut the threads.


RE: oil drain plug valve upgrade - Jtn190D - 10-16-2010

(10-16-2010, 05:04 AM)ForcedInduction Crap. 14mm is for the OM603, 12mm is needed for the 617.
Oh well, there is plenty of meat in the pan bung, I'll just drill and tap it to 14x1.5mm.

Will it work in OM602?


RE: oil drain plug valve upgrade - ForcedInduction - 10-16-2010

At this point, I honestly don't know. I can't get a straight answer from anywhere for what has what. I originally went off of what the parts sites listed as the correct plug size but obviously they were wrong.


RE: oil drain plug valve upgrade - JB3 - 10-18-2010

(10-16-2010, 05:04 AM)ForcedInduction Crap. 14mm is for the OM603, 12mm is needed for the 617.
Oh well, there is plenty of meat in the pan bung, I'll just drill and tap it to 14x1.5mm.

Thats unfortunate, what a PITA. Will they exchange easily? The F109 is the right number, they sent you the F106?

I got mine too, its pretty cool, it will be interesting to see how long it takes to drain the pan with this smaller diameter hole. It also looks like the pan will protect it fairly well. Only thing bothersome is you cant position the the valve handle part, it just ends up where its tight. On my spare oil pan if I were to tighten it fully, its at a 90 degree.
Ill put it in later today I think

   
   


RE: oil drain plug valve upgrade - ForcedInduction - 10-18-2010

(10-18-2010, 09:29 AM)dropnosky Thats unfortunate, what a PITA. Will they exchange easily? The F109 is the right number, they sent you the F106?

So F109 is the correct one? I wasn't sure if the thread pitch was 1.5 or 1.25.


RE: oil drain plug valve upgrade - JB3 - 10-18-2010

F109 definitely screws into the 240 replacement pan. The invoice says 12mm 1.5 on it, so 1.5 pitch seems correct.

I also used quikvalve.com as the place I got it from and did the same punch in your year and make deal.

Unfortunately, we are in the same boat, because I need a new lower pan for my 300D also! Big Grin The whole sealing surface of the drain plug is all warped and F-ed up from a scraping bash right at that location, the PO had used some Ultra Gray to keep it from leaking.




RE: oil drain plug valve upgrade - JB3 - 10-23-2010

new pan arrived, and its all installed. The valve works perfectly on a 617 oil pan, nice and tight is straight up. It does stick down a little more than the drain plug, and as you can see from the damage I already had on my car, that there is some additional risk to having this on there, but I think pretty minimal.
Eventually I think I will add some protection down there as well, ive replaced the lower pan on every diesel MB I have ever owned, yet I have never bottomed out on one (knock on wood)

Works great, I tested it with some water earlier in the other pan, Ill post back the next time I have to do an oil change with it.

   
   


RE: oil drain plug valve upgrade - willbhere4u - 10-23-2010

This is a good excuse for the addition of a skid plate!


RE: oil drain plug valve upgrade - ForcedInduction - 10-23-2010

Thats why I got one with a nipple, so it will drain clear of the skid plate.


RE: oil drain plug valve upgrade - JB3 - 10-24-2010

(10-23-2010, 11:32 PM)ForcedInduction Thats why I got one with a nipple, so it will drain clear of the skid plate.

do you have a pic of how it looks with the nipple?


RE: oil drain plug valve upgrade - ForcedInduction - 10-24-2010

   


RE: oil drain plug valve upgrade - Silberpfeil - 10-26-2010

1. FI where did you source that from??

2. How 'well' does the valve stay put??

3. And??? what about being able to then connect an attachment to help 'suck' out all the oil from the engine?? I know some shops advertise something along this line but I'm not exactly sure how it works.

thanks in advance


RE: oil drain plug valve upgrade - 300D50 - 10-27-2010

Most "suckers" pull from the dipstick and leave anywheres from a cup to a quart+ of old oil depending on how far down the dipstick goes. Fine for the anal retentive "change every time I pass the quickylube" types, but I'd never do it personally...


RE: oil drain plug valve upgrade - ForcedInduction - 10-27-2010

(10-26-2010, 02:35 AM)Silberpfeil 1. FI where did you source that from?
What, the picture? Pretty much every place that sells them has it.

Quote:2. How 'well' does the valve stay put??
The same as any oil plug.

(10-27-2010, 12:43 AM)300D50 Most "suckers" pull from the dipstick and leave anywheres from a cup to a quart+ of old oil depending on how far down the dipstick goes.
If you actually look at the oil pan and how the drain plug is placed, there is a lot of oil left no matter how long you let it drip or if you put the front wheels in the air. The only way you'll get all the oil out is to put a line into the hole and suck out the rest, which is exactly what a dipstick sucker does without having to get under the car or pull the plug.


RE: oil drain plug valve upgrade - 300D50 - 10-27-2010

(10-27-2010, 05:40 AM)ForcedInduction The only way you'll get all the oil out is to put a line into the hole and suck out the rest, which is exactly what a dipstick sucker does without having to get under the car or pull the plug.

Ah, the one piece of info I was forgetting, that you stuff tubing down the dipstick into the pan.

I'll slink away into a corner...


RE: oil drain plug valve upgrade - ForcedInduction - 10-30-2010

The new pan, fumoto and skidplate are in.

Without the plate the nipple version hangs too low. Even the non-nipple version would hang down lower than I'd be comfortable with.
   

With the skidplate there is plenty of room. That silver piece is a neodymium magnet from a hard drive to help catch any wear metals before it goes into the pump.
   
   


RE: oil drain plug valve upgrade - JB3 - 10-30-2010

wow, that works perfectly with the skid on there!

I just discovered another great feature to these things, I overfilled the oil accidentally topping it off, and resolved that problem by draining it down in seconds without actually getting dirty. I drained it into a water bottle I had. (another reason to go with the nipple if you have a skid) A nipple would have been even easier to use


RE: oil drain plug valve upgrade - 300D50 - 10-30-2010

Oooh, I'll be designing my new lower pan to take one of these for sure...


RE: oil drain plug valve upgrade - Captain America - 10-31-2010

Guess I'm gonna have to get the same as Forced, I haven't gotten my skid on yet though...


RE: oil drain plug valve upgrade - JB3 - 03-28-2011

FYI, god forbid your engine is not up to temp and you use this drain in winter. It takes forever to drain. I did it at about 35 F ambient, and ran the engine for about 5 minutes before trying to change the oil, not up to temp at all. Took almost an hour to drain with the oil real thick, maybe longer. I was able to walk a few blocks and get breakfast and it still wasn't done when I got back. If you have one, don't do any cold oil changes


RE: oil drain plug valve upgrade - ForcedInduction - 03-28-2011

Well, "Drain it hot" is common mantra around the MB universe.


RE: oil drain plug valve upgrade - JB3 - 03-29-2011

(03-28-2011, 07:24 PM)ForcedInduction Well, "Drain it hot" is common mantra around the MB universe.

true for all oil changes, but don't tell me you've never done a cold oil change on something! Big Grin Occasionally, based on circumstances, they happen. I share a driveway, and was not going to move 4 other cars out then back in twice to warm the car up since I was first in.