Hows the road noise??

What road noise??? lol there is none!

The only issue I have is that with the additional width and diameter, the shoulder tries to rip off the front fender when the tire tucks and is turned. I just need to roll the edge and I think they will be fine.

Is there a way to recalibrate my speedometer???

(08-11-2010 10:50 PM)Captain America Wrote:  What road noise??? lol there is none!

The only issue I have is that with the additional width and diameter, the shoulder tries to rip off the front fender when the tire tucks and is turned. I just need to roll the edge and I think they will be fine.

Is there a way to recalibrate my speedometer???

Well thats good no extra noise! Im gonna really have to get myself some more agressive tread soon. haha
Grab a baseball bat and roll the fenders dude! Ive been wanting to do mine for weeks...but i need to grab a baseball bat from someone first.

not sure about the speedo

Ive got a bat to do it with ... just takes two people haha. The tires are gonna rub no matter what.. at least if the tread doesn't catch the fender lip.. I think I need to flare the front fenders! haha that would be crazy huh?

That's what I did on my 240d I rolled the front fenders and left the rears alone!

Well damn dude, if i didnt need to install a new slave cylinder for the clutch id ask you use your bat to help roll mine!!
shit i needa get it fixed..

I wanna do fronts and backs, and flare it out as much as possible.

This guy flared his just a bit

http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/ml32...l#pid13486

Yeah looks good, i really wanna flare mine out a bit more.

(08-12-2010 06:26 PM)garage Wrote:  Yeah looks good, i really wanna flare mine out a bit more.

Its not easy on the W123s. Thick german steel. There is a guy on bw or pp that will rent out the proper tool for doing it. I did mine with a baseball bat and heat gun, this will only allow you to do a little. Somewhere I have the AMG install FSM covering this for the W124.

(08-18-2010 11:43 AM)winmutt Wrote:  

(08-12-2010 06:26 PM)garage Wrote:  Yeah looks good, i really wanna flare mine out a bit more.

Its not easy on the W123s. Thick german steel. There is a guy on bw or pp that will rent out the proper tool for doing it. I did mine with a baseball bat and heat gun, this will only allow you to do a little. Somewhere I have the AMG install FSM covering this for the W124.

Whats PP (peach parts?) and FSM?

(08-18-2010 12:36 PM)Captain America Wrote:  Whats PP (peach parts?) and FSM?

FSM = Factory Shop Manual

PP = What your mommy asked if you needed to do before you went to bed

(08-18-2010 12:44 PM)Rudolf_Diesel Wrote:  

(08-18-2010 12:36 PM)Captain America Wrote:  Whats PP (peach parts?) and FSM?

FSM = Factory Shop Manual

PP = What your mommy asked if you needed to do before you went to bed

All life's Important questions have been answered!

(08-18-2010 12:36 PM)Captain America Wrote:  

(08-18-2010 11:43 AM)winmutt Wrote:  

(08-12-2010 06:26 PM)garage Wrote:  Yeah looks good, i really wanna flare mine out a bit more.

Its not easy on the W123s. Thick german steel. There is a guy on bw or pp that will rent out the proper tool for doing it. I did mine with a baseball bat and heat gun, this will only allow you to do a little. Somewhere I have the AMG install FSM covering this for the W124.

Whats PP (peach parts?) and FSM?

Peach parts. Shop manual.

Winmutt, do you happen to remember the user name of this guy?

Capt, if your down, ill split the cost of renting the tool with you, and we could try that..?

It was in the tool rental section I think. Maybe ask on those boards if someone has it for rent? You should be able to find it at any decent local body shop.

sure, im willing to try it.

http://tom.actionfit.com/fenderolling.html
Is this it Winmutt?

That is the proper tool. Make many passes with small effects.

Yeah, Those things are nice

Post locally on CL or local tuner boards. There is a guy here that does it $50 per wheel in your driveway....

Wow! I'd do that for sure!

Those bundt wheels look hot when black! Never thought of that before, if I ever get them I will do the same.

(08-22-2010 02:44 PM)meareweird Wrote:  Those bundt wheels look hot when black! Never thought of that before, if I ever get them I will do the same.

Yeah they turned out waaaaaay better than I had hoped. Wait till I get pics up of the clean wheels...

Did some crap over the weekend...

The Tank and the Parts Car (Blue Thunder) meet. The parts car makes the tank look like a car that could win a best in show award.

   

   

   

Took the radiator from the parts car and swapped it into the tank because there was a leak where the plastic was attached to the alum. core.

   

   

   

   

Did NOT &*@$^@% get the bad ground figured out.

Blew one of the heater hoses doing 80mph on the freeway which pegged the temp gauge within seconds.

Switched the feed and return fuel line which resulted in more power and less smoke.

Finally changed the oil and filter.

Met up with Garage and Stan Because we all missed the cruise on Saturday. (non of us would have mad it anyway). We are like the three freaking stooges.... Garage and I met up with Stan to drop off a couple wheels from the parts car because he keep popping tires. So we get there and he puts the tire on. Garage's battery is dead so he's not starting, And my ground is no good so I'm not starting either. Stan starts Garage and then they both team up to start me lol. Then while Garage and I are on the way home my hose blows so we pull off the freeway to figure out whats up and while waiting for AAA, Garage shuts his car off. The battery is now beyond dead so we have to bump start. Guess he gets the alt from the parts car lol... What a mess we all were!

Garage on left, Stan on right.

   

   

   

   

Got This Sweet little 4 channel x 100 watt amp I'll be using for the front and rear speakers; Plus a digital voltage meter and two temp meters. Each meter has two sensors so I plan to use them to read water and air temps (before and after cooler) when the A/W Intercooler is done.

   

   

   

   

hahaha, You guys are funny.

The only thing that would have improved that would be if garage and stan swapped batteries while the cars were running for a nice charge up on stans wagon.
You all remind me of myself getting various unroadworthy craigslist purchases back to my place.

I like those two guys in the background, you can almost read their minds. "WTF are these guys doing?"

You should switch to some wider hose clamps on the radiator, lots of people have had problems with the narrow MB clamps causing neck failures on the radiators. (although mine failed with a wide clamp 300 miles after I put it on, but the radiator was tired anyway. might just be age related)

Dude you should have seen us! And I didn't get a picture when Garage had jumpers from his car to the battery in my trunk and Stan had jumpers from his car to the starter in mine, It was comedy looking. Haha those people were like" oh, you guys brought the whole crew out to change the tire huh?"

The problem is that we all thought we were roadworthy!

What do you mean by neck failure? Like the plastic part of the neck cracks or something? I could see that I guess, the wider clamps would distribute the load more evenly.

this is what I mean by neck failure. The old plastic gets really crumbly and saturated looking after 30 years. Mine looked more like graham cracker than plastic-

   

(08-24-2010 11:20 AM)dropnosky Wrote:  this is what I mean by neck failure. The old plastic gets really crumbly and saturated looking after 30 years. Mine looked more like graham cracker than plastic-

Holy crud! That's no good. The newly installed radiator looks to be somewhat new, so I'm hoping that doesn't happen anytime soon.

   

I love Parts Geek! Ordered yesterday and my stuff arrived today.

While I'm replacing all the hoses I want to replace all the freeze plugs. Anyone know how many there are? I only see four. And the two that are leaking are behind the oil filter housing and the injection pump I got a new oil filter housing gasket to do that one, but i guess the question I have is how difficult is it to pull the injection pump and re-install it? Are there any adjustments that I should make while its out? Any tricks you guys can share? Rudolf??? I know you have done yours a couple times...

I don't know about the IP

But be careful not to strip the Allen bolt's to the oil filter housing don't ask me how I know!

use a pick tool or some thing to get all of the junk out of the bolt head's first!!!!

you will most probably have to sacrifice an Allen wrench or 2 there are 5 Allen bolt's if I'm not mistaken

You can remove the rack and make a couple of adjustments referenced in the pump tuning section. It is not that hard to pull the pump, just set thye engine on #1 @ 24* it will be easier to pull when you have the filter housing off. The adjustments are not hard, just takes a little patience - document, document, document is also recommended so you have a reference point to return to.

Cool thanks guys!

Rudolf, I haven't finished reading the tuning guide yet but I started a while back.

Ohhhh how little thing turn into big projects! One split hose has turned into pulling the IP and tuning! Guess I gotta get that Intercooler and EGT install going....

Ready for some welding rudolf?

Also check you oil cooler lines at this time!!! it's a lot easier to replace them while your in there!!!

Yeah I want to make some up like what Rudolf did....

The IP un/install and tuning sounds Scary eeek!

Im nervous to pull my IP to capt, seems like alot can go wrong, or itd be a big pain in the rear to get it reinstalled.

If you tune that pump theres no way imma be able to catch you!! I needa get working on making sure that dosnt happen

(08-25-2010 03:43 PM)garage Wrote:  Im nervous to pull my IP to capt, seems like alot can go wrong, or itd be a big pain in the rear to get it reinstalled.

If you tune that pump theres no way imma be able to catch you!! I needa get working on making sure that dosnt happen

If I get my car running this weekend, maybe we can meet up and I can show you how to pull the pumps. The M-pump is much easier - before the supercharger I could pull the pump, adjust it and put it back in ~20 mins. Now it would take a little longer.

The hardest thing about the pump is the bolt/bracket on the rear of the pump - I just left it off after the first time.

The pump is pretty easy, its the oil cooler lines I'd be worried about. One stripping can make a fun project sour with the turn of a wrench.
Don't forget the antiseize!

(08-25-2010 04:29 PM)Rudolf_Diesel Wrote:  

(08-25-2010 03:43 PM)garage Wrote:  Im nervous to pull my IP to capt, seems like alot can go wrong, or itd be a big pain in the rear to get it reinstalled.

If you tune that pump theres no way imma be able to catch you!! I needa get working on making sure that dosnt happen

If I get my car running this weekend, maybe we can meet up and I can show you how to pull the pumps. The M-pump is much easier - before the supercharger I could pull the pump, adjust it and put it back in ~20 mins. Now it would take a little longer.

The hardest thing about the pump is the bolt/bracket on the rear of the pump - I just left it off after the first time.

Rudolf..i would be stoked on that!
I would love to come check out your OMG617, and learn somthing while im at it.

(08-25-2010 03:43 PM)garage Wrote:  Im nervous to pull my IP to capt, seems like alot can go wrong, or itd be a big pain in the rear to get it reinstalled.

If you tune that pump theres no way imma be able to catch you!! I needa get working on making sure that dosnt happen

Yeah Eff you and your feather weight four banger!

---

(08-25-2010 04:29 PM)Rudolf_Diesel Wrote:  

(08-25-2010 03:43 PM)garage Wrote:  Im nervous to pull my IP to capt, seems like alot can go wrong, or itd be a big pain in the rear to get it reinstalled.

If you tune that pump theres no way imma be able to catch you!! I needa get working on making sure that dosnt happen

If I get my car running this weekend, maybe we can meet up and I can show you how to pull the pumps. The M-pump is much easier - before the supercharger I could pull the pump, adjust it and put it back in ~20 mins. Now it would take a little longer.

The hardest thing about the pump is the bolt/bracket on the rear of the pump - I just left it off after the first time.

As Garage said... That would be awesome. I would love to talk with someone face to face while we are standing there looking at it... That's invaluable knowledge on something like this, who to someone like me who has not done it, seems like one wrong move could leave you with poor running motor or rods hanging out of the block.

---

(08-25-2010 06:50 PM)ForcedInduction Wrote:  The pump is pretty easy, its the oil cooler lines I'd be worried about. One stripping can make a fun project sour with the turn of a wrench.
Don't forget the antiseize!

Thanks Forced, I now remember seeing that in one of your posts... That happened when you loosened the fitting? Someone must have installed it buggered....

(08-26-2010 12:08 AM)Captain America Wrote:  That happened when you loosened the fitting? Someone must have installed it buggered.

Yes. The hoses appeared to be original though.

The problem with the oil cooler lines is that (iirc) they are only 15ftlb to tighten. Everyone, my self included, over torques them.

(08-26-2010 09:08 AM)winmutt Wrote:  The problem with the oil cooler lines is that (iirc) they are only 15ftlb to tighten. Everyone, my self included, over torques them.

Gotcha, Things like that are easily over torqued....

And don't forget that lube (antiseize) increases the torque value with less effort.

(08-26-2010 05:20 PM)ForcedInduction Wrote:  And don't forget that lube (antiseize) increases the torque value with less effort.

Yup. my hope with that is the lub/antiseize with keep the threads from galling like that even with a tad more torque.

(08-24-2010 11:20 AM)dropnosky Wrote:  this is what I mean by neck failure. The old plastic gets really crumbly and saturated looking after 30 years. Mine looked more like graham cracker than plastic-

Dude, you nailed it!!! Looks like this radiator has already been victimized.

   

And this is a pic of the tail end of the flush...
YUCK!
   

You guys are bad mojo for charging systems I ended up having to get a new alternator.

I had to drive about 50 miles home with just battery for lights, about 10 miles from home it was like driving with candles for head lights...So it occurred to me that electric fans do not work without power DUH! - good thing it was a cool night.

So I replaced the electric with a regular old fan.

(08-29-2010 09:40 PM)Rudolf_Diesel Wrote:  You guys are bad mojo for charging systems I ended up having to get a new alternator.

(08-29-2010 09:40 PM)Rudolf_Diesel Wrote:  I had to drive about 50 miles home with just battery for lights, about 10 miles from home it was like driving with candles for head lights...So it occurred to me that electric fans do not work without power DUH! - good thing it was a cool night.

Yeah you shouldn't have really needed it.

(08-29-2010 09:40 PM)Rudolf_Diesel Wrote:  So I replaced the electric with a regular old fan.
DUH! - good thing it was a cool night.

Awe

Rudolf came to my house to help me with my IP, He is an awesome guy ... way cool. It got pulled off, removed the rack limiter, adjusted the torque capsule a half turn and bolted her back up. She runs real well. Not a great deal, but more noticeable power everywhere. Slightly slow to return to idle, easiest to describe as there is no engine braking at all. Now that the hard part has been taken care of I will make some more adjustments as I finish reading the adjustment thread...

What also helped was tweaking the throttle linkage so it was against the stop on the pump when my foot was to the floor.

Everything adds up I guess.

I need to order new injector return lines as mine are shot. Those should come tomorrow with some other goodies.

(08-30-2010 01:14 AM)Captain America Wrote:  Slightly slow to return to idle, easiest to describe as there is no engine braking at all. Now that the hard part has been taken care of I will make some more adjustments as I finish reading the adjustment thread...

How about the idle adjust screw, that would be the first thing i would try to mess with if trying to get her back to idle sooner..

And yes every liiiiil bit helps

(08-30-2010 10:02 PM)garage Wrote:  

(08-30-2010 01:14 AM)Captain America Wrote:  Awe

Slightly slow to return to idle, easiest to describe as there is no engine braking at all. Now that the hard part has been taken care of I will make some more adjustments as I finish reading the adjustment thread...

How about the idle adjust screw, that would be the first thing i would try to mess with if trying to get her back to idle sooner..

And yes every liiiiil bit helps

Idk, But these injector return lines are pissin me off! they wont stop leaking. On the way home today she tried to overheat on me... I think the thermostat stuck closed. I took it out and filled back up with water and she was still running warm on the way home on the freeway (100C shown on the gauge) which I verified to be accurate.

(08-30-2010 10:51 PM)Captain America Wrote:  

(08-30-2010 10:02 PM)garage Wrote:  

(08-30-2010 01:14 AM)Captain America Wrote:  Awe

Slightly slow to return to idle, easiest to describe as there is no engine braking at all. Now that the hard part has been taken care of I will make some more adjustments as I finish reading the adjustment thread...

How about the idle adjust screw, that would be the first thing i would try to mess with if trying to get her back to idle sooner..

And yes every liiiiil bit helps

Idk, But these injector return lines are pissin me off! they wont stop leaking. On the way home today she tried to overheat on me... I think the thermostat stuck closed. I took it out and filled back up with water and she was still running warm on the way home on the freeway (100C shown on the gauge) which I verified to be accurate.

Well luckily you have parts comin right!