This thread will chronicle my attempt to run a Garrett GT2056 VNT from a Diesel Jeep Liberty on my 617. I bought the turbo from the ebay seller "qcparts" and was very happy with the transaction. I have seen this seller selling several others of these turbos.

The turbo arrived today. Though it was sold as a core it has minimal shaft play and spins freely. Here are some side by side shots with the stock T3:

The wastegate actuator from a 300SDL bolts in place of the vacuum actuator. (I will paint it when I make sure it works with this setup :roll: ) It is 2.5" in diameter. I now need to make a bracket to mount the vacuum actuator opposite of it. Hopefully it will have a cracking pressure of about 6 psi, if not I will use a helper spring to to adjust when it begins to open. The vacuum actuator begins to move with any vacuum applied and reaches full travel at 15 inches of Mercury (7.3 psi).

You realize that will only give you approx 7psi of boost correct?

How do you figure? Assuming no vacuum control (for now) and that the SDL actuator begins to open at about 6-7 psi it should behave very similar to ForcedInduction’s original setup before he added the cruise feature

We had spoken about it in some thread when I was trying to find out the best actuator to use. Although I believe he had a spring countering the vac.

I got the vacuum actuator mocked in place. When I make the bracket I will move the actuator about 1/2" closer to the turbo body. It currently hangs about 1" lower than the wastegate actuator of the stock T3.

Mine came with actuator and bracket, would you like me to take measurements?

Did yours come with a second actuator and bracket? Mine came with a vacuum actuator and the bracket and rod that the pressure actuator is now using. I will need a second bracket and rod to mount the vacuum actuator on the opposite side. It would be nice if I could find a second rod like the one that comes with the turbo, it is very easy to adjust.

We must be missing something here, how is the CRD controlling it then?

The default position on the Jeep is vanes open (low boost). The computer applies vacuum to close the vanes and increase the boost. In our case we want the vanes to open as vacuum is applied (more vacuum at low throttle) so the vacuum actuator needs to be moved to the opposite side.

I finished the bracket for the vacuum actuator. I now just need to shorten the rod and I can do some tests to see how the turbo responds to combinations of pressure and vacuum.

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Both actuators are now hooked up. I also shot a coat of paint on the pressure actuator. My oil drain fitting (<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=016&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=260222946099&rd=1">http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 46099&rd=1</a><!-- m -->) arrived and I installed it as well. It is going to be a tight fit routing the oil drain tube past that bolt head and around the vacuum actuator, but I think it is doable.

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I see said the blind man. Nice setup. Does it fit in the engine bay?

It should clear the engine mount arm by a inch or two.

I tested the actuators today. The 300SDL pressure actuator begins to open the vanes at 3-4 psi and fully opens them at 16-17 psi with no vacuum applied. Ideally the actuator would wait a few more psi to begin to open the vanes, but I can easily adjust the cracking pressure by shortening the rod, the down side is that will raise the fully open pressure too. I plan to install it as is and see how it responds, it will be easy to adjust with the turbo in the car.

I did a bit more testing today and I think that I will need to find a new pressure actuator. The pressure actuator actually seems to start to open at about 12 psi. I guess the gauge I was using before was a bit off :roll: .

On the plus side the vacuum actuator works in conjunction with the pressure actuator great, when 15" of vacuum is applied the vanes nearly fully open when there is only cracking pressure to the pressure actuator.

I would like to find a pressure actuator that is 2.5 to 3" in diameter, has a cracking pressure of about 6 psi and a full travel at 10 psi or so. (When opposing the vacuum actuator the fully open pressure will increase due to the force of the spring in the vacuum actuator). I may contact this place. They look to make a nice piece, but they are mucho $$. <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.forgemotorsport.com/content.asp?inc=product&catalog=0001">http://www.forgemotorsport.com/content. ... talog=0001</a><!-- m -->

I pulled the compressor housing off today, tapped it for a nipple to hook the pressure line to the actuator and cleaned out the housing.[attachment=1]<!-- ia1 -->DSC01939a.jpg<!-- ia1 -->[/attachment]
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More parts, I got a pressure gauge today to monitor my exhaust back pressure. Not bad for .99 on fleabay. It was even made in Germany!
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Would the EGR tube be an acceptable location to measure pressure? I would rather not drill and tap the manifold again.

I plan to see about having a transition exhaust piece for between the turbo and down pipe and an oil feed line made up this week.

The EGR tube is fine to measure pressure.

How high does that go, 60psi? I can't really see it clearly in that picture. Exhaust pressure will usually be 2:1 or less so you'll probably never see that high unless you're running 30psi of boost.

There is nothing special needed to measure exhaust pressure. You only need to have the first 2' of tube from the manifold in metal to handle heat, after that normal nylon/plastic/rubber hose will hold up fine and any kind pressure gauge can be used.

Thanks. Yes, it reads up to 60 PSI.

I picked up my oil supply hose today. I had it made from an old stock hose and braided stainless/teflon hose.[attachment=2]<!-- ia2 -->DSC01949a.jpg<!-- ia2 -->[/attachment]
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I also got an exhaust clamp and turbo gasket from the Jeep dealer.

Clamp: Part # 52128847-AA - $17.05
Gasket: Part # 5142657-AB - $11.40

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How much was the oil supply line?

$89 for stainless hose, $69 for standard hose. I also had to provide an old stock oil line for the banjo fitting.

I have added a helper spring to reduce the cracking pressure to 8 psi. That is a bit lower than I think I will want, but it will be much easier to adjust the pressure actuator rod then change the helper spring with the turbo on the engine, so I am erring on the low side.
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A piece of 2.25" exhaust tubing fits perfectly over the turbine outlet. A 1/4" piece of triangular steel rod wrapped around and welded to the exhaust tube 1/8" back from the end will be perfect for the clamp to attach to.[attachment=0]<!-- ia0 -->DSC01956a.jpg<!-- ia0 -->[/attachment]

Studly.

It's going to be fun to get the nut on the 8 to 10 MM stud started with the spring and bracket there. :roll:

Slow down man! You are catching up too fast.

Oh well, I guess a little over a year with the only VNT was kind of nice.

Your VNT is bigger. :mrgreen:

bgkast Wrote:Your VNT is bigger. :mrgreen:

Only on the turbine side, for now....

On second thought I do not think an adaptor plate is needed to use this turbo. Holes for 8MM studs could be drilled in the stock manifold with a 8 to 10mm stud used to share one hole. No adaptor plate would require some port matching on the turbine inlet though.

I made the exhaust downpipe adaptor today. I used a piece of 1/4" round bar bent around a 2.25" ID exhaust tube and welded flush with the front of the pipe. I then ground it down a bit to match the flange on the turbine outlet.
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I take it you have never drilled into cast iron before?

Yes, I have drilled and tapped a MB exhaust manifold... see my Pyrometer thread.

That wall is pretty thin compared to what you are going to be drilling into. I will be interested to hear how it goes. Exhaust manifolds are a dime a dozen for me.

I've already paid for my adaptor so I will still use it, I was just suggesting this for others who may want to go a different route. I may experiment with this spare manifold I have just for kicks.

That wouldn't leave much room to seal between the manifold and turbo.

Now that I have the adaptor I have almost all the parts I need to install this thing. I am still waiting for a selection of vacuum orifices from Germany and need to get some hose for my oil drain, then it is ready to go on!

I want to get a baseline dyno run if I can before I install it, and I need to drive around with my mity-vac hooked to the vacuum control system to get it dialed in before I install the turbo too.

I mounted the vacuum control valve and I think I may need to find a new one. I can get 12" at idle that drops to 0" at WOT, but no more. The car also takes 5 or so seconds to shut off with it hooked up, so I think it has an internal leak.

I hooked up my exhaust pressure gauge tonight. I have a feeling that my cobbled together bulkhead fitting on my EGR block off plate will leak, so I may need to figure something else out later, but for now this is how it looks:[attachment=1]<!-- ia1 -->DSC01992a.jpg<!-- ia1 -->[/attachment]
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Mhhh nice blue dash. I have a 3 gauge pod mounted to the top of the window, I will take pictures of it today. Its out of the way and looks pretty decent.

You should see under the cover, it looks like a dry lake bed. I have my boost and EGT gauges located where the ash tray normaly is.

bgkast Wrote:The car also takes 5 or so seconds to shut off with it hooked up, so I think it has an internal leak.

I got a vacuum reservoir with a built-in check valve and dedicated it to the shutoff system.

Before I added the VCV the vacuum system was perfect. The car shut off immediately and the locks would work for days...

The cars using the VCV for automatic transmissions shut off fine, so I think there is an issue with my VCV.

I tested the turbine inlet pressure gauge today. No leaks, but the gauge seems to fluctuate with every exhaust pulse. I think I must need some sort of orifice in the line to dampen the signal. Any other ideas?

I was able to dampen the gauge quite a bit by plugging the copper line at the cool end with solder and drilling a 1/16" hole in the plug. It still bounces a bit, but not nearly as much as before.

bgkast Wrote:I was able to dampen the gauge quite a bit by plugging the copper line at the cool end with solder and drilling a 1/16" hole in the plug. It still bounces a bit, but not nearly as much as before.

Steel wool. Even you can learn something from a crack head .

I'll give that a try too.

Hopefully I can collect some baseline 0-60, EGT and boost response data tonight and drop this bizatch in this weekend!

:mrgreen:

How are you going to work the exhust pipe?

Like that until I can drive to an exhaust shop and have them make a new down-pipe, or longer if it does not leak much. :mrgreen:

Well it is all bolted up and torqued down now, not just mocked in to place. The nut on the 10 to 8 mm stud was a B@sterd. I still need to re-install my IC and refill the IC and engine cooling system before I test it. The thing I am least happy with is the oil drain tube. I used 5/8" hydraulic hose to a 5/8" to 3/4" barb fitting to 3/4" hose to a stock drain pipe cut in half. Due to the bends it has to go around it gets kinked so I used a hose clamp around the kink to keep the tube opened up. It's not perfect, but it should work for now. I tried bending some soft copper to the correct shape but it kinked too.

Come on, you didn't even fire it up? I was sick this last weekend and with the baby on the way I have some house work that needs tending to. Before I do anything I need to pull the new engine still.