I installed the S/C today for fitment and I am very happy!!!!
As anticipated, I may have to modify the shock tower, but I am still working on a solution to that.
Here a few pics, enjoy:

   

   

   

Hope you dont have to lean that IP to far to adjust for timing . Looking good. Did you paint the block at some point?

(05-24-2010 07:58 PM)winmutt Wrote:  Hope you dont have to lean that IP to far to adjust for timing . Looking good. Did you paint the block at some point?

The M-pump is MUCH smaller than the MW and I have plenty of room to and fro. If I used the MW then injector lines would be in the way.

The block was that color when I go the car, Is it not the OEM color?

Are your oil cooler lines in good shape? I need a set so I might be interested Send me a PM with your price. Thanks!

1983 300D Silver Exterior/Black inside - Euro headlights, Ronal R9 15X7 wheels with 205/60r15 Michelin Pilot Exalto A/S tires
2007 Chevy 2500HD CCSB Duramax with about 400-500 rwhp depending on the tune I use

(05-24-2010 08:03 PM)Rudolf_Diesel Wrote:  The block was that color when I go the car, Is it not the OEM color?

I don't think black with rust polkadots was an option.

(05-25-2010 02:49 AM)ForcedInduction Wrote:  

(05-24-2010 08:03 PM)Rudolf_Diesel Wrote:  The block was that color when I go the car, Is it not the OEM color?

I don't think black with rust polkadots was an option.

It's Vitiligo, but we will take care of that...

Hey rudolfdiesel. Great project by the way love it.

Got a question what are you doing about the power steering issue, and the steering box.

(05-25-2010 10:50 AM)George3soccer Wrote:  Hey rudolfdiesel. Great project by the way love it.

Got a question what are you doing about the power steering issue, and the steering box.

Thanks. As far as power steering, I am using a pump from a Ford Contour with a pulley from a Lincoln Navigator and a reservoir from a 1970's vintage mercedes gasser. The fittings for the sterring box I bought from a place on the web to adapt to JIC fittings and I will use the reusable type hydraulic hose from Parker.

I am doing the same with the oil cooler as well. The A/C compressor is from a Ford S/C motor and I am still trying to figure the final adaptation of the hoses.

Check out the dual AC system compressors (Dodge caravan & many others) & maybe chill the water for the A/W intercooler?

Making some progress, right now it is just a mock up from the engine on stand to the engine in car. No matter how many times you measure it you have to change something. I had to flatten the S/C outlet for hood clearance, but I could stand to have a 1/4" more. I had to change the inlet design of the S/C as well, but that is no big deal. The S/C bypass required a minor mod to make clearance for the intake tubing also. Changing the inlet design affected the mounting of the fuel filter, so I need to relocate it as well. Small revisions, no major problems. I need to fabricate or but a new reservoir tank for the A/W too because the turbo to IC pipe hits the old tank. This change allows me to get a bigger tank and more capacity - so a win-win. This weekend I am going to R&R the timing chain, before I swap it out I will check the stretch on the old one for comparison.

Here are a few pics:

   

   

   

   

Can someone hand me a tissue?

(05-28-2010 07:51 AM)winmutt Wrote:  Can someone hand me a tissue?

Is that a good thing?

Tissue, hell, I need a roll of paper towels!

(05-28-2010 09:54 AM)E300TSC Wrote:  Tissue, hell, I need a roll of paper towels!

Me thinks my car needs a shower after that

Made some more progress this weekend, I have some pics...

   
Measuring Tming chain stretch with .080" of valve movement

   
Looks to be within specs at about 11 degrees, but to be safe I am changing because of the nature of the project

   
My two boys helping me install chain

   
View of chain with helping hands

   
Completed chain with proper crimps

   
Checking new chain with 080" movement

   
Seems to be the same as old chain, but better safe than sorry.

I also adjusted the valves and installed new motor mounts as well. The new motor mounts raised the engine about a half inch, which maybe a problem for clearance. Everything is a tight fit and I hoope they settle a bit. I plan on changing the trans mount in the hopes it is worn and will raise the rear of the engine and pivot the motor downward when installed.

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I also installed the A/C compressor and bracket, power steering bracket and pump, alternator, and water pump pulley and idlers/tensioner. A few pics of progress...

   
A/C bracket sans compressor

   
Power steering pump

   
Alternator and other pieces attached.

I need to make some clearnace for the belt as it comes off of the powersteering pump, it will hit the body. A little altering of the molecular structure should do the trick - BFH

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I still need to order some new motor shocks, my old ones were shot as well as the bracket the houses the shock on the motor mount bracket. Little by little it is coming to completion - I just need the Uber Pump and I can time it and finish the S/C install.

Going back to the picture of the exhaust manifold in post #120, I remember you mentioning using a DIY ceramic coating somewhere. Did you go this route or did you have a company do the work?

(06-01-2010 08:14 AM)E300TSC Wrote:  Going back to the picture of the exhaust manifold in post #120, I remember you mentioning using a DIY ceramic coating somewhere. Did you go this route or did you have a company do the work?

I did not do the DIY this time. It holds up well, but I wanted a bit more "bling". I used a local company that basically does the same as jet coat, but calls it turbo hot. It was around $175.00 for manifold and turbo housing/waste gate adapter - The parts are coated inside and out.

The DIY stuff is from Techline coatings based in Texas, but they have a warehouse about 70 miles away from me.

Thanks, good to know. I'll probably farm out the coatings to Jet Hot since they have a warehouse about 30 miles from me. On these setups, there's so much stuff in close proximity to each other that it's critical to have optimal heat shielding. I'm not trusting myself for a job like this right now.

looking good I'm darn Impresed!

Got a few more things done, little by little it is coming together, a few pics of progress...

   
16" Electric fan

   
Power steering pulley/belt , needs a little more room BFH to the rescue

   
Bypass with temporary air filter

   
Top view of inlet and outlet

   
Serpentine belt installed, I am able to turn over the motor by just turning the super charger pulley nut

   
Another view of plumbing

Looking great so far, thumbs up .

Are you planning to use the e-fan alone, or you going to use the clutch fan as well?

(06-03-2010 04:15 AM)Deni Wrote:  Looking great so far, thumbs up .

Are you planning to use the e-fan alone, or you going to use the clutch fan as well?

Thank you. The fan is rated at 2700 CFM and should provide sufficient air flow for cooling. I plan on only running the electric with a t-stat control and bypass switch for manual operation and see how she works. There would not be enough clearance to run both. I have a tote in my trunk that I use for spare parts and I will carry the old fan for a "just in case" situation.

What will be done about the vacuum pump inlet?

(06-03-2010 06:15 AM)ForcedInduction Wrote:  What will be done about the vacuum pump inlet?

I have a custom bent line that will mate to the OEM location. I don't have everything mounted yet, I am still waiting for the pump so I can install and time. Once I get the pump then it is balls to the wall to get it done. I plan on changing the flex discs, Bowden cable, trans filter and service this weekend.

That filter looks awfully small.

(06-03-2010 07:33 AM)winmutt Wrote:  That filter looks awfully small.

It is only for mock up, I can use one that is 2 inches longer. The filter I am going to use is an AEM dry filter. The filter I was using with my T3/T4 was similar to the one pictured size wise and was rated at 800CFM.

Looking good MAN ))) I really would like to check your car in person ))))
I might take my car to a dyno and then if you would like, i can drive to show you mine.
BTW, i would like to ask you about your BYPASS's actuator, under how many PSI it will open the valve?

(06-03-2010 10:55 PM)supercharged3.0 Wrote:  Looking good MAN ))) I really would like to check your car in person ))))
I might take my car to a dyno and then if you would like, i can drive to show you mine.
BTW, i would like to ask you about your BYPASS's actuator, under how many PSI it will open the valve?

Thanks, when she is done we can meet at Irwindale on a Thursday night and do a few 1/8 mile runs.

The Bypass valves will actually work off of a vacuum signal. Both the 70mm and the S/C bypass will be open at idle, when the throttle is depressed 2/3 - 3/4 of the way a switch will activate a solenoid valve and the valves will close, when boost reaches ~10 psi, the solenoid valve will de-energize via a pressure switch and the valves will open. I will play with the boost setting to get it right. I also plan on installing a manual switch that will close the valves at idle for a "launch" mode.

What about the automatic's VCV? That would give a more linear response to throttle input.

(06-04-2010 05:35 AM)ForcedInduction Wrote:  What about the automatic's VCV? That would give a more linear response to throttle input.

I am eliminating the VCV's and using a later model throttle assembly with the micro switch and single cam to control the vacuum. The VCV control cam could work, but you are just using two switches and two cams and a awful looking mess to have a little more control. The switch is fully adjustable and I can set the actuation anywhere in the range of throttle movement. I could see a benefit if my driving habits dictated that I depressed the throttle in a slow and methodical manner, but it is such a miniscule amount of time from 0 to 3/4 that I probably won't see a problem. I will test as planned and see how it works, I am a more hands on tester than a theoretical tester.

It is essentially going to work as a control for the S/C bypass. On gassers the bypass is open due to manifold vacuum until you floor it and the vacuum drops and the valve closes. From the feed back I was getting on the pump testing, smoke was not a real issue, so at low boost, along with my ALDA unit, I should be fine. I am only trying to alleviate some parasitic loss at idle and low RPM function of the S/C.

(06-04-2010 06:38 AM)Rudolf_Diesel Wrote:  you are just using two switches and two cams and a awful looking mess to have a little more control.

What mess? There is less tubing in my system than was in the factory EGR control.

(06-04-2010 07:19 AM)ForcedInduction Wrote:  

(06-04-2010 06:38 AM)Rudolf_Diesel Wrote:  you are just using two switches and two cams and a awful looking mess to have a little more control.

What mess? There is less tubing in my system than was in the factory EGR control.

I was not referring to your system design, I was eluding to the OEM design. If your system works for you then kudos to your deisgn prowess. I was just stating that I am trying to keep it as sanitary as I can, thus less is more. I am not completely opposed to using the valves, it is just not my initial design. The end result will be the same.

Uh why not just a internal turbo wastegate actuator that opens at like 10psi no vacuum required.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-bS3SgjB-eg

(06-05-2010 01:41 PM)Kozuka Wrote:  Uh why not just a internal turbo wastegate actuator that opens at like 10psi no vacuum required.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-bS3SgjB-eg

Good point, however I want it open at idle as well so that S/C is completely bypassed at idle = no boost. Also, I already has the vacuum motor and the size is more compact than the one in the video. My original prototype was as monsterous as the one in the video as well.

It is no problem to run the switch and valve, the valve is a MAC valve and very robust.

So when will your injection pump be done?

(06-05-2010 03:25 PM)Rudolf_Diesel Wrote:  however I want it open at idle as well so that S/C is completely bypassed at idle = no boost.

The smaller bypass on the supercharger can do that.

We shall see, but I don't believe it will hurt it. When you build yours, then you can design and execute it any way you choose. This just happens to be the way that VW designed their unit and I am following as close as I can within the means I have.

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(06-05-2010 04:47 PM)squirrelmaster Wrote:  So when will your injection pump be done?

It is in transit, should be here next week.

This is insane good work there man

(06-05-2010 07:52 PM)andrecorreia Wrote:  This is insane good work there man

Thank you, it is almost sad this phase is coming to an end, but the trans will be a whole different thread.

I found a solution to my clearance problem. I made new motor mount brackets with an adjustable screw, some pics of the arms:

   
New arms sans gussets

   
Other side of arm

   
Driver's side

   
Passenger side

Gussets have been added and shock mounts to follow. This provides me with the proper amount of clearance and NO HOOD BUMP = Stealth

ha ha, well, I guess it should come as no surprise that you would come up with some extremely well made elegant solution to that problem after reading the rest of this thread!

I love those motor mount arms, should potentially be better than the cast aluminum oem too for your application, I have a pair of cracked snapped ones just on on a stock 617. It would not be fun to apply a little throttle and have them crack

(BTW, you can keep that oddball bell housing to cut up or whatnot if you want if its any use to the later thread for the rest of the drivetrain. I used some parts of the original tranny to repair my utility trailer, its never going back together)

(06-06-2010 07:10 PM)Rudolf_Diesel Wrote:  ...
I found a solution to my clearance problem. I made new motor mount brackets with an adjustable screw, some pics of the arms:
...... This provides me with the proper amount of clearance and NO HOOD BUMP = Stealth

I dig this solution. Another great idea... Gonna have to copy that one if I need it!




.

just a feeling: I'd add stiffening ribs to the supports...
or try to combine the stock ones and the adjusting screws


Tom

(06-06-2010 11:19 PM)tomnik Wrote:  just a feeling: I'd add stiffening ribs to the supports...
or try to combine the stock ones and the adjusting screws


Tom

I took the picutres as I was mocking up the brackets. I have added gussets to the brackets, the drivers side is on the bottom to give clearance for the pump and the passengter side is on top.

The stock ones will not work because they are not completely solid, there is a cavity on the passenger side. My initial thought was to machine it to size, but that would severly weaken the arm. This design allows me to adjust for sag on the mounts and almost 20 mm of adjustment.

I under stand that you have to unbolt the arm from the mount to adjust it but if it had a bolt with the lock nut you could adjust it a lot easier I would think?

Then all you have to do it loosen the bottom mount bolt, and lock nut and then turn it till proper height is desired and lock it all back down

(06-07-2010 09:40 AM)willbhere4u Wrote:  I under stand that you have to unbolt the arm from the mount to adjust it but if it had a bolt with the lock nut you could adjust it a lot easier I would think?

Then all you have to do it loosen the bottom mount bolt, and lock nut and then turn it till proper height is desired and lock it all back down

You guys are getting ahead of me

You mean something like this?

   

You must fit and then the final details grass hoppa.

de de de well done!

(06-07-2010 12:27 PM)willbhere4u Wrote:  de de de well done!

A Carlos Mencia Fan I see

I have the completed brackets, gussets and adjustment screws complete, a few pics - Shock mount design to follow.

   

   

good stuff there

looks good!

I can not wait to see some new pics )))))))) lol