Bought this beauty early 2005 and has been my daily driver for several years.


I drove the car as original the first year, in 2006 i decided it was time to do some upgrades and installed intercooler and did some pump modificaton, also the turbo was serviced and go different compressor wheel.







After that i installed nice AMG rims and xenon headlights:




At the same time i noticed that using several manual gauges was painful and i didn't want to destroy the dash so i installed digital gauge with everything in same unit:

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2006 winter i drove lot, my daily trip was over 300km so i noticed i need some entertainment to the car. So i started new project: multi core multimedia system







After the long winter i noticed that the intercooler project was i success, my fuel mileage got much better and the engine was cooler, also there was more torque.
So much more that the transmission started to slip jan-feb 2007.
After that i drove lighter and tried to maximize the transmission pressure and that helped for few months. But in April i went to an transmission specialist who serviced my tran. and upgraded it to handled over 500Nm of torque for future upgrades.

New transmission was very good and it shifted like anything before
But in autumn 2007 the car failed smog test and i decided it was time to buy another daily driver.
Oldtimer's status got changed from all year around car to summer car and the engine was going to be serviced from bottom to top

will continue

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Dec 2007 in my garage:


Lifting the engine off


Nice....



Head off, cylinders looked good from distance, but needed service:



The head itself was in good shape:

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Removing bottom layer:


Turbo oil pump:


This is why EGR is evil



Bottom end looked good no major problems:



Also the crankshaft were okay:


Pistons also okay, but few of the rings were damaged pretty badly
Here you can see marks from the rings:

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The head was ultrasound cleaned and mildy ported.
After this it got two layer paint coating:


Also the block was ultrasound cleaned and got new paint:





New parts from good dealer from US:


Some new oversize pistons:

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I also decided to change all gears in the engine.
Then engine and chassis had over 600 000km prior service:



Block straight from machining and ready for build up:



Difference between red block volvo rods and om617 rods:


Also decided to renwe all the front suspensions parts, they were pretty worn out:



Powder coating makes big difference to old parts:

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Head ready build and installed on the block


Injectors with new silencio nozzles:


Engine looks much better:


Here it goes back in:


It took some while to come to this phase, i had problems to find OM617A parts, especially the pistons were a big headache.
At the mean time i had the chassis fixed from some rust problems in the wheel arches. I removed those annoying chrome thingies from arches and found some nice rust:


Also the injector pump was changed from MW to OM602 M pump, pump was serviced and upgraded by PP-Diesel in Finland.
It has lraged 7mm elements, custom boost controlled "ALDA" and is tuned for high horse powers.

It took whole 2008 to get the engine serviced and back to the car.

So now to the good stuff, bigger turbo
Turbo is a master power 322 from Hevosvoima.com

Exhaust manifold done by KKDMotorsport
Turbo and manifold installed, looks much better than the original mini turbo



Around April 2009 it was time for first start.
Everything worked okay and the engine started nicely.

Video at youtube

I had some other projects whole summer and the 300SD was standing in garage.
But around December 2009 I decided it was time to re-start the project.
Everything else was ready, only intake manifold was missing, so it was time to start build and custom intake. I had in mind to use original turbo intake but noticed quite quickly that it was bad idea

So i started from scratch:



New intake fits nicely with new exhaust manifold:



As the turbo was without wastegate I installed and external wastgate:

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Here are the latest shots from last weekend, made some thermal wrapping around manifold and few finishing touches:



Engine works nicely with boost, needs few things before going to dyno.
Also going to install my latest version of supermeter:

Why would you need a wastegate with such a humongous turbine?

(01-04-2010 04:14 PM)ForcedInduction Wrote:  Why would you need a wastegate with such a humongous turbine?

Just for getting better pressure control in different situations.
Also i'm going to try different turbine houses later on. Here in Finland we have lot of snow now, so no real road testing in months

Thats a really, really nice execution! Can't wait to see this thing complete! Beautiful job!

Pretty impressive that the engine still had nice cross hatching in each cylinder after 600,000 km.

Is there a reason you are just putting a filter on your CCV output? or are you intending to run that into the intake or add an oil seperator? My concern would be that after all that spectacular restoration work, it would be a shame to vent oil vapor onto all those nice new clean parts.

(01-05-2010 09:38 AM)dropnosky Wrote:  Thats a really, really nice execution! Can't wait to see this thing complete! Beautiful job!

Pretty impressive that the engine still had nice cross hatching in each cylinder after 600,000 km.

Is there a reason you are just putting a filter on your CCV output? or are you intending to run that into the intake or add an oil seperator? My concern would be that after all that spectacular restoration work, it would be a shame to vent oil vapor onto all those nice new clean parts.

Thanks, it's nice to see somebody likes my execution
That's only for test runs, not going to run with filter only.
I have a breather tank ready, just need to get everything else finished

nice car keep up the good work!!!

I also have a 94 miata w supercharger

and sold an 85 Maserati biturbo E model with twin liquid intercoolers

(01-04-2010 04:14 PM)ForcedInduction Wrote:  Why would you need a wastegate with such a humongous turbine?

Actually that's a .70 T3 divided housing, and not that humongous. This one should be running near 300hp in the future with the same turbo so the housing isn't too big. Aaand it made a nice 0,5bar boost when revved without load.

(01-05-2010 06:54 PM)antonmies Wrote:  Aaand it made a nice 0,5bar boost when revved without load.

I very seriously doubt that.

(01-05-2010 08:46 PM)ForcedInduction Wrote:  

(01-05-2010 06:54 PM)antonmies Wrote:  Aaand it made a nice 0,5bar boost when revved without load.

I very seriously doubt that.

Well, I guess you can do that. I sleep well even if you are doubtful

Even the small stock T3 can barely make 7psi revving the piss out of the engine, a T4-clone with a large non-wastegated turbine (even a T3) I know for fact it isn't happening. The laws of physics still apply, even in Finland.

It has custom manifolds and a large injection pump I can see it happening!

Its still got only 250cfm going through the engine when free-revving around 5500rpm, no mater what pump you've got on it.

I got on my own 605 with same turbo 1bar just pumping.
And that new bigger Master make 0.5bar.

Jty: Nice job on the nice car

Here is a video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b07T05bzU40

Thats not a 617. The 605 flows a lot more air.

Nice, it sounds mean, and revs very quickly. Low inertia flywheel ?

(01-10-2010 02:26 PM)jeemu Wrote:  Here is a video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b07T05bzU40

(01-11-2010 12:37 AM)ForcedInduction Wrote:  Thats not a 617. The 605 flows a lot more air.

No its not and JTY has alot smaller turbo.

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(01-11-2010 11:47 AM)DervTuning Wrote:  Nice, it sounds mean, and revs very quickly. Low inertia flywheel ?

(01-10-2010 02:26 PM)jeemu Wrote:  Here is a video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b07T05bzU40

It has Special made CrMo flywheel and 228mm clutch.

(01-11-2010 03:26 PM)jeemu Wrote:  Thats not a 617. The 605 flows a lot more air.

It does actually, 4 valves makes a very big difference. Thats why the nonturbo OM606 makes as much power as the turbo 617.

(01-11-2010 04:04 PM)ForcedInduction Wrote:  

(01-11-2010 03:26 PM)jeemu Wrote:  Thats not a 617. The 605 flows a lot more air.

It does actually, 4 valves makes a very big difference. Thats why the nonturbo OM606 makes as much power as the turbo 617.

I didint wrote that in your guote and yes i know that 606 flows better and has one cylinder more, thats why i have 4valve/syl engine

(01-11-2010 12:37 AM)ForcedInduction Wrote:  Thats not a 617. The 605 flows a lot more air.

(01-11-2010 04:04 PM)ForcedInduction Wrote:  

(01-11-2010 03:26 PM)jeemu Wrote:  Thats not a 617. The 605 flows a lot more air.

It does actually, 4 valves makes a very big difference. Thats why the nonturbo OM606 makes as much power as the turbo 617.

Boost is created by restriction and better flowing engine gives greater potential with lower boost. Turbo isn't driven only by air, but combustion gases, and if the engine receives too much fuel, it tends to burn in the exh.header/manifold creating more boost by just increasing the rotation speed of the s/wheel. More boost gives more air and fuel pump gives more fuel by using the boost as reference, resulting even more boost. If you are having trouble having boost by just pumping the pedal, the engine may be running too lean to give the turbo enough kick or your turbo doesn't/didn't spin freely .

You may or may not believe the 0,5bar by pumping with the JTY's 617, I've seen the gauge and KNOW it happened. There is nothing to it.

There have been some doubts about the turbo being too large and not capable to boost 0.5bar without load. As antonmies said it's true and there's even an quick video on youtube.
And as last comment to this matter, who said the head is stock, there's no pictures of the head for good reason

Okay back to the track.
There have been some updates to my 300SD.
Went for few test drives and noticed that this thing is a killer in this weather, need to wait for spring. There was no traction at all and the suspension was not handling the added power anymore. So i decided that i need tougher springs.

I ordered a suspension set from Brabus:





Also there is now a new version of supermeter420-diesel with few new features specially for my setup:

Take some more videos of it running for youtube!!! very cool now you just need to do this set up for the w110 200d I've had a couple of those and they are pretty light would make for a fun car!!! I was thinking of dropping a OM617 in my 1958 Mercedes 219 w105

Nice work! It is nice to see a 300SD getting some upgrades. Can you post a couple more pics of the Intercooler piping? Thanks.

JTY, AWESOME work and writeup!!! We really appreciate you taking the time to document this and show it to us!

EDIT: How did you get stuck with US headlights in Finland?

(01-04-2010 04:14 PM)ForcedInduction Wrote:  Why would you need a wastegate with such a humongous turbine?

No offense, but do you ever have anything nice to say about someone else's work?

Wow JTY,

First time looking at this thread. Awesome work! You have done everything to your car that I wish I could do to mine! Can't wait to see the videos.

Had some quality time with my mercedes and got few things ready.
Breather canister, turbo final wrapping and supermeter installation with sensors around engine bay.

No more cold for my turbo:


Oversight of full setup:


Still to do new exhaust, for mean time i have 3" side tube on passanger side

That is one BEAUTIFUL machine! Keep up the good work man!

Had some fun with the old lady and did some touch up to some parts.
Added some chrome coating to manifold and tubing and black chrome to turbo. Now they should stay good for longer time.




Also pressure tubing got some chrome coating

That is an awesome car you got. Very nice attention to detail and good fabrication skills.

(01-17-2010 09:43 AM)Tymbrymi Wrote:  EDIT: How did you get stuck with US headlights in Finland?

I'm assuming they came attached to the SD they came with. Must have been fun getting that imported!!!!

Nice build, great pics. Beautiful work on intake and exhaust.

Can't wait to see some videos.

(02-12-2010 07:46 PM)winmutt Wrote:  

(01-17-2010 09:43 AM)Tymbrymi Wrote:  EDIT: How did you get stuck with US headlights in Finland?

I'm assuming they came attached to the SD they came with. Must have been fun getting that imported!!!!

Nice build, great pics. Beautiful work on intake and exhaust.

Can't wait to see some videos.

Thanks, will post some videos when weather gets warmer

I tought that it would be nice to keep car as original as possible with minor mods and i like US headlights
When it was imported to Finland they changed the lamps to Hellas H4 E-marked, that's it. It was easy to import these old cars compared to new Mustangs where you need to changed all lights, all glass surfaces, blinkers and so on.

Glass surfaces?

(02-15-2010 07:59 PM)winmutt Wrote:  Glass surfaces?

Yes all windows around the car need to be changed to E-marked glass, really stupid, like DOT glasses are dangerous

man that looks nice.

Now the snow is gone in Finland and all roads are dry finally
I have made few runs in different situations, master power turbo seems very capable

Here's video very adjusting the injection pump, first time out this spring:
http://youtube.com/watch?v=wBXEhcx0ErE

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Made few runs yesterday and found out that the car is suffering from fuel starvation on higher pressure, need to consult with the pump guru.
It seems that RPM limiter is catching too low and limitin the fuel.

Here's video where you can see how it goes way too lean:
http://youtube.com/watch?v=BnsbmBIV8XA

There is no such thing as too lean, 19:1 is perfect.

(04-14-2010 06:40 AM)ForcedInduction Wrote:  There is no such thing as too lean, 19:1 is perfect.

Yeah, when cruising part throttle.

JTY, did you raise the RPM limit as per jeemus advice?

(04-14-2010 09:44 AM)antonmies Wrote:  Yeah, when cruising part throttle.

No, at full load.

The leaner you run (up to a point of diminishing returns obviously) the more of the fuel is in contact with oxygen, you'll be burning completely with maximum power and efficiency.

(04-14-2010 05:50 PM)ForcedInduction Wrote:  

(04-14-2010 09:44 AM)antonmies Wrote:  Yeah, when cruising part throttle.

No, at full load.

The leaner you run (up to a point of diminishing returns obviously) the more of the fuel is in contact with oxygen, you'll be burning completely with maximum power and efficiency.

Hmm, so you honestly think that air makes power?
Ideal burning on diesel fuel happens at 14.6:1 AFR (Lambda=1) and I would say that the best power output is somewhere between 12:1 and 14:1. And that's what we are trying to do: More Power, not to save the planet.

(04-15-2010 06:52 AM)antonmies Wrote:  Hmm, so you honestly think that air makes power?

So, you think running rich makes efficient power?

Quote:And that's what we are trying to do: More Power, not to save the planet.

So you're also trying to run with high EGTs and put as much heat stress on the engine as possible?

Quote:the best power output is somewhere between 12:1 and 14:1.

In other words, smoking, the best thing for the Diesel's image around the world (not).

(04-15-2010 06:52 AM)antonmies Wrote:  Ideal burning on diesel fuel happens at 14.6:1 AFR (Lambda=1)

I would suggest reading up on the "smoke limit" for diesels. For diesels it is usually somewhere around 18 or 20:1.

(04-15-2010 09:45 AM)Tymbrymi Wrote:  

(04-15-2010 06:52 AM)antonmies Wrote:  Ideal burning on diesel fuel happens at 14.6:1 AFR (Lambda=1)

I would suggest reading up on the "smoke limit" for diesels. For diesels it is usually somewhere around 18 or 20:1.

Smoke limits are smoke limits, it has nothing to do with power.
Still we are not saving the planet, just making best power output as possible
Dieseli stoichometric is 14.6:1, gasoline 14.7:1 and so on.
Best power output comes around 13:1 and best fuel economy around 16:1.

(04-15-2010 08:50 AM)ForcedInduction Wrote:  

(04-15-2010 06:52 AM)antonmies Wrote:  Hmm, so you honestly think that air makes power?

So, you think running rich makes efficient power?

Quote:And that's what we are trying to do: More Power, not to save the planet.

So you're also trying to run with high EGTs and put as much heat stress on the engine as possible?

Quote:the best power output is somewhere between 12:1 and 14:1.

In other words, smoking, the best thing for the Diesel's image around the world (not).

Increasing power usually increases stress on the engine. Or do you have some other info?
High EGTs are not a symptom of too rich condition but combined with too little advance causes the air-fuel mixture to burn partially in the exhaust manifold dramatically increasing EGTs and overall heat load on the engine (quite similar as running with late ignition advance on a gasoline engine).

I don't think that a 12:1 would make that dense smoke.

Of course in normal driving conditions the engine should run as lean as it goes, but what comes to making power, you'll have to feed her properly.

(04-15-2010 01:58 PM)JTY Wrote:  Smoke limits are smoke limits, it has nothing to do with power.

Actually it has everything to do with power. If you're smoking you're pumping fuel (and power) out the exhaust, simple as that.

Put the engine on a dyno with the same injected fuel quantity and a 13:1 and 19:1 AFR and I'd bet good money the 19:1 makes more power while running cool enough to make that power for longer.

(04-15-2010 02:30 PM)ForcedInduction Wrote:  

(04-15-2010 01:58 PM)JTY Wrote:  Smoke limits are smoke limits, it has nothing to do with power.

Actually it has everything to do with power. If you're smoking you're pumping fuel (and power) out the exhaust, simple as that.

Put the engine on a dyno with the same injected fuel quantity and a 13:1 and 19:1 AFR and I'd bet good money the 19:1 makes more power while running cool enough to make that power for longer.

Total smokeless yo dont got all power. Grey mist is good.
These mechanical pumps is wery hard tune at car not smoke too much some rpm, thats why we are modified alda and pump timing wheel.

(04-15-2010 02:30 PM)ForcedInduction Wrote:  

(04-15-2010 01:58 PM)JTY Wrote:  Smoke limits are smoke limits, it has nothing to do with power.

Actually it has everything to do with power. If you're smoking you're pumping fuel (and power) out the exhaust, simple as that.

Put the engine on a dyno with the same injected fuel quantity and a 13:1 and 19:1 AFR and I'd bet good money the 19:1 makes more power while running cool enough to make that power for longer.

Don't see a wideband AFR meter in your car spec list, so how could you tell?

Basically you are on the right trail, but only if you don't give it more injection advance.

I guess that the grey mist mentioned by jeemu appears roughly at 13:1

(04-15-2010 02:51 PM)antonmies Wrote:  Don't see a wideband AFR meter in your car spec list, so how could you tell?

Diesels don't need such equipment, especially since soot will foul it and skew the readings over time.

(04-15-2010 01:58 PM)JTY Wrote:  Best power output comes around 13:1 and best fuel economy around 16:1.

Are these results from your AFR meter? When does it start bellowing black smoke, etc? I'm VERY interested in this since it would really change how much power you can get out of the engine as far as the calculations I'm using.

(04-15-2010 02:27 PM)antonmies Wrote:  High EGTs are not a symptom of too rich condition but combined with too little advance causes the air-fuel mixture to burn partially in the exhaust manifold dramatically increasing EGTs and overall heat load on the engine

How advanced over stock do you guys normally run? It sounds like modifying the timing device is absolutely critical to getting the high HP numbers we see. How do you know you've added too much advance? I think Jeemu said something about cracking prechambers?

(04-15-2010 02:39 PM)jeemu Wrote:  These mechanical pumps is wery hard tune at car not smoke too much some rpm, thats why we are modified alda and pump timing wheel.

Has anyone done any work with the electronic pumps yet? I think that would make a huge difference in what you dyno graphs would look like!

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(04-15-2010 03:16 PM)ForcedInduction Wrote:  Diesels don't need such equipment, especially since soot will foul it and skew the readings over time.

Need... no. Useful to have to gather data? Yes. Although they won't last long as you mentioned. A MAF sensor would give useful data even though it isn't needed on our mechanical diesels.

(04-15-2010 03:16 PM)ForcedInduction Wrote:  

(04-15-2010 02:51 PM)antonmies Wrote:  Don't see a wideband AFR meter in your car spec list, so how could you tell?

Diesels don't need such equipment, especially since soot will foul it and skew the readings over time.

Actually they do these days. If you go and see a newer more emission controlled diesel engine, you will see a wideband sensor in the exhaust manifold and sometimes also after the cat converter.
Too rich condition will skew the readings in time, higher EGTs also. Same is with the gasoline engines. Gasoline guys said only 5 years ago that who needs a wide band AFR gauge as narrow band does the trick. And 15 years before that, who needs a lambda meter, you can read the condition from the spark plug color. I think that too many diesel guy lives in that 20 years ago situation: "Just see the rear view mirror" similar to "light brown color is nice"...
I've worked with jeemu a lot during last few years (mostly related to turbocharger issues as I'm a Master Power distributor back here) and learned a whole bunch of info on diesels. And more I've learned, the more I think that they are pretty much like gasoline engines. The symptoms and the way they behave with late or early advance are quite similar as with messing around with ignition advance. The methods differ mainly because of mechanical fuel pump and mechanical everything, but the modern engines with ECMs are quite "the same thing".

Jeemu can answer more specific with the advance questions and the AFR readings I threw in are rough estimates. But as for the dark black smoke, I would say that comes in a region of 10:1. But as now we have the equipment, we are able to share hard data, not just some rear view mirror crap.