I bought a 1983 mercedes 300d parts car that has sat for possibly ten years that the tranny went out on. The motor was supposed to be good though. After messing with the car for a few hours i finally got the car started with some starter fluid. I have changed both filters and have both fuel lines running into a cup of diesel. After it started and died started and died it finally stayed running but just continued to gain RPMs and wouldn't shut off even with the shut off valve under the hood. I had to cut the air supply off to get it to die. It will fire right up now but i continue to have to same problem and no throttle response what so ever. Any ideas? The cup of new fuel is always a real dark color after the car has run for just a little time.

Sounds like a stuck rack in the pump to me. Remove the shutoff actuator and look to see if everything inside moves freely. You could also remove the top cover (under the ALDA) to get a better look.

same idea with stuck rack.
There is a cap on the front side of the IP above the flange.
Remove this cap and get the rack moving freely.

Tom

Dont ever use starter fluid. WD40.

Thanks guys as soon as i get a day off work i'll give it a try.

And we tried using WD40 and couldn't even get it to hit. I'm not sure if the motor has much compression. But it was cheap enough if its just a parts car.

I kind of started in to the car tonight. Is it necessary to remove the oil filter housing to get a good view of the pump? and i'm not sure What Cap you are refering to on the front of the pump. I'm sorry I'm pretty new to diesels and trying to learn every thing i can over the internet since i don't have anyone else to help. I am absessed with these Mercedes diesels and any help is extremely appreciated.

(09-07-2010 09:21 PM)cbryan0222 Wrote:  I kind of started in to the car tonight. Is it necessary to remove the oil filter housing to get a good view of the pump? and i'm not sure What Cap you are refering to on the front of the pump. I'm sorry I'm pretty new to diesels and trying to learn every thing i can over the internet since i don't have anyone else to help. I am absessed with these Mercedes diesels and any help is extremely appreciated.

If you are trying to access the back panel on the IP, I had to remove the oil filter housing. Its a PITA (oil cooler hoses, dont over torque them), but if you havent done it yet its just a matter of time before that gasket starts leaking.

If you are trying to access the back panel on the IP, I had to remove the oil filter housing. Its a PITA (oil cooler hoses, dont over torque them), but if you havent done it yet its just a matter of time before that gasket starts leaking.
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No i haven't started yet. I didn't know if the rack could be seen from the top. (Underneath the ALDA) And also. Can adjusting the screw on the ALDA harm the car in any way?

No need to remove the filter body. A long screwdriver will reach around the back way and an offset screwdriver will get the hard to reach ones.


If I can get my claws in there, anyone can.

Quote:Can adjusting the screw on the ALDA harm the car in any way?

No. Its purely an emissions control device.

Quote:I didn't know if the rack could be seen from the top. (Underneath the ALDA)

Yes. Remove the ALDA and the c-clip holding the spring down and the cover will come free. Be careful not to let the spring shoot off somewhere.
   

The rack will be directly visible with the cover off. The shutoff actuator directly pulls on it.
   

This is what you're looking at.
   

The engine will run fine without the cover or ALDA, but try not to let the rod fall down with the engine running

Forced Induction thank you very much for the help. It is greatly appreciated and as soon as i get a chance to work on it. I'll let you guys know.

And also, Does anyone know if Sea Foam works like Diesel Purge? I ordered some Diesel Purge but its a pain to order, kind of expensive and i don't know if its over rated.

Don't bother with any of that snake oil. Buy some B99 or B100 biodiesel instead.

Well i was just curious because i have a 1982 300d turbo car with 168000 miles. The car is in great shape but seems to have a little miss. I figured it either had a partially clogged injector from sitting so long or needed the valves adjusted. I was going to do both and see if it helped any but i thought i might be wasting my money on the Diesel Purge.

Yes, its just 90% lantern/camping oil and 10% harsh solvents. It also doesn't do anything to address the fuel tank or underbody lines.

DP may help as a stop gap for doing the right thing which is pop testing you injectors. I have had some luck with it before but it is certainly not the end all solution.

I see. Well i am going to give it a try and see if that and adjusting the valves will take the slight miss out. As far as the parts car goes. I am having trouble getting the ALDA off. I can see down in the pump a little and it is all a very dark black color. The black will come off but it is nasty.... I can definately see this causing problems.

Okay. i got the ALDA off and The cover, (nothing is lost yet), I am having trouble completely understanding the system. Is the shut off valve supposed to pull down or back ?

Okay this is kind of hard to explain but here it goes.

When i first got in there, i pulled the throttle and the spring pulled back, when full throttle was reached the spring would spring back as if i let go of the throttle. I tried cleaning the system with carb and throttle body cleaner and now it seems as the throttle works fine except right after i push the shut off actuator. In which case the spring does the same thing one time only then works fine. And i'm not exactly sure if the shut off actuator is working properly either?

Today i put the pump back together and struggled to get the car started. Once the car started I still had no throttle response nor could i kill it. After thinking a little, i pulled the fuel line out of the powerade bottle till the return line was blowing air into the fuel bottle. The car still remained to run and to continue to gain rpms. So apparently its burning oil from either the turbo or stuck rings. I'm really not sure on whether i should continue to mess with the car or just stricly use it for parts? I also pulled an injector line and it had no fuel coming out. However the car had burned half of the fuel out of the bottle.

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(09-10-2010 06:28 AM)winmutt Wrote:  DP may help as a stop gap for doing the right thing which is pop testing you injectors. I have had some luck with it before but it is certainly not the end all solution.

Sorry I'm new to this but what exactly is pop testing?

(09-11-2010 12:05 PM)cbryan0222 Wrote:  Sorry I'm new to this but what exactly is pop testing?

Cleaning and testing of the injectors.