(08-30-2010 09:48 PM)garage Wrote:  Wow rudolf, thats a killer job on the welding once again. Look very nice!

(08-30-2010 08:45 PM)dropnosky Wrote:  I will mail you the 616 mainfold. (I should have done that in the first place. sorry )

That last hole does not match between the 616 and the 617, its almost like an afterthought and in a random place low.

I will volunter my 616 and NA intake for mockup if need be, so that way you dont have to mail out another piece.
Its up to rudolf i guess

Thats a great offer, but if its on your running daily driver, don't do it! When I took mine off, all the gaskets and bolts for exhaust broke or disintegrated requiring replacement. Im still waiting for exhaust/intake and oil pan gasket!

It would be unfortunate if the same thing happened to you doing me this favor, and you suddenly had to order parts before the car would run again. Since mine is already apart, and its only a couple days for shipping, I might as well send the one thats already out, plus Rudolf can cut it up for pieces if he needs to and not be under the gun to get yours back to you!

Thanks anyway though, sounds like you and I have the same driving style with the lead foot

Rudolf if you do mock up a head/616 I'll donate a couple turbo exhaust manifolds and some cash for the first one!!!!

I really think there is an untapped market! name your $

NA exhaust manifold is on its way, early next week sometime, probably tuesday. Keep it and use it as a jig if you would like

I have been absorbing info from members of the board who have turbo 240s on the ALDA situation. From what it sounds like, since its a stock turbo, id probably be fine putting on a ALDA, but it seems the car will also perform well with an adjusted ADA.

I figure I will just go ahead with my plan to move all stock components onto the turbo and also include an ALDA at first, and see how it does. For removal, I have been reading this thread- http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/alda...-919.html. I gather that to remove the ALDA, I must grab the square top part and immobilize it, then loosen the nut underneath and the ALDA will rise up out of the injection pump like the end of a bolt as you turn a nut? Is this correct? I don't have to play with the nut on top?

Correct. It takes two wrenches. Loosen the locknut, then unscrew and the whole thing pulls straight up.

You are correct on removing it just hold it still and loosen the big nut on the bottom!

The nut on top is for the mixture screw if you screw it in CW it leans out if you screw it out CCW it will richen up! just loosen the lock nut and turn the screw but do not force it past where it stops!

I usually turn them out till they stop and back in a hair and lock the nut down and check for idle smoke when warm! If it smokes bad I'll turn them back in a bit until it idles clean!

With the ALDA removed it will run full rich all the time! It has been done before and can be run that way! not recommended

It dose the same thing the ADA dose except it changes with boost mostly to limit the mixture at idle to reduce smoke!

Unfortunately my car's turbo wouldn't spool with out a lot of fuel from the start so I had to use the ADA maxed I suspect some other fuel delivery problems in the fuel system because my car has zero smoke at all!!!

(08-31-2010 05:40 AM)dropnosky Wrote:  

(08-30-2010 09:48 PM)garage Wrote:  Wow rudolf, thats a killer job on the welding once again. Look very nice!

(08-30-2010 08:45 PM)dropnosky Wrote:  I will mail you the 616 mainfold. (I should have done that in the first place. sorry )

That last hole does not match between the 616 and the 617, its almost like an afterthought and in a random place low.

I will volunter my 616 and NA intake for mockup if need be, so that way you dont have to mail out another piece.
Its up to rudolf i guess

Thats a great offer, but if its on your running daily driver, don't do it! When I took mine off, all the gaskets and bolts for exhaust broke or disintegrated requiring replacement. Im still waiting for exhaust/intake and oil pan gasket!

It would be unfortunate if the same thing happened to you doing me this favor, and you suddenly had to order parts before the car would run again. Since mine is already apart, and its only a couple days for shipping, I might as well send the one thats already out, plus Rudolf can cut it up for pieces if he needs to and not be under the gun to get yours back to you!

Thanks anyway though, sounds like you and I have the same driving style with the lead foot

Right on, thats cool.

(08-31-2010 01:43 PM)willbhere4u Wrote:  You are correct on removing it just hold it still and loosen the big nut on the bottom!

The nut on top is for the mixture screw if you screw it in CW it leans out if you screw it out CCW it will richen up! just loosen the lock nut and turn the screw but do not force it past where it stops!

^^ thats under the black cap on the tippy top right?

(08-31-2010 01:43 PM)willbhere4u Wrote:  I usually turn them out till they stop and back in a hair and lock the nut down and check for idle smoke when warm! If it smokes bad I'll turn them back in a bit until it idles clean!

With the ALDA removed it will run full rich all the time! It has been done before and can be run that way! not recommended

It dose the same thing the ADA dose except it changes with boost mostly to limit the mixture at idle to reduce smoke!

Unfortunately my car's turbo wouldn't spool with out a lot of fuel from the start so I had to use the ADA maxed I suspect some other fuel delivery problems in the fuel system because my car has zero smoke at all!!!

Whoa Whoa! can you go over that one more time? kind lost you.... Are you talking about the ALDA adjustment under the black cap or the clocking of the whole shabang on top of the IP? Mine smokes at idle and even more when sitting in gear, I hate it!

Quote:Whoa Whoa! can you go over that one more time? kind lost you.... Are you talking about the ALDA adjustment under the black cap or the clocking of the whole shabang on top of the IP? Mine smokes at idle and even more when sitting in gear, I hate it!

Did that start after we did the work on the IP?

If so then you can adjust the timing by advancing the pump - loosen the 3 bolts and move the pump away from the motor use a 2x4 to pry it over.

(09-01-2010 10:29 PM)Rudolf_Diesel Wrote:  

Quote:Whoa Whoa! can you go over that one more time? kind lost you.... Are you talking about the ALDA adjustment under the black cap or the clocking of the whole shabang on top of the IP? Mine smokes at idle and even more when sitting in gear, I hate it!

Did that start after we did the work on the IP?

If so then you can adjust the timing by advancing the pump - loosen the 3 bolts and move the pump away from the motor use a 2x4 to pry it over.

No, It is the same as before we did the work... I was just gonna post about this in my thread... Lets do it there.. Don't want to hijack.

(09-01-2010 11:30 PM)Captain America Wrote:  

(09-01-2010 10:29 PM)Rudolf_Diesel Wrote:  

Quote:Whoa Whoa! can you go over that one more time? kind lost you.... Are you talking about the ALDA adjustment under the black cap or the clocking of the whole shabang on top of the IP? Mine smokes at idle and even more when sitting in gear, I hate it!

Did that start after we did the work on the IP?

If so then you can adjust the timing by advancing the pump - loosen the 3 bolts and move the pump away from the motor use a 2x4 to pry it over.

No, It is the same as before we did the work... I was just gonna post about this in my thread... Lets do it there.. Don't want to hijack.

Not so worried about hijacking, either way I learn something.

Removed the ALDA off a parts pump I have, was as easy as described. Is there a way to bench test this ALDA other than putting it on? Its pretty rusty. Can I test internals the same way I would test a shut off valve by drawing vacuum on it and checking for leaks?

Mine dose not have the black cap but I was referring to the 10mm nut & screw on top of the ALDA for adjustment's! If you loosen the nut and turn the screw clock wise it leans it out less smoke until boost starts!

It really docent madder witch way the ALDA unit faces it will function the same

Cool, That was my thought. Just wanted to make sure. Mine still has the black cap so I don't think it has been modified.

here are the other pics-

Intake manifold-

   
   

and the drain setup, I may have goofed here though, I put this port at the bottom of the existing hard drain assuming I would just screw in a short length of hose, BUT, I neglected the fact that it comes down pretty far inboard towards the motor in relation to the other hole I have rigged on the pan. Would work perfectly If I went straight down, maybe I will end up drilling through the upper plan to do that like Will did.
The result that I need to make an Z like connection to get over to the other port on the oil pan. Its too close, I might be able to get away with a 45 and a 90, but I may have to cut it down and do the upper part differently.

   

unrelated to the turbo project-

put on my winter rims with some paint and some chrome trim rings and viola!
poor mans Ronals!

As long as the car is moving above 30 mph, the wheels look almost identical to a 5 spoke black ronal with a polished edge.

   

In the last hour or so put the car back together in NA format to get to the PA GTG tomorrow. I had left the lower oil pan off this past week.

Im paying this guy to come mow the lawn and clean all the shit off the driveway (constant acorns, seeds, ect. based on season) and unfortunately, (stupid on my part) he used a leaf blower under the car and managed to blow a bunch of crap up into the upper pan, some acorn shells and leaves. I think I got most of it out, but if a bit of a leaf or acorn shell is small enough to get through the screen, do I have a potential disaster here?

Basically my question is are some oil passages smaller diameter than the openings in the oil pickup screen? Car is running great right now, so its probably a non issue.

I would think any thing dangerous would get caught in the pick up screen!

(09-18-2010 09:18 PM)willbhere4u Wrote:  I would think any thing dangerous would get caught in the pick up screen!

I consider it ok now, the car just did about 300 miles of punishing driving today down in NJ/NY/PA super populated areas, and did not even blow up once!

due for a valve adjustment, and some injector nailing coming through, anyone know if I can slap some injectors for a turbo motor on the NA 4cyl? or are they different opening pressures?

(09-18-2010 09:40 PM)dropnosky Wrote:  

(09-18-2010 09:18 PM)willbhere4u Wrote:  I would think any thing dangerous would get caught in the pick up screen!

... and did not even blow up once!

Well that's great news...! I have only seen a couple motors blow up more than one time... Not a pretty sight

I tried the turbo injectors in my 240d turbo all it did was nail really bad something to do with the higher pop pressure affecting timing the turbo cars have 2* more timing? or something

Any progress on your turbo set up? I should take some more videos of mine running!

(09-27-2010 08:12 PM)willbhere4u Wrote:  Any progress on your turbo set up? I should take some more videos of mine running!

I'm working on it...got to make some cash too I think I finally came up with a solution to the back exhaust port. The 300 manifold is a little bigger than the 240 so once I get it completed I will post some pics and ship the manifold off to CT.

Right! I forgot about the back exhaust port. Let me know if you need a spare manifold I have 2 turbo manifolds I will donate if needed!!!!

rough weekend for the 240, may have done some damage or bent something Have to look into it further. Managed to slide out the rear on some leaves and bash into some pot holes on a highway entrance ramp. The day earlier, blew a front tire on a curvy rough road and did some swerving there also.

Control of the car feels subtly different, seems to track differently now. Front end still feels tight, but it seems to be crabbing slightly.

Thats not good!

(09-28-2010 12:29 PM)Captain America Wrote:  Thats not good!

Not good indeed!

Hopefully it's just a bent control arm.

.

damn. I was out there with a tape measure and a flashlight, its a rust related problem. Ive apparently managed to slightly twist the entire rear subframe in relation to the body of the car because the forward mounts are so weak. The side that I have not finished repairing is pulled out slightly, and the repaired side is pushed in slightly. The passenger side tire is back a little, and the driver side is forward a little.

Both the front subframe mounts were barely attached to the car, only by rust, one I reattached a little better, but when I slammed into the pothole with the passenger side in a skid, it must have pivoted a hair and pushed in on the driver side where I used some over thin metal from the fender to repair the hole.

Weighing options on what to do now. Its theoretically fixable if I make some new mounts and try and line the tires up straight with the front wheels, but will be hard to do perfectly. Despite all the rust labor thats gone into this car, it might not be worth the amount of work. The subframe itself appears perfectly fine, just the body is falling apart.

the crazy thing is I just drove 300 miles with it slightly twisted, and with the wheel cocked a hair to the right, you can compensated for the twist, but I am definitely sanding tires.

That sucks man. Sounds like you need to move to Cali and leave your rust troubles behind

(09-28-2010 03:05 PM)Captain America Wrote:  That sucks man. Sounds like you need to move to Cali and leave your rust troubles behind

That or stop buying 300-500 dollar rust heaps locally. I may have learned my lesson. Im gonna see if I can pull the subframe back with a come along first. If I put it up on 4 jacks, maybe I can pivot it back and then reinforce it. If that does not work, this will become a parts car.

does not look super promising, but I managed to get another 5000 miles out of a nissan truck when the frame rusted through and completely cracked behind the engine. It was still rolling when I sold it, we welded the bejessus out of the frame on that truck, but the MB unibody might not be such an easily repaired issue.

heres how the truck turned out, it was 1/4 inch plate on 3 sides-

   

Well I am officially bummed! I was rooting for that car to see several winters to come.

I have an idea. Since a greater ground clearance would be better for your winters up over there, maybe you can weld on some blocks at the subframe mounting points and use w126 springs to keep the geometry. Welding up some blocks would effectively fix the issue. Just thinking out loud.



.

(09-28-2010 04:39 PM)DeliveryValve Wrote:  Well I am officially bummed! I was rooting for that car to see several winters to come.

I have an idea. Since a greater ground clearance would be better for your winters up over there, maybe you can weld on some blocks at the subframe mounting points and use w126 springs to keep the geometry. Welding up some blocks would effectively fix the issue. Just thinking out loud.

Interesting. I will have to look into this.

(09-28-2010 09:34 PM)dropnosky Wrote:  

(09-28-2010 04:39 PM)DeliveryValve Wrote:  Well I am officially bummed! I was rooting for that car to see several winters to come.

I have an idea. Since a greater ground clearance would be better for your winters up over there, maybe you can weld on some blocks at the subframe mounting points and use w126 springs to keep the geometry. Welding up some blocks would effectively fix the issue. Just thinking out loud.

Interesting. I will have to look into this.

Hey wait a second.... You thought about this already.

I just seen this....

http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/gett...l#pid17994


I am now convinced this is how your going to fix this!




.

1000 miles after the hit, showing steel belt on a previously 40% life left RR tire. Im sanding the heck out of that specific tire, and less so the opposite side, fuel economy has predictably dropped big time. Also, keeping my eye on the the rear flex joint to the diff, although its probably OK so far being brand new as of 4 months ago, ironically it seems there is finally a real use for the factory U-joint on the drive shaft!

I just took the 4 tires/steel rims off the 115 and loaded them into the back seat of the 240 because I will not be able to do something about this for another 1000-1500 miles. The more spare tires and rims, the better. No passenger seat means I could potentially carry another couple rims as well!

have also been looking at replacement DD vehicles. I absolutely need a reliable distance driver, and I prefer it to be another 123 because I have a "psychological disorder preventing rational thought" according to my sister.

Looking more and more like the best and most realistic solution will be to park this car, replace it for now with another one, use the body for parts, then move the drive train to something else in the future. Maybe after turboing the engine, ill move this 4cyl into the 115? Ill have to think about what would be fun.

This little event is also a good opportunity to tear down the tranny and do something about 4th gear for good.

a suitable replacement car has been found! 1984 300D. The 240 will be semi retired to parts car status for now, but the turbo project will be completed! The motor in this car is very solid, I can think of tons of fun things to do with it. Ill start driving the 84 as a DD.

the cars compared- The 300 is an interesting mint color.
   

hell put the turbo 240 motor in the w115!

(10-06-2010 04:25 PM)willbhere4u Wrote:  hell put the turbo 240 motor in the w115!

Ive had this thought too. Im wondering if I space the 240 motor forward in the 115, I can avoid the oil filter clearance issue. Ill have to look at it later. Other thoughts are to cut the body in half and make any number of random contraptions. For now, it will just be parked and some of the interior will be harvested for the 300D.

The 300 has leather seats which I guess were originally tan, but are now an apalling torn purple color with broken springs.

I can look into fabbing a remote filter adapter plate if you want, shouldn't be too hard.
Helps that I'm bored out of my brain right now and looking for things to do.

the last 300 mile hurrah is over! (for now)

Good thing too, I think I pushed it a little bit, as I developed a bone jarring rumbling vibration in the last 100 miles of that run. Stopped 4 or five times and jacked the car up to make sure I wasn't about to lose a tire, or that the driveshaft was about to rip the flex joints.

She is officially parked! Plates are off, insurance is dropped, and Now harvesting or planning will take place. First I will keep it more or less driveable as it is until the turbo conversion is all done though. That way I can test it!

---

(10-06-2010 05:01 PM)300D50 Wrote:  I can look into fabbing a remote filter adapter plate if you want, shouldn't be to hard.
Helps that I'm bored out of my brain right now and looking for things to do.

Thanks for this offer, I may take you up on something when I figure out what to do with the drivetrain. After seeing how nicely the NA 617 fits in your Ram50, The idea of dropping this engine into an old small pickup is very appealing actually.

She was a good girl, sad she has to be laid to rest.

I will say, the sound of her going up the road at what I would assume was WOT was amazing!

---

Hands-down a 616 is a better fit for a Ram50, the motor mount locations line up perfectly, you can keep the radiator mounted in the same place, no issues with cutting the frame, etc.
And let's face it, I've already done all the hard work of getting the engine mated to a Mitsubishi transmission, so all you'd have to do is get a good 4x4 Mighty Max/Ram50 with a dead engine.

The other option is an Isuzu P'up if you can find one. Not sure how easy it would be to adapt though.

---

Or a Nissan hardbody...

(10-11-2010 03:42 AM)300D50 Wrote:  I will say, the sound of her going up the road at what I would assume was WOT was amazing!

Yeah! A straight pipe on these things is very gratifying, even with the 4cyl. It may not be fast, but it exudes presence as it thunders around. Its also not too loud, its a very acceptable level IMO, quiet when you want it to be.

The 5cyl with a straight pipe sounds like a baby cummins, it has a very distinctive note. Ill do that with my new car when I get around to it. Whats the plan on the Ram50 project, are you going to try and adapt the stock exhaust? I had a 4cly diesel Nissan where that was done, it was the Nissan SD-22 diesel, using the grafted gas motor exhaust with the cat cut out. Actually worked out pretty well

I can't understand these people who want quiet cars.

An old datsun pickup would be kick ass with a 61x motor..especially a turbocharged 616 with a 4 speed. That would be a sweet ride.


I have to say, driving down the street my car turns almost every head there is, all due to the exhaust, when i give her fuel shes loud and it sounds great, when i cruise around its just a slight rumble and it sounds great, and idle is almost as quiet as stock.

I LOVE the straight pipe, i cant wait to hear how the om616 sounds with a turbo

(10-11-2010 08:30 AM)dropnosky Wrote:  Whats the plan on the Ram50 project, are you going to try and adapt the stock exhaust?

If I can get this damn litter box out of the exhaust stream, I'll try to! No point in remaking an exhaust system if I don't need to, right?

She's open header for now and sounds so so sweet....

got my hands on this-

an unknown year, but probably late 90s NV3500 5-speed tranny originally from an S10.

   

These 4x4lab guys who have been working on adapters for the last couple years and finally came out with one, currently sell an adapter that would mate this tranny to the 616. Its not cheap, $900 something bucks, but comes with flywheel and all that stuff all done.

The reason I was intrigued by their kit was this pic-
   

Notice how they have moved the starter location down to beneath the oil filter housing on the driver side. The advantage to this in my application would be that it would completely eliminate any potential starter/exhaust manifold/turbo heat issues that may develop by the proximity of all these parts on the passenger side.

the question then becomes whats more cost effective? If I buy this kit which solves my starter problem, and according to them, comes with a custom flywheel and most everything to make it work for the money they are asking, would it be cheaper than solving/machining all these issues on my own?

With the NV3500, the eventual vehicle for this engine would be a square body S10 or Sonoma 2wd. I like those trucks, last model in 93, I hate the newer ones. Plus the advantage to the older chevy truck is that it came with a 8ft bed as an option on a small truck, which you can still find. Also, the NV3500 was used in later jeeps, like 2000 plus I think. I have to do some further research into the cable clutch apparatus, and see how difficult the connection on the other side could be and what tolerances are needed, then this engine/tranny could go in almost anything.

Plus an old enough vehicle would also get me past the federal legality issue dropping a diesel in a former gas vehicle. I owned an S10 for work for a while with the 8ft bed, and loved its basic look and simplicity. Heres a pic, I WISH I still had this truck for this application. Ill probably never find one as clean as this was, not for real cheap anyway, the one below was 500 bucks running with no rust. Try finding that deal in the north east.

   

That will be a cool project! Dude your starter isn't even attached to anything. Its just hanging in that car all caught up in the steering damper and exhaust and crap :-(

(10-27-2010 10:59 PM)Captain America Wrote:  That will be a cool project! Dude your starter isn't even attached to anything. Its just hanging in that car all caught up in the steering damper and exhaust and crap :-(

Lol, not what you meant, but standard removal is another reason why I find the fact that they moved the whole starter really interesting in their kit. I was measuring in there the other day, and even with the south facing starter, getting the starter out after an adapted 617 stock exhaust/turbo manifold setup has been installed is not going to be easy.

Everything fits with a stock starter, and with your south 6 oclock solenoid starter, the proximity issue would not really be an issue for the wiring as it is with the stock, bit Im thinking further maintenance.

If I ever have to take the thing out, it will go from basic greasy medium PITA to a labor intensive time consuming greasy PITA.

There would be no room above, and almost no wiggle room at all, Im not sure I would be able to pivot it up after removing the steering shock to get it out. Of course, in a different vehicle, the steering would be a different issue, but what they have done is made it way easier to also service the starter.

Come the time this project is done, its still an engine with a 30 year old starter on it, would be a PITA to have to pull the entire turbo manifold setup to make enough room to remove the starter, heat issue aside.

Just a consideration when you think about blowing a months rent on random shit.

By the way, don't worry about rushing to try and get that starter out in your broken condition, im not in any hurry, this post is not a subtle way to bust your balls captn'! Im thinking whatever starter I end up using might benefit from a position change.

you still have to test the block of pig iron I sent you! Could be so much scrap anyway

AMAZING!

You MUST register on HRCS when you start doing this!

Notice I said when, not if!

Oh, and the 616 adapters will work with a 617 as well, same pattern and whatnot, you just might run into the issues I did with the front pan hitting the swaybar.

I can see price vs time, you can do it cheaper given time, using the Benz flywheel and PP, a custom disc (easily bought), and a piece of 3/8" steel plate.
This assumes that you have enough engagement of the clutch splines to the input shaft splines once everything fits together.
If not, you move the flywheel forward with a spacer.
If the clutch fork hits the flywheel or if the TOB wants to engage the PP, you have to deck down the flywheel and use a different pressure plate.

Did seeing my truck cause this?

And is that a removable bell housing I see? If so, you might be able to bribe a certain someone to do some measuring on it with a CMM, but only if it's cleaned...

(10-28-2010 07:41 AM)300D50 Wrote:  Did seeing my truck cause this?

And is that a removable bell housing I see? If so, you might be able to bribe a certain someone to do some measuring on it with a CMM, but only if it's cleaned...

Unfortunately, its not a removable bell, I think that one is the NV3550 model. This one is actually built in the same basic construction as the MB trannys, but its twice as long and 2.5 times as heavy, with the nice solid shift of an internal linkage.

Yes, your truck had a hand in this. Also, there were two other factors, one, for work I need something with some cargo space and like most guys who need cargo space, but don't want to run about with a big ass F250, a small diesel truck is kind of a longstanding ambition.

Also, I used to own this-
   

A nissan truck with a SD-22 diesel swap.

Did I mention you need to register on HotrodCoffeeShop.com if you're doing any form of minitruck project?

Drats on the housing not being removable, it's a pita to find the pattern on the net.

(10-28-2010 08:43 AM)300D50 Wrote:  Did I mention you need to register on HotrodCoffeeShop.com if you're doing any form of minitruck project?

Drats on the housing not being removable, it's a pita to find the pattern on the net.

Ill register, I promise, but I have to do more than talk about it first.

The great thing about these GM trannys is that there are TONS of aftermarket adapters out there for all kinds of 4x4 and V8 conversions, you name it. People throw them in anything and theres lots of web info.

This particular model came in the following vehicles according to wikipedia-
* 1993–1998 Chevrolet & GMC CK with Vortec 4300
* 1999–2006 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 and 2500LD
* 1999–2006 GMC Sierra 1500 and 2500LD
* 1993–2003 GM S (S10 etc) trucks with 4.3 liter Vortec 4300
* 1994–2001 Dodge Ram 1500 [4]
* 1994–1995 Dodge Ram 2500 Light Duty
* 1994-2004 Dodge Dakota V8
* 2000-2001 Jeep Cherokee with 4.0L/AMC 242 I6: NV3550 [5]
* 2000-2004 Jeep Wrangler TJ & LJ with 4.0L/AMC 242 I6: NV3550 [6]

heres the close ratio gearing for the light duty trucks-
1 2 3 4 5 R
3.49 2.16 1.40 1.00 0.73 3.55

Ha! I haven't even opened the box yet.... Its just sitting in my room. Should I open the grease ball? Now I'm kinda interested lol

We need youtube clips of the straight pipes. Both Dropnosky and Garage.