04-21-2009, 06:59 PM
This wasn't difficult, especially since my passenger seat and HVAC were already out of the way, but the end is well worth the effort.
The group 49 battery weighs a healthy 58lbs. It may not look like much, but put that weight on the end of a lever and you get the idea of how much influence it really has. This moves the weight from above and forward of the car's center of gravity to behind and below. This gives less body roll and brings the car closer to 50/50 weight distribution (Very difficult with a heavy diesel up front!).
The main reason for doing this, and what several other of my plans require, is the freeing of a significant volume of engine bay real estate.
I used 13.5' of 1/0gauge battery cable from battery to starter. This was BARELY long enough, I had 4" left over. Anyone considering this mod should get a minimum of 16'. I also doubled up the 8gauge harness wires from the starter to the fender mounted distribution block so I won't have to mess with it later when the alternator is upgraded. I replaced the solenoid wire due to exposed wires in the old one.
Here you get a feel for just how much area the battery and tray really occupy. 4 bolts hold the tray in place. I drilled out the 5 spot welds on the tray to remove the arm, cleaned and painted it. Luckily, despite the tray being rusted away from acid in one corner, the body is undamaged. Nothing some good soap and a power wash can't handle.
[attachment=547]
The cable passes through the old evaporator hose grommet and into the existing harness covers. I threaded one of the old insulation pad studs to accept a 10-32 nut to secure it to the firewall.
[attachment=548]
I planned to run it with the vacuum hoses over the wheel hump but 13.5' was 2' too short. I drilled a 3/4" hole in the rear bulkhead and passed the cable under the fuel tank. I collected over a dollar in small change and 10lbs of white dog hair under the back seat. Side note: I wish I had thought of this harness route when I installed the air system in the 240, it would have been 10x easier than running it under the body.
[attachment=549]
The fuel tank has plenty of clearance underneath and only a small corner was cut off the cover panel. The modified stock tray is bolted to the floor and a body ground strap is used. Gasses are routed outside the body. I put a nut on the tire hold down rod and use it to prevent the cover board from touching the battery. The loss of the spare tire is no problem for me, I've never needed to use the spare in any of my cars and I have AAA.
Rust was a big problem in the trunk, notice the hole in the upper left. I used my air sander to clean off every rusty surface, put two cans of undercoating over everything and replaced the missing rubber plugs that were letting water in.
[attachment=550]
With the carpet in place, nobody will notice its there!
[attachment=551]
I might consider doing the same to the 240 much later on if I get bored, but for now I have no need for the extra engine bay room.
The group 49 battery weighs a healthy 58lbs. It may not look like much, but put that weight on the end of a lever and you get the idea of how much influence it really has. This moves the weight from above and forward of the car's center of gravity to behind and below. This gives less body roll and brings the car closer to 50/50 weight distribution (Very difficult with a heavy diesel up front!).
The main reason for doing this, and what several other of my plans require, is the freeing of a significant volume of engine bay real estate.
I used 13.5' of 1/0gauge battery cable from battery to starter. This was BARELY long enough, I had 4" left over. Anyone considering this mod should get a minimum of 16'. I also doubled up the 8gauge harness wires from the starter to the fender mounted distribution block so I won't have to mess with it later when the alternator is upgraded. I replaced the solenoid wire due to exposed wires in the old one.
Here you get a feel for just how much area the battery and tray really occupy. 4 bolts hold the tray in place. I drilled out the 5 spot welds on the tray to remove the arm, cleaned and painted it. Luckily, despite the tray being rusted away from acid in one corner, the body is undamaged. Nothing some good soap and a power wash can't handle.
[attachment=547]
The cable passes through the old evaporator hose grommet and into the existing harness covers. I threaded one of the old insulation pad studs to accept a 10-32 nut to secure it to the firewall.
[attachment=548]
I planned to run it with the vacuum hoses over the wheel hump but 13.5' was 2' too short. I drilled a 3/4" hole in the rear bulkhead and passed the cable under the fuel tank. I collected over a dollar in small change and 10lbs of white dog hair under the back seat. Side note: I wish I had thought of this harness route when I installed the air system in the 240, it would have been 10x easier than running it under the body.
[attachment=549]
The fuel tank has plenty of clearance underneath and only a small corner was cut off the cover panel. The modified stock tray is bolted to the floor and a body ground strap is used. Gasses are routed outside the body. I put a nut on the tire hold down rod and use it to prevent the cover board from touching the battery. The loss of the spare tire is no problem for me, I've never needed to use the spare in any of my cars and I have AAA.
Rust was a big problem in the trunk, notice the hole in the upper left. I used my air sander to clean off every rusty surface, put two cans of undercoating over everything and replaced the missing rubber plugs that were letting water in.
[attachment=550]
With the carpet in place, nobody will notice its there!
[attachment=551]
I might consider doing the same to the 240 much later on if I get bored, but for now I have no need for the extra engine bay room.