Yeah, but the cooling system has me stumped at the moment..

Could still have some air in the system? It took a week to get it all out of mine - I have been running cool since I put on the old fan. BTW, I have an electric fan for sale with a varaible speed controller

I heard the variable speed controller... Who's it made by? I like this one: http://www.dccontrol.com/introf0.htm

Got it on my sprint with two spal 12"ers She could sit on top of a volcano and stay cool...

   

   

   

The fan controller is made by Flex-a-lite, it is their variable speed controller. Has capability to be operated manually, turns on with A/C, has delay for operation while starting, and runs after shutdown. It runs at 60% and as temp increases it goes to 100%. Issue may have been with fan placement, but I was limited to how far I could mount it away from the radiator.

Anyhow, I think manual is the way to go.

Hey captain,
what did you pay for those twin Spal 12" fans?
Anybody know a good source for Spals?

Thanks in advance,
John

(08-31-2010 07:14 AM)Rudolf_Diesel Wrote:  The fan controller is made by Flex-a-lite, it is their variable speed controller. Has capability to be operated manually, turns on with A/C, has delay for operation while starting, and runs after shutdown. It runs at 60% and as temp increases it goes to 100%. Issue may have been with fan placement, but I was limited to how far I could mount it away from the radiator.

Anyhow, I think manual is the way to go.

Ahhh yes, that's the one I was going to go with but they were sleeping over there at Flex-A-Lite and I needed one before they finished that. Plus back then theirs would only control one fan will mine will control up to 35amps. And now his controller does 50amps! The DCC controller came with an LED that goes from green (fans off) to red (fans 100%) that is an awesome indicator to put right next to the water temp gauge. I've got a switch that is auto, 50% manual on, and 100% manual on. Mine also runs when the key is off... Its cool to hear em spool when the motor is off, and sometime when the car heat soaks they turn back on for a couple seconds.

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(08-31-2010 09:50 AM)Silberpfeil Wrote:  Hey captain,
what did you pay for those twin Spal 12" fans?
Anybody know a good source for Spals?

Thanks in advance,
John

I paid $280 for both of those fans.... Yeah they are expensive but in this case you definitely get what you pay for, after having the original eBay fans fail (which weren't even a normal size even though they were supposed to be 12") I spent the money and will next time too. Spal's are worth every penny!

I got mine from a local off road shop called KarTek. http://www.kartek.com/Product/Cooling/SPAL.html

I'm pretty sure this is the one I went with in that application: http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.aspx?p...m=30102029

(09-01-2010 10:29 PM)Rudolf_Diesel Wrote:  

Quote:Whoa Whoa! can you go over that one more time? kind lost you.... Are you talking about the ALDA adjustment under the black cap or the clocking of the whole shabang on top of the IP? Mine smokes at idle and even more when sitting in gear, I hate it!

Did that start after we did the work on the IP?

If so then you can adjust the timing by advancing the pump - loosen the 3 bolts and move the pump away from the motor use a 2x4 to pry it over.

Thanks for the reply Rudolf

See here is the thing that is weird to me, maybe not you guys... That's why I'm here! The smoke is Grey, it always is... Idle - Park and in Gear, acceleration, WOT. The only time the smoke is anything other than Grey is when there is a puff of white smoke (miss fire?) every couple of seconds when she is cold until there is some heat in the motor. And when its sitting in park and I mash the peddle and then there is a black puff (rich condition right?) just before I let off near red line. This was before we did the pump work and is the same after. If it is sitting in park (engine at operating temp (90C)) there is a very light Grey fog around the car but if it is in gear it is much worse. You can actually see the smoke coming out from under the car when I am inside sitting at a stop light. It is not using water like a head gasket problem.

Another thing I noticed while the old injector return lines were leaking fuel all over the head was that it seems the pre chambers (the lock ring that the injector screws into?) are not completely sealing. there is that half moon shape closest to the edge of the head, when covered in fuel had bubbles coming out of it while the engine was running. The Pre chamber rings are kinda beat like some one was using a punch or something to loosen or tighten them...

Thoughts?

Here is a pic. The bubbles were coming from where number 50 is pointing.


Could this be some of the Grey smoke cause?

Could this be some of the Grey smoke cause?



Could be the case on the witness mark, but we verified that it was spot on when it was removed, member?

If the injectors were messed with then maybe they reused the crush washers?

Even though we verified, by whats its saying above, it still could be wrong when the marks are aligned in picture A as we did? I could check the production code somewhere on the IP right? What causes Grey smoke? Anyone got a pre-chamber ring tool chingas mechanism that I could borrow, rent, buy?

Ok, so I think I figured out the random overheating situation? Car would peg the temp gauge within a mile from my house with no heat from the heater and the coolant reservoir full and barley steaming with the cap off... To me it seemed as though the water pump was not pumping... Think I figured out why...

That gay little breather line ...

   

   

Clogged with shit!

   

   

   

   

   

Seems to be running normally now, but only time will tell if it will happens again..

Also got one of these babies. http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc1750t.htm

The muther of batteries. And she starts awesome once again.

"Passenger Fender Exhaust Almost..."

Doo it already!

---

Is the bottom of your car covered in an inch of soot yet?

Well I got my IP timing adjusted a couple weeks ago. It was only at 18 degrees so I advanced it to 26. Were back to black smoke! And she makes a little more power as well. Starting still sucks. The compression must be nothing in that motor. Got the skid plate too, Going to beef it up with some addition plating on the engine side So I wont have to worry about anything.

       

Comparative picture of movement...

       

I broke my tibia and fibula bones late last week (dirt bike crash) so i don't see much work happening for a couple weeks

That sucks about the leg, just as the riding season starts too. Our first trip won't be until Thanksgiving weekend.

It looks like it is off one tooth on the splines - you get what you pay for

How much was the skid plate? I need one - those damn parking bumpers do not like my oil pan.

Well I got a Stainless Steal rod shoved down my tibia yesterday so the cast comes off in two weeks and I get to put weight on it in 6 weeks, which is earlier than I expected.

I paid $90 for the skid. Say Rudolf, Its almost 1/8" thick but I'd like to strengthen it up more. I think the weakest point is the hoop bar in the front. Maybe we can work together, I lend you my skid to beef up and you can make one for yourself??? I'd also like to get one to go under the radiator too.

Damn dude! Thats noo good at all. Fuck, i hope it heals up nice and quick, i hate broken bones.

Rudolf, if your down and you end up fabbing up a skid, id like to purchase one from you definetly, maybe 2.

(10-13-2010 09:21 PM)Captain America Wrote:  Well I got a Stainless Steal rod shoved down my tibia yesterday so the cast comes off in two weeks and I get to put weight on it in 6 weeks, which is earlier than I expected.

I paid $90 for the skid. Say Rudolf, Its almost 1/8" thick but I'd like to strengthen it up more. I think the weakest point is the hoop bar in the front. Maybe we can work together, I lend you my skid to beef up and you can make one for yourself??? I'd also like to get one to go under the radiator too.

That might be a good idea, for you me and Garage.

Years ago my Mom was in a car accident and the air bag shattered her right arm. They first tried a plate and 13 screws, no luck. They ended up putting in a rod and some coral for the bone to grow on, she was one of the first to recieve this type of treatment. She has probably 90% normal usage of that arm.

Hope it turns out as well. Did you do that at Glamis? When you get older, like me, you will contemplate hard about how much ut is going to hurt in the morning

Sorry to hear about the leg, Cap't! Hope you heal up quick!

Wow! Coral you say? Now that is interesting, never heard of that one before.

(10-14-2010 10:06 AM)garage Wrote:  Wow! Coral you say? Now that is interesting, never heard of that one before.

That was about 12+ years ago.

Well i would have only been about 7or8 years old at that time

Seems to be a good fix so far. The leg is feeling great. Just a little sore.

I think we could all benefit from the skid plate because I see it as being just a little on the light side for my uses and if you made a template, Rudolf you could easily make some on the side for guys like Garage and Stan. We should get together one day soon and go over some ideas...

I just read up on that heat issue and fix, that is GREAT info.

(10-18-2010 04:55 PM)winmutt Wrote:  I just read up on that heat issue and fix, that is GREAT info.

??? You talking about the little air transfer tube between the water pump and head? Or somewhere else?

(10-18-2010 08:29 PM)Captain America Wrote:  

(10-18-2010 04:55 PM)winmutt Wrote:  I just read up on that heat issue and fix, that is GREAT info.

??? You talking about the little air transfer tube between the water pump and head? Or somewhere else?

Yes overheat. It is something that has never been discussed in any overheating thread I have seen before.

So starting is still a bitch. Yesturday I found out partly why and it makes me sad. Every once in a while when cranking the motor would abruptly stop. I was thinking it was the starter. I was wrong. Last night it stopped on me so I started pulling glow plugs in the parking lot of my work. #2 was wet. FML. So I hit the starter and it shot out water from #2. Guess the head gasket is on its way out, that would explain why it's loosing so much coolant recently and that's probly part of the long cranking when cold. I guess there cold be an issue with the IP causing the long crank but it looks like the newest part on the engine so I don't know. Probly better off to just pull the motor and go through it.... fuck

whats going on with that blue parts car? Does the engine run? If so, maybe a swaps in order

Idk. He gave it to me because the head gasket catastrophically failed. I think if your gonna mess with the head gasket (because it failed) then you might as well pull the motor and just go through it. Just for the fact that you wont have to worry about anything else in the future.

Well guys, looks like I'll be joining you again...

Picking up a cherry '80 300D with a 617 that only has four rods left and also a '81 300SD with a tits 617a and only 150k on the clock.

Guess I'll make one good car out of the four I have and get rid of the rest.

4 mercs?! Damn man.

I can beat that I've got 4 diesels and two 1950's Gasser's

Haha yeah! Got to borrow my grandpas shop (3,500 sq ft) so I can start pulling drivetrain and swappin parts. Stan is gonna come over with a 30 and were gonna put it work this next weekend

Unless I fall in love for the SD .. I dunnno, we'll see what happens

Sd's ftw!

If you want some help I have Sundays off.

Yeah but I love the classic 123 front end

Yeah Diesel that would be cool. I'd love to check out yours too!

(02-11-2011 02:47 PM)Captain America Wrote:  Yeah but I love the classic 123 front end

Yeah Diesel that would be cool. I'd love to check out yours too!

I love the styling of the W123. If it werent a W123 I'd recommend jumping right ahead to the W124. Night and day ride difference.

(02-11-2011 02:48 PM)winmutt Wrote:  

(02-11-2011 02:47 PM)Captain America Wrote:  Yeah but I love the classic 123 front end

Yeah Diesel that would be cool. I'd love to check out yours too!

I love the styling of the W123. If it werent a W123 I'd recommend jumping right ahead to the W124. Night and day ride difference.

Hmmmm... dunno about that...

   

Haha!

Woohoo! Gramps said I could use the shop, but no hookers

You planning on any work this weekend?

That's what I'm shooting for. Hopefully picking them up on Saturday

Well I got the cars...

1981 300SD
1980 300D-NA

After a little fuel filter change, air filter, boost controller .... This car hauls ass! Compared to my 1982 at least. she pulls nice, chirps second gear, starts with half a rev in 33 degree temps. I am very happy to say the least. By the gauge she runs dead cold unless I'm breaking the law on the freeway... gotta see whats up with that.

Anyone know when the over-boost protection kicks in at? PSI? I think I'm hitting it.

Lastly for now, Whats up with the motor mounts in the 300 NA car? They are different from the Turbo cars... Is it easy or hard to put a turbo motor in a NA chassis?

1.1bar. On my 603 it was a cycling power loss, much like fuel starvation (which is what it is basically).

Thanks Winmutt, I was definitely on it... Haha just as you described, It would come up on boost and hit a wall! The system does quite a fantastic job of controlling it! I was surprised... Sooooo I bypassed it. Got her set right about 13-14 PSI now and she loves it. I cant imagine what it will feel like in a lightweight D instead of the warship SD.

Something else is that it revvs quick up to 3k and then starts to fall off from there. Haven't tried to revv it past 4k yet...

It also shudders a little when you first start it cold if the RPM is below 1000, got to set my foot on the diesel peddle for the first 30 seconds or so. Then while its warming up the idle goes up and down slightly very slowly. Going to lube all the throttle linkage tonight.

The cruise control works perfectly on this car!

1.1bar is 16psi.

Yup. It was holding right there @ 16

Nice. When my car is cold it stumbles a little on start up too.

Have you backed the Alda out yet?

No, The pump looks virgin ( kinda oxidized and crusty), The plastic cap is still on the Alda

The car doesn't smoke at all from what I can tell ... But it will loose the exhaust this weekend ... It will probly come through the hood as I DGAF about the body haha

Diesel, you know a good spot to set the ALDA or somethin?

I still need to do the usual:

Adjust the valves
Check cam timing
Check IP timing ... then advance
Remove rack limiter

I removed mine. Before I did I did this. Back the top screw out till it comes out then thread back in a few threads then lock it there. (basically disables it)

Picture of yours disabled? Did you physically take it off? Can you re-enable after disable?

That's why you get so much black death right off idle huh?

If I just stomp it off the line it smokes good but its gone once I'm in boost. I can roll into it and not smoke at all. I'm running ~20psi on my setup it had the most butt dyno feel.

As for pics I'll take one when I get back to the shop. Mine is unscrewed off the pump. But on my friends wagon and his dads we just backed the stud out as far as it could go without coming out.
I think brabus has a pic of his off the pump.

If you do this ^ making it work again is as easy as turning the stud back in.

(02-24-2011 05:22 PM)dieselboy Wrote:  If you do this ^ making it work again is as easy as turning the stud back in.

That would make sense but I thought I had read that if you unscrewed it too far something breaks and that it... Done...zoe

Well here's the only pic of the SD I have, and its muddy... But that's ok, it's not much to look at anyway...

   

Weight Reduction, Stage 1 ... This thing has to weigh at least 50lbs, no exaggeration!

   

The trans shifts pretty nice too

   
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