(07-05-2009 02:58 AM)ForcedInduction Wrote:  ....
If anyone knows where to get a good HE341Ve turbine housing or a core turbo for a reasonable cost, let me know. I've been putting want ads on every turbo and diesel forum I know of.

Well damn, that sucks. I guess that happens with a hard to find turbo.

Man F.I. is not screwing around, that is going to a cool car!

This last weekend I changed the soggy and torn engine mounts, fixed the drivers door lock and discovered my odometer died at 530 miles. Looks like no mpg readings for a while...

New dynolicious run from tonight.
       
(Note: Stock settings M-Pump)
74hp is about right. I figure 88hp non-turbo fueling rate minus a few HP absorbed uselessly driving the turbo.

Compare to the stock MW-pump.
       

So "feels about as fast as a turbo" isn't a far off description.

Thats a great run for a non turbo.

Got a bit accomplished tonight. I turned up the pump some more, changed the ATF, changed the power steering fluid and return hose, adjusted the boost up to 12psi, changed the belts, upgraded to the 6" wp pulley and 9-blade plastic fan, tightened the steering box another 1/2 turn ccw and repaired the cut kickdown and reverse light wires.

Kickdown finally works but the reverse light still won't come on and it will start when in gear.

(07-14-2009 04:21 AM)ForcedInduction Wrote:  Kickdown finally works but the reverse light still won't come on and it will start when in gear.

I got a NSS and harness from an 84 300SD for $11. I just have to remove the electric speedo wires and change on my 4-prong plug in place of the SD's 6.

Keep going, I can't wait until I have the chance to work on details.

Got the NSS working again.
Turned up the modulator 1.5 turns. Its a little too hard now but it should be better after the next pump adjustment.

Some little bitch cried to the boss about a few oil drips on the floor from last night, now I can't bring the car into the shop.

The 2256V is off the 240D and waiting for manifold gaskets to arrive.
The 2256 was badly in need of cleaning. Soot was caked so bad its no wonder the 240D could boost to 15psi, the vanes weren't opening all the way.

I also swapped the Galant seat into the 300. The stock MB seat is just too unsupportive, high and bouncy.

Ihe 2256V is in. I got a heck of a deal on manifold gaskets, two kits for $20.55.
   

Power is a little low, its only making 11psi and I need closer to 14psi.
       
It cut a tenth off the 1/4mile and 0-40 acceleration is significantly quicker but top end is lagging because of the low boost.

(07-20-2009 03:07 AM)ForcedInduction Wrote:  ....
The 2256 was badly in need of cleaning. Soot was caked so bad its no wonder the 240D could boost to 15psi, the vanes weren't opening all the way....

How does one go about cleaning out the soot? Care to share any products or techniques?

I use a scraper on all the flat iron surfaces and the seal/shield washer under the turbine, a brass brush on the vane mechanicals and brake cleaner to remove the fine soot.

Don't use a lubricant on the mechanicals, it will attract soot and work as an abrasive. Do use plenty of high temp anti seize on the turbine housing to center housing joint though.

Occasional Italian Tuneups will keep it clean (The same way DPFs burn off soot). The soot was so bad since my 240 knocks I rarely pushed it harder than 900*f pre-turbo for long.

Ah, a TDI'er document. I have forgotten about this one.

Thanks for the tips.

New run now that I have my 15psi and full power. The pump still has some adjustment room left, I may turn it up some more before the races on the 2nd.


       
Finally, 100whp.

When I get the air-water intercooler installed I'll do an official dyno.

Did you photchop your face out? FI the faceless man.

that's a cool pic looks like the pic form the article I got!

I just got done doing a mountain run 5,100ft to 8,600ft elevation, 15psi (maximum safe speed for a GT's 56mm compressor wheel at this altitude), EGTs never went past 1,100*F and the coolant stayed between 60-85*c.

Now I'm off to switch to 15W50 synthetic, make a bracket to stop the starter heat shield's ringing, turn up the modulator pressure a tad more and reclock the driveshaft to stop some driveline vibration.

The driveshaft was 1 spline off, getting it back on right made a hell of a difference in highway noise and vibration!

Great run, I would like to see what she does at sea level.

I did a 117 mile highway run today going to a Colorado live steam open house (Denver to Byers). 4.973 gallons were used for 23.53mpg.

I don't think thats too bad considering its an automatic with a 3.46 rear end.

(08-11-2009 05:06 AM)ForcedInduction Wrote:  The driveshaft was 1 spline off, getting it back on right made a hell of a difference in highway noise and vibration!

FI will you expand upon this? I am not sure I unsderstand, and may be needing to check my drive line, as it has a vibration as well. ( after I took it all apart and put a 4 speed in)

When I swapped the diff I didn't get the driveshaft sections exactly lined up.

I have adjusted the cam timing. It was at 7* due to chain elongation so I installed the 4* offset woodruff key I had purchased last week. I was going to order 4* and 6* keys since I didn't already know the elongation, but I didn't want to waste money on a useless spare. The dealer wanted $26 each, even the parts guy had a "wow" when he saw the initial price so he knocked it down to $12.

The fugly coverless headlight bezels have been replaced with a proper set.

The VNT vane screw was adjusted in 1/4 turn to make up for the extra intake volume it has to fill (lag).

The air filter was showing 12"h2o restriction at full power so a new one is going in right now.

I replaced the clear vinyl tubes with proper silicone heater hose, installed a filler neck with pressurized cap and put new coolant in the intercooler.

Its prepped and ready to go for the Tuesday morning dyno session.

115hp @ 3500rpm
196lb/ft @ 2600rpm

The graph shown is a comparison of my 240D 3.0VNT and the 300D's last run. The 240's MW pump is stock except for the ALDA removed. It had a GT2256V and an A/A intercooler.


A little below expectations in the torque department, but HP is right given the "~145hp limit" of the 5.5mm elements with ~20% drivetrain loss.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g7HRDq3RdJU

Not shabby. Can't wait for my 6mm elements......

Tonight I replaced the lower oil pan gasket and turbo drain tube seal. The dried up seal was a royal PITA to dig out but the new one plopped right in place.

The inside of the engine and lower oil pan didn't have a speck of sludge and the pickup screen was clear, the synthetic is definitely doing its job.

The GT2256V is back on and it runs as good as ever. Better even, since I've made some cooling system and vacuum control improvements. I also finally got around to making the second intercooler bracket to stop its horizontal vibration with the engine.

   

Next issue to tackle is the driver window glass came out of the arm.

0-60mph run. No power-braking. 12.5sec?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MjdtHnRLUHQ

(05-06-2010 08:21 AM)ForcedInduction Wrote:  0-60mph run. No power-braking. 12.5sec?

That's a good run!

How are the EGTs with the engine coolant plumbed A/W intercooler?

(05-06-2010 01:25 PM)Tymbrymi Wrote:  How are the EGTs with the engine coolant plumbed A/W intercooler?

It will hit 1250*f at around 85mph from a standstill. The intercooler has no problem keeping up with the air since it only shares fluid volume with the engine circuit, not flow. The connection with the engine has a 1/8" orifice so the levels and pressures can equalize but limit flow between the two to a minimum. Bulk engine filling is done through the upper radiator hose.

Reaching 1250 is from the long injection duration of the small plungers, a 7mm upgrade should bring the burn time down cooler.

1250* is 200* more than I ever saw with my IC. I am not running an IC now with the MW and still only see 1050*. I am using a VDO gauge, maybe it is not as sensitve as the ISSPRO you are using or there is something else differnet?

altitude? I'm not sure where forced is in colorado but I would assume altitude could come cause the higher EGT even on a turbo engine. I could be wrong though

1983 300D Silver Exterior/Black inside - Euro headlights, Ronal R9 15X7 wheels with 205/60r15 Michelin Pilot Exalto A/S tires
2007 Chevy 2500HD CCSB Duramax with about 400-500 rwhp depending on the tune I use

He also has his pump tuned up a bit

(05-07-2010 10:10 PM)willbhere4u Wrote:  He also has his pump tuned up a bit

I was running the same pump "M" with basically the same tuning.

I think capflya may have something there with altitude. He is near Denver and I rarely get above 1200 ft. usually around 350.

We are around 5k up here in the Denver area

Right. That means a higher pressure ratio for the same boost and more pressure is needed to produce the same airflow as an engine at sea level. The higher intake heat is easily handled by the intercooler, but the exhaust backpressure of it all is what really hurts. At 10psi its close to 1:1, but at 15psi (especially in the upper RPMs) it can reach 33psi. Thats why I bumped down from 18psi, EMP was peaking at nearly 40psi by redline!

I'd really like to find a GT2556V, but a GT2559V wouldn't be objectionable.

Some advancements.

New and improved larger air filter design.


CCV system is vented to the road to prevent intercooler fouling.
   
   
   

A coolant filter was added to try and remove the remaining sediment that triple flushing didn't get out. Its a g@s filter (Fram G3) but so far its working well at catching the water particulates without restricting flow.
   

I also added a bottle of Redline Water Wetter to both circuits. So far it seems to be working well, its staying rock steady on 82*c where before it would creep to 85*c at low speeds.

Speedo cable snapped at 90mph, time for a new one!

What kind of stuff have you found in the coolant filter? Always been kinda curious what kind of "stuff" was floating around in our coolant...

Mostly rust particles left over from the previous owner's old coolant. That filter plugged up and collapsed after a few hours so I removed it. I've got a leaking freeze plug so when I change it I'll do an acid flush to get rid of it all for good.

(06-05-2010 05:59 AM)ForcedInduction Wrote:  That filter plugged up and collapsed after a few hours so I removed it.

Woah!! How nasty did it look when you took it out?

It was mostly that rust particulate, so pretty much a darker orange color. Though the waterwetter gave it a pink tinge.

Got a new speedo cable for $5 from the picknpull. The top half of the clamp on the tranny is broken off, but with the bolt in place it clamps the cable in place just the same. No more wobbly speedo either!

Second 0-60 run, now with the kickdown solenoid working.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XiTTEj-5Epk

Very interesting project - I like

Do you have some measurements of the fram filter? Is it a 3" flange?

I may have a deal on a GT2359V.

10sec looks like!

Just waiting for it to arrive!
       

I've also got a new coolant bottle and hose. I'll be reseparating the IC and engine cooling systems. Combining the two works, but not as great as I had hoped. Even though its only a 1/8" orifice to the engine side it still leaches flow from the IC pump and the leaking freeze plug causes air to build up in the IC system.