what is pnw?

Pacific North West?

I'm out here in NoCo ie (No Coast) or Northern Colorado

Yeah, PNW is Pacific NorthWest. I used to live in Colorado Springs and Denver as well.

So here is the new color my exhaust manifold has decided to turn.

   

Seems maybe those may be the hotter spots?

looks like a bio hazard warning lol!

(07-27-2010 10:16 AM)Biohazard Wrote:  ....


   


Seems maybe those may be the hotter spots?

I find this pic fascinating. Notice the single runner is cooler than the two in one runners (right arrow) and the other interesting piece is it seems to be cooler at the bottom of the collector then the top (left arrow).

Thinking out loud, I wonder how much single runners would lower down EGTs?




.

hmmmm hm hm! Wouldn't losing too much heat in the exhaust hurt turbo performance? I know it does with gassers...? well the turbine wheel is spun by the left over expanding gases leaving the cylinders right? I dunno if this applies with the diesels...

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Bio, Do you have more pics of you IC/Intake manifold? that thing looks crazy!

(07-27-2010 11:37 PM)Captain America Wrote:  hmmmm hm hm! Wouldn't losing too much heat in the exhaust hurt turbo performance? I know it does with gassers...? well the turbine wheel is spun by the left over expanding gases leaving the cylinders right? I dunno if this applies with the diesels...

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Heat is good, but not too much heat. You'll start to melt the edges of turbine and have turbo failure.

I was thinking in terms of reducing very high EGTs during extended full load or WOT situations. Also if someone has a modified IP to put out more fuel, longer duration etc where an intercooler can only do so much.

Again, thinking out loud....


.

Hey Cap't, turns out all the pictures I have of the intake / intercooler are on the first page. I had a couple of when it was being welded up, but it seems they are gone. Doh!

I would love to have a custom tube header for my turbo that keeps each runner seperate till the flange... seems there was a thread somewhere about headers also. But, for now its just a dream and I'm ok with my exhaust manifold turning funny colors.

I am going to be running Tomniks 6.5mm elements, DervTuning actually has my pump now and it's waiting its turn for the magic to happen. So, once the pump is done, there may end up being a new color added to the manifold. Not sure which color is the next change from orange, to yellow, to ??? I took a good look at the manifold today at lunch, it has turned yellowish on the back side across from the turbo inlet also, just hard to see. I tried to take a picture, but it didn't show.

So, in reference to Delivery Valve thinking out loud (which is cool and usually brings up good things), once the pump is done and flowing more fuel, there may be a definate need for a better exhuast manifold. Or at least a better coating. Keeping the heat in (within reason), will result in better turbo performance and quicker spool up. But, creating hotspots or high pressure areas like this manifold seems to be doing probably isn't helping anything. I'm thinking its from the different exhaust flow directions inside the manifold banging into each other right at the turbo opening. Probably why the single runner hasn't turned color yet... A header would be kickass, but sadly it's down the list of things I'm going to be getting done in the near future. Unless someone decides to make some, then for the love of all thats holy, please PM me!

Another busy day in the cave...

Put on a new set of drive belts. The old ones were fair to crappy. Don't need the hassle of a broken belt in the middle of BFE on the way to Bonneville.

Moved the intercooler heat exchanger to the drivers side, behind the bumper. My dad came over and helped out some. He cut out the grill blanks so it has air flow now.

The exchanger was directly in front of the radiator. New spot...

   

Another view.

   

Had to trim a couple bits for clearance, but now the fan on the heat exchanger can run full time without blowing cold air through the radiator. Also got a 1400cfm fan mounted onto the back side of the radiator. Should be good ish out in the desert.

Since the bumper was off, figured I'd address some air flow issues I had with my intake. It sits fairly near the radiator, and is only a cold-ish air intake. My dad did this to his W123 300D, here is my version.

   

Took out the passenger foglight and mounting assembly. Cut out the back side of the whole hole, now it's almost a straight shot to the air filter. Gave it a shot of black paint inside for good measure.

Here's my dads version, he used a chunk of an old brass lamp for the opening.

   

Here's my dads car. We're going to swap the 17's over to the Pumpkin for the trip to Bonneville. Those are stock MB C230 Sport wheels, no spacers needed.

   

Still have more to do before we're ready for a road trip, but it's getting closer. I'm so fricken ready for a vacation... 11 days to go!!

Nice, I thought about taking out the fog for an air intake but I decided that I like to fogs too much to remove them. Do you have pics of the front end before you did the cutting?

You mean on my SD or my dads D? I probably don't have pics of either, nevermind. Hell, I'll look anyways.

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Turns out I have a couple older pics... Here is the front of my dads car when I was trying on some 18's...

   

Here is the Pumpkin on the Salt Flats a couple years ago before lowering it.

   

ummm Both! lol I was actually wanting to see the before from the cutting you had to do for the IC radiator.

Oh. All we really cut was the grill opening on the bottom outside section of the bumper. It looks like a grill, but the openings aren't open. So, we opened them. It looks just like the grill opening in the center, but now it lets air through where it was just a fake grill before. I had to slightly trim the orange sheetmetal below the drivers headlight to clear the AN fitting, but you can't see it without that piece off. Also had to slightly trim the drivers side bumper alignment piece that holds the back of the bumper in place at the fenderwell opening. Just a 1/2 inch here and there to clear parts. I'll take a picture of the new grill opening when it's light out again.

Nice. doesn't sound too bad (like too much work)...

Took my dad about 5 minutes I think... LOL

Your pop's w123 is real nice, very clean.

Heh. Blurry photos and a thousand miles away makes it look like a champ! Haha! Thanks man! I'd call it a 20 footer, but I think I just did worse than that at the opening. My brother gave it a paint job, it's a salvage title and pretty rough on the side you can't see. He (we) actually got pulled over in it because the damage on the right side was so noticable to a cop. Thats why he painted it. He saw it and pulled around behind us! We were like Then we got the good news about having to get the car safety checked by the State Patrol. Vin showed clear when we got it, turns out it was a salvage. We thought it was just a crappy repair job. Turns out, it WAS just a crappy repair job. Live & learn.

Well it looks pretty sweet for a beater!

Can you get a photo of the whole front end with that air intake in place of the fog?

Yeah, she runs sweet! Looks way better with the flat black and maroon than the maroon with crap paint / body work repairs. I'll get a pic in a few days probably. I was just over there, seems I forgot to grab the spare radiator I need for the weekend. I'll get more pics when I'm there.

(08-02-2010 08:09 PM)garage Wrote:  Well it looks pretty sweet for a beater!

Can you get a photo of the whole front end with that air intake in place of the fog?

Got the radiator swapped over. Maybe I can quit smelling coolant for a while. Also got the oil change done, sec fuel filter, and relocated my propane regulator so I can fit a decent sized air filter. I've rebuilt 3 of my injectors so far with Monnark 314 nozzles. I had to quit, ran out of Brake Clean! So far the 3 are all set pretty dead on at 2k psi. Will do the other 2 tomorrow. Still have to replace my front flex disc and do a trans dump & fill tomorrow, too. I'll get that pic of my dads car Monday, he is out of town this weekend.

Took the car to the shop today to do the front flex disc, and see about tightening up the trans output shaft. The output flange had a bit of play to it that didn't seem right. Hoo boy, give me 4 and a half minutes in a locked room with whatever wrench swingin jackass put that output flange on last. "Stupid" crossthreaded on a standard coarse thread castle nut and didn't even get it tightened up all the way. Well, that explains the freeplay. Got a good look at the out put shaft, and the threads AND the splines are both buggered. I got it all cleaned up as best as possible, but it's going to need a new output shaft and flange now. I have a spare 300D non-turbo trans at my dads house, may have to see about robbing the shaft and flange from it if possible. I hope it fits.

Good news though, I got the other 2 Monark 314 nozzles done and all are balanced at 2k psi, give or take about 2 bar. Took it out and test drove it, those nozzles are GREAT!! Noticable difference on power. Hopefully it gives me some decent economy as well. But mostly I'm just happy to have more power. Bring on the SuperPump!!

Sounds good, I absolutely hate when I find things that are all halfast'ed by people. They need to be beat to say the least.

Are there different types of Monark nozzles? you built your own bench tester for them? Overall, how is the job of rebuilding them? Is it worth doing it yourself?

I know of 3 different types. There are the 261, 265, and the 314 nozzles. The 314 are for the 90-93 2.5 Turbo Diesel. I was running the 265 nozzles, and they were doing just fine. I got the 314s in search of more power. You can do a search for them on fleabay.

I built my own pressure tester following instructions I found online. I think it cost me about 75 bucks or so to do the whole thing.

If you do the nozzles and build your own pop tester, be sure to get a set of shims for the injectors as well. I had to reshim every injector to get them all balanced. It took me about 45 minutes each to rebuild and balance them after they were clean; but this was my 3rd set of nozzles. Give yourself a bit of time for the first set you do, and be sure to take a couple of good quality pics of how the injector parts fit together so you don't forget. I found that out the hard way. Had to decipher a picture in the manual. I took them apart and soaked them for a couple days in citrus cleaner to get the rust loose. It's definitely worth the time and effort to do the nozzles. My brother and I did a set of the 265s in his W115 300d non turbo and it was a world of difference in idle and drivablility. I've put a whole 20ish miles on the 314s so far, but I'm already liking them!

All right Cap't, here is the pic of the front of my dads car. He left the drivers side foglight in place to make it almost match.

   

Oh, the 45 minutes / injector included cleaning. I meant that they had been disassembled and soaking. I'd highly recommend the 314s, or the 265s at least. It's a job that is time consuming, but not super hard. Definately a job worth doing yourself. It's a good feeling to get it all back together and hear it running again.

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(08-02-2010 08:09 PM)garage Wrote:  Well it looks pretty sweet for a beater!

Can you get a photo of the whole front end with that air intake in place of the fog?

^^^ Well technically Mr. Garage wanted the pic ^^^ But I'll look too!

Yeah I think I will do them myself too, Its just like anything else.... Having the pride and knowing they are done right is the best feeling... Like your standing there looking at your car smiling and people are like "What the fuck is wrong with you?" and you say, "ugh, nothing, ....... go away"

Hahaha thanks for the pic bio!

I think that looks bitchin..it fits perfectly

(08-10-2010 10:12 AM)Captain America Wrote:  

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(08-02-2010 08:09 PM)garage Wrote:  Well it looks pretty sweet for a beater!

Can you get a photo of the whole front end with that air intake in place of the fog?

^^^ Well technically Mr. Garage wanted the pic ^^^ But I'll look too!

"

My bad! LOL

So I've had a very busy few days here... I was on the way home Sunday evening after work, and my tach and speedo started jumping all over and pegging out without the car getting any acceleration. Turned off the cd player and sure enough, lots of revving, no movement, little bit of grinding noise. I ended up having to get a tow home and got the car on jackstands after dinner. Pulled the drive shaft, and wouldn't ya know, the damn output shaft broke right next to where I welded it. But at least it held up for the trip to Bonnevile and didn't let go in the middle of BFE Nevada... I had a few days of vacation left, so I took Tuesday though Thursday off. I got the threads re-threaded on the output shaft and a used (off my 240D trans) flange put on with a new nut. It held torque putting it together, but only time will tell.

Since that was Sunday night, and Monday was Labor Day, I had a bit of time to kill while waiting on ordering my gynormous die needed for the output shaft. So, I got my ported out cylinder head installed!! I also installed a custom-made copper headgasket from Cometic, slightly thicker than standard. If my math is correct, this lowered the compression ratio down to 18:1. I also intalled my custom reground camshaft at the same time as the head. Since I had the cooling system drained, a new water pump, thermostat and upper radiator hose went in as well. Timing is currently set at 26 BTDC, I may end up advancing it another degree or two. It has a bit of smoke at idle, especially when it's cold. Once it warms up, it barely smokes at idle. I've only put about 35 miles on it so far, but it feels pretty good. There is a lot of tuning to do to get it where I want it; need to get my ALDA reset, and adjust the TC inside the pump, and fiddle with the timing some more. Once it was up to temp, I took it for a drive. I used to get compressor surge at about 11psi, now I can hit 15psi before getting any kind of very light surging! Once I get it sorted out, I'll hit the dyno again and see how it does.

Another thing I got done... I pulled the 2.65 rear diff out and reinstalled the stock 3.07. There should be a new pair of rear axles in the mail for the 240, so new axles and the 2.65 are going to be installed in that. Just got my Spicer u-joint yokes in this morning, going to be getting rid of those flex discs for good!

I'll upload some pics and more updates this weekend.

Hey biohazard, im glad to hear you got the ported head installed!
Notice any difference? Cooler temps? More power? Less smoke?

Do you have anymore information or pictures about your reground camshaft? What did you change on it?


What is the purpose of lowering the compression?

(09-10-2010 08:31 PM)garage Wrote:  Hey biohazard, im glad to hear you got the ported head installed!
Notice any difference? Cooler temps? More power? Less smoke?

Do you have anymore information or pictures about your reground camshaft? What did you change on it?


What is the purpose of lowering the compression?

Couple of differences: it nails pretty loud at idle. Need to replace the injector return hoses and mess with the timing some more to see if that helps. Once it is up to speed and into the rpms a bit, the nailing goes away completely. I'm sure some of it is caused by the lowered compression, though.

Seems to have lowered the egt on full acceleration, but honestly I was fixated on the boost gauge hitting 15! The egts were a bit higher going up a steep hill by my house at normal cruising speed. I'll see about trying to take note of temps at cruise and at WOT on the way home tonight.

I have only put a little bit of milage on it, but it does seem to have a bit more power. Hard to say for sure though. I've been suffering from compressor surge with the stock head and wasn't able to get any usefull acceleration over about 3200 rpm without getting surge around 11-12psi. Once I get the setup sorted out, I'll be hitting the dyno for sure. But it does feel a bit stronger on power. Also, the propane helps it spool much faster.

NO smoke at full throttle. At all. So, under WOT I have room to add more fuel. And that is the main purpose of lowering compression. With the lower compression ratio, you can shove more air into the cylinder and hence more fuel too. More fuel, more power!

The camshaft has a bit more lift and a bit more duration. My friend has a camshaft regrinding business, thats about all I know on the cam specs. I told him what my goals were as far as power and powerband, he took my spare cam and gave me back a nice shiney one with promise of more power! Once I get this thing dialed in and dyno'd, I'll see what he wants for doing more of them. I'm also running a thicker than stock headgasket though, so I had a bit more 'wiggle room' on cam duration/lift before getting too close to the piston.

So cruising down the highway at 60, the EGT gauge averages about 500. Holding 55mph, going up the steep hill (6ish%, about 3/4 mile) by my house, the EGT went up to about 900. I hit WOT a couple times on the way to work this morning, I only saw about 1000 max on the gauge. But, I was able to get the car to smoke when I started getting surge again around 15 psi. I ran the engine at WOT to 4400 rpm, hit 17psi (more compressor surge), but the thing was pulling like a raped ape!! I backed out my boost control when I got to work, will see if that helps at all on the way home.

Edit: Pictures tomorrow! I didn't bring my laptop today...

Backing the boost off didn't help any. Still goes up to 14ish and starts surging. Meh. May have to downsize the turbo for a bit till the Superpump is done.

Pics, as promised.

Pumpkin being delivered back home.

[attachment=3553]


Emergancy welding job on output flange. This lasted 3k miles!!

[attachment=3554]


Back side, shows broken output shaft. Broken just where the locating post necks down to the threaded area.

[attachment=3555]


Engine compartment with old head off.

[attachment=3556]


Mating surface of new cylinder head.

[attachment=3557]


Copper head gasket from Cometic.

[attachment=3558]


Thats all the pics I took. It turns out my engine has been rebuilt at some point in its life. The pistons are all #1 oversize, and the cross hatching is still nice and clean. Should have taken a pic, but I was busy cleaning the block surface.

So I take it that the turbo is out flowing the 617 in terms of CFM which is resulting in the compressor surge?

Yeah, basicly the turbo is just too big for the engine right now. Maybe once I get the Superpump installed and get more fuel through it it will work better. Whats happening is the turbo is pushing boost, but not enough actual airflow, so the compressor wheel actually stalls and restarts very rapidly. Sounds like crap, very brutal on the turbo assy, and makes black smoke due to airflow loss. According to the turbo map for this compressor (TO4E), at 2.0 Pressure Ratio (about 15psi), its surgeline is at around 20 Lb/Min airflow. Thats about the max airflow at the same Pressure Ratio as the stock turbo. I either need tons more air flow through the engine, or a slightly smaller turbo. More like a T3-55 trim or a T3-60 trim at most probably. I'm going to stop by the turbo shop over by my dads house this Wed or Thurs and see what they have.

WOO HOO! #1 oversize means you've got an extra 1cc of displacement! If you go 2nd over you'll get a genuine 3.0L displacement instead of 2.998 or 2.999.
More fuel won't change the engine's airflow consumption or the turbo's surge line. It just means the wastegate will open more.

Do you have any sound or video of the compressor surge? I've heard it on a gas motor when the is no BOV and the throttle snaps shut, but no one a diesel.

Well that's good to know that I have the right compressor setup with my T3-60 trim

(09-12-2010 10:53 PM)Captain America Wrote:  Do you have any sound or video of the compressor surge?

Surge is surge. It should sound like this:

Cool vid, That's the BOV we had on the TT mustang.... Those things are awesome!

Thats a great vid thanks!

How about surge when shifting? Preventable? dangerous or bad/harmful for the turbo? Sometime I'll back off the throttle when shifting so the boost is lowered to where it would be after the shift. For example in third I might be @ 9lbs. but then shifting to 4th, the boost would drop to 6lbs...

Shifting is a kind of surge, but the airflow reverses due to loss of torque (exhaust volume) driving the compressor. Its closer to throttle flutter than true surge.

I could do the same thing in my wagon.

So its not exactly the same as a surge under power because both the exhaust and intake volumes are slowing down equally... at that point its just the turbo that is still spooled up right?


Here is some major surge huh?





If I rev the motor high enough it will not "surge" and boost will remain constant through the shift.

That is some impressive surging. Mine isn't quite that bad, but still irritating. I'm fabbing an exhaust adapter for the stock turbo to my v-band connection tonight. I'll be be putting that back on as soon as I get another silicon adapter. Once it's on, the car should be able to run to redline again. As it is now; it flutters, fluctuates, and surges. Also, it smokes pretty bad at part throttle, the bigger turbo just isn't flowing enough air at low rpm / part throttle.

Slightly off topic, but what died in your dead aux coolant pump, the motor?

Mine just needed a new o-ring and the motor lubricated.

Lucky! Mine needed a new impeller.

The motor in mine was dead. I opened it up, it was about eleventy different kinds of corroded and ugly.

Great thread, love the word, and updates.

Got the stock turbo swapped back on, and holy crap it's nice to have some throttle response again!! I hadn't realized how much slower to respond that T3/T4 hybrid was. It still starts to run out of air (stock turbo) at higher rpm's, but at least it holds boost steady again! I'll hold onto the bigger turbo for when the 6.5mm elements are done... I had dyno'd the Pumpkin with the ported head/ cam/ bigger turbo, it only made about another 5hp/tq once the turbo spooled up. I thought I had the dyno in my email, but it isn't there. I'll have to look for it again. The dyno graph really isn't that impressive, but I'll post it when I find it.